Malt Messenger No. 86 – The Massive Edition
It has been quite a while since the last full Malt Messenger, and there is unsurprisingly a lot to fill you in on. I am just back from two and a half weeks of whisky and wine touring in Europe. My trip saw me pay visits to drinks events, wineries, distilleries and breweries in seven countries. The fruits of those tough labours will start to appear by the Fall.
Before we get on to the business of new whiskies, I have two events to tell you about. Firstly, tonight, we have an insane Single Grain Scotch Whisky tasting at the shop. We are opening a range of 7 whiskies with a collective range of 291 years… The full range retails for just under $5000, making the tasting a steal at $75. More details below and on the KWM Tasting Schedule page.
Another batch of whiskies from the Elements of Islay have just landed, three of which are exclusive to KWM in Calgary. On the exclusive side there is a Bowmore (Bw7), Laphroaig (Lp8) and a peated Bunnhabhain (Margadale, Ma2). Only 30 each of the Bowmore and Laphroaig, and just 18 of the Margadale are available. We also have exclusivity on the six bottles of North of Scotland 50 Year, which just arrived in-store. This is the first and only Official bottling of North of Scotland ever released. It is going to be tasted tonight at the shop.
The Compass Box Hedonism Muse will be arriving in-store on Wednesday. John Glaser’s latest opus, is a Blended Grain Scotch whisky built around an “exceptional parcel” of casks. We will be sampling the whisky at the Compass Box Hedonism Muse Launch on Monday!
There are two very limited releases of Springbank in the market. The latest batch of Springbank 12 Year Cask Strength is excellent, more sherried and peaty than is often the case. It is also all but sold out. We have less than a dozen bottles left, due in-store tomorrow. We have also recently sampled the 2017 edition of Springbank 21 Year. It too does not disappoint, very delicate and layered, it is less sherried than recent bottlings and more reminiscent of the legendary Springbank 21s from the early 2000s.
We have a dozen new Cadenhead Small Batch Whiskies coming in to store starting this week. There are some very interesting offerings including a 42 year old Glenlossie, a 1997 Mannochmore (we don’t see many independent bottlings anymore), a 1989 Bunnahabhain and a 20 Year old Vatted Islay Malt. We only received between 6 and 18 bottles of each, some of them won’t last long. We also have 7 Cadenhead 175th Anniversary Rums including a pair of rums at the 25 and 26 year old marks. More details on these rums and the Cadenhead whiskies below.
We have loads of Highland Park news in this newsletter, including latest limited annual release, Highland Park The Dark 17 Year. There are also some very old Highland Parks available. The 25 and 30 Year olds, which are increasingly rare, have both returned to market. So has the Highland Park 40 Year, which we haven’t seen in Alberta for more than 8 years… A decade after it was released this whisky is still excellent, and relatively reasonably priced for its age, compared to other distillery bottled 40 year olds. My folks and I visited the distillery a year ago, and I was reminded both how beautiful the distillery is, and how enchanting its old whisky is. We are so excited about the huge range of Highland Park whiskies currently available in Alberta, that it inspired me to write a Distillery in Focus profile. This is the first of its kind in a long while…
We have 4 new whiskies from The Whisky Agency. I met the owners of this indie bottler at the Limburg Whisky Fair in Germany a few weeks back. They are celebrating their 10th Anniversary this year, and they have some really exciting whiskies coming out. We should see them in Canada late summer or early fall.
There is also a reasonably priced Caledonian 40 Year single grain, the first Single Malt in Alberta from the Odd Society in BC, Two Brewers Yukon Single Malt Release 09, and the Thompson Brothers Organic Highland Gin. The Gin comes from the Dornoch Whisky Castle and Distillery, which is one of the best destinations for drinking whisky in the world. The gin is very small batch and exclusive to KWM for the timebeing.
There are also a couple of Special Offers available from KWM right now: The Amrut Peated Port Pipe cask bottled for Western Canada is on Sale for $100. It was $155. We also have a steal of a deal on the anCnoc 22 Year. It was $192, however we were offered a big discount to clear it out and have it pegged at $155. There are not many sherried, 22 year old distillery bottled single malts bottled at 46% available for $200 a bottle, let alone $155! Details below.
We also have some exciting (and tasty) exclusive Whiskey and Tequila from California bottler Savage & Cooke. There is a Bourbon, and an American Whiskey, finished in Red Wine Barrels, and a pair of Tequilas finished in ex-Chardonnay. And last but not least, there is the Macallan Edition 3. The third edition was produced with a Master Perfumer, and is in my opinion, the best in the series.
I hope this Malt Messenger finds you well. If you have any comments, questions or requests don’t hesitate to send me an email.
Slàinte!
Andrew
In This Edition
- Going with the Grain: Very Old Edition
- Scotch Malt Whisky Society: Single Cask Spirits Tasting
- New Whiskies from Elements of Islay
- Introducing: North of Scotland 50 Year
- Coming Soon Compass Box Hedonism Muse
- Two Very Limited Springbank Expressions
- New Cadenhead Small Batch Releases – Batch 19
- Introducing Highland Park The Dark 17 Year
- Older Highland Park Expressions Available
- Distillery in Focus: Highland Park
- New Whiskies from The Whisky Agency
- Xtra Old Particular Caledonian 40 Year
- Introducing: The Odd Society Single Malt
- Two Brewers Yukon Single Malt Realease 09 – PX Finish
- Special Offer on the Amrut Peated Port Pipe
- Special Offer on anCnoc 2000 & 22 Year
- New Exclusive Bourbon
- Introducing Macallan Edition 3
Andrew Ferguson
Kensington Wine Market
NEW Whiskies from Elements of Islay
3 KWM Exclusive Single Malts and a Blended Malt
This is only the second batch of whiskies from the Elements of Islay range to come to Canada. This time around we have Bowmore, Margadale (Peated Bunnahabhain) and Laphroaig. All three are semi-exclusive to KWM, and very limited in availability. Here are the details:
- Bw7 – 53.2% – Producer Description: “A full-on sherried Bowmore edition, matured in 4 sherry butts from 2001. Dark forest fruits, chocolate and citrus all fight for attention in this Bw7 release.” – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: An initial hit of guava and kiwi fruit is joined by Arbroath smokies. Dried mango follows, with sultanas and raisins intertwined with lightly aromatic smoke. Palate: Dense and creamy with background notes of seaside rock pools and beach bonfires. Toffee and salted caramel sit on top of layers of mango and blood orange. Finish: Long and juicy with soft hints of woodsmoke and citrus.” – $185 – Only 30 Bottles!
