Old Parr 12yo (40%, OB, +/-2010)

Launched in 1909 with top markets in Japan, Mexico, Colombia and Venezuela. The variants are Grand Old Parr (12 year old), Old Parr (15 year old) and Old Parr Superior (18 year old). Old Parr is well known as a traditional blended Scotch whisky with its unique bottle design. Thomas Parr (known as “Old Par”) was apparently Britain’s oldest man. He lived for 152 years and at the age of 122 he married for the second time. He is buried in Westminster Abbey, London. (From Diageo)

On the nose it’s slightly restrained at first but still pleasant, very much middle of the road if one is stumped for a collection of descriptors then simply saying ‘whisky’ would put you in the ball park. Some further time in the glass reveals (some what begrudgingly) some toffee notes and some hints of oak spice. Some further time in the glass brings out some citrus and quite possibly a little bit of peat smoke. All slightly elusive but still pleasant. The taste is really very nice and again not over whelming in any one area; very much middle of the road with some good sweetness, a little dark chocolate, a little malt dust and some more of the oak spice. Any weight come in the form of Bovril (just a tinge) and some Ovalteen. The finish is malty and honeyed, very mouth filling but does not stray from the script as previously described. It’s actually quite long but the dark chocolate bitterness gives way to a slightly less appealing bitterness after a minute or so but then the toffee re-emerges so all is forgiven. After a few minutes some good malt shows up…

Quite a pleasant dram and nice to try after seeing it in books for so many years.

Only $28

Score 81 points.

Tomatin 21yo (55.2%, A. Dewar Rattray, Bourbon, C#1088, 213 Bts., D’01/06/88 B’ 06/05/10)

On the nose it’s quite nice, some heather and oak spice along with vanilla, honey, some scented candle wax. Very clean with no rough edges. Perhaps some creamy buttery notes and some peaches and cream to boot plus some late arrival of malt & freshly cut hay. With time in the glass it opens up and becomes rounder and sweeter. The undiluted taste is not very strong for 55.2% and is quite approachable at cask strength. Lots of the fresh cut hay, malt. Malt dust and lashing of dark chocolate along with the oak spice. Really rather nice… The finish is malty with lots of the dark bitter chocolate sprinkled with the malt dust. A late arrival of some brief citrus moments. The creaminess now arrives to round things out and some good moments from the bourbon.

What a cracker of a Tomatin.

Score 87 points.

Longmorn 20yo (52.8%, A. Dewar Rattray, Bourbon, C#30025, 241 Bts., D’26/02/90 B’09/08/10)

The nose is quite citrusy along with a good dollop of malt, powdered white sugar, red cedar and the slightest hint cinnamon. Time in the glass only adds to the collection of aromas and they pull together very nicely. A little melon (Cantaloupe) and some fruit however in the form of dried raisins. The taste is very gentle (at first) with some really good (& strong) bourbon notes, actually very evocative of the American heritage of the cask, all very good. Very sweet and dry from the oak spice. Sweet and bourbon, with a melon chaser. The finish is gentle and the bourbon influence remains right until the last moments which actually is very long. Latter moments of black pepper, green twig and some chewy malt.

The bourbon is amazingly evident but with the melon and malt is a seductive combination.

Score 86 points

Glen Keith 17yo (59.7%, A. Dewar Rattray, Bourbon, C#120548, 189 Bts., D’01/10/92 B’09/08/10)

The nose is of sour candies, sherbet, banana and honey. Full stop. Some water is called for which at first doesn’t offer much of a change. Some patience and hand warming brings out a little cinnamon toast (unbuttered), some creaminess and lots more of the honey. Nice, nice, nice. Not overly complicated but really good none the less. The taste (diluted) is (now) mellowed by the water and it’s all pulled together really well, some black pepper and some good oak moment (spicy rather than leather and tobacco) but not over doing it. A dusty of the cinnamon adds to the picture. The taste undiluted is almost varnishy and quite aggressive. Banana and tobacco. The finish is quite peppery (surprisingly) and it’s straight as an arrow towing all the other tastes along with it.

Water offers a different dimension and adds some sweetness. It’s much better with the water.

