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Whisky expert Dave Broom, from Glasgow, says Scotland’s national drink has its’ origins in Ireland. He said there is “strong evidence” whisky may have been first developed in Ireland and brought to Islay, to be drunk at the seat of the High Kings (is he talking about the Macdonald’s?).
Broom said: “If you look at the north of Ireland and across to Islay, that’s the cradle of distillation… but the first record I found is in Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales.” Film producer Adam Park (The Amber Light), said research carried out for the film suggests the Beaton family, who were Irish physicians, (related to the Maclean’s) developed a vast international knowledge of botanical remedies. They were most likely to be instrumental in creating what would become the first Scotch whisky. “The Beatons were pretty amazing people, they travelled the world translating medical scripts and building their knowledge,” he said “They came to service of the High Kings and became experts in distilling spirit and added to it the plants and flowers that grew around them.” Let’s be fair here; the Beatons, whose family name appears as MacMeic-bethad and MacBeth, are believed to have first arrived on Islay in the 13th century at the time of the marriage between Aine O’Cathain and Angus Og MacDonald, Lord Of The Isles and also closely associated with the Maclean Clan. The Beaton family became hereditary physicians to the Scottish crown, serving Robert The Bruce and every subsequent Scottish king, while also providing medical knowledge to clan chiefs from the Western Isles to the Lowlands. Here we go – a spokesman for the Scotch Whisky Association said: “The earliest known record of Scotch Whisky production dates from the Exchequer Rolls of 1494, but it is likely the ‘Aqua Vitae’ was being produced long before this date. It is likely early development of distillation in Scotland and Ireland took place in parallel, ultimately leading to two distinct global industries.”
I have said numerous times, the Irish invented whisk(e)y. The first written account of distilling in Ireland comes from Kilkenny in the 14th century with the Red Book of Ossory and the Kilkenny Whiskey Guild are celebrating and highlighting this history. The Red Book of Ossory is a fourteenth century register of the diocese which is associated with Richard Ledred who was Bishop of Ossory, 1317/60. The volume contains copies of documents which would have been important for the administration of the diocese – constitutions and taxations, memoranda relating to rights and privileges, deeds and royal letters. The register is, however, best known for the texts of songs composed by Bishop Ledred for the vicars choral of St Canice’s Cathedral ‘so that their mouths be not defiled with theatrical, foul and secular songs’. It also contains a treatise on acqua vitae (whiskey to you and me). Richard Ledred is must be noted, is the notorious Bishop who went on to tackle what he considered the important issue of witchcraft. He chased Dame Alice Kyteler out of the country and burned poor Petronella de Meat, her maidservant, for witchcraft. Check out; http://whiskytours.scot/kilkenny-whiskey-guild-irish-whiskey-tour
Birthplace of Irish Whiskey. Ballykeefe Distillery is situated in Co. Kilkenny the heartland of Ireland, adjacent to its medieval capital, Kilkenny city. It is steeped in a historic heritage and tradition, holding the unique distinction of being the birthplace of Irish whiskey. It is from this area that the first written account of distilling in Ireland comes in 1324 in the Red Book of Ossory. The word “Whiskey” is an Anglicisation of the Gaelic phrase, uisce beatha, meaning “water of life”. https://ballykeefedistillery.ie/our-story/birthplace-irish-whiskey
I have great respect for David Broom, in a way, we agree that the Irish started whiskey and the Scots took it under their wing a century or so later. Why do I write these articles/blogs? Because I can. My life evolves totally around whisky, I buy and sell it, I discuss it, I write about it, I visit so many distilleries with my tour company – it’s in ma hoose it’s in ma blood! Why is our whisky blog called the ANGEL’S BLOG? Named after a few things really, the angel’s share; the amount of alcohol (whisky) that is lost to evaporation when the liquid is being aged in oak barrels. The angel’s share. My Dad; he has been an angel for some 60 years or so, liked a dram when he was with us (I was told by my Uncle Harry) and I believe he is still taking his share in that distillery in the sky. I write almost all of the whisky blogs, with a few being from friends around the whisky world now and then. Club Patron (it did used to be a club) is another Maclean, this time of the Charlie variety; Charles Maclean. We know Charlie well (cousin) early on Paul (McLean) asked Charlie if he wished to become a club member, his reply; “Yes and I will be your Club Patron”. And so it came to pass … you can find him here; https://whiskytours.scot/charlie. If you like a good read, an argument and a debate, take a look, there are tons of blogs waitin for you here; http://whiskytours.scot/whisky-blog-called-angels-blog PAUL MCLEAN Perth Scotland, also Kilkenny Ireland.
