This week Joe Ellis reviews the Bladnoch Connoisseurs Choice 1993 Vintage.
Maureen Robinson has been working in the whisky industry for nearly 40 years
Maureen Robinson is a master blender for Diageo’s whisky team, and is involved in both blended Scotch and single malts, as well as helping to choose the eagerly awaited Special Releases each year. She is also a judge at whisky competitions, and was made a Keeper of the Quaich in 2012. Here, she shares some views on her role:
‘For the first nine years at Diageo, I learned about the science of whisky, then I moved on to working with blends’
‘Seeing something you’ve created is a real thrill’
‘Just now, the thing I really like doing is the Special Releases; it’s such a thrill to find these old whiskies. The idea is to release whiskies from distilleries that are closed, but also to show some experiments from our brands that are unique’
‘Putting a blended whisky together, to me, is like doing a single malt – you have all these flavours coming through. Each of our whiskies has their own character‘
‘How does a new product come about? Normally, we get a brief that we need something new, and I’ll start to think what that could be. I’ll go through lots of samples and mix the whiskies together. Sometimes it might not be how I envisaged it, so then I start playing with different percentages and different woods’
‘As a blender, NAS [Non Age Statement] whiskies open up new horizons. People say NAS means “young whisky”, but it doesn’t – it’s a balance between young and old. I do get a bit annoyed when people dismiss them’
‘Throughout history, there’s always been pressure on whisky stocks, but the current environment now is really healthy’
‘Diageo has a vast stock of whisky; at any one time, it has eight million casks’
‘With blends, sometimes you get it right on the first attempt; sometimes it takes 15!’
NEW TO THE PARTY
Breckenridge Bourbon TPS Private Barrel – This is a first for us at TPS, a Private Barrel Bourbon from Colorado! Breckenridge has gained some solid notoriety in recent years and we couldn’t be happier for having been offered barrel samples from them. It’s full of nice caramel and baking spice notes yet it is wonderfully smooth. If you haven’t yet tried a bourbon from the rocky mountain state, this is an excellent introduction. It’s now open to try at our Spirits Library!
Stalk & Barrel Rye – Canadians take their rye whisky very seriously. This Rye from Stalk & Barrel has now won the 2014 Canadian Whisky Awards ‘Best New Whisky’ and ‘Gold Medal’. It’s aged a minimum of three years, and has all natural color and is non-chill filtered. This is a well-rounded and deliciously sip-able rye.
Mikkeller Spirits! – Yes, you read that correct. Mikkel, one of the biggest names in the beer world, has delved into the spirits game. We have the two whiskies from the Mikkeller Black Series, and each has an initial for the type of cask it was aged in; R for Rum, and O for Oloroso Sherry. There are also two vodkas, one dry hopped with Citra Hops and the other with Simcoe Hops. Rounding out the spirits is a nice botanical gin. We tried, and loved, the Series O Whisky. These are receiving great reviews and are a must for any whisky collector or Mikkel enthusiast.
Reisetbauer Single Malts – Hans Reisetbauer is one of the greatest living distillers in the world, and maybe of all time. He has won accolades for his Eau-de-vies so many times that he was asked to stop entering them into certain competitions so as to make it fair for the rest of the contestants. The barley is all from his personal estate, and the new make is aged in Austrian Chardonnay and Trockenbeerenauslese (intensely rich and dry dessert wine) casks. Simply stated, these are single malt whiskies to rival the quality level achieved by the greats of the reigning king of single malt, Scotland. That being said, expect a rollercoaster ride of new flavors and taste progression that is unlike any Scotch, American, Japanese, or Taiwanese single malt you’ve had.
Blackadder Black Snake No. 5 – This is the newest iteration in the Black Snake lineup, and is a vatted single malt finished in Pedro Ximinez (PX) sherry butts. There is both lightness of fruit and richness from the dessert sherry cask used. As always, Blackadder does not add coloring, nor does it chill filter the whisky.
Amrut Single Malts are Back! – Only the Amrut Single Malt and Fusion were available to order, and we are excited to have them back in stock. To anyone not in the know, these are stellar Single Malt Whiskies from India, and arguably the best India has to offer. To anyone in the know, get here fast because they surely won’t last too long.
Tweeddale 12yr Blended Scotch – This is the third batch of Tweeddale Blended Scotch. The blend is comprised of 18yr old sherry butt aged grain whisky, and eight different single malts between 12 and 21 years old. This is a fantastic blended malt.