Score 85 points

Glen Garioch 20yo (56%, A. Dewar Rattray, Bourbon, C#5878, 278 Bts., D’07/09/90 B’09/08/10)

Mildly aggressive on the nose leather, tobacco and Oxo right out of the gate, fermenting wash, slightly industrial along with some herbs and fermenting fruit. Nutmeg, most definitely lots of characteristics from the ‘wood’ side of the flavour wheel. Time in the glass brings out some good malt. With water it’s much the same except with the addition of some dusty malt. The undiluted taste is very strong with the leather and tobacco very evident but now with a really good sweetness as well as a very syrupy mouth feel. Very spicy. With water if really opens up and some added sweetness and honey notes are quite welcome but it’s still a very active collection of tastes that work well together. The finish is clean along with some banana and some malt, the leather and tobacco play second fiddle now. After a few minutes some good malt emerges, the finish does not fall apart and lasts a lengthy period of time. The added water brings out some really good malt.

Score 84 points

 Caol Ila 30yo (58.8%, A. Dewar Rattray, Bourbon, C#4679, 157 Bts., D’15/05/80 B’09/08/10)

Very dry and citrusy on the nose with some peat smoke but it is certainly not the predominant characteristic. Sweet warm oranges, brine, light varnish. Very restrained despite the high ABV of 58.8%. The taste is really very good, with loads of Grade A flavour and now suddenly the 58.8% becomes evident; time to beat a hasty retreat and try this with some water. The addition of water does the trick however the peat smoke really takes a back seat to the sweetness of the citrus (think of those oranges) and the dryness from the oak spice. Water naturally tames it some what but adds to the experience and improves it. The finish is very, very long and filled with all sorts of peat characteristics; liquorice, coal smoke, iodine, pipe smoke and sweet pipe tobacco before it’s lit (think of it in the bag). Chewy malt in there at the tail end of the experience.

An excellent dram and it’s worked out rather well.

Score 88 points

Laphroaig 13yo (58%, A. Dewar Rattray, Bourbon/Sherry, C#3329, 307 Bts., D’28/04/97 B’09/08/10)

Some really nice peat smoke on the nose and many, many aggressively toasted items come to mind however there are some ‘green’ moments lurking in the mix. Some juniper and cedar, some hints of sea breeze are also present but so is the peat smoke. Some richness like a really good beef broth only adds to the aromas. Some creamy moments also. The undiluted taste is redolent in fiery peat smoke, lashings and lashing of it followed by the creaminess and then Fry’s cocoa powder and the mouth feel is dry but not overly so. Some tinges of juniper and the other bit of lumber cedar. A little water rounds out the peat smoke and adds in a dimension of coal smoke and now some sweetness. Loads of malt in the finish and again quite dry with more of the cocoa, some good moments of citrus bitter but nothing so much as to make you squint. Deep burnt embers after 10 minutes along with loads of malt.

Quite excellent with or without water.

Score 86 points

Strathmill 18yo (55.9%, A. Dewar Rattray, Bourbon, C#4123, 171 Bts., D’07/10/91 B’09/08/10 (Bottled ay 46%)

Please note this example was bottled at 46% and not 55.9% as per this sample. The undiluted nose shows pears, malt, sugar dusted short bread and some tinned fruit salad. There is also some good oak spice. The taste without water is vibrant, slightly aggressive with some varnish, tobacco, cedar and quite dry in the mouth. With water it naturally is rounder and sweeter showing some really good moments. The finish is cocoa powder (at first) and then it opens to reveal some more of the pears and tobacco (unlit and quite possibly before it was cured). It’s very big in the mouth and has later moments of subtle pineapple.

At 55.9% it needs water so at 46% it most likely just right…

Score 81 points

Aberlour 14yo (56.4% A. Dewar Rattray, Bourbon, C#90081, 368 Bts., D’15/02/96 B’09/08/10 (Bottled ay 46%)

Please note this example was bottled at 46% and not 56.4% as per this sample. On the nose it’s very clean (and the palest of all the samples) slightly fragrant but very closed. Still there is some quite pleasant honeyed & hints of black pepper. Time for a little water; now some dusty malt, some good honey (with some hints of flowers in it) but still very narrow in definition. After 5 minutes rest it sweeter and rounder. On the taste it’s much like the nose with water; some really good  sweetness (much like a really good hard candy), dusty malt and honey. Perhaps a little oak spice and some grapefruit to jolly things along and to make it interesting but just a little. The finish is a bit of a surprise with some really good malt that has turned slightly dusty (but still sweet and then a little of the oakiness.

