Whisky Intelligence and Ludo from Grant’s – Grant’s Whisky Tasting

A discussion of the Grant’s 12, 18 & 25YO Blended Scotch Whiskies (Whisky Intelligence was woken at 6:15AM for this interview, so apologies if WI appears a little sleep deprived!)

Ludo: Have you tried the family reserve? I know in Canada we sell the Ale & Sherry cask as well
WI: I have but I haven’t tried them for a while

Grants History:

Started in 1886, which is when William Grant was born in Dufftown.  He had different jobs including working as a shepherd, shoe maker and eventually he started working in whisky for Mortlach for 20 years before becoming Distillery Manager. He built his first distillery in 1886 started distilling 1887. In those days, he was distilling single malt whisky to sell to blenders who would bottle it, package it, and sell it overseas.  

1804 1905 Son John travelled to US and Canada.

Charles Gordon 1909 1910 went as far as Australia, very important for our blend because after those years the world was a different place, 2 world wars, the great depression. If Charles hadn’t opened up the markets the way he did, William Grant’S wouldn’t have survived.

4th generation big impact also up until 1960’s we were only distilling single malt distilleries, had glenfiddich and balvenie we were buying our single grain from single grain distilleries.

1963 charles gordron (different one) decided to build his own single grain distillery (Girvan) started in march 1963, started distilling on Christmas day that year.  Single grain we distill in girvan, what we use today, it’s a symbol of our independence, without Girvan we couldn’t have grown our whisky to what it is now.  William Grant’s is now owned by 5th generated family. We also own Kinninvie & Alisa bay 2007 distilleries.

William Grant is the oldest single grain distillery around the world.

The Family Reserve is what we sell the most.

Grant’s 12YO

Have you got nosing glasses and water?

WI has water, & use it about 40% of the time. Check on nosing glasses.

Ludo normally noses with water, as does our master blender but understands that people have differing opinions.

Grants 12 smaller vatting than a younger blend. As blends get older, more evaporates.

Family Reserve select 1000 casks 20-30 different single alts and single grains.

12 YO 15-20 single malts and 2 or 3 single grain interesting age in  blending terms. At 12 years we reach a turning point of amounts of single malts and single grains we use at an age younger than 12 minority single grain whisky single grain whisky matures less whisky. When you reach 12 years, we use 50% single malt and 50% single grain when our blends get older more single malt than single grain. Balance is key. Speyside style, that’s where William was born, distilled, became a blender here. House style sweet, rich, fruity with a touch of peat.

Balance. Complexity but a balanced complexity, hopefully you get some of that in the 12yo

WI: nice nose, some smoke on it, which surprises me.

Ludo: It’s the peat in our range, predominantly speyside. We use a few highland, lowland and islay single malts.  You want to use those with moderation as they can easily take over a blend.  You may notice the texture if quite syrupy. Finish with casks that have just arrived from the US for about 3-6 months.  No other whiskies have been matured in them before.

Vanilla, toffee, honey, flavours come from that extra finishing period.

WI Do casks go off for grain whisky or single malt or a mixture?
Ludo: It’s a mixture, most of these casks will go to our Girvan single grain but also Ailsa Bay

WI: For your grain whisky is it based on wheat or corn?
Ludo: We started using corn or maize, since 1980s we have been using wheat? Logistical perspective you can’t just move from wheat to maize as you can’t mash both in the same way. We also use barley,(aim to use as less as poss) at moment we use around 9%. It’s as good as it gets in Scotland

Grant’s ale cask mature in beer casks, ex ale casks.

Grant’s 18YO

Really really like this one,  won a gold medal for this one, Ludo went back and checked results for the past few years. 18 YO keeps winning gold medals.  Only one other whisky has ever done better our own Balvenie port wood

Finished in port pipes the same as Balvenie

Nutty character, the finish is the longest in the range, after dinner whisky, drink neat, love the mouth feel, the aftertaste, the finish.

The majority single malt, minority single grain. Whisky in Europe can not be matured in a cask bigger than 700L, these were matured in 600L.