Crown Honey – Smooth Canadian Crown Royal with some sweet honey flavor. For all Crown Royal and/or honey lovers, this is a new must try.
www.ralfy.com crosses the Atlantic for Whisky Review 589 – High West Campfire & Four Roses Small Batch Bourbon
Kavalan “Ex-Bourbon Cask #75” K&L Exclusive Cask Strength Single Barrel Taiwanese Single Malt Whisky (750ml) ( $149.99) Taiwan’s Kavalan distillery once faced an uphill battle, selling the quality of their precocious young single malt whisky to a world of skeptics. It didn’t take long, however, to sway the critics. When the Kavalan Vinho Barrique expression won “best in the world” at the 2015 World Whisky Awards the entire planet took notice and Kavalan’s reputation received an instant shot in the arm. Here at K&L we are lucky to have a close relationship to both the company and to the master distiller Ian Chang, who hosted our group in Taiwan back in 2014. Due to the close bond that was formed between K&L and Kavalan, we were allowed to select three single barrel casks to be bottled exclusively for our store; all three of which were ex-Bourbon barrels. Because of Taiwan’s subtropical climate and intense humidity, the whisky ages more rapidly and soaks up the flavor of each cask with intense concentration. In all three cases, the Bourbon flavor comes through on the whisky almost more than the single malt character. Barrel #75A is another beast of a whisky at 58.6% ABV, but it’s the richest of the three by a hair with subtle floral elements that dance atop the intense oak flavor. There’s more maltiness apparent on the palate than the others and there’s a tropical coconut note on the finish that comes from the sweetness of the oak. It still needs water, however, as the high proof masks much of the complexity when taken neat. It’s a whisky to unlock slowly and methodically.
K&L Wine Merchants
http://www.klwines.com
Phone: 877-KLWines (toll free 877-559-4637)
Email: wine@klwines.com
San Francisco, Redwood City, Hollywood CA
Whisky & Golf, Scotland in June
We enjoyed a tour with two really fun Californians here in sunny Scotland. Matt and his dad Tom worked with us to design this whisky and golf tour, boy where they lucky with the Scottish weather! They didnee see any rain in 7 days! They played golf and drammed great Scottish whisky in the 70 degree heat!
I (Paul) picked them up at Edinburgh airport, driving directly to Gleneagles for teas/coffees and a look around this famous golf resort. A hot day. From here via Perth to Broughty Ferry where we picked up our glamour (Liz) partner. A drive along the coast to Arbroath for a smokey and smoked salmon at the harbour followed, mmmmmmmmmmm. Returning towards the Ferry we called in at Carnoustie golf club – where they play in a day or two. Also dropped by Monifieth golf club and then to the hotel, drop off luggage and chil out with a drink in the bar. We left them alone for the remainder of the day/night after a long flight. Liz and myself did some whisky research in the Ferry with her pal Lynn.
Day 2. Playing around with the locals; we had arranged for Dennis and Les to make a four ball at Monifieth golf course, you have to laugh, the first ball hit by Matt in Scotland, another golfer took it by error! No quite the same as Tom Watson eh? Tom Watson: “My relationship with Scotland got off to a wonderful start at Carnoustie,” he recalls. “We stayed at a little house in Monifieth (in Angus]. The whole week the neighbours were very respectful of our privacy. Then on the last day they couldn’t contain themselves any longer. That morning the little girl from next door knocked on our front door and said: ‘Here, this is for good luck.’ I could barely understand her accent. But she gave me white heather wrapped in aluminium foil. I put it in my bag and, sure enough, I won. My love affair with the Scottish people had begun. Although I’m a Yank and always will be, I clearly love being in Scotland. I love them because they are so polite and they ask you for things in the right way”. TOM has had a charmed golfing life in Scotland, winning four of his five Open championships all three of his seniors Opens. He has won on five of the links here. It all began in 1975 when he beat Jack Newton in a play-off to take the Claret Jug at Muirfield. Our two Californian guests also played their first course in Scotland at Monefieth, a beautiful sunny afternoon just up the road from Broughty Ferry where we had them staying for 3 nights. As Matt said to Dennis, “Dennis, Tom Watson. Unbelievable to hear that his first hole in Scotland was at Monifieth! Dad and I really enjoyed the links we played – we thoroughly enjoyed the experience at Monifieth with you and Len, it’s one we soon won’t forget. Fantastic course and great company. You’re a lucky man to call that your local course.” Best, Matt. We all shared drams and grub at the Ship in the Ferry that night. Nice to get our guests loosen up and come out a wee bit with a dram or 7.
