Whisky Intelligence Rowan Tree Tasting Note;

Isle of Arran 13yo 1997/2010 (46%, OB, Rowan Tree Limited Edition, 6000 Bts.)

The second in the series “The Icons of Arran”, the follow up to the 2009 release of Arran Peacock and limited to 6,000 bottles. The nose is mildly perfumed (hints of rose water & lilac?) followed by really good fruit and malt. There are also hints of fizzy sherry and then grape fruit plus some hints of unlit cured tobacco. It’s both good and a departure from other bottlings of Arran. The grape fruit is very intriguing. Perhaps some vague hints of pine resin also? On to the taste which is malty followed by the grape fruit, the wood and then it becomes drier and slightly more solid; it firms up some what. Again this is a departure from previous Arrans however it’s still very good. Definitely from the malty, fragrant and fruity side of the flavour wheel. The finish is malty first and foremost followed by the grapefruit and the wood notes. The finish is warming and medium in length.

Consistent to say the least. Enjoyable. But a departure from the norm, which is fine.

£32

82 points

The announcemnet of The Rowan Tree Bottling;

ARRAN WHISKY LAUNCHES NEW LIMITED EDITION BOTTLES

Award-winning Scotch whisky producer Isle of Arran Distillers, have launched a limited edition of 6,000 bottles; The Arran Malt Rowan Tree.

This single malt Scotch whisky consists of 10 ex-Olorosso Sherry Butts carefully selected by Master Distiller James MacTaggart from the 1997 distillation. The result is a golden-coloured malt which has, over the 12 years of maturation, developed complex aromas of dark chocolate, cherries and ginger with a distinctive mint-toffee character on the palate.

The decadent tipple has been named after the equally flamboyant Scottish Rowan Trees which surround the Isle of Arran distillery and in Scottish folklore are believed to ward off evil spirits. Several species of Rowan Tree are unique to the Isle of Arran.

The Arran Rowan Tree is the second edition of the Icons of Arran Series. The first edition, ‘The Peacock’, was named after the distillery’s very own live-in peacock.

Euan Mitchell, Managing Director at Arran Whisky comments “We are very excited to be launching the second limited-edition bottling from our Icon of Arran Series in the year of our 15th anniversary. Our first, The Peacock, sold out very quickly so we’re confident that Arran Rowan Tree will have the same reception in the UK and worldwide.”

This summer, Arran Whisky will be celebrating the distillery’s 15th anniversary with July’s festivities to be announced soon.

Arran Rowan Tree, RRP £38.99, is available from The Arran Malt Shop (www.arranwhisky.com) and specialist shops across the UK and worldwide.

Isle of Arran 4yo 2005/2009 (57.7%, OB, Peated, Bourbon, C#116, 253 Bts., D’12/12/05 B’7/12/09)

Hmmm…if they had waited a few days this would have been a 5yo instead of a 4yo. The late 2009 release of the peated Arran; again some what of a new project for the distillery, normally their mal is unpeated. Mr. Currie liked it that way. 

The nose is astringent at first; some malt manages to escape from the clutches of the alcohol and then some peat smoke (which is not hugely strong). Also some fruit. After 10 minutes in the glass some creamy white chocolate. This is very strong; time for some water. Swirls and eddies…plasticine, pepper, increased fruit and smoke. The undiluted taste is chocolaty, malty and peppery, the undiluted taste is actually manageable. Vanilla, marmalade, Hazelnuts? Chewy, malty. The diluted taste is much more gentle but slightly duller but sweeter. The undiluted taste is much more vibrant. Not a lot of peat. The finish is good, malty and slightly peated with hints of kippers, after a few moments some really good fruit makes and appearance which knocks the peat smoke into the back ground.

A bit of a puzzle but lots going on; it won’t disappoint.