All very good and an interesting Aberlour.

Score 82 points

Banff 34yo (44.1%, A. Dewar Rattray, Bourbon, C#3354, 250 Bts., D’12/11/75 B’09/08/10

A very aged Banff which shows some fantastic old sweetness on the nose and very ‘antique’ which translates into lots good toffeed notes, some really nice barley plus some good influence  form the cask (but not over whelming). Hints of coffee and cocoa. Orange and apricot. All very pleasing and warming. Delightful. The taste is syrupy and very much show the orange and apricots and some good dryness along with some black pepper and toffee; all in all a heady combination that is very, very pleasing. Very rich and redolent. Quite sensational. The cocoa and the coffee (more cocoa than coffee now) are also along for the ride. The finish has some quick moments of juniper, some cedar plank and the other descriptors. The dryness is once again not over whelming but nicely in balance. It holds together very well and for a long time.

What a great dram!

Score 91 points

Visit A. Dewar Rattray at www.dewarrattray.com  (Many thanks to Nick White at A. Dewar Rattary and Jonathan at Purple Valley Imports for the excellent samples). 

Isle of Arran ex-Bourbon Cask #94

Another single cask offering from the Isle of Arran distillery and from an ex American bourbon cask (the scotch whisky industry would be very different without American casks…). The undiluted nose shows some really good biscuity malt and it’s very clean and vibrant. Some mild citrus (hints of grapefruit and lemon) along with hints of varnish, a little marzipan, a little pear and apricot. Very complex (the word ‘complex’ is the last refuge of the over whelmed so use it sparingly) along with some good wood notes, some time in the glass opens it up a little. Still for 57.3% is quite gentle. With a little water there is the predictable rounding out of the aromas and some sweetening. The undiluted taste is strong (shock) and very malty with really good moments from the cask influence (both from the former contents and the oak). Sweet and then quite dry right afterwards. Very, very good. With water there is a significant departure from the diluted nose and it improves with the addition of water, a little less aggressive but still has lashings of character. The finish is a continuation of the malt, then the bourbon influence and then the dryness along with the biscuits all in that short order. The finish goes on forever with some good interplay between the malt ad the dryness of the oak.

Another cracker from the Isle of Arran distillery.

$85

Score 88 points

Isle of Arran 'McCulloch' 8yo Cask #772

Isle of Arran 8yo McCulloch (49%, OB, C#772 B’ 01/09/2010)

A single cask bottling only available from Chester Whisky located in Chester, Cheshire in the United Kingdom www.chesterwhisky.com  The colour is a deep red tinge with dark brown highlights (WI rarely comments on the colour of whisky however this is quite pleasignt o the eye). The nose is blasts of really good dried fruit (think of prunes, raisins and cherries), sensational oak spice, warm toffee, sherry and yes, Christmas cake (the really good dark kind aggressively introduced to some really good alcohol) and some citrus. There are also some hints of malt and wet cotton, much like some Springbank single malts. The total effect is quite fantastic. The taste is very fruity in a strong fashion along with some really good spice and the malt and wet cotton. Some good dryness and hints of cocoa powder (unsweetened). It’s all very, very good. The fruit, oak spice and the malt (a little shy at this point), all work very well together to produce a phenomenal combination and a sensational dram. The finish is warming, quite dry and now tobacco and leather notes arrive but nicely intertwined with the sweetness from the fruit. It’s quite long and very consistent.

Buy a bottle or two while they are still available…

£45

Score 90 points

Aberfeldy 21yo (40%, OB, +/-2010)

From a distillery that does not offer too many official bottlings in the line up but appreciated by many none the less. The nose offers delicate fruit and oak spice, a gentle combination that is very pleasing. The fruit is in the form of marmalade and fruit leather (dried minced fruit and therefore concentrated some what). Again all very pleasing. A little bit of cocoa powder floating around in the back ground. The taste is quite dry and is represented from the characteristics from the oak side of the house; oak spice and cocoa (again), some citrus, brandy, unlit Virginia tobacco and a little chocolate malt towards the end. The finish is very much from the oak side of the house and is quite dry but also with some nice sweetness and a little citrus. The fruit leather again and a surprisingly long finish for such a whisky that presents as being quite gentle at first. At the tail end some really good malt moments.