- Ma2 – 55.2% – Producer Description: “Our second release of Ma2 is a vatting of four first fill bourbon barrels from 2004. Margadale, the peated version from Bunnahabhain, shows a more intense side to the distillery’s sweet and rich notes.” – Producer Description: “Nose: Rich custard with aniseed, stem ginger and a background note of coastal smoke. Thicker notes of banana with toasted vanilla pods emerge. Palate: Thick and oily, accompanied by flavours of orange juice and cigar smoke. Oak sweetness and spice develops, creating tones of sherbetdipped liquorice. Finish: Clean and fresh. Grilled green apples slowly fade.” – $105 – Only 18 Bottles!
- Lp8 – 53.3% – Producer Description: “A marriage of a trio of ex-Madeira wine casks from 1998, Lp8 promises a beautifully sweet and smoky Laphroaig, giving a slightly softer edge to what is known as the typically medicinal Islay whisky.” – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: Brine and freshly laid tar are followed by prunes and dates. Classic medicinal notes of TCP mix with blood orange. Palate: A cloak of dense, dark fruit and sooty smoke is draped over zesty grapefruit and dry spices. Cardamon and nutmeg mix with darkchocolate-filled lime boiled sweets. Finish: More classic medicinal notes, with smoke and salt-encrusted mackerel skins to follow.” – $280 – Only 30 Bottles!
- Peat Pure Islay – 45% – Producer Description: “PEAT Pure Islay is the companion to PEAT, trading its feisty full strength for a more approachable and easy-sipping 45% ABV. Packed with Islay smoke, it’s still a go-to whisky for both cocktails and long drinks, as well as being an excellent dram to sit with long into the night. Created using whiskies from a handful of distilleries from across Islay, PEAT Pure Islay is a well-balanced and easy-drinking everyday whisky to keep all smoky dram fans happy.” – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: Orange peel and thick cut bacon with sea shells and smouldering coals. Palate: Hickory smoke and hints of Lapsang Souchong tea with salted caramel and dark chocolate. Finish: Sea spray and baked apple fade, leaving heavy smoke, truffle salt and sweet spice.” – $50
Introducing: North of Scotland 50 Year
The Only Ever Official Bottling from This Closed Grain Distillery!
This is the first ever official bottling of North of Scotlad single grain whisky, bottled after maturing “over 50 years” in Ex-Bourbon barrels. Only 6 bottles are coming to Alberta, exclusively to KWM!
North of Scotland 50 Year – 40.4% – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: Pecan nuts and Custard Creams with aromas of nectarine and raspberry. Classic notes of sweet grain – toffee, golden syrup and baked apple with a touch of polish and dusty cinnamon giving a hint to the age. Richer notes of crème caramel, blood orange and glacé cherries build. Palate: A thick creamy mouthfeel that becomes juicy after the second sip. Flavours of custard and dry spice – nutmeg and cinnamon – set you salivating. Notes of tarragon and oregano blend with blood orange and toasted hazelnuts. Finish: Walnut and toasted almonds with vanilla fudge linger and slowly fade, leading you on to the next sip. Comment: Well-aged spirit such as this is a rare and incredible treat. The classic sweet notes found in many grain whiskies have been tempered by the time in good wood.” – $1600 – Only 6 Bottles for Alberta!
About North of Scotland (From the Producer)
“North of Scotland was founded in Cambus, Alloa in 1957 by George P Christie. He bought a brewery and converted it to produce whisky, reopening by 1958. Along with grain whisky, he also produced malt whisky under the name Strathmore. However, the malt didn’t last long due to a huge demand for his grain whisky, and the pot stills were removed in 1959 to make way for a bigger mash tun.
“By the 1970s demand for grain had begun to diminish, and following the deaths of the distillery’s directors, Christie closed the North of Scotland for good in 1980. The site was sold to DCL, a forerunner of Diageo, who transferred the equipment to nearby Cambus distillery and converted the buildings into warehousing. Today, it is used as a bonded warehouse.”
Coming Soon: Compass Box Muse
Limited Edition “Exceptional Mysterious Grain Scotch Whisky!”
The latest limited release from Compass Box is Hedonism: The Muse, a Blended Grain Scotch Whisky built around an “exceptional” mysterious old grain whisky. The whisky has been bottled at 53.3% with a label designed by Compass Box as a tribute to the roll women play in the industry, especially at Compass Box. Just a dribble over 3,000 bottles were produced with only a tiny fraction of this coming to Canada!
John Glaser’s Description: “When we recently discovered a cask of exceptional aged grain whisky of unknown origin in the spectrum of flavours of a Hedonism whisky, we were inspired once again to go back to where it all started. This time, the label design reimagines the woman portrayed at the centre of all our Hedonism labels – the first woman, as far as we know, ever to feature on a Scotch whisky label. Women now make up the majority of our team here at Compass Box, which is unusual in our industry. This diversity of perspective makes us, I believe, a better business. Hedonism, The Muse combines this single cask with other rare and remarkable grain whiskies of varying ages from four distilleries to create something we believe is utterly compelling; a whisky that has all the flavour hallmarks of our classic Hedonism, with even greater depth and intensity. We invite you to join us, in this, our toast to women in whisky.”