Day 3. Started with a drive to Kingsbarns golf club, they want to return and play this course at another time, it’s that good. Back to St Andrews, a quick tour and lunch at the Jigger Inn, a walk around the “The Himalayas” putting green, where anyone and everyone can enjoy the experience of St Andrews golf, with absolutely no experience needed! The course is owned by St Andrews Ladies’ Putting Club, but open to the public. The Himalayas costs £2 per round (£1 for senior citizens). Then up to Carnoustie for a round of golf, we left them there once on the tee, coming back to meet them and a drink at the 19th. Good day again. This is getting to be a habit!
Day 4. Leaving the Ferry and heading through Aberdeen, Huntly up to Dufftown where we all enjoyed lunch at Glenfiddich distillery, the guys then taking the full tour. One more tour today, Glen Grant distillery, again, they liked it there. Dropping them off in Rothes at the superb hotel, I drove back to Dufftown for my digs.
Day 5. Did I happen to mention all the drams whilst in the car? Aye they had a few.
Day 6. A drive to Benromach distillery, Maclean’s Bakery in Forres and a round at Nairn golf club, what a hot sunny day it was! I collected them and took then to see Sueno’s Stone – standing over 6.5 metres (about 21 feet) high and is a Picto-Scottish Class III standing stone on the north-easterly edge of Forres, Scotland. It is the largest surviving Pictish stone of its type in Scotland. Radiocarbon dating at the site produced dates of charcoal fragments to between AD 600 and AD 1000. The interpretation of the battle scene shows a victory by Malcolm II (Máel Coluim mac Cináeda) (reigned 1005–1034) against Danes or Norse led by one Sueno. A visit followed at Gordon & MacPhail for shopping, then back to the hotel for a nap. More drams that night – boy this touring lark is exhausting. We tried out a Laphroaig dram, good stuff, just like tasting an old pirate’s boot!
Day 7 saw us heading to Cragganmore distillery at 10am, a private tour and taste, then back to Glenfarclas for more drams and a looksee, many thanks here Johnathan. I took them to the Mash Tun for lunch – where the fun started. Liz had called me in the morning saying she was on her way to Glasgow for a passport. She had colluded with our pal Louise who met her at Elgin station and drove here to Aberlour. She was missing out on the whisky tour and couldnee resist coming through! Was it a surprise? Is the Pope a Catholic? Lou and Liz stayed for lunch and then we went away to Macallan for a tour – 6 pillars. Just as they were aboot to start the fire alarm went off. Half an hour late they took the tour! Liz and myself went to do some research (well she did, I was still the driver). Picking them up again we headed the short distance to Cardhu distillery, where we all fed the hairy coo’s digestive biscuits. That night was long – drinking and dining at the Craigellachie hotel. A taxi back to Rothes and then up to Dufftown where Liz and myself stayed. Day 8. Glen Moray tour with a difference, the lovely Emma took a private tour with drams from two casks, followed by 4 more in the shop. A wee bit tipsy (Guests) we drove down to Pitlochry in 74 degree heat for lunch at Moulin, and a drop in to Edradour distillery. Finally getting to Edinburgh and their final night hotel.
A great tour, thanks to everyone involved, see you again Tom and Matt.
Paul McLean; MCLEANSCOTLAND/WHISKY TOURS SCOTLAND info@mcleanscotland.com (As you can see I’m still catching up with all my emails) The trip was great! Had a ton of fun and made lots of memories. We couldn’t have asked for better tour guides-Matt
Paul & Liz
The Macallan 25 Year Old Anniversary Malt is a very rare bottling.
This great whisky is presented in a beautiful wooden case for you to admire.
Distilled in 1965 and bottled in 1991.
Macallan is the highest sought-after whisky for collectors and whisky lovers alike.
Macallan harbours the best reputation for rare expressions with some bottlings cashing in for thousands of pounds – and the prices are only climbing.