Not a step wrong from beginning to end.

$150 in some markets

Score

88 points

Company History

Mr. Robert W. Duthie was the nephew of William Cadenhead, and ran William Cadenhead Ltd from 1904 until his untimely death in 1931. Mr. Duthie was also the person most responsible for building the reputation of William Cadenhead Ltd as a bottler of single malts and rum.

Duthies is a new range from Cadenhead’s that are all bottled at 46% and non chill filtered. They are all single malts but not necessarily single cask bottlings.

The old Classic regions (50% vol.) have been replaced by the Duthies Regions series that are bottled at 46% and are non chill filtered. The regions are all Vatted Malts, also known as Blended Malt whiskies.

The firm of William Cadenhead Ltd, Wine and Spirit Merchants, was founded in 1842 and is Scotland’s oldest independent bottler. The company was in the ownership of the same family until taken over by J & A Mitchell & Co.Ltd in 1972, the proprietors of Springbank distillery.
 
The early days

For 130 years prior to this, the firm of William Cadenhead Ltd traded from the same premises in the Netherkirkgate, Aberdeen. It was what subsequently became number 47 that Mr George Duncan established himself as a vintner and distillery agent. The business prospered and in little over 10 years he was joined by his brother-in-law Mr. William Cadenhead. In 1858 Mr. Duncan died following a short illness. William Cadenhead acquired the business and changed the trading name to that of his own. Whilst not much is known of George Duncan, a great deal is on record about his brother-in-law. It must be said that this is not because of his distinction as a vintner but because he was a local poet of renown throughout the Victorian era. Born in 1819, he began working at an early age in a small thread factory where he gained a great deal of respect from his employer. From there he became an overseer in the yarn sorting department of Maberly & Co at their Broadford works, now Richards PLC. About 1853 he left the company and joined his brother-in-law as traveller for Cadenhead’s until Duncan’s death in 1858 where he acquired the business. Apart from his enviable reputation as a poet, he became a prominent citizen taking part in all aspects of local affairs during his long life.

Acquiring a worldwide reputation..

Early on Sunday morning, 11 December 1904 William Cadenhead died. He was succeeded in the business of Wine and Spirit Merchants at 47 Netherkirkgate by his nephew Robert W. Duthie. He was a quiet unassuming man, unlike his uncle, but developed what the firm became most famous for, namely single malt Scotch whisky and Demerara Rum. He advertised extensively on the back of buses, theatre curtains, concert programmes and in much else under the slogan ‘By test the Best’. In addition Mr Duthie developed Cadenhead’s brand whiskies, the de-luxe blend Putachieside and the more plebeian name The Heilanman.

Difficult times

In 1931 in the depth of the depression, the business of William Cadenhead was not in good shape financially. Mr. Duthie was on his way to a meeting with his bank manager when he was unfortunately run over by a tram car whilst crossing the street. Duthie was a batchelor but left two sisters who knew nothing about the Wine and Spirit trade but were determined that the name of William Cadenhead should survive. Responsibility was handed over to a long term employee, Miss Ann Oliver, an eccentric lady who ran the business exactly as she wanted, refusing to move with the times. However, administration was lax and several bad decisions were made during this time forcing Ms Oliver to retire and sell the business.

The turning point

Both the bonded and duty paid warehouses were full from the roof to the cellars of stock, the value of which no-one knew nor for which there were any records. In the end Christie’s who had liquidated considerable stocks of rum were contacted. The result was a two-day sale of the entire stock and was at that date the largest sale of wines and spirits ever held in Great Britain. The sale took place in London on 3rd and 4th of October 1972 and although there were many bargains, on the whole it was most successful and contrary to expectations it resulted in a six figure surplus over liabilities for the firm.

The present day

Thereafter the goodwill, premises etc. of the firm William Cadenhead were sold to J & A Mitchell & Co Ltd., proprietors of Springbank Distillery, one of Scotland’s oldest distilleries still owned by descendants of its founder. The name of Cadenhead is now a household name in the whisky world, and the present owners have expanded the Cadenhead business whilst still keeping the goals and traditional methods the firm began with in 1842.