Wee note; notice the Irish Cowan’s whisky doesnee have an E
For a limited time only, get 10% off.
It’s 2020, it’s Rabbie Burn’s Birthday and we’re feeling generous, so we’re offering 10% off Smokehead Original and Smokehead High Voltage in our online store. It won’t be forever though, offer ends 31st January.
(As always – see website for full terms.)
Burns Night with Jim and Dennis
Glen Grant for Burns Night with Jim Murray and Dennis Malcolm
What did you do for Burns Night 2019? Did you spend it in the UK’s tallest building, sipping award-winning drams with arguably the world’s best-known and longest-standing whisky writer, and the master distiller in charge of crafting Scotland’s finest single malt? I did. Yep. Not sure how I’ll top that this year. In the meantime, let’s find out why Glen Grant 18 Year Old could be perfect not just for Burns Night but, to hear Jim Murray tell it, near-on perfect in general.
Two of Whisky Bible‘s most sought-after titles – Scotch Whisky of the Year and Single Malt of the Year (Multiple Casks) – were unified in one single malt whisky in 2019: Glen Grant 18 Year Old. Of which, Jim Murray said the following:
“This is so in tune and well balanced it is impossible to nail what leads and which follows. Instead, one is left mesmerised…” – and that’s just on the nose.
So what sets it apart from the competition? Well, for one thing, consistency.
Dennis Malcolm, Master Distiller at Glen Grant distillery:
I would never put Glen Grant’s reputation on the line with a single cask. They’re a snapshot, whereas I want to make a consistent product. As a result, I don’t nose like Jim does. I don’t have that kind of nose; I’m not looking for that kind of nuance. I know Glen Grant’s profile: fruit, nuts, spice. That’s what I’m looking for.
Jim Murray:
The first fifteen years of drinking whisky, it’s all discovery. It’s like having sex for the first time. It’s amazing. Now it’s like, ‘ah, have I got to do that again?’.
The first thing I do when I taste whisky is look for faults. I probe it for failure. Then I do it again, and again. With the Glen Grant 18, there are none. There’s a purity to it. It’s very elegant. It’s got a lot to do with the wood, I think.
Glen Grant 18 Year Old
Dennis:
When I started at the distillery as an apprentice cooper, I learned a lot about wood. That if you put good spirit in an exceptional cask, you might enhance it. If you put really amazing spirit in a not-so-good cask, you’ll ruin it.
Glen Grant is a vulnerable whisky, because it’s all American oak, primarily ex-bourbon, and primarily second-fill. There’s no sherry in it, and that means there’s nothing to hide behind.
Jim:
Yeah, it’s naked whisky.
I look for the best whisky in the world, and this one is always in the running.
Jim clearly likes a drop of Glen Grant, then. But would he drink it with his Burns Night supper?
Jim:
Never, ever drink whisky with food. Why on earth would you f**k up a whisky like that by drinking it with food? Drink it before or afterwards, after a black coffee, but never during. That’s what beer and wine are for. The spices in a haggis will destroy a whisky like [Glen Grant 18].
