Greenore 18yo (46%, Cooley Distillery PLC Single Grain Irish Whiskey)

A distinctive nose; sharp and vibrant, lively and pleasing. Slightly floral but contrasted by some good wood notes. Not overly complex however this is not a negative observation, the notes that present are very good. A little hand warming brings out some sweet grain, again very nice. The taste is very, very gentle and smooth along with the grain and the sweetness. Oh my, this is really sensational whiskey, no wonder the younger sibling is winning awards. A little oiliness in the back ground along with some really good grain notes. Beautiful. The finish has a flash of a really good gin (hints of juniper?) and then the sweet grain muscles its way back to the for. Mouth filling and gentle at the same time. Long and very, very perfect.

Brilliant. No idea on price – sample kindly provided by the proprietors. On of the top whiskies sampled in 2011.

Score 90 points

 http://www.cooleywhiskey.com/ 

The Irishman NAS ‘Rare Cask Strength’ (53%, OB, 2850 bts., 2010)

The nose is delicate at the start, a little time in the glass but shows some delicate grape fruit characteristics, hints of lavender, rose and heather but some woody and fruity notes begin to show themselves.  The presents as if it has some age. After more time in the glass the malt becomes more evident along with hints of oiliness. The taste is a surprise and is much more vibrant than the nose and it’s very good. Some cocoa, malt, dry oak flavours and then some mild olive oil notes and then BAM! some really good clean grains typical of many Irish whiskies. Lovely stuff quite frankly and there is a lot going on. The finish is very flavourful and long, warming and now some sweetness arrives (think of syrup drenched waffles – but with some restraint). The finish is very, very long with some really good oiliness clinging on seemingly forever.

No idea on price – sample kindly provided by the proprietors.

Score 86 points

http://www.hotirishman.com/

Jameson NAS (40%, OB, 2010) Lot JQ-058548

From www.jamesonwhiskey.com

“Triple Distilled, Twice as Smooth. The number three. The ancient Greek, Pythogoras, described it as the perfect number. And, as everybody knows, three time’s a charm. So, unlike American whiskies, which are usually distilled just once, and Scotch whiskies, which try a little harder with two distillations, we distil Jameson Irish Whiskey three times.

Perfectly Balanced. Balance is also important. While we love the number three (it’s been good to us), we’re also very keen on the dynamic equilibriums of two forces balanced to create perfection. We mix precisely the right amount of malted barley and exactly the right amount of unmalted barley. Likewise our pot still whiskeys complement our delicate grain whiskeys beautifully. We balance the nutty flavours of our sherry casks with the fragrant vanilla of our bourbon casks. All resulting in a perfectly balanced whiskey.

Single Distillery. And finally, we could not talk about our triple distillation and perfect balance without mentioning our Midleton Single Distillery. It is where, under the one roof and under the careful gaze of our whiskey masterminds, that every drop of Jameson Irish Whiskey is created, meaning we can guarantee the quality of every last sip.”

On the nose there is a distinctively oiliness intermingled with some grains and some really good sharp notes. The descriptors are quite quickly joined by some sweet notes. The lighter notes can be described as fresh cut grass and all is all it’s very vibrant. The taste quite honeyed at first followed by the oiliness and then the grains in quick succession. It’s very good and is still quite vibrant. Loads of flavour here. Moments of black pepper and further sweetness although this does not dominate; everything works very well together. Excellent! The finish is a mirror of the previous descriptors but then it becomes dry along with some malty moments (cocoa and oak spice) and it’s very long and lingers.

Lashings of activity here even for a 40% ABV but presents and tastes very well.

A mere $30

Score 85 points

Isle of Arran “Machrie Moor” 1st Edition (46%, OB, 9,000 Bts., 2010)

“On the west coast of the Isle of Arran lies a windswept and mystical peat bog called Machrie Moor.  Bronze Age stone circles and standing stones are strewn across its barren, undulating terrain.  One of the stone circles is known as Fingal’s Cauldron Seat, where sits a stone with a carved hole.  The legendary warrior giant Fingal is said to have tethered his favourite dog Bran to this stone.  This peated expression of the Arran Single Malt perfectly captures the rugged beauty and lore of this landscape. Unleash the legend that is Machrie Moor.”

Machrie Moor Specifications;  Peated Arran distilled every year since 2004. Malted barley peated to a level of 14ppm. Machrie Moor First Release – Limited Edition of 9,000 bottles worldwide. Classic Arran with a peaty punch. Bottled at 46%. Non chill-filtered and No artificial colouring.

