Caol Ila 10yo 2009 (58%, SMWS, Refill Hogshead, 53.157, +/-2012)

Peat smoke rockets out of the glass. Actually the tasting note could end right here. Need one say more? However discipline must be maintained, also on the nose is nice cocoa, more of the peat smoke and some subtle hints of the cask. It’s very good, not massively complex but very good. With water the chocolate malt which has suddenly appeared changes to coal smoke and us deep and foreboding which of course for a peat lover is great news. The taste is big, citrusy, aggressive, slightly violent and well continues in the theme of being very good and very much in the classic style of the distillery needs some water added. Water allows he whisky to become significantly approachable and the coal smoke is very much in evidence. The finish is big and filled with cocoa, chocolate, malt and peat smoke although the peat smoke and chocolate are pretty well intertwined. The finish is very large and very long with mouth smacking malt; don’t over do the water!

Well balanced (even if the notes don’t reflect this) with lashings of coal smoke and good malt. Great vibrancy and enjoyable

$95 and 120 bottles for the US branch of the Society

Score 90

Part 4 of 4 featuring the excellent single cask single malts of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society of America. Samples kindly provided by the SMWS of A.

Please visit the Scotch Malt Whisky Society of America at http://www.smwsa.com/ for further information on their single cask bottlings.

Mortlach 21yo 1989 (57.8%, SMWS, First–fill Sherry Butt, 76.84, +/-2012)

On the nose there is some ‘sparkle’ or fizziness followed by a flash of ‘industrial’ or solvent quickly surpassed by crème brûlée and an intriguing slightly sour moment (think sour candies) but not unpleasantness like sour milk. Or a fizzy sour martini or such…in any case enough with the sour notes. There is scant sight of the sherry until a few minutes in when it makes a welcome appearance. Very good so far. The taste is very good and the sherry does show up nicely and everything pops into place with some good meatiness and the sherry working in sync to deliver a first rate taste experience. Lovely, lovely, lovely. All hands on deck this is really very good. The finish is more of the sherry and more of the meatiness with a little bit of the fizziness and then some leather and tobacco. The finish is not overly long but this can be resovled by simply having another sip.

Really very good, find one if you can.

$145 and 239 bottles for the US branch of the Society.

Score 90 points

Part 3 of 4 featuring the excellent single cask single malts of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society of America. Samples kindly provided by the SMWS of A.

Please visit the Scotch Malt Whisky Society of America at http://www.smwsa.com/ for further information on their single cask bottlings.

Highland Park 11yo 1999 (58.6%, SMWS, First-fill barrel, 4.153, +/-2012)

On the nose it’s a little closed at first but soon opens up to reveal a little welcome smoke (like the first hint of a distant home fire) and then citrus and warm marzipan; everything is really quite sensational when taken together. There are also vague hints of some earthiness and a little bit of heather; all very good. The taste is actually quite gentle at first despite the high alcohol and the smoke comes through really well. However it shortly demands some water which tames it somewhat to reveals more of the marzipan sweetness and a little woodiness which appears in the form of some spiciness & coffee grounds. The finish is more of the smoke and some good hard candy as well as the citrus (lemons and limes but not orange but perhaps a moment or two of grapefruit). The finish is medium long and some hints of 90% cocoa chocolate emerges in the later moments but then the smoked malt re emerges.

Complex but stays within the Highland Park descriptors and an interesting variant to the official bottlings.

$100 and 150 bottles for the US branch of the Society.

Score 86 points

Part 2 of 4 featuring the excellent single cask single malts of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society of America. Samples kindly provided by the SMWS of A.

Please visit the Scotch Malt Whisky Society of America at http://www.smwsa.com/ for further information on their single cask bottlings.

Linkwood 28yo 1982 (53.9%, SMWS, Refill Hogs Head 39.83, +/-2012)

On the nose there are some very nice honeyed notes as well as some slight ‘greenish’ back ground notes (think cut grass but not cut flowers which can be bitter) but the latter dissipates quite quickly leaving the afore mentioned honey firmly in place. There are also some vibrant unlit cured tobacco notes (think of both tobacco and some sweetness). The taste is big and vibrant with all the aromas previously mentioned present however the greenish notes are not. Some nice malt, a bit of ‘meatiness’ and the sweet tobacco tie it altogether very nicely. This is very good and it’s not too dramatic one way or the other but sits firmly on solid center ground. The finish is much like the nose and the taste (Hurrah! -Great balance) and some fantastic lightly smoked malt (where did the smoke come from?) and still the honey holds on however the malt takes the gold medal here. Quite long and holds together well. Lashing of malt and then sadly it’s over.

More vibrancy than one would expect for a 28yo whisky and a real delight.

$180 and 120 bottles for the US branch of the Society

Score 89 points

Part 1 of 4 featuring the excellent single cask single malts of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society of America. Samples kindly provided by the SMWS of A.