Macallan 25 Year Old Anniversary Edition £2,500.00 incl. VAT
Laphroaig “Triple Wood” Islay Single Malt Whisky (750ml) ( $59.99) 94 points Whisky Advocate: “This is the first time I’ve been up for reviews here so I had a game plan: play it cool, mark tightly, let everyone know I’m hard to please. Then they gave me this, the whisky equivalent to front row tickets to Neil Young on his current Twisted Road tour: not just a chance to get up close and personal with an old favorite, but to do so with an old favorite who’s on fire. Laphroaig’s owners are intent on ensuring a big peaty engine for any new release, but this is a monster by anyone’s standards. It’s essentially Quarter Cask finished in oloroso sherry casks, so in addition to the intense charcoal smoke attack there are rich fruity notes; blackcurrant and berries. It’s an evening barbecue whisky. Grill that fish until it’s blackened and crispy, drizzle on lemon, and as the smoke rears up in protest, sip this. Big, moody, broody, fruity, and rich: what’s not to love? (Vol 19, #3)” K&L Notes: A limited release that was supposedly for European Travel Retail only! Lucky for us some popped up in California. This is essentially the Quarter Cask finished in Oloroso Sherry Butts. There’s an extra touch of savory richness at the back end, but the entry is all peat and iodine just like we expect from Laphroaig. The finish really lurks for some time, morphing from smoke, to nutty rancio, to savory sea salt. It’s a great new release from Laphroaig – a distillery that has been absolutely killing it with their special edition whiskies as of late.
K&L Wine Merchants
http://www.klwines.com
Phone: 877-KLWines (toll free 877-559-4637)
Email: wine@klwines.com
San Francisco, Redwood City, Hollywood CA
£26.67 ex. VAT
This superb richly sherried single malt is matured for at least 12 years in a combination of the finest spanish pedro Ximenez and Oloroso sherry casks. Tasting notes: Nose: sweet, creamy vanilla, with hints of ginger. Spiced mulled wine and pear. Palate: rich, creamy, silky-smooth. Warm, rich oak and sherry sweetness, full mouth feel, raisins and soft fruits. Spicy with medium length and a dry finish.Finish: long, full and firm, slightly nutty. (Official Tasting Note)
£31.67 ex. VAT
Black Bull contains 50% malt whisky and 50% grain whisky. It is bottled at 50% ABV and has not been altered by chilled-filtration. Tasting notes: Nose: robust, chunky aromas. Chocolate, toffee, sherry, vanilla and lemon sherbet. Palate: smooth, mellow and rounded. Milk chocolate, treacle toffee, pears, green apples and lots of sweet vanilla. Finish: some heavier fruity notes emerge, and lots of creamy notes coming through. (Tasting Notes by Duncan Taylor Scotch Whisky Limited).
Glenturret 16 Year Old – Fly’s Master Edition
A new limited edition Glenturret aged for 16 years and released to celebrate a unique and historic tail. The inspiration for this bottling came from a photo which was unearthed at the distillery, which dated back to 1905. It pictured 16 stillman and a collie dog called Fly, which was believed to be the distillery managers dog.
Wolfburn Single Malt Whisky
Launched early 2016, this is the first official Wolfburn single malt Scotch whisky to be released since the distillery started production in 2013. Now the most northerly whisky distillery on the Scottish mainland, the original Wolfburn distillery was first established in 1821 and the new site was built only 350m from where this was located.
Glenglassaugh Octaves – Peated
Created using richly peated barely and fully matured in an Octave cask which is approximately 1/8th the size of a butt. Maturing whisky in a smaller cask allows more contact with the wood which delveops and ages the whisky a lot quicker. Bottled at 44% and one off two special Octave bottlings released by Glenglassaugh distillery in the Summer of 2016.
Glenglassaugh Octaves – Classic
Fully matured in an Octave cask, this special Glenglassaugh release is one of two bottlings released by the distillery in June 2016. Maturing whisky in a smaller cask allows more contact with the wood, developing and ageing the whisky a lot quicker.
Allt-à-Bhainne 22 Year Old – 1993
A single cask Allt-à-Bhainne bottled by The Vintage Malt Whisky Co. for their excellent Cooper’s Choice range. Distilled in 1993 and aged for over 22 years in American oak, with some additional ageing in a port wine pipe, giving it a superb and very inviting colour. 312 bottles filled from cask #9338.
BenRiach Peated Quarter Cask
A new release from BenRiach distillery, distilled from peated malted barley and fully matured in quarter casks. Maturing whisky in smaller casks such as a quarter casks allows for more contact with the wood, resulting in a quicker maturation.
Ardbeg Dark Cove
Ardbeg Dark Cove pays homage to smugglers and all sorts of shenanigans that used to take place on Ardbeg’s coastline, back in the day. Created from sherry cask matured whisky along with whisky matured in ex-bourbon barrels. Launched on Ardbeg’s open day (Ardbeg Night) during the Feis Ile 2016 – Dark Cove is said to be the darkest Ardbeg to date!
