Ralfy Hard at Work
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EPISODE 228: The Scotch Whisky industry is operating under new rules for the first time in 20 years. A complete re-write of the Scotch Whisky Law went into effect this week, and David Williamson of the Scotch Whisky Association explains the new law in this episode. In the news, if someone offers you a bottle of Tactical Nuclear Penguin beer, sip it…don’t chug it…along with Bonham’s auction results from Hong Kong…Power’s sends a new Irish whiskey to the US, and tasting notes for something spicy, something blue and something bluegrass……..
Listen to episode #228 at http://www.whiskycast.com/
Something amusing for Malt Maniac Konstantin Grigoriadis;
Apparently this t -shirt was made by a Greek whisky enthusiast…….
Whisky Intelligence has reproduced (with permission) The Gauntleys Whisky Newsletter for April 2007; a look back in time. The author, Chris Goodrum, has some excellent insights into the whiskies being commented on which makes for excellent reading on a Sunday. Enjoy!
Dear Whisky Customers
Bottling it young ? Is this the future for the Industry?
So the future of whisky in general is looking pretty peachy. The far east insatiable appetite for a wee dram seems to be on an explanation upward curve. Diageo has announced a £80 billion investment in boosting it malt and grain production along with plans for a new distillery, with the preferred location being Roseisle on Speyside, while the Cameronbridge grain distillery in Fife will be expanded. Planning consents for the Roseisle site are being sought, with construction expected to begin this year. It is hoped the distillery will open in 2009 with the first mature spirit available from 2012.
Even Bruichladdich has announced plans for expansion. Now the company is to apply for planning permission to recreate Port Charlotte Distillery, at a cost of £3-4million, inside the shell of the original warehouse buildings, which are still intact. The new full-sized distillery, which will benefit from a separate visitor centre, will have a maximum capacity of 1.2million litres and will be producing Port Charlotte brand whisky. The distilling equipment for the Port Charlotte project has already been acquired from the now closed Inverleven Distillery, Dumbarton. The entire single malt plant was dismantled by a team from Bruichladdich and the machinery was then shipped to the island on barges where it has been in storage, with some parts used for spares. So as Port Charlotte has been distilled at the Bruichladdich since 2001, the new distillery will be in an unenviable position of having an eight-year-old stock on its first day of production.
So why isn’t everyone happy? Well it’s like this. Speaking to a few of the Independents in the industry I asked the usual ‘What’s new?’ question, and the answer was less than enthusiastic. It would appear that the industry as a whole is a bit jittery and worried about not having enough stock of aged spirits to supply a rising demand, thus for the Independents there is very little whisky of age available on the market. This leaves them with a bit of a problem. Do they: a) Bottle whatever they can get their hands on, irrespective of the quality, b) Bottle good quality younger malt that is available but nowhere near ready for bottling – and we all know that both of those things happen. So as Gordon Wright said? We’ll all be drinking wood finished Vodka before long!?
But being serious for a moment, this is bad news for the Independent bottling companies that do not have extensive warehousing facilities like say Gordon & MacPhail or for younger companies that do not have the contacts within the industry. Will we soon start to see and end of the reasonably priced, esoteric bottlings that these companies release, and will be held to ransom by the big boys like Diageo and LVMH who will be content to ‘whoops happen find’ another few casks of ancient whatever and slap a ludicrous price tag on it, putting it way out of the reach of us ordinary mortals. Mentioning no names but do you ever get the feeling you’ve being fleeced??, surely I can’t be the only one who feels this way. I may not be the only one in the industry to feel this way, but how many others are saying it? I wonder why?
So while I’m on my soap box, time to have a dig at the whisky magazine, why you ask. Well it awards time once again and who took the prize for single retailer of the year, Berry Bro’s with Gordon & MacPhail, Loch Fine Whiskies and The Wine shop at Leek getting a nomination. Now I’ve absolutely no problem with Berry’s winning at all, it’s not a case of sour grapes, but this is what they wrote about them ? Personal service is paramount when you walk through the doors and the helpful and knowledgeable staff are on hand to guide you through the dazzling array of whiskies? No, no problem with that, but what makes them better than us? Is it because they all bottle their own range of single malts, or is it because I’m just a tad too outspoken?