The nose starts with honeyed malt and then some peat smoke along with some good vibrancy that is quite attractive. Surprisingly sweet and a delightful interplay between the two however with time in the glass some fruity notes emerge with the peat smoke taking on some definition that is certainly not Islay in style, perhaps leaning a little towards a peated Speysider. There is also some youth in the foreground along with some gentle orange notes (perhaps more Clementine than orange). It all works very well. The taste is gentle at first but this quickly is swept aside by some peat and malt, the two are quite aggressive together. Very, very peppery along with some later moments of oak spice and dark unsweetened chocolate. The peat is an equal partner in this project and it does not dominate. The finish is Arran biscuity malt followed by the peat, some fruit and the pepper. The finish is very long and then the characteristic Arran biscuity notes re-emerge to take over the finish.

Not a hugely peated single malt and some what restrained however there is loads of flavour here, another good dram from Isle of Arran distillery. It’s good.

£37.99

Score 85 points

Thomas Handy Sazerac NAS Limited Edition Straight Rye Kentucky Whiskey (63.45%, OB, +/-2009)

Sugar dusted orange on the nose with a sensational sweetness along with some very good oak spice all sprinkled with the orange dusted with sugar along with hints of cold unsweetened Oolong tea. This is very good, scratch that, sensational. The taste  is rich fruit, qyuite dry and has loads of oak notes along with the dusted fruit and some of the cold tea notes. Again sensational stuff. It actually is quite drinkable without water but its very, very peppery. The finish is long, long and very warming with all the previously described descriptors holding court.

Powerful, sensational and delicious. Somebody else can add water and see what it’s like…

+/- $65 from internet searches…

Score 90 points

sample image

Bruichladdich “Laddie Classic” Edition 01 (46%, OB, 2009)

The nose is gentle at first but quickly reveals rich dried fruits, honey and some very vague hints of tobacco and varnish. Hovering in the back ground is the slightest hint of mint followed by some maritime notes and bees wax. A different aroma for a Bruichladdich in some ways and very good. The taste is right off very nice; the rich dried fruits that come across as a Sauternes finish along with some good pepper, oak spice and barley sugar. It’s not overly sweet but there is a good rich sweetness to it. Some really good malt pops up suddenly and then the rich dried fruit emerge again. Lots going on here. The finish is more of the aforementioned descriptors and it continues to be mouth smashingly good, more of the rich fruit notes that continue off into the sunset for an amazingly long time. The finish is very long and warming.

A grand dram to sit quietly with, it takes some study but it’s all there. And many thanks to Duncan for the sample.

$80 or £33 at the Whisky Exchange

Score 86 points

Spey Cast 12yo (40%, James Gordon & Co, +/-2010)

Who’s’ heard of Spey cast and James Gordon & Co., Elgin? Well, we’ve been told they are owned by Gordon & MacPhail who are also in located Elgin and a quick search of the G&M website reveals that Spey Cast won a Silver Award in the 1982 and 1985 International Spirit Competition. In any case Richard Joynson of Loch Fyne Whiskies notes that it is “One of my favourite blends, very fruity and quite thick for a blend. Ace.” The nose reveals some heaviness in the form of rich fruit, hints of barley dust and some sweetness quickly followed by some wood notes. After a few minutes in the glass some citrus notes emerge. The taste is gentle at first but then the flavour rises up, very honeyed, fruit, some citrus, sparkling malt and some good grains in the back ground but not over whelming.  All in balance and very good. Warming, really very nice. Now a moment of definitive orange. Take a really big mouthful, lots of happiness here. The finish is gentle but still with all the previously described flavours and it’s quite long and continues to be very good.

A lot of value for the money

£21 at Loch Fyne Whiskies.

Score 87 points

Ballantine’s 17yo (43%, OB, +/-2011)

A blended ‘Very Old’ scotch whisky and Jim Murray’s Scotch Whisky of the Year in the 2011 Whisky Bible. Now, here at Whisky Intelligence World Headquarters we are well acquainted with Ballantine’s 17yo but have never completed an official tasting note (but it’s highly unlikely this sample and Jim Murray’s are from the same batch) so…on the nose it presents rather delicately at first but a small amount of time in the glass allows it to open up. There is some honey notes, very slight hints of green grass followed by some delicate peat smoke, fruit and cereal notes, biscuits and perhaps some light floral notes but nothing dramatic and the later only adds to the collection of aromas. A little time hand warming brings worth more of the same but intensified; it’s very, very good. The taste is warming, honeyed and then the fruit and peat smoke arrive back by some really nice grains whisky notes. All very pleasant. A really fantastic inter play between the grain, the fruit, the honey notes and the peat smoke. Sensational stuff. The finish is malty and honeyed along with the fruit and a little less peat smoke but the malt notes are a little bigger on the finish. Still all very good with a long finish that becomes active and chewy are a minute.