Whisky Intelligence Tasting Notes of Duthies Scotch Whiskies

Duthies 9yo Hazelburn

Hazelburn 9yo (46%, Duthies, Sherry, 634 Bts., +/-2010)

Triple distilled and unpeated  from Springbank distillery. The nose is really very, very good. Crème brulèe, brown sugar, light oak spice, the characteristic Springbank notes and loads of dessert wine notes and first class malt. Honey, toffee and some slight fragrant notes in the form heather & a tinge of grape fruit. Also some Sumatran cinnamon, light cold unsweetened black tea and damp clean cotton. All very heady and work together like a dream. With time in the glass it simply improves. The taste is almost a mirror image of the aromas however the crème brulèe, toffee, cold unsweetened black tea, malt and clean damp cotton are more in evidence and take center stage. It’s really quite excellent whisky. Impressive.  The finish is malty and filled with oak spice and it’s all very active and once again very good. Still sensational with loads of flavour, the constituent parts hang together like they have been bonded by a super magnet. More of the malt and very long.

If it’s worth saying once it’s worth saying again; sensational. A delight and a lovely dram.

$85

Score 90 points

Longrow 9yo (46%, Duthies, Sherry, 738 Bts., +/- 2011)

Longrow is distilled at Springbank distillery and is their more peated product and distilled twice (Springbank is distilled 2.5 times and is lightly peated). The nose is very much of smoked bacon and some good malt along with some very good fragrant notes. Vanilla and some Marmite and cow shed in the back ground. Bugger.  The taste is quite frankly sulphured. Evidence of some nice notes in there but lots of citrus (lemon), hugely mouth sucking dry and the Marmite but thankfully the cow shed is much muted. Some really good dark chocolate struggles for attention but it’s an up hill battle. The finish is refreshingly malty at first but then the funky sulphur takes over and some rotten eggs make an appearance. The extremely bitter after taste is really quite dire.

Bugger. Bugger. Bugger.

$74

Score 54 points 

Duthies Ledaig 13yo

Ledaig 13yo (46%, Duthies, 660 Bts., +/-2010)

Ledaig is the peated product of from Tobermory distillery. Deep coal smoke and peat smoke on the nose followed by some really good malt along with barley dust, herbs and finally some raw pizza dough. But always present is some really good peat smoke and with a few minutes in the glass it changes from deep coal smoke to a simpler variant; peat smoke, lemon and some oak spice moments. The taste is malty at first and then pow! The coal smoke and peat reek come blasting forward along with some excellent dark chocolate dryness and some latter moments of cocoa. The peat is quite strong and this would give many Islay a run for their money. Very tasty, a really good combo of the peat and the malt. Tobermory firing on all cylinders here. The finish is very malty followed by the ever present peat smoke. Very clean but full of flavour, continues on for eons and hold together very nicely. Does not descend into chaotic bitterness.

Well done Tobermory (& Duthies for selecting this sample).

$80

87 points

Duthies Bowmore 17yo

Bowmore 17yo (46%, Duthies, 573 Bts., +/- 2010)

The nose is very green (malt dust, fresh hay, cut grass etcetera) and then some with some malt and then some good peat smoke arriving at the last possible moment. Some time in the glass and the sample settles down and green notes are over taken by some good malt and the peat smoke. The taste is a departure some what from the nose, good malt and the now ever present peat smoke and the green notes are muted and in the back ground as a welcome accompaniment. Also some pleasant oak spice and dryness round things out. The peat smoke, after 17 years, is not overly aggressive however it is there to be counted.  A good balance of the peat smoke and the other flavours. The finish is malty, malty and then after a short while the peat smoke returns. Now it is mouth smackingly good with some really good deep peat smoke as a follow up characteristic. A sensational, warming finish that goes on for an extreme amount of time. Quite dry towards the tail end (many, many minutes into the journey).

A really good Bowmore, very enjoyable.