Well Rob Allanson (Mr Editor) if you are reading this then maybe you can enlighten me. I mean it’s not like I haven’t invited them to take a look at what we are doing. Now I can hear what you are thinking ?You just want a gong, or to get your face in the magazine, can’t you just be satisfied with knowing that you are doing a good job and just sell me some whisky!?. Well yes I can take a certain amount of satisfaction that I believe that I’m doing a good job and that my views and opinions are regard within the industry, but let’s be honest, we all like to stand on the podium clutching a gong, blubbing conspicuously and thanking all and sundry for their support!
But being serious for a minute, if I don’t make a noise about what we are doing here then who will? Anyway enough of this and onto the reviews.
NEW ALCHEMIST BOTTLINGS
Gordon Wright has been raiding his pension fund. If the truth be told he would have preferred to hang on to the Port Charlotte for a few more years, but like many independents the commercial concerns out weighed this desire. In saying that the Port Charlotte is an exceptionally good spirit, and the reason that it is approachable so young is because he believes that distillers are now concentrating more on the quality of the spirit rather than in terms of quantity of pure alcohol distilled. I think this is very evident from the rash of young bottlings like this, the Ardbeg very young and the Laphraoig quarter cask. I asked him if he had managed to stash some Octomore in his fund, but he replied that the distillery have sold no casks to private individuals, so not even he could get hold of one!
Gordon only bottled two casks of the Port Charlotte, so there isn’t very many bottles of it available, so if you missed out on the PC5 I would grab one whilst you can. In saying that he has a further two casks which may or may not be bottled later this year.
Port Charlotte 5 year old 46% £37.95
Clean, smoky aromas. Very fruity with loads of iodine and Laphroaig-esque peat. Lovely sweet fruit and a touch of cereal. Very much the equal of the Ardbeg still young ? possibly better. Lovely sweet entry, with soft apricot and honeysuckle, a touch of ‘off the still’ cereal with surprisingly gentle Laphroaig-esque peat building to a tangy finish. This is incredibly sweet, not cloying sweet, just fruit sweet with a late salt and coal dust note drifting in. Unlike the distillery bottling this is 100% Bourbon cask and is far closer to the almost new make sample I tried awhile ago.
Springbank 10 year old 46% £37.95
This is a vatting of one third Bourbon cask and two thirds Port cask aged malt. A deep, rich and extremely fruity nose. Candied orange fruit, port notes, spice, sweet bourbon oak and costal notes. Lovely balance with a slight perfumed note, A lot less girly than the Murray McDavid bottling, it develops an earthy/ bog myrtle/ medicinal peat note over time. On the palate it is quiet sweet with creamy red winey fruit (berries), bourbon oak and buckets of salt on the middle. Youthful and intense with coal dust and earthy peat coating the palate. Perfectly integrated, one of the best wine cask matured malts I’ve tasted in a long time.
NEW JOHN McDOUGAL BOTTLINGS
I received three new samples from John, two of which were Macallans. Now John has bottled some very good Macallans over the years, mainly bourbon matured, and these were no exception. The 1991 (15 year old) 57% had all the classic John McDougall signature vanilla oak, but there was just too much of it, it swamped any distillery character and really lacked the finesse of some of his earlier bottlings. The second sample of the same age, but bottled at 50% had a better balance, with lovely sooty, coal dust notes but was incredibly short. I know John will hate me for saying this but these were not his best selection. However all was redeemed by the Linkwood which was a classic, but in my opinion only if drunk neat. Tasting notes follow.
Linkwood 1990 (16 year old) 52.6% £TBC
Clean, crisp grass, citrus lemon, lime and apricot fruit with a touch of menthol. Very rounded, big and fruity with lashings of balanced oak, plus a delicious floral top note. On the palate it is very creamy, a lovely mouth feel with the oak and fruit in perfect harmony. With delicious creamy apricot and white fruits and gentle sweet spices. Yum, this is damn good. Finishes with a slight juniper/ botanical note. A drop of water brings about a dramatic change bringing out lanolin/ wool fat flavours and emphasizing the spices, hence my suggestion to drink neat.