A really nice dram, a good start to an evening to wake up the taste buds.

C$78 in some markets, more in many others.

Score 89 points.

Ballantine's 17 Year Old

MacDuff 9yo 2000/2010 (61.1%, Dewar Rattray, 1st Fill Sherry, 307 Bts., C#5778)

Only part of the cask (perhaps the remainder is being kept for bottling at a later date?) and from an unusual distillery; MacDuff is not the most prolific distillery in Scotland. The nose rich in dark fruits and some nice oak, with some time in the glass it becomes creamy and further richness surfaces. Loads of sherry which seems to mask some vibrancy but no matter it’s quite nice. The taste is now vibrant with lashings of sherry and leather backing it all up. It’s very, very dry after of a few moments with loads of oak and sherry. Some later late moments of caramel (think of the caramel/toffee on a warmed apple). The finish is still very dry and warming, it’s also very long and towards the end some malt emerges to look around but then is smacked in the head by some creaminess.

Good fun and a sensational vibrant dram, well sherried and enjoyable.

Score 87 points

Isle of Arran 13yo 1997/2010 (46%, A. Dewar Rattray, Bourbon, 255 Bts., C#97/509)

From the new (2010) 46% line from A. Dewar Rattray; still single cask but bottled at 46% instead of cask strength. The nose is citrus however almost like a lemon cough drop, some biscuity malt hiding shyly in the back ground reminding the entire famed Arran note. Very clean and pleasant; a fine start. The taste is still vibrant and now the malt comes crashing to the fore, this is Arran! Excellent maltiness here nicely backed by the bourbon and some clean oak spice. The lemon/citrus is still present but slightly muted however this does not detract. The finish is clean and filled with the trio of malt, lemon/bourbon and oak spice. It’s quite long and clean, not simple but not overly cluttered, this is whisky at work and it know the direction of its’ compass.

Isle of Arran striking some grand notes here.

Score 88 points.

Highland Park 18yo 1992/2010 (58.6%, A. Dewar Rattray, Bourbon/Rum, 118 bts., C#2)

A strikingly different nose from most Highland Park; actual rum and a distinct creaminess followed by even more rum. “Argh! prepare to be boarded matey’s”. Perhaps if one delves deep enough there is indeed some hints of Highland Park peat smoke however at first and second blush it’s amazingly of RUM. And hints of banana. Any more of this and we’ll be describing a Daiquiri. However it is pleasant. Onto the taste which represents Highland Park quite well, some malt, honey and peat smoke followed by the rum which is all very good, even hints of the bananas which in a fashion bind it all together. The light peat smoke is still evident throughout and is a welcome addition to the rum notes. The finish is warming and more of the rum but once again the very light peat smoke and typical Highland Park honey work well, a very enjoyable finish that goes on and on, very warming with some malt and toast popping up at the very last.

This is very nice whisky and the rum finish works very well.

Score 88 points.

BenRiach 19yo 1991/2010 (46%, A. Dewar Rattray, Bourbon, 226 bts., C#110682)

Another bottling from the new (2010) 46% line. The nose shows some gentle bourbon notes  along with some slight hints of pineapple and clove as well as hints of strawberry. After a few moments in the glass some dusty malt starts to emerge, this is all very nice. The taste is malt and oak spice backed by the bourbon notes but the American influence does not dominate, it only enhances. This is very good and shows the positive influence an ex-American cask can have on Scotch whisky. Despite being reduced to a mere 46% from cask strength there is still oodles of flavour here and perhaps the reduction has not hurt since the alcohol does not dominate. Dusty malt and oak spice towards the later part of the taste, sensational. The finish well behaved and a further reflection of the taste, very nice. A tad restrained but still loads of character lasts for a very long time. After some minutes you are left with some light mint, the dry mat and some dry oakiness. It’s all very long and good.

Brilliant stuff this BenRiach.

Score 89 points.