Compass Box Hedonism: The Muse – 53.3% – Producer Tasting Note: “Aromas and flavours reminiscent of vanilla, marzipan and honey. Full on the palate, round and with a very sweet impression. Very long finish that echoes the vanilla and marzipan.” – $375
Two Very Limited Springbank Expressions
Of 12 and 21 Year Olds…
The semi-annual release of Springbank 12 Year Cask Strength is always in high demand and short supply. It also rarely disappoints. The current release is no exception, peatier and more sherried than recent releases, but still layered and complex. 180 bottles have come to Canada. KWM being the World’s only Springbank Society Embassy, other than Campbletown, got a good quantity of that, but we are down to just 24 bottles remaining, and they won’t last. The 21 Year is the 2017 edition, and it is in my humble opinion the best bottling of 21 year in several years. It is reminiscent of the legendary Springbank 21 Year olds from the early and mid-2000s.
- Springbank 12 Year Cask Strength– 56.3% – Matured in 70% Sherry & 30% Ex-Bourbon – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Nose: A very sweet beginning of glazed cherries, coconut and marzipan combined with soft notes of treacle, cloves and honeycomb. Taste: A beautiful balance between vanilla and black pepper sitting alongside dark chocolate, cinnamon and liquorice with a delightfully delicate touch of smoke. Finish: The classic Springbank style emerges; dunnage warehouse notes and salty maritime flavours, accompanying cream crackers along with caramelised sugar.” – My Tasting Note: “Nose: round sherry notes, chocolate, subtle peat and briny maritime notes; dried cranberry and sea salt caramel; clotted cream and ornage marzipan. Palate: big and firm; big sherry tones bash head-on into a firmer peat-smoke; classic engine-oily / butter-scotchy Springbank peat tones smash head on hold up well against the sherry onslaught: leather, dried cranberries and clove. Finish: long, rich and coating; oily peat and sherry slowly fade away. Comment: bolder and more than other recent releases of the Springbank 12 cask strength… me thinks they may have burnt the peat a little longer with this batch!” – $100 – Sold out in store, more available!
- Springbank 21 Year 2017 – 46% – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Nose: A creamy delight. Toffee and cereal notes interspersed with bursts of freshly picked strawberries and ripe watermelon. Palate: Robust and steadfast with a dry, creamy oiliness. Sugared almonds are heavily present as well as a dash of cinnamon. Finish: Creamy with an evolving length which coats the mouth and finally gives up its peaty origins.” – My Tasting Note: “Nose: creamy and buttery with orchard and stone fruits; crème brulee and creamed honey; milk chocolate with toffee, sea salt caramel and clean smoke. Palate: creamy, honeyed and buttery; more crème brulee, tarte tatin, and clean ashy smoke and smouldering cigar tobacco; more salted caramel, dried apricots, peaches in cream and creamed honey; savoury, maritime and layered. Finish: long, coating, fruity and creamy; more clean ashy smoke, crème brulee, creamed honey and layers of fruit. Comment: this is one of the most beautiful and complex releases of Springbank 21 year in years; reminiscent of the releases from the mid-2000s.” – $375 – Sold out in store, more available!
New Cadenhead Small Batch Releases
Batch 19 – 10 Single Malts, 1 Blended Malt & 1 Single Grain
There is a lot of interesting stuff in the 19th Batch of Cadenhead Small Batch whiskies. We have just 6 -18 bottles of each. Most of the whiskies are in the 20-25 year range, with some very reasonable pricing, when you consider where Whiskyflation is taking us these days. Look for many of these whiskies to open in up-coming KWM whisky tastings. The bottling details and price for each are available below, as is the producer’s tasting note. The whiskies will begin trickling into the store next week.
- Cadenhead Small Batch Dufftown 2007 – 56.8% – 10 Year – Hogshead – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: Buttered toast, corn syrup then pine nuts. Palate: Orange fruit sweets, barley sugar and pear drops come through. Finish: The nutty flavours from the palate come to the front again and some fresh grassy notes too” – $130 – Only 18 Bottles
- Cadenhead Small Batch Glen Grant 1992 – 45.9% – 24 Year – Hogshead – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: Initial fresh grassy notes, citrus then exotic fruit syrup. Palate: Initial sweet tablet and butterscotch. Grape juice and peardrops also present. Finish: Toffee meringue, vanilla fudge, lemon meringue pie with clotted cream.” – $235 – Only 6 Bottles
- Cadenhead Small Batch Glenburgie 2004 – 54.7% – 13 Year – Hogshead – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: Initial zestiness with lime juice, fresh apples, freshly cut grass but a slight cajun spice lurks underneath. Palate: Toffee, buttery biscuit base and pear skin. Finish: Quite sweet and dry with Demerara sugar, and banoffee pie.” – $140 – Only 12 Bottles
- Cadenhead Small Batch Glengoyne 1996 – 52.9% – 20 Year – Hogshead Finished in Chateau Laffite (2009) – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: Sweet fudge, raisins, sultanas, banana fritter. Palate: Rich buttered toast, croissants with strawberry cream sweets. Finish: Quite meaty. Beef jerky, bacon fries and bramble jam.” – $200 – Only 12 Bottles
- Cadenhead Small Batch Linkwood 1992 – 50.9% – 24 Year – Hogshead – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: Mint leaves, pencil shavings, aniseed, light dunnage warehouse. Palate: Coconut, highland toffee, bung cloth and dunnage floor present. Finish: going back to nose with fresher notes and lemon zest.” – $235 – Only 12 Bottles
- Cadenhead Small Batch Pulteney 2006 – 55.8% – 11 Year – Hogshead – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: Toffee popcorn, cereals, barley sugar. Palate: black pepper, haggis crisps, cardamon pod. Finish: hint of red liquorice, banana loaf and marshmallow.” – $130 – Only 18 Bottles
- Cadenhead Small Batch Strathmill 1993 – 50.3% – 24 Year – Hogshead – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: very fresh, mint choc chip ice cream, lemon juice. Heather also comes through. Palate: clotted cream, toffee meringues, golden syrup, black cherries. Finish: sweet honey, icing sugar, liquorice with coffee beans.” – $235 – Only 12 Bottles