Master blender assess casks regularly and decides when they should be blended and bottled, can’t just put them in a cask for 3 months and leave them.  Thing with blends is nothing is set in stone, maturation is a natural process. You have indications, you know it’s going to take at least 3 months so you know you need to keep an eye on them.

Grant’s 25YO

Started blended in 2009 Brian Kinsman New master blender, took over from David Stewart who had been working for us for over 45 years. Brian is 6th master blender in our company’s history, took over in 2009 after an 8 years apprenticeship. One of the first things we asked him to do was come up with an old whisky to celebrate 100 years since charles Gordon completed his trip around the world.

Oldest blend to date, he thought it would be a good idea to use 25 whiskies. When you blend whisky you still need quite a lot of different casks to get the complexity you need 40% single grain 60% single malt

Chairman said we should feel free to use some of our rarest 1964 Girvan.  And valuable stock. Hopefully that should show. A lot of maturity, very mellow, very sweet, honeyed as you would expect from grants.  If you’re used to drinking the family reserve, yes you will get something more mature but you should know it’s a grant’s blend.  Sherry cask in the nose and the taste.

Sweet vanilla, honey toffee, influenced from Spanish oak casks, so Christmas cake notes, dried fruits, certain spiciness, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves sometimes.  Leather notes, tobacco notes, remind me of an old loft or an old cigar box. overall Sweet, well balanced.

Closer to the Family Reserve than grant’s 12 and grant’s 18

25 YO available in travel retail but am not sure if it’s available in Canada. SELL 2000 First vatting but have more in mind ready to be bottled. Limited edition.

Family Reserve does really well in Canada, it’s the best selling scotch whisky in Canada.

Whisky Intelligence Tasting Notes

Many thanks to Ludo (and Rebecca) for the samples.

Grant’s 12yo Blended Scotch Whisky (40%, OB, 2010)

On the nose there is a surprising arrival of honeyed delicate smoke; how delightful! This is really rather lovely. Lots of fruit and more of the delightful honey and delicate smoke. A little time in the hand and some nice malt emerges to compliment the fruit and the peat smoke. The taste is much like the nose but perhaps a tinge towards dryness while still presenting the smoke but now with a focus on some stronger notes of leather along with the malt. Some honey still but still quite excellent. The finish is much like the taste; both dry and smokey with the malt merrily along for the ride. It’s warming, long and delicious. The smoke takes a back seat after a while and allows the honey and the malt to step forward but it’s still there.

This is very nice whisky, my oh, my.

£26

Score 87 points

Grant’s 18yo Blended Scotch Whisky (40%, OB, 2010)

The nose is quite rich speaking of dark Christmas cake (or fruit cake), rich fruity sweet wines, marmalade, dried apricots. Very good, warm Demerara brown sugar (however not over whelming so). In the back ground are so oak notes and maybe even some cedar (think of the wood that lines some humidors).  The richness of the fruit and brown sugar have the edge here, The taste is really good, the richness of the fruit along with some malt is very seductive and it just grows. There’s some hints of leather and tobacco in the back ground to strengthen the combination of flavour. A tinge of what appears to be smoke emerges briefly and is most welcome. The finish is warming and again sweet with the leather and tobacco appearing however they do not detract. The finish is very long and flavourful, a sensational finish.

This is really very nice whisky and very well balanced.

£38

Score 88 points

Grant’s 25yo Blended Scotch Whisky (40%, OB, 2010)

On the nose there’s some initial dryness that quickly evolve into a very good richness hand in hand with some barley dust (almost short bread in some ways)  that quickly evolves into some exquisite richness akin to older sherried malts. Also some late arrival of unsweetened cocoa and oak spice, all very elegant. Time in the glass only allows the picture to evolve into a much more complex and pleasing whisky. The taste is both dry and honeyed backed some really good dry coca and oak spice. Once again the taste is very, very good. The richness (best described as sun drenched raisins loaded with desert wine) is also complimented by some chocolate malt. The finish is warming and very much a mirror of the nose and the taste, it hold together very well delivering a last glimpse of what was. It’s very long and consistent. And very good.