£48 at Loch Fyne Whiskies

Score 81 points

Glendronach 12yo ‘Original’ (43%, OB, PX & Oloroso cask matured, +/- 2009)

The revamped 12yo released by Billy Walker and team which has won fans with some speed. Matured in Pedro Ximenez and Oloroso casks. The nose is nicely sherried and backed by some slight green notes at first that quickly give way to more honey sweetness (think of tinned fruit cocktail). The more time it spends in the glass the more it opens to reveal its sweet sherried side. There are some back ground notes of heather and roses. The taste is vibrant, sherried and very, very good. Oh well done, this is really nice. The sherry is nicely complimented by the delicate rose and heather along with some nice oak notes. Spicy and sherried. What a cracker this is. The finish is more of the same; very well balanced. Everything as previously described carries on and then an extra dollop of sweetness just to hammer home the point. It is quite long and after a while some cold unsweetened tea makes an appearance. After some further passage of time some malt arrives…

Extremely enjoyable.

C$70

Score 86 points

It's the one on the far left...

The Chieftain’s Range “Rare Single Malt Scotch Whiskies”

From http://www.ianmacleod.com/

“Since 1936, Ian Macleod Distillers, through its dedication to tradition and quality, has amassed an unrivalled cask stock from Scotland’s many distilleries. This enviable collection includes extremely rare malts, some from closed or mothballed distilleries. The Chieftain’s collection hallmark is that each bottling must be fit for a King, a Leader or in the Celtic world, a Chieftain.

The new look Limited Edition Chieftain’s will appeal to the specialist, connoisseur, collector, enthusiast and those seeking an exceptional premium malt whisky gift. Each bottle is signed by our Chieftain’s Rare Malt Manager, and provides details of the wood type, cask number, number of bottles, vintage year, age and bottling date.

The small batch releases of Chieftain’s are selected for the Spring and Autumn collections each year with a variety of distilleries, vintages, wood maturations and strengths being made available.

The new, elegant antique bottle is reminiscent of a 1900 whisky bottle. It is decorated with a new style label design complete with new branding, calligraphy and watermark illustrations of Scotland, representative of the 5 different whisky producing regions. Each region is colour coded to signify the differences in the style of each whisky.

The new more individual rigid presentation gift box, surrounding the antique bottle, in ribbed and matt black with gold lining, is a true reflection of the quality of the whisky, and with its folding back head beautifully presents the product. On the rear of the box you will find a label describing the various styles of whiskies you can get from the different regions of Scotland, all of which are represented in the Chieftain’s range.

Chieftain’s is bottled at natural colour and unchill-filtered to preserve all the natural esthers of the whisky for fuller flavour and smoother taste.

Each Chieftain’s bottling has its own personality and may vary in strength, colour and style. From the very pale, bourbon cask matured to the very amber sherry cask matured.

When finishing the whisky in a variety of wood, each cask is checked and selected by our expert noses and released only when we believe it has reached its peak and has not masked the personality of the original spirit.”

Caol Ila 17yo (43%, Chieftain’s Range, HHD, C#4719)

The nose is very nice right off; loads of peat smoke (Dettol, seaweed, iodine) followed by hints of biscuits (dry crunchy malt, Weetabix) and some sweetness in the shape of light toffee and warmed pears. The peat smoke characteristics are the dominant features of the three however. There are also hints of wine like notes which bind everything together. The taste is peated and dry with some dark chocolate, lashings of the malt biscuity notes followed by even more peat smoke but not it has deepened to become coal smoke like (think of walking through a quiet Scottish village on a fall evening when the coal fires are burning). Later hints of the wine notes. A bit more of the biscuity notes. The finish is at first all peat/coal smoke then the malty/biscuity notes enter but the peat/coal smoke remain throughout; everything is secondary to the wonderful combination of peat and coal smoke. Cracker! The finish is very long and even, alternating between the peat smoke and the malt. Hints of cloth bandages at the very end of the finish, after a number of minutes. After 10 minutes there are hints of diesel, just to remind you that you’re drinking a coastal whisky.

Wonderful stuff.