- Cadenhead Small Batch Bunnahabhain 1989 – 42.6% – 27 Year – Hogshead – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: light maritime notes, seaweed and caramel. Palate: The nose continues onto the palate with saffron, orange oil and vanilla pods. Finish: Marzipan, brazil nuts, butterscotch angel delight give a nice sweet finish.” – $370 – Only 6 Bottles
- Cadenhead Small Batch Mannochmore 1997 – 52.7% – 20 Year – Hogshead – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: Linseed oil, beeswax, lime cordial, cooking apples. Palate: Gooseberry, barley water, meringue. Finish: poached Pears, candied ginger, salty.” – $195 – Only 6 Bottles
- Cadenhead Small Batch Strathclyde 1989 – 46.0% – 28 Year – Barrel – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: Cinnamon dominates with white chocolate coming through in the background. Palate: Cinnamon continues in the palate followed by brown sugar and caramel. Finish: Chocolate fudge, cardamom the a fresh minty note comes through.” – $200 – Only 6 Bottles
- Cadenhead Creation 1997 Vatted Malt – 45.2% – 20 Year – Hogshead – Producer Notes: “A vatting that was put together in 2009 containing Springbank, Longrow and some speyside and highland drams like Glen Moray, Glengarioch for example.” – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: a Nose: Apple crumble, lemon drizzle cake and a cigar box aroma in the background. Palate: Very fresh with Scottish strawberries, kiwi fruit and creme brûlée. Finish: light smoke builds up, oak smoked cheddar and toasted marshmallow.” – $175 – Only 6 Bottles – Strictly 1 per customer!
- Cadenhead Small Batch Glenlossie 1975 – 44.3% – 42 Year – Hogshead – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: Butterscotch, marmalade, marzipan, coconut oil. Palate: rich Carrot cake, sticky toffee pudding, amaretti biscuits. Finish: Candy floss, Manuka honey and brazil nuts.” – $835 – Only 6 Bottles – !!!3 LEFT!!!
Introducing Highland Park The Dark 17 Year
The Latest Annual Limited Release – Matured in 1st Fill Sherry Seasoned European Oak
This new limited edition Highland Park has been bottled at 52.9% after maturing in First Fill Sherry Seasoned European Oak casks.
Highland Park The Dark 17 Year – 52.9% – Matured in First Fill Sherry Seasoned European Oak – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “FLAVOURS: “Dried fruits | Cinnamon | Toasted almonds | Light peat | Cedar wood | Fruitcake | Light smoke”. – $450
Producer Description: “THE DARK is a rich and powerful expression of Highland Park, matured in sherry seasoned European oak casks to deliver a distinctively deep flavour.This special release of 28,000 bottles shares the story of the noble Viking warriors who are our ancestors, of our contrasting island seasons and of the intense balance of our whisky.
“It is a celebration of autumn and winter on Orkney; a time to escape from the wild weather outside and gather together with friends and family, sharing long nights of conversation and laughter around the table, around the fire. Presented in a beautifully embossed black glass bottle, the serpent dragon design takes its inspiration from the great Norse sagas and embraces both the high sun of summer solstice and the low sun of winter solstice – the polar opposites of our island seasons – while the runic writing reflects the ancient carvings of our Viking ancestors, here on Orkney.”
Older Highland Park Expressions Available
25, 30 and 40 Year Olds, Plus Two Orcadian Vintages…
It has been almost a decade since we last saw the Highland Park 40 Year. It was originally released in 2008 and for a brief shiny period it was a hit. But nothing last forever, especially old whisky. For the last 8 years Highland Park 40 has been available globally, but not in Canada. I had the opportunity to sample it in the last year at the distillery. It is still just as stunning a malt as it was when first released a decade ago. Back then the Highland Park 25 and 30 year olds were almost “everyday” whiskies… Well times have changed, in the era rampant “Whiskyflation”, not only have the prices soared for the 25 and 30 year olds, but they are also only periodically available. The 40 year is available now, but for how long, no-one can say!
There are also two even rarer vintage Highland Parks available. Only one bottle each of Highland Park Vintage 1970 and 1976. Both have good reviews from Serge @WhiskyFun.
- Highland Park 25 Year – 45.7% – Distiller’s Description: “The remarkable complexity of our 25 Year Old single malt whisky owes a great deal to its maturation in a high proportion of the finest quality first-fill, sherry seasoned European oak casks.” – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Dark chocolate | Fudge | Heather honey | Nutty toffee | Dried fruits.” – $765
- Highland Park 30 Year – 45.7% – Distiller’s Description: “Maturation in refill Sherry seasoned casks prevents oak from dominating the flavours of the whisky as it would if first-fill casks were used. This allows our robust and oily new make spirit to gently mature over an extended period of time, delivering a full-on aromatic peat flavour with a surprisingly sweet finish.” – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Nutmeg | Dark chocolate orange | Aromatic peat smoke | Sticky toffee pudding | Sea salt.” – $960
- Highland Park 40 Year – 48.3% – Distiller’s Description: “First released in April 2008, HIGHLAND PARK 40 Year Old is batched in very small quantities with only 10 casks selected for each bottling – it’s the culmination of years of whisky-making knowledge and experience.” – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Soft dark fruits | Nutmeg | Sun-dried orange zest |Dark chocolate | Vanilla essence | Aromatic peat smoke.” – $4000
- Highland Park 1976 – 49.1% – American Oak Sherry Butts & Hogsheads – Distiller’s Description: “The last expression of the Orcadian Vintages, the 1976 debuted in 2011. This single malt whisky was laid down to mature just THREE years before Highland Park released its first proprietary bottling. Bottled at 49.1% ABV., the 1976 Vintage is taken from a total of 13 casks, a mix of sherry butts and hogsheads, to create 893 bottles of a distinctly Highland Park whisky with a softer finish.” – “Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Nose: Light, fresh fruit (melon and mango) and freshly cut, resinous wood. A wonderful butter hint arrives late, then the classic heather sweet note. Palate: Very floral to start, reminiscent of the heather fields of Hobbister Moor in bloom, marzipan and coconut, and ending in a honey coated almond. Finish: Lingering notion of balance between wood and cream, neither in the ascendancy, smooth violet softens the finish.”- $5500 – Only 1 Bottle in Alberta!