Haggis – anathema to nuance
Well then, that about sees us out, doesn’t it? If you want to ignore Jim and treat yourself to what he believes to be the finest Scotch single malt whisky on the planet, pick up a bottle here. Or if you’d rather follow his advice and pick up an alternative, Billy has waxed lyrical on multiple occasions on the relative suitability of wine, beer, sherry, whisky, gin and more. Our resident Master of Wine and head buyer at The Whisky Exchange, Dawn Davies, has also curated a list of 20-odd drams, any or all of which will see you happily through the evening. Slàinte!
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We’ve hand-picked our favourite bourbons that you need to try. Don’t miss an incredibly rare 23 Year Old from Pappy Van Winkle as well two classics from Blanton’s, 1792 Single Barrel and more!
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Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve 23 Year Old
Save £600
NOW £2,150.00
Matured in a first fill Oloroso sherry hogshead (American oak) for TWB Originals at cask strength 59.4% yielding 284 bottles. This unmissable malt boasts flavours of Dundee marmalade, cinnamon, honey and sweet sherry.
Buy – Balblair 10 Year Old – £60.00
Age before beauty? Not for this heavily peated malt – an Islay lover’s dream. Matured in a first fill bourbon barrel for TWB Originals at cask strength 59.7% yielding 235 bottles.The result is endless peat smoke aromas, sea salt and toasted vanilla oak.
Buy – Bunnahabhain Staoisha 6 Year Old – £45.00
Watch – TWB Orginals in YouTube
Planning permission has been granted for Ardgowan’s proposed site in Inverkip, on the banks of the River Clyde about 30 miles west of Glasgow, with construction set to begin in 2020. So in all honesty how can this be called a distillery release when said distillery HAS NOT BEEN BUILT! Nor even started! Max McFarlane, whisky maker for the yet-to-be-constructed distillery, said: “In our first release I wanted to produce a top-drawer blended malt and I believe that is what we have achieved. All the single malts going in are from first-fill Sherry casks, which is unique in the industry – it’s something I’ve always wanted to do.’” EH? Distilleries cannot launch a dram if the distillery does not exist, a blend at that. Coppersmith comprises whiskies sourced from unnamed Speyside and highland distilleries, all aged in first-fill Oloroso sherry casks, before being bottled at 48% abv. The whisky will be available in specialist retailers worldwide from 1 October and can be pre-ordered on the Ardgowan Distillery website, website before distillery … is this actually legal? McFarlane said the yet to be announced second entry in the Clydebuilt series will also consist of first fill sherry cask malts but sourced from different distilleries. Ardgowan’s first bottling, released earlier this year, was a 20 year old blended malt containing whisky that has visited the South Pole.
This “distillery release” is highland and Speyside by the way, NOT EVEN LOWLAND WHERE IT WILL BE BUILT!!! The Ardgowan Distillery will be sited on Ardgowan Estate, owned by Sir Ludovic ‘Ludo’ Shaw-Stewart, and which has historical ties to Robert the Bruce, who fought in the area twice, and Pocahontas – Michael Shaw Stewart, fifth Baronet of Ardgowan Estate married Eliza Farquhar in 1819, who was a direct descendant of the native American princess. Oh my God, will we be seeing the first Pocahontas whiskies? What are your thoughts on this? Should this be renamed Shipbuilders Shoulder? This makes a mockery out of whisky awards; The Ardgowan Distillery’s very first whisky “Expedition” has been awarded a gold medal in in the 2019 Scottish Whisky Awards. The 20-year-old premium blended malt won the Blended Malt 12 year and over category at the prestigious awards held in Edinburgh. I ASK AGAIN – HOW CAN A DISTILLERY WIN AN AWARD WHEN THERE IS no DISTILLERY? AND IT IS not THEIR OWN WHISKY! The exclusive dram – which was created specially by Ardgowan Chairman Willie Phillips – was ranked against its’ peers in a number of categories. Ardgowan Expedition 20 year old is a blended malt which includes classic single casks from upper Speyside and the northern highlands. The 600 bottle run also contains whisky which has travelled to the South Pole and back, carried by polar explorer Robert Swan OBE. By the way, this not April 1st. Is it me? Or are you in agreement? Come on SWA, make a ruling here.