$90

Score 88 points

Port Ellen 25yo (43%, Chieftain’s Range, HHD, C#1522)

The nose is slightly sour at first but his quickly gives way to some lovely honey and peat smoke/coal smoke  (iodine, bandages and pipe smoke – nosed in the big jar in the shop) along with some liquorice, heather, wood spice, coconut matting and tiny hints of roses. Not a big Islay nose but an Islay nose none the less. The taste is very subtle at first and then the Islay notes described above come to the surface. Light coal smoke, iodine, light pipe smoke and some cereal/malt notes well integrated with the honeyed sweetness. The finish is honeyed, malty at first and then the gentle coal smoke makes and appearance and the two casually walk down the beach in front of the distillery remnants together. After a few minutes the malt & coal smoke are much more aggressive and still a force. Handfuls of peated malt scooped from the malt kiln. Quite a long finish; maybe a little more complicated after all?

Not the most in your face Islay however still a well crafted dram. An interesting Port Ellen.

$280

Score 86 points

Springbank 39yo (43%, Chieftain’s Range, HHD, C#1542)

The nose is earthy (think of their dunnage warehouse with the earthen floor), ‘antique’ old string musical instruments, beautifully fragrant (but not perfumed) and some what different from the current bottlings of Springbank which are excellent but this is different; hints of malt and honey and barley sugar, hints of white pepper and gentle oak. The taste is gentle, honeyed with tinges of peat smoke and some of the fragrant/heather notes. It’s delicious. This is a quality dram and after a few moments the smoke builds a little but never over powers. Hints of Weetabix and then also some hints of a dessert wine (despite this being from a Hogs Head.  The finish is gentle with the barley sugar and honey working well with the malt dust, hints of smoke and the fragrance. It is long and very enjoyable.

This is really very good; don’t be dissuaded by the lack of an official bottling label, this is a steal at $399.  Do some quick online research and see what other 39 year old whiskies are selling for.

Score 89 points

Longmorn 13yo (43%, Chieftain’s Range, HHD, C#74879)

The nose has hints of heather and juniper, oats, further hints of tinned fruit cocktail and cedar shavings. Some what closed or perhaps simply not a huge collection of aromas. With the addition of water leather and further sweetness comes to the fore and just the tiniest hint of peat smoke (so there is more going on than first noted). The fragrant notes increase in stature. The taste is peppery, malty and all nicely pulled together by the fragrant dry oak notes followed by a moment or two of the peat smoke (this is very fleeting). The combination of the malt and the tinned fruit cocktail and the dry spice and peppery is very alluring. The finish is lightly peated followed by malt and the sweetness and then it becomes quite dry with some dark bitter chocolate and then more malt. The finish is long and does not fall off the edge of the cliff with any unhappy characteristics which is a very pleasing development. After a few minutes the sweet malt is the last man standing.

Some what different from the official bottlings but this is not a criticism, this is very enjoyable. Clean, uncluttered, focused.

$65

Score 84 points

Linkwood 16yo (43%, Chieftain’s Range, HHD, C#7956)

The nose is delicate at first blush but grows in the glass. There are hints of white wine, loads of malt, cedar and fragrance in the form of heather and wood lined boxes (but from across the room, not right up close). It’s very pleasant. Pipe smoke also (unsmoked and nosed straight from the jar in the tobacconists). More malt after a time. The taste is gentle at first with some good honey, more malt, barley sugar and then some rich oak spice and cedar for fragrance. Everything is working together here and it’s very good. No complaints what so ever. The finish is like a straight line; more of the malt, the tobacconists, the barley sugar and the oak spice/fragrant cedar. Despite these last two it is not mouth suckingly dry however the dryness is in residence and it adds to the overall effect. There’s some late arrival of crème Brule which is a nice surprise.

The pale colour of the sample does not provide any hints of the quality waiting inside.

$70 Another great dollar value with this one.