A ROUND UP OF TASTINGS
Kilchoman 63.5%
According to the label this has spent 3 months in sherry cask, not that you would know it. Basically it is new make spirit and it is always interesting to taste new make spirit. If you are interested it is available via their website www.kilchomandistillery.com priced at £4.99 each. It has a strongly peated nose with lots of manure and ‘off the still’ cereal, yet there is a pleasant sweetness to the spirit. On the palate, not surprisingly the ‘off the still’ cereal dominates, and it is not as peaty as the nose would suggest, sweet-ish, slightly oily, at the moment, not surprisingly it is a bit one-dimensional, but it will be interesting to see what a bit of cask influence will do as on first tasting it is quiet unlike any of the other Islay distilleries malts.
Amrut Indian Single Malt 40%
The sales rep was trying to convince me that their 3 year old malt tasted a lot older. ‘A lot of people think it is an aged Spey when tasted blind’ he told me. Now the main reason for bottling it at this young age is a necessity due to the hot weather, which accelerates the maturation time but also robs it of a huge ‘angels share’, so if they left in the cask for longer there would be practically a teaspoon left. So does it taste like an aged Spey? Well on the nose I can see why many would think so, it is very sweet with an almost Bourbon-esque aroma of oily vanillins, old honey, banana custard, toffee and loads of wood. On the palate it is sweet, sweet, sweet! A bit straightforward with soft fruit, vanilla, butter and toffee, along with a late pepper and spice note, yet there is no escaping its sweetness.
Mackmyra Preludium:03 Swedish Single Malt 52%
Another 3 year old. Big, rich and fruity. Banana fritters coated in honey and toffee. Lots of sherry cask evident with manure, marzipan, old lanolin, demerara sugar and banoffi pie! Dry, soft yet intense on the palate, lightly honied, demerara sugar coated sherry fruit. A bit simple, oily with malt, cereal and a slight butter note on the middle. The nose displays a great deal more complexity than the palate, although on this evidence it should be amazing in a few years time.
And finally something with a bit of age!
Ardbeg Arigh Nam Beist 1990 (16 year old) 43% £52.95
Initially slightly soapy aromas of vanilla, linseed oil and mature, crisp smoky citrus fruit, light vegetation and a floral note, followed by a touch of kippers and charred wood. Oily on the palate with soft, gentle peat, seaweed and blood oranges. Lovely depth with an intense, tangy middle of coastal bomfires, roasted meat and a touch of coal tar and soft peat. A long, mellow finale with a touch of liquorice, coffee and a dry, salty finish. A lovely old Ardbeg with a peppery bite!
Dewar Rattray Miltonduff 1980 (26 year old) 48% £67.95
A lovely nose, full of rich orange fruit, tea, vanilla, old honey, floor polish, herbs and sweet oak. Very herbal with leafy fauna and a good maturity. Very dry on the palate, obviously mature with herbal infused fruit, heather, wood and tea, light oil, old honey and floor polish. Surprisingly salty on the finish. It reminds me a of a Guyana rum. A drop of water emphasizes the coffee, orange fruit and floor polish bringing out a floral top note. On the palate it lengthens and softens the dry/ stalky wood tannins and brings out the old honey and maturity. Bottled just at the right time.
Right that’s it for now, apart from wishing you all a Happy Easter.
Orders and comments to the usual place.
Sincerely
Chris Goodrum
Federal Wine & Spirits November 27, 2009
The Federal Wine Black Friday (& Saturday) Sale
The Way It Works:
You need not come to the store!! Order by email or phone.
Prices good til Saturday Midnight only or available stock is sold.
First come, first served.
Some items will not be ready for pickup or shipping until Tuesday.
Call before coming in.