- Highland Park 1970 – 48% – Refill Sherry Butts & Hogsheads – Distiller’s Description: “Specifically chosen by Whisky Maker Max McFarlane in 2010, the whisky has been created from seven casks which were laid down with new make spirit in 1970. All were refill casks comprising both butts and hogsheads, producing a total of just 1,800 bottles at natural cask strength of 48% ABV.” – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Nose: The 1970 Vintage gives the signature honey sweetness you would expect from Highland Park. A burst of caramelized pineapple quickly followed by a citrus kick from lemon peel, oak notes come through followed by the scent of spicy woodsmoke. Palate: An intriguing mix of vanilla and coriander seeds, time in the glass brings hidden toasted peat smoke and cedar wood to the top. Finish: A satisfyingly long, sweet and spicy flavour hangs on the palate before the palate dries, making a long finish with exceptional balance.” – $6500 – Only 1 Bottle in Alberta
Distillery in Focus: Highland Park
One of Scotland’s Oldest and Most Remote Distilleries!
Highland Park has one of the biggest ranges of any distillery in Scotland. In addition to the six whiskies featured above, there are an additional 10 distillery bottlings currently available in Alberta. And this isn’t even touching the Duty Free releases. So it is high time to shed some light on this mysterious northern distillery with proud Viking roots.
There is more than one version of the founding of Highland Park Distillery. The one the distillery clings to is the one built around the colourful Magnus Eunson. Magnus was a Church officer and butcher by day, and apparently a whisky smuggler by night. One story surrounding Magnus involves a close call with the exciseman, in which Magnus hid his barrels of whisky in a church under a dark cloth and coffin. When the government man arrived a crowd of people surrounded the coffin as in mourning. Magnus is said to have whispered “the pox” and that was all the official needed to hear. Eventually the taxman caught up with Magnus and he and the distillery were forced to take out a license to distill.
A more plausible story surrounds an Orcadian businessman named David Robertson who might have founded the distillery in 1798 under the name Rosebank. It was later renamed Kirkwall after the Orkney capital it gazes down onto, and only later Highland Park. In this telling of the story, the distillery is built on the site where Magnus Eunson may have been distilling illicitly in the decades before. In 1816, John Robertson, an Excise Officer, took over the distillery. Curiously, it would be another decade before the distillery was granted a license to distill. Funny how power corrupts.
The Borwick family acquired the distillery and its license in 1826. They would operate it, albeit in a deteriorating state, until 1876 when it was acquired by William Stuart of Stuart & MacKay, owners of Miltonduff Distillery. That same year the distillery’s whisky was exported to Norway and India. In 1885 Stuart went into partnership with James Grant of Glenlivet Distillery. Ten years later Grant acquired the rest of the distillery, and doubled its capacity in 1989. It remained in his hands until acquired by Highland Distillereis in 1937. Highland Distilleries would eventually become part of the Edrington Group in 1999.
In 1979 the distillery’s whisky began being sold as a single malt in earnest, and sales began to take off. In 1986 the distillery opened a visitor’s center, one of the earliest in the industry, and regarded at the time as one of the finest. In the decades that followed the distillery’s fame and range grew. In 2008 they launched a 40 year old expression, one of but a few distilleries with a regularly available whisky of that age!
Highland Park is one of just a handful of distilleries with its own malting floor, and this is very important to the distillery’s flavour profile. All Highland Park expressions are peated, but more delicately so than most other moderate to heavily peated whiskies. There are two reasons for this. Firstly, all of the peat burned for Highland Park is done at the distillery. Every batch of spirit (with a few exceptions), is made from a blend of 80% unpeated malt from the mainland, and 20% peated malt, floor malted at the distillery. Secondly, and most crucially, the peat burned by Highland Park is sourced from Hobbisters Hill on Orkney island. The Orkney islands, unlike the mainland of Scotland, have never had trees, and as such their peat lacks the lignum which makes mainland peated malt smokier. Islay peats are exposed to more marine vegetation and as such produce malt with tarry tones owning to more creosol. Orkney peat is composed almost exclusively from grass, moss and heather, and produces whiskies with more delicate and floral smoke.
The official bottlings of Highland Park are primarily built around whiskies matured in Ex-Sherry casks, a fact the distillery puts great pride in. Sherry seasoned barrels cost 10-15 times as much as Bourbon seasoned ones. The distillery has only filled either American or European oak sherry sherry seasoned casks since 2004, but does also refill casks. I have long been a big fan of the distillery, and its whiskies, especially those in the 18 years of age and up range. The distillery is one of the most beautiful and interesting in Scotland and well worth the trek up to the Orkney islands.