Nikka Whisky Distilling’s Yoichi distillery in Hokkaido: The company is already limiting shipments as supply dwindles. (Photo by Takeru Goto)
Dwindling stock forces Japanese distillers to squeeze shipments
TOKYO — Nikka Whisky Distilling’s last aged products on the market will soon vanish from shelves as surging demand for Japanese whisky dries up casks across the nation.
Taketsuru 25 Years Old (Photo courtesy of Nikka Whisky Distilling)
The Asahi Group Holdings unit discontinued age-statement Yoichi and Miyagikyo single malts in 2015 because of short supply. Whiskies need to be aged for years before bottling, meaning that producers are now working off stock made when demand for Japanese whisky was much lower.
Nikka is also limiting shipments of non-age-statement Yoichi, Miyagikyo and Taketsuru, and is investing to expand production capacity for future years.
Suntory Holdings, another leading Japanese producer, has discontinued Hibiki 17 Years Old and now sells a limited range and quantity of age-statement whiskies. Kirin Holdings is only selling a portion of its offerings through limited channels.
Elijah Craig Barrel Proof “Batch C919” Kentucky Bourbon (750ml) ($59.99)
4.5/5 points, John Dover in thewhiskywash.com: “Stimulating the palate and the mind, Elijah Craig has crafted a spicy sipper that will awaken the drinker to the punchier side of the bourbon spectrum with its Barrel Proof distilling. Go in prepared and you will be rewarded with a refined drinking experience lodged firmly in the traditions that make bourbon the drink of choice for so many.” (12/2019)
Andrew Whiteley | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: January 09, 2020
C919 compared to B519 is an absolute monster. Tipping the scales at 136.8 proof it’s the highest proof Elijah Craig we’ve seen in over 3 years. The nose is full of spice box, petrichor, savory spices, thyme, fresh sliced green apples, and the sweeter notes of butter, cream and heavy caramel. It shares some aromatics with B519 that remind me of a cooperage – full of toasting oak – rather than a lumber yard of fresh sawn wood. The palate is an absolute beast. Packed with dark cocoa powder and sweeter milk chocolates. When you add in water drop by drop each splash looks like it’s creating an oil slick as the fat texture of the whisky comes crashing out of solution. The wood profile changes into more of a barrel house and a summer farmers market. The finish is essentially endless. If you want to tame this one, add lots of water. If you love your bourbon to be confrontational and maybe bite you back, leave it alone and enjoy the ride.
Stefanie Juelsgaard | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: January 09, 2020
This is the ultimate style of rich, silky smooth Bourbon with a pretty hefty kick of heat amplified by the barrel proof nature. Strong dark chocolate, clove, and coffee grounds prevail in this bottling, whereas the B519 has more of a sweet cream taste. A powerhouse whiskey like this at 12 years is a steal at $60. I guess the 200+ years of experience making Bourbon has given Elijah Craig the edge.
The wonderful Dornoch Distillery sits hidden on the main drag in the tiny town of Dornoch. Behind the majestic Dornoch Castle Hotel and its famous whisky bar sits one of Scotland’s tiniest and most exciting distilleries. Founded by brothers Simon and Phil, the distillery is completely contained in one tiny stone shed. While the brothers might not have the resources and capital of many of Scotland’s new distilleries, they do have an incredible vision and the unwavering support of the single malt-loving community. In that little shed a truly unique experiment is underway. The Thompsons are trying to make whisky the old way. The distillery was funded without any outside investment and pre-sales of the first casks were crowd sourced online. The contrast between extreme forward thinking and commitment to tradition makes the Dornoch Distillery one of Scotland’s most exciting new distillers bar none. We’ve got years before their malt is ready to go and in the meantime the brothers are distilling and selling an incredible malted gin and trafficking in some seriously delicious single casks. This HP is part of the great wave of unnamed Orkney that’s hit the market recently. They nabbed some of the very best and somehow offer it up at a reasonable price. Other bottlers offer versions of the same whisky for twice this price and none we’ve had taste as good as this. It’s got everything, balanced excellently. Delicate Orkney peat, bold malt, gorgeous maritime quality—a real island dream.