Score 87 points

Glen Rothes 14yo (43%, Chieftain’s Range, Burgundy Finish, C#90851)

The nose is a departure from previous samples, mildly industrial, rich, loamy, wafts of warm chocolate brownies and field berries. The richness continues to build, hints of the Glen Rothes characteristics in the back ground below the wine finishing. The taste is quite fruity with some black pepper, hints of malt, the afore mentioned industrial notes (however they are very light and give some back bone). After some moments in the mouth there is further fruit, black liquorices and a creamy end much like a creamy sherry or a cream of tomato soup, oddly. The finish is more of the tomato soup this time with mild black pepper, lashings of fruit and now a fizzy candy right towards the end. The finish is not big in the Islay sense but still quite significant however it does not blast into the head. Still it’s good and quite long. After a few minutes some really good malt moments struggle through the wine.

Nice. The Burgundy finishing has not dominated the whisky but added another layer of complexity and they are well married.

$72

Score 84 points

Glen Moray 18yo (43%, Chieftain’s Range, HHD, C#7279)

The nose is of straw, malt along with some sweetness, a very delicate collection of aromas. A slight creaminess, fruit and after a few minutes in the glass more of the malt and some delicate hints of pineapple (warmed not cold straight from the fridge). Very nice. The taste is malty, sweet, and fruity along with some really nice oak characteristics (cedar spice, hint’s of leather & tobacco Fry’s cocoa, cold unsweetened black tea) along with some more mare, the afore mentioned fruit (pineapple and apples – Fuji rather than Granny Smith etcetera). The finish is gentle and quite long for such a delicate whisky however it is very good. The malt is the pre eminent characteristic and it holds strong for a very long time; indeed it seems to grow with time. After 10 minutes there is dusty malt and hints of white wine…

Another very good dram from Chieftain’s; very well balanced and a delightful combination of malt, fruit and oak spice.

$90 What a steal…

Score 86 points

Glencadam 22yo (43%, Chieftain’s Range, HHD C#3996)

The nose is fruity; pears and malt with hints of leather and tobacco. After a few minutes in the glass the nose opens and becomes significantly sweeter and very pleasant. There is also sweet oak (whatever that is) perhaps a sap wood? Either way the combination of the pears, malt and oak make for a compelling combination. The addition of water brings out wet sand paper but other wise it stands firm. The taste is once again fruity (pears) but the oak and leather have a slight advantage here; the leather and tobacco take over in the later parts of the taste. Very good. With water it is nicely gentle with the pears and malt, the leather and tobacco are muted. The finish is warming and gentle with a continuation of the pears and fruit along with the others descriptors. The gentle aspect continues and after a number of minutes the malt makes the final appearance which is good.

Well balanced. Good, straight forward. Water helps but don’t add too much.

$115

Score 85 points

Allt’ A’ Bhainne 31yo (43%, Chieftain’s Range, C#23041)

The nose is strong, fruity and there are hints of smoke which is a small surprise. The smoke is not huge but it is there. Which is nice. After some moments in the glass the smoke increases and it takes on some characteristics of Springbank. There is also sweetness and some fragrant notes; heather and flowers on a warm evening. The heather and floral are accompaniments and are not over whelming or dominant. The add to the quality. Hugely pleasing. The taste is actually quite smokey (but not peaty in the Islay sense) along with the fruit and heather (the flowers have gone). Oak, sweetness and some crème Brule along with barley sugar. A sensational combination of flavours. Some oak and cedar come to the party too. The finish is much the same as the taste and is very good, no off notes. It’s long, flavourful and very pleasant. Not a single off note and loads of happiness. After a few minutes the finish is continuing at full pace.

World Cup moreish, one dram won’t be enough.

US$125

Score 88 points

Dalmore 11yo (43%, Chieftain’s, Madeira Finish, C#90522)

The nose is sharp, buttery and mildly sour however this quickly turns to tree fruits followed by some oak and hints green (green malt). There is also white chocolate and Skittles. The taste is solid Highland at first quickly taken over by a creamy sweetness along with the white chocolate and some really good oak. There are also some hints of bitterness and then some really good depth from the raisins. Malt and more fruit. A good creamy taste to be sure. A reappearance of the of the raisins.  The finish is full of the sun drenched raisins along with some tobacco, more fruit and some dark unsweetened chocolate. It is long and filled with flavour. After a while the malt (and banana) pops up from underneath the raisins. After a few minutes the faintest hint of smoke makes a surprise appearance.