Bowmore 20yo 1990/2010 (50.2%, 1st fill Bourbon 204 Bts., C#272)

Lots of spice on the nose and some slightly green malt followed by some strong peat smoke all of which work well together however the peat smoke is not over whelming but a very pleasant addition to the sum. There are also some good fruit notes and the afore mentioned oak spice. The taste is very different from many Bowmore (at first), the 1st fill Bourbon hides the character some what but after a moment or two there is no hiding it and it is very evident and good. The peat smoke and some honey emerge and these two really bring it all together. It is also very dry with loads of wood notes which nicely add to the mix. The finish is very much of the lumber yard along with some fruit, cold dark unsweetened tea, peat smoke and leather/tobacco notes. It is all very long and warming and the peat smoke now finally starts to take the reins of power for the final number of minutes; the other descriptors are merely along for the ride.

Nice to see some restrained peat smoke with character.

Score 89 points.

Linkwood 26yo 1984/2010 (55.9%, A. Dewar Rattray, Bourbon, 306 bts., C#1624)

A little floral notes on the nose which differs from most of the flock and then some excellent bourbon aromas, all very good so far. Then some more subtle notes peek out from behind the floral (honey and brown sugar) but the floral, which is actually quite mild, is to the fore. Also some ‘dry’ notes (oak spice and mild unlit tobacco). All in all quite a subtle collection of aromas. The taste is very different from the nose and VERY dry and then surprisingly a little smoke peaks out and intertwines with dry notes. And malt, the malt and some light fruit now emerge, a bit of a jumble (along with the floral) but it works and it’s an superb dram. Light mustard too(!). The finish is malty with hints of floral and the dryness. After a few minutes some fruit and malt is present, fruit and malt and dryness from some oak spice.

Some will find the dryness a little over the top however others, who really like dry whiskies, will be thrilled with this style of whisky.

Score 89 points

Tamdhu 30yo 1980/2010 (55.5%, A. Dewar Rattray, Bourbon, 152 Bts., C#9224)

Some nicely sweetness on the nose, very ‘antique’ and pleasant along with some hints of malt. There are also vague hints of hints of ginger, black liquorice and honey. The combination of the ‘antique and the other characteristics are a heady mix indeed. This is sensational stuff…one must not forget the bourbon, that’s in their also along with some hints for the floral notes one often encounters in Makers Mark. The taste is not overly strong at first which quickly changes) but also some bourbon notes, citrus, malt and some really nice dryness. The finish is much as before however the addition of some dusty malt is a welcome moment to be sure. The finish continues for quite a while but is some what muted quite quickly but this is not a negative, it’s pleasant.

A really nice sample that is not beat about the head by dryness, well balanced. Great whisky.

Score 90 points

Inchgower 36yo 1974/2010 (56.4%, Dewar Rattray, Bourbon, 229 Bts., C#7762)

From A. Dewar Rattray Cask Collection #25. The nose is honeyed and very quickly followed and dominated by some strength in the shape of bourbon notes. The bourbon notes are also intermingled with some apple and pear notes, both of the warmed variety (fresh from the oven in a pie or such). Delightful. Candy floss and now some antique notes wearing the suit of leather and tobacco however the cloth is woven heavier in tobacco than the leather. The taste is a very accurate reflection of the nose but leans towards the antique and away from the honey and baked apples and pears. This is very nice and of a quality that only comes from age. The finish is once again a follow up of the taste. There is some serious consistency here. After some moments some really excellent malt emerges and swirls effortlessly with the oak spice, bourbon and antique notes.

Well done, excellent stuff.

Score 90 points

Tomintoul 43yo 1967/2010 (44.3%, A. Dewar Rattray, Bourbon, 123 Bts., C#2337)

An very aged Tomintoul with only a small number of bottles that survived the challenges of life to reach great age. The nose is slightly peppered at first blush however some fruit starts to emerge (slowly) with some time spent languishing in the glass and then some honeyed notes, all of which are very pleasant. There is also some dusty malt hovering in the back ground with some gentle, gentle leather notes. A heady combination that is very seductive and points to a quality dram. The taste is quite gentle and warming, mild pepper, leather notes and some fire weed honey. Also some truly excellent oak spice flavours tie everything together. It’s not overly complicated but it is quite sensational. The finish is a little dry at first but then the previously described aromas waft out and all is well. It’s along lingering finish that is really quite excellent. More oak moments and malt after a number of minutes.

Very nice indeed, well dome for sourcing this treasure.

Score 92 points.

Visit A. Dewar Rattray at www.dewarrattray.com  (Many thanks to Nick at A. Dewar Rattary and Jonathan at Purple Valley Imports for the excellent samples). 

Tomorrow on Whisky Intelligence a review of nine excellent single cask bottlings from the independant bottler A. Dewar Rattray.