 $91

Score 85 points

Duthies 19yo longmorn

Longmorn 19yo (46%, Duthies, 506 Bts., +/-2010)

The nose is gentle, clean with some really good notes of malt and brown sugar. A little hand warming brings out some fragrance with some honey (or brown sugar) aromas. Very elegant and the fragrance presents as heather and roses however these are not over whelming or dominant but a welcome addition to the family (a not so subtle royal wedding reference).  The taste is somewhat a departure from the nose in that it’s leather and tobacco (quite strong) followed by the fragrant notes of heather and rose with a hint of juniper and then a quick showing of malt and some oak spice. Quite good in fact. The finish is mildly citrus, lots of dark chocolate and the afore mentioned leather and tobacco and they all work quite well together. A long finish that turns slightly ‘green’ malt bitter at the last possible moment.

A complicated multi faceted sample but very tasty and enjoyable.

$97

Score 86 points

Duthies 20yo Auchroisk

Auchroisk 20yo (46%, Duthies, 714 Bts., +/-2010)

On the nose, well, it’s a little different. It presents with some good notes (barley, fruit and vanilla) however there is a briny Marmite characteristic that is mildly off putting. Further examination reveals marmalade, hessian. The taste is very malty and very dry, loads of wood notes along with sour candies and malt (slightly green) and again the Marmite notes. A real tussle between the Marmite notes which detract and the other good notes which are a real plus. The ever so slightest hint of the cow pasture which naturally is slightly off putting as well. The finish is very malty and all is good until the cow pasture and Marmite arrive to spoil the party. Damn. However the finish does recover some what but the pleasant notes struggle against the others….

A challenge and a pity because there are some really good moments in the mix. Face the sad fact that it’s tainted by sulphur…

Score 64 points

$108

Whisky Intelligence has had the pleasure of tasting many Duthies bottlings however the delivery to the market place of the two sulphur tainted single malts as reviewed today is a customer service failure.

Bowmore 36yo 1972 (45.4%, Signatory, C#3890, 540 Bts., +/-2009)

An aged Bowmore from the famed Islay distillery. On the nose there is an immediate waft of peat smoke and sherry however the combination does offer some calming influence on the peat smoke. The two together are a sublime combination evoking memories of glistening Christmas cake and sherry wine while the oak influence presents as some really good dark chocolate and a lumber yard strewn with wood chips. Very, very rich and quite an excellent collection of aromas. The taste is a sensational facsimile of the nose with some really good black pepper thrown into the mix and some dryness however the heady combination of peat smoke and sherry are a success story. Late hint of coal smoke and some really good sweetness in the form of warm Lychee (right off the tree) and Bing cherries in syrup. The finish is slightly austere and dry but then the chocolate and the peat smoke come rushing in quickly followed but some oak spice. An excellent finish here, all points of the compass represented.

Many thanks to Andrew Ferguson of Kensington Wine Mart Calgary for the sample, Andrew describes this whisky as the poor man’s Black Bowmore and fault cannot be found with this description.

Score 93 points

$635

Isle of Jura 18yo (40%, OB, +/-2010)

Matured in a combination of American white oak and Oloroso sherry casks. The nose show some green, slightly solvent notes followed by some good malt along with apricot, heather and roses. Palm olive sap, furniture polish and brown sugar., a whiff of the farm yard. A little hand warming helps and brings out some welcome richness. The taste is quite good, vanilla, some caramel, a good dollop of malt and lots of notes from the oak side of the house along with the welcome sherry. Some light varnish, cinnamon and short bread however the sherry notes bind things together nicely. Mandarin orange. The finish is Hessian cloth, the Mandarin orange, some really good malt and short bread (light on the butter) and lots of happiness. Quite a long finish, mildly extravagant and pleasing. Later moments of malt and none of the industrial. After a few minutes a good moment or two of dark unsweetened bitter chocolate.

A bit of a tussle here and there but it all comes together nicely in the end.

Score 79 points

$67

From www.edradour.co.uk  Edradour is the smallest whisky distillery in Scotland; possibly the smallest legal distillery of any kind in the World. John Reid and his two assistants hand-craft Edradour without automation, using skills handed down through generations. Edradour produces just twelve casks of whisky a week during production times. This is then laid down to mature for at least 10 years until the whisky reaches the peak quality. (Whisky Intelligence does find it a little odd that there is so little mention of their actual whisky on the website “The place, the story, the craft, enjoy.” But no mention of the whisky… an opportunity wasted one is forced to conclude. Perhaps they feel their whisky speaks for it self.) 