25YO £160/£145 in Travel Retail

Score 90 points

Visit Grant’s Blended Scotch Whisky at www.grantswhisky.com

Auchentoshan 1998/2010 (54.6%, OB, Sherry Cask Matured) Limited Edition

“Distilled in 1998 and matured in European Oak, Fino Sherry barrels until bottled in 2010. Limited Edition.  The nose is clean and vibrant with lots of sherry goodness along with cedar influence, hints of candle wax, varnish and cold unsweetened black tea (and no milk).  It’s good. There are also some Christmas cake but the light version, not the heavy dark version. Hints of marmalade too. The box of tricks here. With water a bit more of the green emerges and a bit more of the varnish. The taste is malty at first with some hints of green and then the sherry and European oak take over and at cask strength it’s very strong and alive, vibrant with some Weetabix like in the back ground. With water it is significantly more approachable and more syrupy but the sherry notes are still present. The finish is a roiling adventure with the sherry notes, the malt and the cedar/oak spice having a really good tussle. It’s quite long and certainly not gentle but it’s good. Water smoothes it out and actually lengthens and broadens the finish. A bit more of the ‘all mouth’ experience.

Takes water but don’t go over board. An interesting variation from the other official bottlings and very good.

S65

Score 84 points.

Visit Auchentoshan Distillery at www.auchentoshan.co.uk

Exclusive, 70 Year Old Malt and the ‘Lifetime’ of one of Scotland’s Most Iconic Whiskies Revealed

‘Sequel’ to world’s oldest whisky unveiled

From today, whisky lovers will get the chance to own the ‘lifetime’ of one of Scotland’s most iconic whiskies, with the jewel in the crown being a £13,000 bottle of 70 year old Scotch.

Family-owned whisky specialist, Gordon & MacPhail, will unveil one cask of The Glenlivet 70 Years Old, one of the world’s oldest whiskies, at a ceremony in Edinburgh Castle. Described as a “stupendous”, “smooth” and “voluptuous” single malt, and released under G&M’s Generations label, only 100 full-size bottles of this exclusive whisky will be available to buy in 2011.

To make these exclusive purchase extra-special, enthusiasts will also be able to buy a limited edition set, the “Private Collection: Glenlivet Decades.” This set contains a bottle from every decade from the 1950s to 1990s – giving collectors the rare opportunity to own the ‘liquid lifetime’ of the malt.

Founded in 1895, Gordon & MacPhail is known the world over as the custodian of some of the oldest and rarest single malts available. Members of the third and fourth generations of the Urquhart family now own and manage the business.

David and Michael Urquhart, Joint Managing Directors of Gordon & MacPhail, said:

“Following on from the phenomenal success last year of Mortlach 70 Years Old, we decided to release this ‘sister’ Generations cask as there is clearly an enormous demand for greatly aged Scotch Malt Whiskies.

“This cask of The Glenlivet was laid down on 3rd February 1940, on the instruction of our grand-father, John Urquhart. Since then, successive generations of the Urquhart family have been waiting for today – the day it would be ready to share with fellow whisky lovers.

“Throughout the 115 years since we were founded, we have made it our business to nurture and mature some of the finest whiskies Scotland has to offer. The ‘Glenlivet Decades’ collection revisits this special malt throughout the years, allowing whisky enthusiasts to get a real sense of how the cask and the maturation process change the character of a whisky.

“Altogether, these six whiskies represent the ‘liquid lifetime’ of The Glenlivet, and six decades of experience, dedication and passion on the part of our family. We’re confident that this investment has resulted in a suite of whiskies of unparalleled quality: a realcollector’s piece.”

The whiskies will be revealed to an audience of invited guests at a 1940s-themed ceremony at the historic location of Edinburgh Castle.