Payment Must be Made with Order
Sale is for Pickup or One Delivery to one location only by Sat Dec 5
Malts
Benromach 10 Y.O. 43% 52.99 46.99 11%
Benromach Madera 45% 69.99 62.99 10%
Benromach 21 Y.O. 43% 129.99 114.99 12%
RoseBank 17 Y.O. 55.3% 129.99 114.99 12%
Speymalt Macallan 37 Y.O. 449.99 399.99 11%
Please pass this on to any friends who are whisky enthusiasts!
Len Rothenberg
Federal Wine & Spirits
Email: info@federalwine.com
Phone: (617) 367-8605
Web: http://www.federalwine.com/
From Whisky Fringe Staff;
Whisky Fringe 2010
IMPORTANT NEWS: tickets for 2010 are NOT going on sale Dec. 1st, as previously stated. New licensing legislation needs to be clarified. Tickets can not be sold until then. Please click ‘more’ below for full details and before calling us in a panic!
WHISKY FRINGE 2010
In September 2009, new licensing regulations came into effect in Scotland increasing the powers of individual local authorities in the control of alcohol within their area. Ultimately this is aimed at reducing alcohol-related problems which is undoubtedly a worthy aim. The down-side from our point of view however is that as the interpretation of the new law is up to the individual local authorities, it is taking time to establish exactly what is and isn’t permitted.
As Whisky Fringe is an unusual event in terms of licensing, there remain various areas of uncertainty as to what we are allowed to do and what are not allowed under the new legislation. Whether we are allowed to include a money-off voucher for purchases at the shop as part of the entry price is one such grey area and it looks unlikely that two-day tickets can be sold for a reduced price compared to the price of two individual day tickets will be permitted. However all of these areas are uncertain with the laws still in their infancy and as such we have had to take the decision that it would be foolish of us to make tickets available for sale as planned eight months in advance of the event.
Whisky Fringe will take place at Mansfield Traquair, Edinburgh on Saturday and Sunday 14th & 15th August 2010. Whilst we are unable to state with certainty the date that tickets will go on sale, it will not be until May 2010 at the earliest. We apologise for this delay, however hope that you understand it is due to circumstances out with our control. We shall email our Newsletter mailing list to advise the date of tickets going on sale in advance as well as posting details on our website.
http://www.royalmilewhiskies.com/category.asp?cat_id=S_WHFR&lkid=10
The Scotch Malt Whisky Society of America has published their extensive Christmas outturn list. Details of the list and how to join the Society can be found at http://www.smwsa.com/members/index.shtml
Looking for Agents!
Regis Whisky Mad is becoming ever more international, particularly with the launch of Whisky Kilt and the increasing demands for overseas consultancy, whisky tours and European whisky presentations.
If you think you have the right credentials and can contribute to the worldwide expansion of Regis Whisky Mad, please get in touch with Regis, who will be happy to see what you can offer to the company.
All presentation work can be carried out in both English and French.
Please contact Regis direct on his mobile on 07985 538 282 or land line at 01259 727 829 or email him at regis@regiswhiskymad.co.uk or regis@whiskykilt.com
Kensington Wine Market’s “SUPER SALE”
This weekend is a tremendous opportunity to stock up on some great whiskies and wines, as we are having our annual “FALL SUPER SALE!” All of our single malts will be 5% off and there are some exceptional deals to be had. I’ve broken them down below, but here are a few teasers:
