Winter Outturn – Holiday Parcel Offerings
Mouth-wateringly sharp and sweet
Cask No. 9.62 $85
Speyside, Spey
The nose started out really fresh – laundry flapping on the line, lemon, pineapple, strawberry and polished wood, but changed to caramel, toffee and cinnamon; then later, to leather and musk. The palate was spicy, oaky and astringent – suggesting chilli heat or spicy boiled sweets (aniseed balls, clove balls). The reduced nose offered soft spice, butterscotch, some wood shavings and plasticine (‘a carpenter’s workshop’) with lemon spikiness. The reduced palate became mouth-wateringly sharp and sweet (like Moffat toffees) but also had little flickering flames of gentle drying spice – Fisherman’s Friends, cinnamon. The distillery has a secret dram safe in the gardens.
Drinking tip: A good digestif
Colour: Yellow gold Date distilled: August 2002
Cask: First-fill barrel Alcohol: 62.1%
Age: 8 years USA allocation: 149 Bottles
Not for wee boys
Cask No. 29.104 $140
Islay
A big nose with lots going on. Carbolic soap, sticking plasters, treacle, hot smoked salmon, burnt heather and liquorice root added to the anticipation. Then a youthful woody spiciness together with jerk chicken sauce (rosemary, thyme, cloves, honey). The palate was massive with concentrated flavours and bitter woodiness. Water brought out prunes, raisins, lemon juice and old camp fires. A musky aroma accompanied some lighter floral notes. A brief hint of struck matches to taste gave way to tannins, burnt heather, liquorice sticks and lots of sweetness. It benefited from some water to calm it down. Of the three Kildalton distilleries, this is the one closest to Port Ellen.
Drinking tip: When you aren’t planning on sampling another whisky that evening
Colour: Pale straw Date distilled: October 1990
Cask: Refill Sherry butt Alcohol: 58.2%
Age: 20 years USA allocation: 120 Bottles
Glazed cashews and lemon lollies
Cask No. 27.97 $110
Campbeltown
Stunning for its age! Creamy fudge, condensed milk, Golden Syrup on hot buttered toast; Caramac toffee/chocolate; ‘Dolcé de Leché’ (Argentinian pastries). A very sweet taste, then mouth drying, with a thread of smoke in the finish; caramelised cashew nuts and fresh kindling wood. A drop of water musters crushed rosemary, beurre noir, ‘lemon lollies in warm sand’, sea-salt and a trace of struck matches; the taste smooth and viscous, with a light sweetness balanced by dry tannins; allspice, leather and tobacco in the finish. A classic old-fashioned example of the make from Campbeltown’s leading distillery.
Drinking tip: In a beach hut
Colour: Deep amber; cream sherry Date distilled: May 1998
Cask: Refill gorda Alcohol: 57.6%
Age: 13 years USA allocation: 180 Bottles
Straightforward, sweet and spicy
Cask No. 42.10 $85
Highland, Island
Yes it was young – but perfectly enjoyable – we nosed dried grass, flowers, herbs, creosote and soft tar (perhaps in a farmyard context?); also lemon sponge, vanilla, pepper and chocolate Easter eggs in boxes. The unreduced palate was pretty straightforward, sweet and spicy; specifically milk chocolate and white pepper, along with grass and paper. The reduced nose offered green grapes, melted vanilla ice-cream, some salt and a ‘scorched boiler-suit’. That simple balance (don’t look for much complexity) also inhabited the reduced palate – plum jam, syrup, MDF furniture, ‘licking a TV screen’ and some spicy warmth to finish. From Mull’s only distillery.
Drinking tip: When you need a ‘quickie’
Colour: Pale wood sap Date distilled: March 2005
Cask: Refill barrel Alcohol: 62.7%
Age: 7 years USA allocation: 60 Bottles
A vaudeville act
Cask No. G2.2 $250
Grain
Once the largest grain whisky distillery in Scotland, it was closed and dismantled in 1983. Its make was never bottled by its owner and is very rare in indie bottlings. Jaunty for its age: ‘red patent-leather dancing pumps’ came to mind. A school art-room, with poster paint, Gloy glue, ink, vinyl and coated card – all behind vanilla fudge. Sweet and oaky to taste, with vanilla, coconut and light liquorice. With water it became a newly crafted coffin, wax-polished and resinous. A light texture and a short finish, with a hint of Murraymints and strong, lorry-drivers, tea, and condensed milk.
Drinking tip: While watching a school tap-dancing class
Colour: Bright gold Date distilled: November 1976
Cask: Refill barrel Alcohol: 53.6%
Age: 35 years USA allocation: 60 Bottles
Please visit the Scotch Malt Whisky Society of America at http://www.smwsa.com/ for further information on their single cask bottlings.