Well-known whisky connoisseur Charles Maclean described the launch:

“Made at the height of the Battle of Britain, The Glenlivet 1940 opens a door into a different time, another country. To smell and taste this exquisite whisky is to experience the past in a unique way – layer upon layer of flavour, profound and evocative. Its companions from the succeeding five decades provide an unrepeatable opportunity to explore subtle differences in the flavour of this Prince of Whiskies over half a century – as well as being a Blue Chip investment!”.

Each bottle will be beautifully presented in a tear-shaped hand-blown crystal decanter with an elegant British Hallmarked silver stopper. The decanter nestles in a sterling silver base and is framed in a handmade box, crafted in Scotland using Scottish Elm.

The Glenlivet 70 Years Old was matured in a First Fill Sherry Butt, and bottled at cask strength (45.9% ABV). Only 100 70cl bottles and 175 20cl bottles will be released in 2011. The 70cl decanter has a recommended retail price in the UK of £13,000 and the 20cl version has a recommended retail price in the UK of £3,200. It is the second in a series of extremely rare malt whiskies to be released by Gordon & MacPhail under its ‘Generations’ brand.

Fifty limited edition collector’s packs are also available, containing all five Private Collection whiskies, priced at £2,850 per pack. The packs contain one bottle of each of the following whiskies: Glenlivet 1954 50.6%; Glenlivet 1963 40.6%; Glenlivet 1974 50.1%; Glenlivet 1980 48.5%; and Glenlivet 1991 54.4%.

Prices may vary in different countries due to different excise and sales taxes and currency fluctuations.

GORDON & MACPHAIL GENERATIONS GLENLIVET 1940 – 70 Years Old 45.9%

The nose is refined, speaks of some age (although not of 70 years), hints of heather, sherry, plump raisins and some fruit in the form of apricots and lychee. There’s also some oak spice an hints of pepper however this is very subtle. Hints of bees wax, a waft of tobacco (like walking down wind of a curing shed). Some hand warming brings out some malt which nicely ties everything together. The aromas are really a delight and the more times spent in the glass the more that is revealed; all it takes is a little hand warming and the myriad of delicate aromas waft up. It really is quite sensational. The taste is honeyed but also has an immediate malt delivery quickly followed by some oak notes (oak spiciness, a little leather and tobacco) followed by the fruit. Some moments later it turns a little dry along with some banana (but more like they’ve flambéed). Once again quite sensational. Well done.  The finish is quite long and very representative of the afore mentioned descriptors in the nose and the taste. It’s quite long and holds together very well, it doesn’t go off in some unhappy direction. Perhaps a hint of smoke at the tail end?

Very well balanced. Sensational and a real treat. Presents like a dram half it’s age. There’s no need for water to be introduced into the mix quite frankly.

£13,000

Score 91 points

Many thanks to Micheal Urquhart of Gordon & MacPhail for all the sample.

For more information please visit Gordon & MacPhail at www.gordonandmacphail.com.

To make these exclusive purchase extra-special, enthusiasts will also be able to buy a limited edition set, the “Private Collection: Glenlivet Decades.”  This set contains a bottle from every decade from the 1950s to 1990s – giving collectors the rare opportunity to own the ‘liquid lifetime’ of the malt.

Founded in 1895, Gordon & MacPhail is known the world over as the custodian of some of the oldest and rarest single malts available. Members of the third and fourth generations of the Urquhart family now own and manage the business.

David and Michael Urquhart, Joint Managing Directors of Gordon & MacPhail, said: “Following on from the phenomenal success last year of Mortlach 70 Years Old, we decided to release this ‘sister’ Generations cask as there is clearly an enormous demand for greatly aged Scotch Malt Whiskies.

“This cask of The Glenlivet was laid down on 3rd February 1940, on the instruction of our grand-father, John Urquhart. Since then, successive generations of the Urquhart family have been waiting for today – the day it would be ready to share with fellow whisky lovers.

“Throughout the 115 years since we were founded, we have made it our business to nurture and mature some of the finest whiskies Scotland has to offer. The ‘Glenlivet Decades’collection revisits this special malt throughout the years, allowing whisky enthusiasts to get a real sense of how the cask and the maturation process change the character of a whisky.