Please visit the Scotch Malt Whisky Society of America at http://www.smwsa.com/ for further information on their single cask bottlings.

Forty Creek (40%, OB, ‘Small Batch Reserve’, Lot 105, 2008)

On the nose is slightly closed, actually quite closed, however there are some hints of rye, some tobacco (unlit) and juniper (lots from the cask). The taste is ever so gentle and then the rye notes rise up (gently, gently) and become very honeyed and very, very enjoyable. Quite sensational actually; a gentle riot of rye notes and honey. The finish is a good reflection of the taste with some hints of oiliness and lots of grain notes. Very chewy and smackingly good.

Yup, another winner from John Hall.

Score 86

Forty Creek (40%, OB, ‘Double Barrel Reserve’, Lot 240, 2010)

On the nose there’s some good diesel like grain notes (heavy oily graininess), some citrus followed by some good Marzipan and lumber yard. A little brown sugar compliments the Marzipan however the two ‘sweet’ notes don’t take over. The taste is very gentle rye, some excellent grains plus some really excellent notes from the cask and some gentle dryness. The rye notes are quite distinctive and tie everything together. The finish is also slightly oily but has the citrus, the brown sugar and the rye, everything is quite gentle and long.

Very easy drinking and moreish.

Score 85

Forty Creek (45%, OB, ‘Port Wood Reserve’, Lot 060, 2010)

Bottled at a significantly higher alcohol by volume at 45% and it involves PORT.How exciting; Canadian distillers don’t venture this far off the norm very often. On the nose there’s some nice fruit, quite rich and deep plus some of the now familiar grains (this is not a criticism) while still remaining very clean and soft. The taste is slightly meaty with fruit and a little herbaceous notes (very slight) some really good dryness and then, all of a sudden, some really concentrated fruit notes (think fruit leather) and then think more fruit leather. The finish is really big with the fruit leather and cask influence and very dry. Very chewy and very long. More chewyness.

Excellent by any standard.

Score 88 points

Forty Creek (40%, OB, ‘Confederation Oak Reserve’, Lot 1867, 2010)

On the nose there’s some really sensational crème brulèe (the hard sugar on top not the custard bit underneath) and gentle, soothing oak spice with a little menthol. The taste is once again quite gentle but once again very good with some rye notes and then a variety of oak spice notes which make the taste lean towards the dry side. There’s also some nice fruit notes (apricots etc, perhaps dried). All very nice actually. The finish is slightly creamy and lots of grain notes with the dryness as previously described taking hold and that the dominate descriptor until the end (which is actually quite long).

Easy drinking and very enjoyable.

Score 86

Stronachie 18yo (46%, A.D. Rattray, Batch Number 18/10-01, 2010)

On the nose there’s a good solid meatiness (think Bovril or such) with lots of good sherry and some nice spiciness. There’s also some really very lovely crème brulèe and when all are taken together they are very good and everything is in balance. Some slight hints if ‘green’ notes in the back ground but only light hints.  And maybe a little coconut. The taste is much as the nose although perhaps the meatiness and some nice cask influence (oak spice and cocoa powder) have taken the lead here somewhat; which is good. The sherry merrily skips along behind adding some class to the other two and quite frankly there’s not a foot put wrong here. The finish is cocoa and coffee beans and then a blast of malt followed by some of the meatiness’coffee/cocoa who have now teamed up for a grand finale. Sort of like the closing ceremony at London 2012. Not sure if the Spice Gorls fit in here but none the less a grand finish.

All very excellent and well done A. D. Rattray

$80

Please visit A.D. Rattray at www.dewarrattray.com Part 4 of 4 featruring the whiskeis of A.D. Dewar Rattray this week.

Longmorn 14yo 1996/2011 (46%, A.D. Rattray, Bourbon, C#97630, 304 Bts)

Another single cask bottling from A.D. Rattray bottled at 46% in place of cask strength however without chill filtration or the addition of colouring. On the nose there is some good cleanness (or perhaps a better term would be uncluttered), a combination of dusty and green malt (unusually), light honey and heather (now those two DO go together) all of which is followed by some very nice unlit tobacco notes (think of breaking up a cigarette and nosing the toasted unlit tobacco) and perhaps a hint of smoke. Deep down there’s also some nice fruit. All in all a very good collection of aromas but then again this is hardly surprising considering it’s Longmorn. The taste is slightly peppery with the malt and some very nice oak spice and dark chocolate; all very active and some what dry on the palate all followed some really good moments of fruitiness. Seductive and very nice. The finish is very much as the taste with loads of dry oaky notes combined with the ever so slight peat smoke, the malt and latterly the fruit. A big finish with lots of chewy malt that really has some legs to it.

To hell with the water; it’s good as it is.

$?

Score 89 points

Please visit A.D. Rattray at www.dewarrattray.com Part 1 of 4 featruring the whiskeis of A.D. Dewar Rattray this week.