The following Highland Park whiskies are currently available in Alberta, in addition to those in the two sections above:
- Highland Park 10 Year “Viking Scars” – 40% – Producer Description: “VIKING SCARS pays tribute to our ancestors’ enduring influence on Orkney and the value they placed on skilled craftsmanship and a steadfast work ethic.” – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Citrus fruits | Vanilla | Peppery spices | Heather peat | Light smoke” – $63
- Highland Park 12 Year “Viking Honour” – 43% – Producer Description: “The heart and soul of Highland Park, VIKING HONOUR is a perfect harmony of aromatic smoky peat, sweet heather honey and rich fruit cake.” – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Heather honey | Rich fruitcake | Winter spices | Seville oranges | Aromatic smoky peat” – $70
- Highland Park 18 Year “Viking Pride” – 43% – Producer Description: “A perfect expression of harmony, complexity and refinement, VIKING PRIDE combines honey sweetness with delicious hints of cherries wrapped in chocolate, and subtle top notes of aromatic peat smoke.” – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Cherries | Dark chocolate | Toffee | Marzipan | Heather honey | Aromatic peat smoke” – $195
- Highland Park 21 Year – 47.5% – This was originally a duty free release. In 2009 it was named “Best Single Malt of the Year” by Whisky Magazine’s “World Whisky Awards” – 88pts Serge @ WhiskyFun (2015): “This is well the most recent 21 that had been reissued at a proper strength. Sadly and unless I’m mistaken, this expression is no more. An earlier 21 at 40% had been very good but a little weak (WF 86) while the previous version at 47.5% (circa 2007) had more power (WF 88). Colour: gold. Nose: rather wonderful, aromatic, orange-y, blossomy, and appropriately honeyed. Some hay, the faintest smoke, a wonderful slightly mentholated sherriness, a touch of fudge, and above everything, quite some tobacco. Entering a cigar shop where they’re pouring Assam tea. Also a lovely beeswax. Doesn’t quite feel like 47.5%, though, it’s a tad milder than that. Mouth: perfect creamy honey and soft spices, you’d think this some much earlier HP (early 1960s). Baked apples, oranges, dried apples, then it’s black tea galore, earl grey, quite some cinnamon, a feeling of cedar wood, cloves, more cinnamon… There’s some old oak at play here but we’re extremely far from any dull plankiness. Pu-erh tea. Finish: rather long, a notch bitter in a good way, then more and more honeyed with a layer of strong black honey. The oak’s back in the aftertaste, also black raisins. Good news, some say black raisins purify your blood, is that true? Comments: a rather tense HP, while indeed, some sides remind me of older official bottlings, such as the dumpies with black round ‘LP’ labels. SGP:651 – 88 points.”- $330
- Highland Park Magnus 2017 – 40% – Producer Description: “A whisky crafted in the old way by a new generation of Vikings, MAGNUS bears the soul of our Viking ancestors and the name of just one – our founder, Magnus Eunson.” – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Lemon | Vanilla sponge cake | Caramelised pineapple | Aromatic peat smoke | Sweet violets” – $45
- Highland Park Dark Origins – % – Producer Description: “Rich mahogany in colour, this latest addition uses twice as many first fill casks than in the HP12 resulting in richer flavour.” – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Sherried spice and ripe bananas with tasted hazelnuts and baked apple combine with a well balanced, dry peat mellowing out to maraschino cherries and finally warm dark chocolate on the palate.The finish is enduring sweet smoke.” – $100
- Highland Park Valkyrie – 45.9% – Producer Description: “According to the old Norse sagas, for Viking warriors, death was not an end but a glorious beginning. And it began with the Valkyries…” – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Green apples | Sun-ripened lemons | Oriental spices | Vanilla | Preserved ginger | Dark chocolate | Salty liquorice | Warm aromatic smoke” – $105
- Highland Park Full Volume – 47.2% – Producer Description: “FULL VOLUME is a perfect illustration of the fine skills of our Master Whisky Maker, ensuring that every individual wave of flavour finds its perfect place in the beautifully harmonised final spirit.” – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Vanilla | Coconut | Mango | Pineapple | Cedar Wood | Lemon peel | Vanilla pods | Light smoke” – $135
- Highland Park Ice – 53.9% – Producer Description: “ICE EDITION represents a very special two-part bottling, celebrating the Viking sagas recorded in the oldest recorded Norse poems, the Poetic Edda.” – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Fresh pineapple | Mango sorbet | Root ginger | Peat smoke | Vanilla | Aromatic spices” – $435
- Highland Park Fire – 45.2% – Producer Description: “FIRE EDITION represents one half of a special two-part bottling, celebrating the great sagas of the Viking age recorded in the oldest Norse poems, the Poetic Edda.” – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Red fruits | Vanilla custard | Cinnamon bark | Chocolate | Light smoke | Dried citrus peel | Damsons” – $440
New Whiskies from The Whisky Agency
Four New Whiskies, All of Them Excellent!
