Mars Komagatake & Tsunuki at K&L California – Japanese Whisky News
Mars Komagatake 7 Year Old K&L Exclusive 1st Fill Ex-Bourbon Barrel #3740 Japanese Single Malt Whiskey (700ml) $179.99 View
The wonderful Tsunuki distillery is truly a pilgrimage worth taking for any lover of great whisky. I’ve made the trek twice, and along with Kanosuke, it stands as one of the crown jewels of the recently anointed Kagoshima whisky trail. Visiting this historic property can be deceiving, as you might expect a new distillery to feel new, but it’s actually the longtime home base of Hombo Shuzo’s historic operations. The reception center is literally Hombo-san’s family home where he grew up, and the site also includes the old, now defunct grain stills that were crucial to the success of Hombo Shuzo’s shochu business. The beautiful property also features World War II era dunnage warehouses, where this special cask was aged. The selection of this barrel represents one of my favorite cask-picking experiences in nearly twenty years of doing this. After a beautiful tour with chief distilling manager and blender Tatsuro Kusano, we retired to an elegant tatami-adorned washitsu tucked behind the visitor center. There was an impressive lineup of casks waiting for us, and every single one was a joy to taste. We initially selected a beautiful medium-peated Komagatake, but the others were almost impossible to separate. After plenty of hemming and hawing, I mentioned to Kusano-san that many of our customers are obsessed with heavily peated, heavily sherried malts, a style we see less and less out of Scotland, and wondered if Tsunuki had ever gone in that direction. His eyes lit up, he raised a finger, and said, “I’ll be right back.” He sprinted across the campus to his blending room and returned with two samples dark as night. It felt like I’d spoken and the whisky gods had answered. The cask was everything we hoped for, a big, bold, unapologetic beast with deep barbecue intensity. Fittingly, Kusano-san is a huge fan of American-style barbecue, so if you ever visit the distillery, that’s the perfect omiyage. I just about started crying and was so honored and grateful that this generous colleague had gone the extra mile to find something so special for us. It’s not only these experiences that put Tsunuki at the top of my list, it’s the incredible whisky the continue to produce ever single day. We bought 2 more barrels this October and hopefully many more to come. The barrel rested for another year after selection and only grew more compelling over time. During bottling, the distillery even sent us a photo showing thick, opaque fatty oils suspended throughout the whisky and asked if we wanted it filtered. The answer was an emphatic no. Keep every bit of that cloudy magic. I won’t bother with a formal tasting note here, because if you haven’t already grabbed a bottle, you’ve probably already missed the boat. But if you love the great sherried beasts of Islay, this magical cask will absolutely knock you out for the count. David Othenin-Girard K&L Buyer
Mars Tsunuki 8 Year Old K&L Exclusive 1st Fill Sherry Cask #T326 Japanese Single Malt Whiskey (700ml) $189.99 View
Seeing an official release of an “infinity bottle” is still a fairly new concept in the bourbon world. The practice, much like a personal solera, involves a never-ending bottle or barrel that is partially emptied and then topped back up with new whiskey. The spirit is constantly evolving while always retaining some portion of the original liquid. Pour some out, top it off, lather, rinse, repeat. I have one at home, I started one at a former bar I lead that is still going strong eight or nine years later, and I encourage any whisk(e)y fan to try it as a fun experiment and a living ledger of your liquid legacy. Here we have the second edition of the legendary Noe family’s take on the concept. This blend brings together some of grandfather Booker’s bourbon, some of father Fred’s, and some of current master distiller Freddie’s. The combination differs from the first edition and offers a tasting of both the Noe family’s lineage and the history of the Jim Beam company in a single, stellar bottle. Blending young and mature whiskies can be tricky. Older liquid can overwhelm with woody tannins, while younger, brighter spirit can overpower the more rounded notes of age. This one comes together beautifully. It is deep, robust, and far spicier than expected, especially considering Booker’s typically high-corn mashbill. Cinnamon leads the nose, followed by dense wet oak, burnt caramel, stewed peaches, and a potpourri-like bouquet. On the palate, it moves gracefully between sweet and dry, opening with rich blackstrap molasses and dried plum before shifting into weathered mahogany and leather. The finish brings black cherry compote and dense barrel char, with baking spices weaving from start to finish. A small splash of water unlocks fresh roasted peanuts and blackberry jam, along with softer spices and a note of toasted pumpernickel, a welcome settling of the 120.4 proof. Overall, this is a dense, spicy, and complex bourbon that celebrates the infinite legacy of three generations from one of Kentucky’s most important bourbon families. David Othenin-Girard K&L Buyer
Email: wine@klwines.com
Phone: (877) KL-WINES (Toll Free 877.559.4637)
K&L Wine Merchants 3005 El Camino Real Redwood City, CA 94061 USA
San Francisco, Redwood City, Hollywood CA