“Altogether, these six whiskies represent the ‘liquid lifetime’ of The Glenlivet, and six decades of experience, dedication and passion on the part of our family. We’re confident that this investment has resulted in a suite of whiskies of unparalleled quality: a real collector’s piece.”

The whiskies will be revealed to an audience of invited guests at a 1940s-themed ceremony at the historic location of Edinburgh Castle.

GORDON & MACPHAIL PRIVATE COLLECTION GLENLIVET 1954 50.6%

The nose is very much of sour plums and crushed walnut shells along with some aged wood notes. There are also hints of clove and cinnamon and some rich Christmas cake however this is some what in the back ground. After some time in the glass some good sweetness emerges to compliment the afore mentioned descriptors. A little hand warming brings out more of the clove, sweetness and Christmas cake. The taste is dry Christmas cake, orange and oak spice along with the cinnamon and the sweetness along with the sour plum notes. Very aged and in some ways quite delicate but in others quite robust. A little late arrival of ginger and some black pepper. Syrupy along with some leather and tobacco. The influence of the oak is evident but not over whelming.  The finish is long and the notes from the oak are very much in evidence along with some unsweetened cocoa, bitter chocolate. Dry but note overly so and the ginger and black pepper make a late arrival to the finish.

Quite the experience indeed.

£1,250

Score 88 points

GORDON & MACPHAIL PRIVATE COLLECTION 1963 40.6%

The nose is light and fragrant with hints of pear and banana (ever so slight), caramel, maple syrup (again very slight) and some raisins. Everything is quite delicate but all are in harmony. On the wood side of the house there is some comment from the cask but it is not a shouting match gone awry. Very, very nice. More time in the glass only improves the aromas.  The taste is actually like many current official bottlings of the Glenlivet and reminds of some Scotch Malt Whisky Society bottlings. This is sensational. It is both fruity and malty, very elegant and refined. Indeed. A little late arrival of some of the oak influence. The finish is a reflection of the taste, long and clean with some good fruit and after a minute the oak begins to make a showing however it is not out of hand. A very good finish.

Quite a dram, very enjoyable and well worth the wait. The poor man’s G&M Glenlivet 70 year old. 🙂

£750

Score 90 points

GORDON & MACPHAIL PRIVATE COLLECTION GLENLIVET 1974 50.1%

The nose is reminiscent of antiques and Christmas cake; lots of fruit notes however not simply fruit lying about in a bowl but dried fruit that have been rejuvenated with some kind of rich spirit. All this backed by some oak spice and hints of chocolate, a little hand warming brings out further sweetness (and some ‘oiliness’).  What an excellent collection of aromas. With the addition of a little water a little more of the oak notes appear. The taste is strong and peppery at first blush however soon after the Christmas cake notes brush them aside and take over. Oh my, this is really very good and not dominated by the oak.  All work well together. With a little water it mellows quite well although it is quite excellent neat. The finish is of bitter chocolate and the afore mentioned sherry notes. It is quite long and consistent, after a minute or two the oak spice and some dryness are very much in evidence.

Quite elegant.

£500

Score 88 points

GORDON & MACPHAIL. PRIVATE COLLECTION GLENLIVET 1980 48.5%

The nose is of sour cherries and over ripe pears (& apricots), very rich with some Demerara brown sugar and Fry’s unsweetened cocoa powder. Hints of tobacco and leather in the back ground along with some sweet malt. With water it opens up well, a little water improves the aromas. The taste is marvelous, malt, a little pepper and then the honey once again along with the sour cherries. A touch of dark cake (over cooked) along with heather. With water there is some change resulting in an improved dram, water does the trick. Still quite spicy but a bigger experience. The finish presents oak spice and tobacco, a little more of the over cooked cake. It is long and even, the start is the end with the oak spice present from the whole journey. The finish after the addition of the water is livelier.

The addition of a little water is welcome to the experience.