There are four new Whisky Agency whiskies bottled for Canada. Here are the details along with my tasting notes. The glasses on the Bunnahabhain label are an inside joke between Heads & Tails and The Whisky Agency:
- The Whisky Agency Ben Nevis 1996 – 47.2% – 21 Year – Hogshead – Andrew’s Tasting Note: “Nose: very creamy, English Breakfast tea with honey, scones with clotted cream and raspberry jam; minty, loads of berry fruit, marmalade and marzipan. Palate: creamy and toasty; more English Breakfast tea with honey, marmalade on toast and berry fruits; caramel, vanilla bean, Demerara sugars and decadent spices. Finish: coating and creamy with late malt; the clotted cream on scones returns with floral tea notes, honey and berry fruits. Comment: this is a pretty and elegant whisky; sweet and fruity; lots of character and no rough edges. – $260
- The Whisky Agency Blended Malt XO – 44.2% – Matured in a Sherry Butt – Extra Old, but No Age Statement – Andrew’s Tasting Note: “Nose: rich, sherried and leathery; jammy with loads of fruits: Sunrype Fruit Bars, strawberry and raspberry jam; bacon dipped in dark chocolate with a hint of sea salt. Palate: dark chocolate sea salt caramel tarts, and chewy bacon dipped in chocolate; sweet pedro ximenez sherry and a touch of nuttier oloroso; subtle peat, Christmas cake, old leather and loose leaf tobacco. Finish: rich, fruity and spicy; fading Christmas cake, gentle peat, sherry and sea salt infused chocolate. Comment: another probably ex-Edrington stock blended malt; dangerously drinkable.” – $200
- The Whisky Agency Bunnahabhain 1989 – 40.4% – 28 Year – Hogshead – Andrew’s Tasting Note: “Nose: wow, this is my jam; creamy, old, antique-y, loads of tropical fruits; floral with a hint of the sea and sandy beached on a sunny day; white chocolate Hershey’s Kisses, cranachan and Earl Grey tea crème brulee; Palate: waxy, creamy and floral; loads of tropical fruits: melons, flambéed banana, sliced mango, ripe papaya and even some kiwi fruit; loads of honey and beeswax and more cranachan; more vanilla and creamed heather honey; silky, so many layers, even some savoury salty tones and possibly a whiff of smoke? Finish: creamy, floral and toasty; sweet, more honey, vanilla and tropical fruits; silky, elegant and sublime. Comment: this is a beautiful older malt, with the profile of a much older whisky; it would be dangerous to leave me alone with a bottle like this!” – $365
- The Whisky Agency Orkney 2002 – 51.7% – 15 Year – Hogshead (Probably Sherry) – Andrew’s Tasting Note: “Nose: creamy, honeyed and floral; a surge of Old English Butterscotch and Werther’s Original; some soft oily peat and Manuka honey; very floral, sliced ginger, clean smoke and maritime coastal notes. Palate: creamy, lush and floral; firm maritime tones and crisp clean smoke; bags of honey, dried apricots, cantaloupe and mandarin orange; tarry with Dutch licorice, fennel seeds and cigar ash; leathery with burnt orange marmalade and firm sherry; more Old English Butterscotch and Werther’s caramels. Finish: firm, coating and leathery; more honey, Dutch licorice and ashy cigar smoke. Comment: this is an enigma, elements of both American oak and sherry; another clue that it is ex-Edrington stock? Highland Park matured in ex-American oak sherry seasoned wood!” – $210
Xtra Old Particular Caledonian 40 Year
Very Well Priced 40 Year old Scotch Whisky!
It is not that we don’t like Douglas Laing whiskies, far from it, we just don’t like dealing with the old importer. We have been pushing for a change in Alberta for a number of years, and on a positive note a number of Douglas Laing brands are now coming through a different agency. Hopefully in time that will also be the case for Old Particular, Big Peat and more relevant to this email Xtra Old Particular. Having said that a deal is a deal, and we couldn’t resist the price on the Old Particular Caledonian 40 Year.
Xtra Old Particular Caledonian 40 Year – 55.1% – Distilled April 1976 – Bottled June 2016 – Refill Hogshead – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: maple syrup, sweet and distinctly spiced: ginger style – plus late citrus. Palate: think mature Americana, incredibly sugary with corn, oil and vanilla. Finish: with a surprising length for a grain – all those flavours create a medley.” – $550
About Caledonian Distillery: (ScotchWhisky.com)
Caledonian was, for several decades, the largest distillery in Scotland. It initially housed one Coffey still, which James Grant described as ‘the greatest still in Scotland’ in Old and New Edinburgh, Vol. 2 in 1882. The distillery also produced an Irish-style grain whisky distilled in two large pot stills, a style revered among blenders at the time for its consistency. Some old parcels of Caledonian have been bottled as a single grain by indie bottlers in recent years. It has never been bottled as a single grain, save for a commemorative bottling for the 1986 Commonwealth Games held in Edinburgh, while Diageo released a 40-year-old, 1974 vintage under ‘The Cally’ label, as part of its 2015 Special Releases.
Introducing: The Odd Society Single Malt
New Craft Canadian Single Malt Bottled for Alberta
This is the first release of Odd Society Single Malt to come to Alberta, from the Powell Street distillery in East Vancouver. The distillery’s aim is to mesh old world distilling techniques with new world ingredients. (They get a tax break if they use BC grains…) This single malt has been bottled at 43%, made from Prince George BC Barley, and was matured in an American Oak ex bourbon Octave cask. Only 96 bottles for Alberta!
Odd Society Canadian Single Malt Alberta Release – 46% – My Tasting Note: “Nose: thick caramel, spicy-dill-rye-like tones, baked apple and freshly mowed green grass; vanilla icing sugar and peanut brittle. Palate: sweet, nutty and very toasty; a touch punchy, big spices and decadent toasted oak notes: creamed honey and vanilla icing sugar; more baked apple and orange. Finish: long, warm and spicy, more peanut brittle, baked apple and vanilla icing. Comment: it shows its youth in the heat it packs at 43%, still it isn’t sharp and the flavours are good; more reminiscent of a high-rye Bourbon than a single malt.” – $83
Two Brewers Yukon Single Malt Release 09
PX Sherry Finish
The 9th release of Yukon Single Malt from Two Brewers is a return to their “Special Finishes” program. We are very happy to see it bottled at 46%. Two Brewers was the Canadian Micro Distillery of the Year in the “2018 Canadian Whisky Awards”. Release 02 was also a PX Finish, but a different mash and in the distillery’s opinion a completely different whisky. It is a blend of whiskies from 4-8 years of age, with 40% 6 and 20% 8 years of age. The whisky was finished in PX Sherry for 7 months before bottling.
Two Brewers Yukon Single Malt Release 09 – 46%- 4 Year – Finished 7 Months in PX Sherry – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “The tawny colour and vibrant malt & oak aromas predict a complex sherry heart. The entry is crisp while a creamy core coats the palate, stone and tropical fruit emerge throughout. Plum, mango and kiwi are wrapped in sweetness for the gentle, lingering finish.” – $100
Special Offer: Amrut Peated Port Pipe
Was $155 – Now $100 – Only 16 Left!
The importer for Amrut has dropped their pricing on the Amrut Peated Port Pipe to clear it out. So we stocked up. This bottle typically sells for ~$155 – HOWEVER – we were able to grab a few cases of this awesome Malt at a special price! This pricing is only available for a limited time. Bottled from a single port pipe at 59% the entirety of this peated Indian single malt cask, is coming to Canada. Cask 2712 is a monster, made of peated malt and matured a little over 5 years, but in Bangalore India, so it drinks much older! Distilled in January 2011 and bottled in February 2016, 660 Bottles.