David Othenin-Girard | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: December 10, 2019
We’ve had some up and downs with Highland Park recently. We’ve secured some incredible old stock with the distillery name on it, but also had offers for no named stuff at ridiculously high prices. Needless to say we’re always game from some HP. It’s really one of the very best distilleries out there and these incredible ‘no name’ bottlings have been some of the very best values on the market today. Yet some of our suppliers feel comfortable charging well above what another no name might cost from another distillery. Of course, they’re looking at this like a business opportunity. They have high quality juice, that can be implied to be from one of Scotland’s great distilleries, and most people are probably willing to pay it, but we’ve mostly avoided these offerings since we’ve been securing ‘named’ versions in the $250-300 range consistently for the last two seasons. It wouldn’t make any sense for us to sell a similar product no name for the same price. These products must offer value. So we’ve generally passed on several casks due to the very high prices. But now it seems our supply of distillery bottlings is becoming more and more scarce. We had to say no to a 21 year old Hogshead this year from Old Particular due to the incredibly high price. And at the same time, our friends in Dornoch came knocking with this stunner. The fun labels poke fun at the new aggressive viking style of the distillery bottlings, but do nothing to prepare you for the awesomeness that’s inside the bottle. The nose is the ultimate coastal curiosity: Salty sea spray, coastal shrubs, crushed rocks, smoldering heather, floral peat, golden honey, ripe pears. Craggy rocks being battered by the ocean. Lots and lots going on, extremely layered and complex, but not brutish or explosive. One the palate the brown butter, wild honey, stewed grains, more peat. This is how I imagine gold tastes when it’s melted. More minerals more smoke, but not hard smoke. Soft sweet smoke. We’re not seeing anything on the market anywhere close to this caliber in this style. Nearly perfect.
Andrew Whiteley | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: November 23, 2019
HP20 is going to be delicious no matter what. At 150 bucks, it’s all the sweeter. This number is particularly interesting as it is a hogshead filled from same day vattings before it was sold off onto the independent market – a number of these casks have come up as Edrington has divested stocks, rumor has it, to pay for the budget sucking massive new Macallan distillery. It’s classically salty and has that beautiful medium intensity heather driven peat that the distillery is known for, although it shows most on the finish and not up front. Apricots and other stone fruits in varying levels of dehydration play across the entire experience from nose to palate and intermix beautifully with the floral smoke on the finish. Coming in at an even 50% ABV at cask strength, it’s a very sippable whisky neat. With a touch of water the oils come crashing out of solution as do the grain notes. The aromas suddenly explode with honeyed barley and a whole new drinking experience begins. An extremely good first showing from our new partners in Sutherland, the Thompson Brothers.
Jackson Lee | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: December 13, 2019
I cant tell if the stick figure on the bottle is going into battle or partying but either way, its capturing what Im getting from this unique Orkney single malt. I dig the label and I dig the juice. The nose gives off a pretty perfume of baked Bartlett pear, cinnamon, vanilla, toasted marshmallow, and sassafras. The palate provides that same baked pear profile combined with chocolate covered toffee with a full-bodied texture. The finish leaves you with a nice, spicy tingling sensation on the tip of the tongue with spicy cinnamon notes and as I begin to regain feeling a subtle juicy pear jelly belly note clings as the breath escapes. This is the kind of scotch I could see myself drinking all day in a ski lodge surrounded by friends.