G & M KWM Glen Grant 1966 – SAVE 20% – This 1966 vintage of Glen Grant Single Malt was bottled exclusively for our store. It was matured 41 years and 10 months in a Refill Sherry Hogshead and has been bottled at a cask strength of 49.4%. The whisky is surprisingly soft and gentle for having spent close to 42 years in an oak cask. But don’t get complacent; the whisky rapidly builds in flavour and complexity. Here is my tasting note: Nose: ripe orchard fruits, citrus, poached apple, sauternes, chocolate orange and gentle spices and moderate hints of sherry. Palate: sweet and gentle with rich spices, and buttery sherry notes; becomes drier, darker and more chocolaty with each sip; traces of raw cocoa and coffee bean. Finish: long and soft with warming sherry notes; drying with soft but firm oak and more hints of citrus. Only 134 numbered bottles are available, with less than half remaining! – Regular $499.99 Save 20%
OMC KWM Port Ellen 25 Year – SAVE 15% – Bottled exclusively for the Kensington Wine Market this bottling of Port Ellen is exceptional. Port Ellen closed in 1983 meaning that with every passing year this whisky gets older, rarer and more expensive. We are thrilled to have acquired our own cask! Our private bottling of Port Ellen was selected from a number of casks belonging to Douglas Laing of Glasgow, Scotland. Matured in a Refill-Sherry Butt 210 bottles of the whisky have been bottled at a cask strength of 54.7%. Distilled in the months before Port Ellen closed its doors forever, our bottling matured 25 years before bottling. The first sip has some heat, but its clean and rolls out into green earthy notes, then sweet honey and finally salty smoke. The second sip is classic Port Ellen, all the taste buds in my mouth are alight with sweet, smoky, earthy, fresh and fruity notes. Towards the back of the palate the smoky-briny take over and lead the charge with some dark chocolate-peat close behind. The third sip is creamier, with buttery-briny-peat; very lovely! This Whisky was the overwhelming favourite in our two Blind Port Ellen tastings this fall! – Regular $249.99 Save 15%
SAVE 7% ON THE FOLLOWING WHISKIES
BenRiach 15Yr Rum Finish – Reg $82.49
BenRiach 15Yr Tawny Port Finish – Reg $82.49
Cragganmore 12Yr – Reg $74.49
Dewar Rattray Laphroaig 18Yr – Reg $172.99 *Exclusively Available in Alberta!
Lagavulin 12Yr Cask Strength – Reg $110.99
Macallan 12Yr – Reg $73.99
Murray McDavid Clynelish – Reg $71.99
Premium Bottlers Braeval 18Yr – Reg $152.99
Premium Bottlers Littlemill 16Yr – Reg $147.49 *Closed Distillery!
Rare Malts Glendullan 26Yr – Reg $208.49
Rare Malts Linkwood 30Yr – Reg $206.98
Springbank 10Yr – Reg $70.49
Suntory Yamazaki 12Yr – Reg $55.49
Talisker Distillers Edition 1993 – Reg $99.99
Johnnie Walker Blue Label – Reg $241.99
Johnnie Walker Gold Label – Reg $91.49
Tullamore Dew 12Yr – Reg $39.49
SAVE 10% ON THE FOLLOWING WHISKIES – Most of These Whiskies are KWM Exclusives
Cadenhead Laphroaig Cask 12Yr Demerara Rum – Reg $83.99
Arran 10Yr 100 Proof – Reg $74.99
BenRiach Arumaticus Fumosus 12Yr – Reg $71.99
BenRiach Herodotus Fumosus 12Yr – Reg $71.99
BenRiach Importanticus Fumosus 12Yr – Reg $71.99
Benromach Latitude 53 Second Release – Reg $ 128.99
Benromach Latitude 57 – Reg $129.49 * Only 1 left!
Bowmore Tempest Cask Strength – Reg $81.99 *ONLY AVAILABLE AT KWM IN CANADA!
Brora 25Yr – Reg $354.99
Bruichladdich Octomore – Reg $152.49
Duthies Auchentoshan 19Yr – Reg $108.49 * Whisky Mag Award Winner!
Duthies Caol Ila 13Yr – Reg $87.49
Duthies Cragganmore 15Yr – Reg $94.99
Duthies Glen Scotia 17Yr – Reg $101.99 * Whisky Mag Award Winner!
Finlaggan Old Islay Reserve – Reg $50.99
Finlaggan Cask Strength – Reg $85.99
G&M Strathisla 40Yr – $339.99 * Incredible value for a 40 year old whisky!
Ledaig 10Yr – Reg $73.99 * Sweet, lightly peated whisky from Tobermory on Mull!
Oban 14Yr – Reg $99.99
Oban Distillers Edition – Reg $143.99
Provenance Glendullan 14Yr – Reg $84.99
Provenance Tamnavulin 12Yr – Reg $73.99
Springbank 1996 KWM Manzanilla Cask – Reg $109.99 * Only 3 left!