Amrut Peated Port Pipe Single Cask – 59% – Bottled Exclusively for Western Canada – My Tasting Note: “Nose: smoky bbq sauce and salsa; Dutch licorice, sea salt, cayenne infused dark chocolate, lightly burnt bacon, grilled prosciutto wrapped dates and figs; musty old wood, Late Bottle Vintage port wine and black tarry smoke. Palate: a pleasant but powerful assault of smoke, sea salt, malt, Dutch licorice and burnt bacon; leather and sharp tobacco make way for pineapple, melon and mango; more smoky bbq sauce and salsa; bacon infused dark chocolate, grilled figs and dates and firm wine tannins. Finish: long drying, coating and anesthetizing with a mild numbing sensation; the bbq notes, salt, fruit, smoke and leather linger long. Comment: this is the biggest, badest Amrut I’ve ever had, a monster; fans of Islay single malts like Supernova and Octomore will love this!” – Was $155 – !!!Now $100 While They Last!!!
Special Offer on anCnoc 2000 & 22 Year
22 Year Old Single Malt at 46% is Almost Unheard Of…
You gotta love it when the deals come to you… Just before Christmas it was the Mackinlay’s Shackleton, now it is a pair of anCnocs. We were given a $10 break on the anCnoc 2000 and close to $40 on the anCnoc 22 Year. Here are the details:
anCnoc 2000 – 46% – Matured in a mix of Oloroso Sherry & Ex-Bourbon – Andrew’s Tasting Note: “Nose: sweet and fruity with a mix of strawberry and black licorice Twizzlers; the whisky is delicate and floral, there are jujubes, some chewy malt and citrus notes. Palate: creamy with licorice, soft leather, spices and earthy notes; some honey with nutty sherried tones and more strawberry and black licorice Twizzlers; a touch of malt, candied citrus, more jujubes and dark spices: fennel, clove and anise. Finish: long, coating, leathery and spicy with more licorice and candied fruits. Comments: excellent value middle aged vintage whisky.” – Regular $100 – SAVE $10 – Special Price $90+gst
– Producer Description: “Matured predominately in American oak, ex-bourbon casks as well as Spanish oak, ex-sherry butts, anCnoc 22 Years Old displays complexity and a wealth of character but its long lasting rich, smoky finish sets this dram apart from the younger offerings.”
anCnoc 22 Year – 46% – Matured Ex-Bourbon & Ex-Sherry – Andrew’s Tasting Notes: “Nose: soft damp tobacco in an old leather patch, chocolate shavings on a piping cappuccino; some candied fruits, lemon drops and wine gums; some delicate malty-floral top notes emerge with some soft toasty oak. Palate: rich, fruity and very soft, wow this is really something; lots of chocolate with more soft leather and tobacco; more candied fruit and wine gums with some emerging mango, papaya and honey dew melon. Finish: an absolutely beautiful balance of both sherry and bourbon notes, the finish is long rich and spicy; finishes fruity and floral. Comment: I’m really caught off guard by this, wow it’s good!” – Regular $192 – SAVE $37 – Special Price $155+gst
– Producer Description: “anCnoc Vintage 2000 has matured in Spanish oak ex-sherry butts and American oak ex-bourbon barrels and has been bottled in its most natural form, neither chill-filtered nor coloured. As a result this dram may develop a light haze with the addition of water or if kept at a cold temperature. This haze is a natural characteristic of whisky that is non-chill filtered.”
– Silver Medal Whisky Magazine – 87 Martin Nouet & 86 Rob Allanson
Introducing Macallan Edition 3
Whisky Blended with a Master Perfumer
Macallan Edition 2 was good, I think Edition 3 is a step up, and the best yet in the series!
Macallan Edition No.3 – 48.3% – A collaboration with Master Perfumer Roja Dove. Roja and Bob Dalgarno crafted the whisky from a combination of European and American oak casks. – Andrew’s Tasting Note: “Nose: nutty, toasty and leathery with notes of firm oloroso; coffey beans and tobacco leaf; candied orange and ginger, cooked dates and figs wrapped in proscuitto; Manuka honey. Palate: soft and fruity; very decadent and sugary balanced by earthy dunnage warehouse notes; Panda brand licorice, molten brown sugar, nutty sherry tones and loads of dark dried fruits: raisins, grilled proscuitto wrapped dates and figs; dark milk chocolate and Jujubes; more candied ginger and orange. Finish: rich, fruity and quite lovely; sherried but far from over the top; nice balance. Comment: its good, very good; excellent structure, lots of layers and very well balanced; the higher proof does it justice!” – $172
Casks used in the creation:
- 1st Fill American Oak Hudosa Sherry Butts
- 2nd Fill European & American Oak Sherry Butts
- 1st Fill European Oak Tevasa Sherry Butts & Puncheons
- 1st Fill American Oak Ex-Bourbon Hogsheads
- 1st Fill European Oak Tevasa Hogsheads
- 1st Fill American Oak Ex-Bourbon Barrels
Thank You for Reading the Malt Messenger!
Contact & Disclaimers
If you have any whisky questions or comments concerning The Malt Messenger please contact me by e-mail, phone, or drop by the store.
All of the products mentioned in THE MALT MESSENGER can be purchased in store, over the phone or from our website at www.kensingtonwinemarket.com. All prices quoted in the Malt Messenger are subject to change and don’t include GST. In the case of discrepancies in pricing, the price in our in store point of sale will be taken as correct.
Thanks for reading the Malt Messenger.
Slainte!
Andrew Ferguson
Owner & Scotchguy
Kensington Wine Market
403-283-8000
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
www.kensingtonwinemarket.com
Kensington Wine Market
403-283-8000
