Old Particular Mortlach at K&L California – Scotch Whisky News
2009 Mortlach 16 Year Old “Old Particular” K&L Exclusive Single Cask Strength Refill Hogshead Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky (700ml) $109.99 View
Josh Gelfand Review On my first trip to Scotland many years ago I was advised by a friend to check out this little whisky bar called the Blue Blazer in Edinburgh. I was new in the industry and looking to explore some whiskies on my last night in town. The night ultimately turned ridiculously epic after I befriended a group of street performers during Fringe Festival and let them kidnap me for a full night of shenanigans. But before they stormed the pub, I enjoyed a quiet few hours of exploration under the guidance of the bartender. The first whisky she poured was one that changed everything for me: a Mortlach 15-year-old from Gordon & MacPhail. At the time I barely knew the distillery, but in that moment it became my favorite, and it remains on my personal Mount Rushmore of Scottish producers to this day. There is something about the dense, waxy, oily spirit they create, most of which disappears into Johnnie Walker blends, that sets it apart from the rest. Is it the worm tub? Is it the quirky 2.81-times distillation using the Wee Witchie still, adding that extra copper contact on a fractional pass of the weak feints from the wash still? I mean, yeah, it’s probably all of that. I have never had a Mortlach, distillery bottled or independent, that I did not absolutely love. And this one is no exception. It is everything I want from a Mortlach and a little more. Beautiful honey greets you on the nose, and for a whisky sixteen years old, a surprising amount of roasted barley malt makes itself known. The sweet barley shines on the palate, with those rich, waxy oils carrying vanilla bean, heather, lemon balm, and soft hints of mint. The finish lingers with milk chocolate and the last traces of those lovely fusel oils coating your mouth. This one sticks with you in the best possible way. What an extraordinary cask pick we have here for you. Definitely do not miss out on this one.
Distilled July 20th, 2009. The Mortlach distillery is one of Scotland’s very best. Located in the heart of Speyside, this special distillery is very rarely found as a single malt. The little valley at the southern edge of Dufftown has been the location of a licensed distillery since 1823, but was most likely the site of illicit distillation long before that. It was Dufftown’s first legal distillery after excise reform and would anchor the town as one of Scotland’s most important distilling communities. The spirit was prized from the very beginning and was purchased by John Walker & Sons exactly 100 years after its founding. It remains a core element in the entire Johnnie Walker line, but the distillery did not get a widespread single malt expression until 2014, when two NAS expressions and two expensive age-stated offerings were released. They’ve since retooled the distillery line, and it remains one of Diageo’s most well-regarded offerings despite recent price increases.
2012 Laphroaig 13 Year Old “Old Particular” K&L Exclusive Refill Bourbon Barrel Cask Strength Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky (700ml) $109.99 View
David Othenin-Girard There was a period not long ago when our suppliers were telling us never to expect another drop of Laphroaig at anything close to a reasonable price. The reason for that? Independent bottlers price their stocks not based on acquisition costs, but on replacement costs. As the distillery throttles back on availability, the industry responds by raising prices—simple economics. But everywhere else we look, suppliers are still asking double or triple what our friends at Douglas Laing are able to offer. We don’t see a lot of those products on the market, as there simply isn’t much interest in even excellent Laphroaig under 15 years old at $200 or $300 a bottle. But here we are: a proper mid-aged Laphroaig for just over $100? We’ve still got it, baby. The style here is absolutely classical—powerful, savory, and ocean-driven with the expected iodine, crushed oyster shell, creosote, forest floor, ripe green olives, and lemon oil. It’s similar stock to the 10-year-old we had back in 2023, but 30% older and more developed, yet nearly the same price. A stupendous whisky and a ridiculous value.
2007 Bruichladdich 18 Year Old “Old Particular” K&L Exclusive Single Cask Strength Refill Hogshead Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky (700ml) $225.00 View
David Othenin-Girard I was so excited to see this on the Douglas Laing list I jumped at the chance to taste this distillate. When the samples arrived I knew we had something special. Some might point to this barrel and exclaim about the price, and yes compared to many lesser names, this is an expensive 18 year old. But compared to other single barrel Bruichladdich this is EXTREMELY affordable. Single barrels of Bruichladdich from our friends at Dramfool traded for over $300 in the 10-12 year range. An 18 year from the Douglas Laing’s rival Hunter Laing trades for over $400! So it’s really a pretty good deal and simply the only old single barrel in the market. But all of that doesn’t matter if you don’t like how it tastes and for those expecting the big extracted wine-y style that many older Bruichladdichs exhibit (I’m looking at you Black Art) or even the toast-y character of the distillery 18, you’ll be disappointed. Those who love the purity and character of old rugged Bruichladdich spirit on full display without any dressing or make-up – you’ll rejoice. Let’s see what we’ve got. The color is a minimalistic pale gold (0.3). The gorgeous nose offers classical aromatics – lemon oil, canary melons, cream of wheat, salty rocks, fresh salt meadows, butter cookies, barley tea, hints of industrial machinery, and old boats. The palate has plenty more of the lemon-y stuff with a big malt-y core and buttered salted biscuits. It’s just a gorgeous old school version of this most modern malt that is seemingly not in existence elsewhere at the moment. Perhaps for some of the most discerning – this will be the whisky of the season.
1991 Macallan 30 Year Old “Douglas Laing’s Xtra Old Particular – XOP” Cask Strength Single Hogsheads Highland Single Malt Whisky (700ml) $1,600.00 View
This rare opportunity is the result not of some lack in demand for the legendary estate in the Scottish Highlands, but the unusual advantages periodic importer changes afford a retailer like K&L. All across the world, a single barrel of Macallan aged 30 years commands an incredible premium over almost any other malt on the market. Thanks to our good relations and kind demeanor we’ve been given access to the last few bottles in this special cask at an altogether unheard of price. Even many years ago, it would be unusual to see a similar cask at a lower asking price. Barrel DL15809 was bottled in 2022 at full cask strength without any chillfiltration, dilution or coloring whatsoever.
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