Edradour 10yo (40%, OB, +/-2010)

The nose is pleasant and pleasantly zesty with loads of fruit notes (cherries, lemon, apricots) along with some good oak spice in the back ground. Some slight hints of fragrance (heather and roses or even pot-pourri) but this is just in the back ground and not very evident. All good so far. The taste is of cereals and tinned fruit cocktail with the heather, roses and pot-pourri making a stronger showing. Much like 24 hours after having your mouth washed out with soap. Much like but not like if you take the meaning. Still is has lots of happy moments. The finish shows some really good malt which makes a strong showing and some really solid moments and it’s actually quite long.

A decent malt that shows some promise.

78 points

$77

Edradour “Straight from the Cask” Portwood Finish 11yo (55.8%, OB, +/-2010)

The nose is well, strong with shades of Hessian, lashings of port and lots of other aromas from the ‘oak’ side of the house like nutmeg, furniture polish and lumber yard.  Also hints of Marmite, card board and straw. Things settle down with some time in the glass. The taste is quite pleasant at first and then becomes maple sweet quite quickly which is all very good. Later moments of extreme dryness and hugely vibrant. Hints of the pot-pourri, heather and roses which become more than hints after a while but the high alcohol and the port do a credible job of masking this. The finish is slightly different with some of the cardboard and Hessian returning, all very active and complex, a varied amount of activity. It’s long and decent, not a bad finish. Late malt arrival which is welcome.

Mildly confused but still a decent dram, the cask strength aids the whole picture.

Score 80 points

$89

Edradour Ballechin #2 Madeira Matured (46%, OB, +/-2010)

Oh my, this is VERY peated on the nose and it’s all very nice. The peat smoke is quite dominant, not much else is daring to show a face. Still this should not be construed as a complaint. There’s some traces of vanilla and old musical instruments but they are faint murmurs. Sort of an 8yo Signatory Unchillfiltered (UCF) Laphroaig. The taste is both peated and malty with some really good moments of Islay in the mix and it presents like a cask strength, all very nice. The PPM on this must be quite high. The Edradour character has been some what obliterated by the cluster bomb of peat smoke. Again no complaints since it’s really nice whisky. The finish is malty and again the peat smoke is very dominate. Talking this into consideration the finish is unsurprisingly very long and contains lashing so f peat smoke.

Whoa! What a great dram, could be from Islay. High praise indeed.

Score 85 points

$106

Edradour 12yo Caledonia (46%, OB, +/-2010)

The nose is creamy along with some crème brulèe, a very, very nice nose at first blush and a departure from some of the other Edradour and with time in the glass it only improves. The taste is once again different from the previous expressions and quite nice, verging on very nice. A solid highland dram with lots of solid flavours and gone are the floral notes of other Edradour samples (well, not entirely, but now they add to the whole picture). Some moments of leather and tobacco swirled in with the crème brulèe along with some sweet malt. All in a really good solid dram. The finish is malty, creamy and vibrant, Very long and at the tail end the leather and tobacco reappear.

Edradour have done it, a sensational dram. Must buy a bottle NOW!

Score 88 points.

$94

Edradour 13yo 1997 (56.4%, OB, C#185, +/- 2010)

On the nose there’s a strong presence of alcohol (not a shock after all!) and lashings of fruit and wet cotton, the fruit in the form of rich Christmas fruit cake, warm marmalade and raisins. A extremely nice collection of aromas that compliment each other very well. Perhaps some good fry cocoa powder in the mix also. The taste is strong and very fruity however there is a good showing of some raw unlit tobacco along with the afore mentioned fruit and cake as well as some oak spice and loads of the cocoa powder. A tinge of the Edradour floral notes but not so much as to cause alarm and demand a quick shut down to the whole show. Very dry in the mouth. The finish is a 90 degree turn to malt along with the cocoa powder (unsweetened) and then the oak spice dryness takes over for the remainder of the trip.

What an excellent Edradour! Many thanks to Andrew Freguson at Kensington Wine Mart in Calgary for the sample.