£250

Score 85 points

GORDON & MACPHAIL PRIVATE COLLECTION GLENLIVET 1991 54.4%

The nose is fragrant and extremely pleasing right at the start and yet this occurs above the glass rim. Further depth reveals a combination of honeyed warm melon and some oak spice in the form of cedar and vague hints of marmalade. This is very elegant. Hand warming increases the aromas. Delightful. Some time in the glass allows for a few notes of unlit tobacco to emerge. The taste is warming and vibrant at full strength with some malt and then the brilliant honeyed notes followed by the oak spice. Some pepper and a hint of clove perhaps? As with the aromas I the taste is very good. A dollop of water does it no harm, it holds together well and brings forth more of the fruit and syrup. The finish is much the same as the nose and the taste and is very consistent. Some slight increase in the oak spice and pepper but the malt and the honey are still present.

 £95

Score 86 points

GLENLIVET DECADES 5 BOTTLE PACK

50 Private Collection: Glenlivet Decades packs are available, priced at £2,850 per pack.

They contain one bottle of each of the following whiskies: Glenlivet 1954 50.6%; Glenlivet 1963 40.6%; Glenlivet 1974 50.1%; Glenlivet 1980 48.5%; and Glenlivet 1991 54.4%.

Limited quantities of these vintages are sold as single bottles.

Many thanks to Micheal Urquhart of Gordon & MacPhail for all the samples.

Please visit Gordon & MacPhail at www.gordonandmacphail.com

Highland Park 1998/2010 (40%, OB)

“Created Exclusively For Global Travel Retail” and in a 1 Litre bottle. Big. The math says a 12 year old (1998/2010). The nose is quite gentle at first quickly followed by some rich earthy & wood notes.  After a minute or two in the glass the smokey notes begin to emerge along with hints of citrus. The more time in the glass the more it opens up and improves with some really good gentle smoke and (now) some malt.  There are also some hints of unlit cured tobacco lurking in the background. The taste is indeed smokey and malty with the citrus. And the smoke does grow quite quickly but the citrus really does throw its weight around a fair amount. Again a gentle start however this changes quickly. Vibrant, malty, smokey and the afore mentioned citrus.  Also some really good wood spice and a tinge of unsweetened cocoa. The finish is malty along with the smoke (which is not so much of a contributor) but the citrus plus the malt work well together. The finish is quite long but once again quite restrained in some ways but all very nice. Lashing of more smoke and malt after 5 minutes.

An enjoyable dram and a little different from many Highland Park but still enjoyable.

£36.99 at World of Whiskies

Score 85 points

Glencadam 21yo (46%, OB, +/-2010)

“Unchillfiltered and No Added Colouring” What a great start. The nose presents as quite sweet but with a strong back ground that is both gently of heather and tinned fruit cocktail (with the syrup). There are also some pleasant green notes much like a green head of plump barley. The taste is warming and again sweet with a good solid taste, hints of leather and tobacco along with oak spice and of course the sweetness. A flash of coconut. A very ‘big’ feel in the mouth, loads of flavour. Quite excellent actually.  Some what of a different style from many whiskies  and not ambushed by the oak influence, all in harmony. The finish is quite long, mildly fragrant, chewy malt. Some ginger something pops up in the finish to give the whole picture a bit of a twist. Sweet malt at the very end.

A damn fine dram, impress your friends. Refined and still vibrant. Well done.

£50 at Loch Fyne Whiskies

Score 87 points

Old Pulteney WK209 “Good Hope” 46% (distillery pre production sample)

Old Pulteney WK209 ‘Good Hope’
• Follows a highly successful WK499 ‘Isabella Fortuna’ as Old Pulteney’s travel retail offering
• Limited to only 1,600 cases (of 6 x 1 litre bottles)
• Unchill-filtered, natural colour
• Bottled at 46% ABV
• Matured entirely in European sherry casks
• Named after a steam Herring Drifter WK209 ‘Good Hope’ built in Wick in 1948, first boat in Wick to use echo sounder

Malt and honey on the nose to start although the malt is of the ‘dusty’ variety like when you scoop a handful of dry malt from the kiln. There‘s also a little meatiness in the background just behind some leather notes and then moments of clove, but just moments. A little hand warming intensifies the afore mentioned characteristics nicely. The taste is brilliantly honeyed and malty at the same time with just hints of the leather which is now some really good oak spice and cocoa. This is very nice, the oak spice, cocoa, honey, sherry and malt work really well together.  Ah, some orange notes also. The finish consists of blasts sweet sherried malt quickly followed by the other notes, it is quite long and it holds together very well and after a number of minutes the malt and the orange notes are the last impression.