SAVE 15% ON – OMC KWM Port Ellen 25Yr – Reg $249.99
SAVE 20% ON – G & M KWM Glen Grant 1966 – Reg $499.99
SALE RULES
All sales are final.
If there is a discrepancy the price in the Point of Sale System will be taken as correct.
Sale price is only valid in store and online. No phone orders will be taken.
Sale price is only valid on in store merchandise.
Visit Kensington at http://www.kensingtonwinemarket.com/
18 November 2009 (Whisky Intelligence is catching up with some posting)
ALL EYES ON THE DALMORE OCULUS AT RECORD-BREAKING BONHAMS WHISKY SALE
The exceptional one-of-a–kind Dalmore Oculus sells for a staggering £27,600 at Bonhams best whisky sale in history
Whisky enthusiasts worldwide raised their glasses to an outstanding result at today’s whisky sale at Bonhams Edinburgh. With over 90% of lots sold, the sale raised an impressive total of £211,518, the best on record in terms of value.
One of the highlights of the sale was the rare and unique Dalmore Oculus, assembled from some of the most exceptional whiskies of the past 140 years. This extraordinary whisky sold for a phenomenal £27,600, against a pre-sale estimate of £15,000 – 20,000, as cheers rung around the sale room. This is the highest price ever paid for a Dalmore whisky, far exceeding any previous expectation.
Other distinguished whiskies on offer included a Black Bowmore-1964 first edition, bottled 1993, beautifully presented in a wooden case, which sold for a sensational £2,100 (estimated £1,500-1,700), whilst the Black Bowmore-1964, final edition, bottled 1995 also reached £2,100 (estimated £1,500-2,000) and the Black Bowmore-1964 first edition, bottled 1993, selling for an equally impressive £2,040 (estimated £1,500-1,700).
Elsewhere, The Macallan-56 year old-1946, officially bottled by hand at The Macallan Distillery exceeded its pre-sale estimate of £1,500-2,000, selling for £1,980.
From the first section of the 3,000-strong Willard S Folsom Collection of Old and Rare Single Malt Whiskies, The Dalmore-50 year old-1926 presented in a splendid ceramic decanter sold for an sizeable £1,920 (estimated £1,500-1,700). Also from this collection, a Macallan Speymalt-1938 toppled pre-sale estimates of £800-1,000, reaching £1,920, whilst a Bowmore Oloroso Wood-38 year old-1964 single malt fetched £1,680 (estimated £1,200-1,400).
Martin Green, Bonhams Whisky Specialist comments: “We are delighted by the results of today’s sale. The atmosphere in the room was electric with much excitement and frenzied bidding for the 583 first-class whiskies of offer. The Dalmore Oculus reached a fantastic sale price, especially in view of the current economic climate.”
For Bonhams enquiries please call +44 131 225 2266 http://www.bonhams.com/
For more information please contact Charlotte Hastings or Rosie Kempson at The Communication Group on 0207 630 1411 or email chastings@thecommunicationgroup.co.uk/ rkempson@thecommunicationgroup.co.uk
For The Dalmore media enquiries please contact:
Eve Robertson / Debbie Byers
3×1 Public Relations
T: 0141 221 0707 / 07974 193 897
E: erobertson@3×1.com / dbyers@3×1.com
NOTES FOR EDITORS
Bonhams, founded in 1793, is one of the world’s oldest and largest auctioneers of fine art and antiques. The present company was formed by the merger in November 2001 of Bonhams & Brooks and Phillips Son and Neale UK. In August 2002, the company acquired Butterfields, the principal firm of auctioneers on the West Coast of America. Today, Bonhams offers more sales than any of its rivals, through two major salerooms in London: New Bond Street, and Knightsbridge, and a further seven throughout the UK. Sales are also held in San Francisco, Los Angeles, New York and Boston in the USA; and Switzerland, France, Monaco, Australia, Hong Kong and Dubai. Bonhams has a worldwide network of offices and regional representatives in 25 countries offering sales advice and valuation services in 50 specialist areas. For a full listing of upcoming sales, plus details of Bonhams specialist departments, go to www.bonhams.com. (January 2009)