Score 89 points

$130

Edradour 24yo (50.7%, OB, PX Sherry, C#09/151, +/-2010)

Floral (or perhaps some green malt) and sherry on the nose, tinned fruit cocktail, banana along with hints of black currents and some bees wax in the back ground perhaps, slight restrained and some definite stabs at elegance. With time in the glass some great moments of brown sugar arrive which ties everything together quite nicely. The taste is very gentle (much like a 40%) but still delivers the flavour profile and is pretty much a mirror image of the now however with some added dramatic oak spice and vibrancy to jolly things along. Late arrival of some chocolate (however like those fancy ‘boutique’ chocolates made with Elder flower or such but still chocolate despite the pretence). Things have worked out rather well in the taste department. The finish is very sherried, a quick flash of the floral and then into some really great moments of dryness along with the dark unsweetened chocolate. Raisins, very nice…

Once again what an excellent Edradour! It would be a real treat of it were peated! Many thanks to Andrew Freguson at Kensington Wine Mart in Calgary for the sample.

Score 89 points

$200

Johnnie Walker Black Label 12yo Blended Scotch Whisky (40%, OB, -+/1 2010)

One the nose it’s some what clean and restrained with some hints of some smoke and a little time hand warming brings out further aromas one often associates with blends, quite distinctive; grains and malt. After some time in the glass some honey notes emerge however while it’s good it’s a little restrained. The perils of 40% ABV versus 46% ABV one is forced to conclude. The taste is as one would expect from Johnnie Walker Black Label, some really good grains and some peat smoke, really lovely. Big and vibrant. The finish is a continuation of the taste, the vibrancy stays put for the whole ride, lots going on and very good.

Sometimes you just want to have a quiet whisky and not think about it too much; Johnnie Walker Black Label is such a whisky. The tipple of the author Christopher Kitchens, by the case allegedly.

$50

Score 87 points

JOHNNIE WALKER DOUBLE BLACK BLENDED SCOTCH WHISKY (40%, OB, +/- 2010)

Much bigger on the nose when compared to the Black Label 12yo however it presents many of the same aromas, but just ‘bigger’. It noses as if it has a slightly higher malt content, still it’s all very nice. The taste is gentle at first and then there’s some malt and grain (but more malt) and then some gentle peat smoke arrives. Very mature and grown up but certainly not over the top with the Islay influence, it’s still quite restrained but present. Good balance. A little more rounded flavour profile than the 12yo offering a slightly sweeter taste. Certainly not a dramatically higher peat smoke delivery. Again the finish follows through from the nose and taste and the malt, grain, sweetness and gentle peat smoke are all present.

Score 86 points.

€35

Many thanks to Duncan for the sample of Johnnie Walker Double Black.

The 12yo presents as a blend and a very good one at that. The Double Black is kissing cousins nearer to a malt however the peat smoke is not significantly bigger but it all melds together nicely. Still the Double Black is a very good dram but the 12yo has the slight edge with the vibrancy. For those that want a blend the 12yo and for those that lean towards malt then the Double Black.

More on the Johnnie Walker Double Black at; https://www.whiskyintelligence.com/2010/10/diageo-launches-johnnie-walker%c2%ae-double-black%e2%84%a2-blended-scotch-whisky-scotch-whisky-news/ 

Mackinlay’s Rare Old Highland Malt (Shackleton, 47.3%)

The eagerly anticipated recreation of the whisky that Shackleton took on his journey to the Antarctic. The nose is honey with a waft of peat smoke in the back ground, there also some green notes (not to imply immaturity) but heather or roses. A really nice interplay between the peat smoke, the honey notes and the heather and rose although after a few minutes in the glass the ‘greener’ notes fade to the back ground. It’s all very good and the honey is more defined now, like warm honey comb. Vanilla bean and toffee. All very rich and very good. The taste is actually a little strong and the heather and rose is more to the fore now with the peat smoke and the honey taking a back seat. Some good moments of leather and tobacco along with some cereals, perhaps some Weetabix. Oak spice also. The finish is as the taste but a shade different with more of the heather and rose followed by the leather and tobacco. It’s quite long and very active, not a quite fade into the distance here. Very malty and more of the Weetabix after a while

This is very good whisky, if it tastes anything like the original it’s a wonder they ever left the hut let alone leave 3 cases unconsumed. Many thanks to the kind person at W&M who forwarded the sample to Whisky Intelligence.

£100 with £5 of each sale going to the Antarctic Heritage Trust.

Score 88 points