Very drinkable and moreish.

Score 88 points

Sullivans Cove NAS ‘Cask Strength American Oak (60%, OB, Bourbon, C#HH0602, 222 Bts, D’ 21/2/2001 B’ 10/09/2009)

‘Distilled with conviction’ A strong citrus nose almost concentrated in character, very different from scotch along with hints of pine and Marmite. Orange, pine Marmite and hidden well below all this activity is some shy malt. It’s quite strong and there’s also moments of hot buttered popcorn and gun oil. And hints of green malt. There’s a lot going on in the glass, quite extraordinary. This call for water; now there is increased popcorn and some heavy diesel notes followed by some green malt. But the buttered popcorn is every where. The taste with water is a sudden and rapid departure from the nose with some good sweetness (think of barley sugar candies) some, light malt and lots of heavy oaky notes and leather. A little of the popcorn desperately waving in the background and shouting “Don’t forget about me!” It’s much different from a Scottish malt however this is not a criticism, it just is and it’s very good. The finish is warming and long with all of the aforementioned descriptors and the conclusion is that it’s quite well balanced.

Opens up nicely with water.

$112

Score 80 points

http://www.tasmaniadistillery.com/

Glenmorangie Nectar D’Or 12yo (46%, OB, +/-2010)

Usually found without an age statement and some what of a mystery of how this sample arrived at Whisky Intelligence world headquarters but it is here so it must have its teeth checked, so to speak. The label proclaims that “This non chill-filtered single malt is initially matured in bourbon casks then extra matured in Sauternes ‘Barriques’ to create a sumptuous taste” The nose shows a little alcohol at first but then some rich raisin and citrus notes emerge that evolve into a jumble of pleasant sweet and sour aromas. With more time in the glass heady rich sun drenched raisin notes take over along with some hints of coffee in the background. There is also a goodly amount of the malt that some many Glenmorangie drams are famous for. Very nice. The taste is warming and immediately filled with rich, rich raisin notes and then some strong oaky leather tastes that really contrast the sweetness of the sun dried raisins very well. The malt makes a late appearance but it is there. Also some creamy notes hovering in there somewhere. The finish is more of the sweet and sour followed by loads of malt and all this continues for some while, it’s a long finish. It’s nice to see the malt take over at the end. Dusty malt after a number of minutes.

The Sauternes has done its work and added depth.

No idea on cost…

Score 86

www.glenmorangie.com

Wemyss 15yo “The Hive” (46%, OB, Hogshead, 396 Bts., 2009)

“Each cask that is chosen for bottling is representative of the best characteristics of its regional origins and only the best casks are chosen by our Nosing Panel, which is chaired by Charlie Maclean. This strict selection process limits the number of casks which are of the exceptional quality required to be elevated into this range.”

“The Hive Single Highland Scotch Whisky” Distillery unknown. The nose takes a moment to open up and then the aromas arrive; some slight green notes right off  and then….it’s somewhat retrained. Good, but retrained, light fruit and some hints of floral notes. Also hints of barley, some winey notes and some oak spice. Subtle. The taste is much different from the nose with lots of flavour in the form of malt, oak spice, fruit (oh crap, this is the same as the nose), grapefruit, citrus and cocoa. It’s actually very good which is a relief after the restrained start on the nose. The finish is malty with wine like characteristics and some good malt moments. It’s quite long and clean, not off notes and then some really excellent dark chocolate and another burst of malt. It’s very long.

A single malt that builds from nose to finish. Well done Charlie! Many thanks to Al and Maggie for the sample.

$114 at Hi-Time in California

Score 84 points