Pleasant and enjoyable. The Madeira brings some welcome depth and extra flavour to the party.

US$70

Score 82 points

Many thanks to Sam Filmus of ImpEx Beverages for the samples. Visit Ian Macleod Distillers and the Chieftain’s Range at http://www.ianmacleod.com/brands/?id=2  and ImpEx Beverages at www.impexbev.com

Highland Park 15yo (43%, OB, +/-2009)

On the nose there’s good depth and honeyed smokiness along with citrus rind, plump raisins and hints of cocoa. Well, this is very nice. With some more time in the glass the smoke and the depth increases. The smoke is not Islay style but a welcome addition to the mix; it does not dominate. Everything is in harmony here. The taste is fruity at first followed by the citrus and then the smoke steps forward to introduce itself. The taste is vibrant and very good. There’s also some more of the cocoa, some dryness from the oak some cold unsweetened tea. Hints of tobacco and short bread. Heather. The finish is as the nose and the taste; it’s long and even. Loads going on here, nice citrus after a short while. Malt. More fruit.

A cracker. Gives the 18yo a run.

C$95

Score 88 points.

J&B Rare (40%, OB, Blended, +/- 2010)

Try and find any information via the link below; you’ll give up before the ridiculous flash website loads…although it does seem it is ‘the ultimate party whisky’. A bold claim indeed. J&B are the initials of Messer’s Justerini and Brooks who must had something to do with the whisky, at one time or another. The nose is mildly astringent at first and then this is followed by some nice honey and malt. Other wise it is a simple blended scotch whisky (on the nose). To be fair it is light blended whisky and meant to appeal to those who do like a lighter dram (often with water and ice). After some hand warming some spicy notes emerge. It’s pleasant but note overly complicated. The taste is pleasant, warming with some malt and once again the honey along with hints of marmalade and brandy. Other fruits (hints of green apples and pears). The finish is quite long with hints of leather and tobacco and malt. It is warming and reasonably long. After a few minutes some really, really good moments of malt emerge.

Don’t think about it too much; just enjoy the party……

$19.98

Score 78 points

WI was marooned in Phoenix Arizona airport in the US Airways Club lounge for 8 hours and the only option was to do a tasting note (now done) and watch the US Airways Express baggage handlers throw the luggage onto the tarmac and several feet onto the nearest cart and often missing. Flight after flight after flight. Perhaps they all suffer from brain injuries and cannot judge the distance properly? Perhaps the extreme heat? It might be helpful to move the cart a little closer? Perhaps such pedestrian solution is just not of any practicable value??

This is of course for unloading only.

When loading the airplane the cart is nice and close to the loading ramp. This time…

http://www.jbscotch.com/intro.php

Buchanan's 1930's Illustrated London News Advert

 

Buchanan’s 12yo (40%, OB, Finest Blended Deluxe Scotch Whisky, +/- 2010)

A very popular blended Scotch whisky and particularly so in the United States. The nose is immediately smokey and the distinctive aromas one associates with grain whisky (from a continuous still); it is also honeyed and after a while in the glass the smoke changes (or becomes more defined) and takes on the aromas of a smoke house. There is also some malt and warm apricots (although this is very faint). The taste is honeyed with a really nice interplay the smoke and the grain whisky. There are also some dark chocolate notes and some dry oak notes. The taste is very appealing and will be a welcome surprise to those who like blended Scotch whiskies. After a while there is a another appearance of the malt whish gives it a strong back bone. The finish is malty, slightly dusty and not over whelming large but still full of loads of character, the malt builds and is backed by the honey. It is long and consistent. Malty smoke again.

A very good Scottish blended whisky that is of good value with loads of character. Even a malt lover can appreciate the quality in this whisky.

$35

Score 84 points

Tullibardine 42yo 1966/2008 (49.9%, OB for Kensington, C#3509, Hogs Head, 246 Bts.)

