Jay Erisman · Fine Spirits Buyer
Hey, Bourbon Month? Rye Was Here First!
Here on the banks of the Ohio River…on the correct side of the river for Bourbon…we are celebrating Bourbon all month long in September, National Bourbon Month. But what about America’s oldest whiskey? Isn’t that Bourbon? NO! No, it is not Bourbon: RYE WHISKEY was the first whiskey distilled, perhaps around 1760, in our soon-to-be-Union. The corn-led, corn-fed Bourbon category didn’t truly come to be until westward expansion and settlement reached Kentucky, and a literal raft of farmer-distillers reached these lands where corn grows so well. But before the Revolution of 1775-76, the predominant grain on the east coast and up into New England was rye. A hardy European grain, rye took well to the cooler temperatures and poorer soils of the northeast. Among the leading early rye distillers was none other than George Washington—you can visit a reconstructed distillery on the grounds of his home/plantation Mount Vernon today, who reported the demand for rye whiskey “in these parts” was “brisk.”
As European expansion moved westward, rye whiskey went along with the farmers. The Monongahela River valley in western Pennsylvania gained particular acclaim for its rye whiskey, an industry that would persevere until Prohibition, after which it Largely ceased. Another rye tradition was centered around Maryland rye, of which the brand Pikesville survives today (though distilled in Kentucky by Heaven Hill). Some of these farmer-distillers continued west into the environs of Ohio and onwards; today we have just one of them remaining, the absolutely incredible Indian Creek Distillery in New Carlisle, Ohio, and well worth a visit to see their 1820-vintage stills. Today American rye whiskey is healthier than ever, as veritable lakes of whiskey cascade out of America’s distilleries, none more so than our neighbor in Lawrenceburg, Indiana, where the ex-Seagram’s distillery known today as MGP continues to crank out a thrilling mashbill of 95% rye. But there is one more tradition that was yet to be recovered…
In post-Civil War days, American distillers conceived of a new type of still, unique in the world, that somewhat bridges the gap between the perceived small-handed artisanship of the pot still and the higher industrial output of the column still. This was the three-chambered still, and it particularly was used to distill rye whiskey, often then used as a blending agent. No three-chambered stills would survive Prohibition, with none operating in America…until Todd Leopold had an idea.
Leopold Brothers ranks today as one of America’s greatest craft distilleries. Founded in 1999 in Michigan, they’ve worked in Denver, Colorado since the early 2000s. Brother Todd is the Master Distiller, in charge of everything from liqueurs and gin to whiskeys and brandies. A history buff as well, Todd was determined to resurrect the three-chamber style…and he did, commissioning a custom still from Vendome Copper & Brass in Louisville (here’s the fascinating story). The result today is arguably the greatest rye whiskey made in America (the world?) today. And wouldn’t you know it, we have some. Rippling and riveted with spiced and fruited flavors, this is an epochal rye whiskey the likes of which have not been tasted in over a hundred years.
So, take that, Bourbon! A comeuppance from your older-brother, big-sister whiskey, the RYE of America. Why doesn’t American Rye Whiskey get its own special month?