Yet another private bottling for the Canadian province of Alberta; one has to wonder if they ever work or do they simply sit around all day dreaming of the next cask? Evidently they put their money where there mouth is. The color is an astonishing deep ruby red and the nose reveals Bing cherries, sour candies (think way back to Tilly’s acid drops) and suddenly the fooling around is over; big oak spice, hints of clove, bees wax and many, many things wooden and antique. After a few minutes there is a deep sweetness like warm honey. Quite excellent. The taste is very dry and oaky with a moment of varnish and then it takes off with Christmas cake, pear, raisins and brown sugar. The oakiness nicely compliments the sweetness. While it has a big taste there are also some very gentle moments. Multi faceted. Moments of pepper or cinnamon…The finish is dry, long and filled with wood spices, unsweetened cold black tea. Actually the finish is very long and very consistent. A long finish (was that already said?).

Oooofff…this is really nice. Mouth smackingly good. Tullibardine certainly can produce some gems.

C$425

Score 92 points.

Nicely appointed in a blond wooden box lined with tartan…

Visit Kensington at www.kensingtonwinemarket.com

Laphroaig 10yo (43%, OB, +/-2009) versus Laphroaig 10yo (40%, OB, +/-2007)

The 10yo as available in the USA and bottled at 43% ABV (in many markets the standard 10 year old is bottled at 40%). What does a few more percentage points reveal? Is it the 7% solution? (This last bit was a Sherlock Holmes reference).

The 43% nose is deeply peated and backed by some really good unsweetened cocoa followed by some heather and brine notes.

A quick nose of the 2007 40% bottling for comparison shows the aromas to be much more vegetal and sharper; perhaps with even a little green thrown in (think of barley & cut grass). These notes settle down after a while in the glass however the aromas of the two are distinctively different.

Additionally the nose of the 2009 43% is sweeter, shows more assertive peat smoke and a bit more cocoa and brine. It is bigger and more appealing.

The taste on the 43% is filled with delicious peat smoke, malt, cocoa, brine and hints of peanut butter.

The 2007 40% is evidently weaker in the mouth, still very good, thinner mouth feel but still show lots of flavour; the peat smoke and malt.

The 2009 43% finish is warming, full, smokey and long. Again brine, some really good sweetness and more peat characteristics; coal smoke and seaweed.

The 2007 40% finish is very much less but still shows a good finish with the vegetal creeping in towards the end.

Conclusion.The 2009 43% is the better single malt by a point or two. It would be instructive to review a 40% and a 43% from the same year. The 40% sample was purchased in Canada.

WI understands batch variation may be playing a part however experience gained over many years has shown the 43% to be slightly better.

Visit Laphroaig Distillery at www.laphroaig.com

Springbank 12yo (54.4%, OB, ‘Claret Wood’, 9360 Bts., D’05/’97 B’02/’10)

Springbank brings an unusual aspect to the practice of ‘finishing’ a whisky. While most distillers limit the time a second cask and whisky spend together, Springbank goes all out. In this case 3 years of finishing. And at cask strength or without adding colour or chill filtration (Well done). The nose is strong at first and then the classic Springbank characteristics come roaring out of the glass along with loads of vibrant fruit and very reminiscent of Fruit Loops (the breakfast cereal). This is only for a short while, it soon settles down to reveal honey with tinges of smoke, black currents, black berries and warmed Lychee. There are also hints of malt and some good wood spice. A sensational collection of aromas that is all fruit and Springbank. The taste right off is typical Springbank (which is good) followed by some afore described fruit and then some dryness with hints of cold unsweetened tea and cocoa. There are also moments of diesel however it adds to the weight and doesn’t detract. With a splash of water everything is there but so in such an aggressive fashion, more syrupy but still with loads of flavour. It’s good. The finish is fruity and then quite dry with bees wax, heather, rose (?) and mint (ever so slight). It’s warming and long. There are more wood characteristics and the later stages of the finish are much like a dry batch of Aberlour a’bunadh. Not identical but just ‘much like’.

Very good….like it or not, sometimes finishing works.

C$83