Compass Box “5th & Harrison II” K&L Exclusive Dual Label Limited Edition ~ Scotch Malt Whisky News
Compass Box “5th & Harrison II” K&L Exclusive Dual Label Limited Edition Scotch Malt Whisky (700ml)
The privilege of selecting a custom batch of Compass Box cannot be overstated. Only a handful of venues have ever been invited to participate in a collaboration with the great modern bespoke whisky maker. The blending and bottling of a K&L Exclusive Compass Box led by the illustrious John Glaser is one of our crowning achievements in terms of sheer quality. It took us almost 5 years from the moment we first approached the brand before they agreed to it. That whisky, 5th & Harrison, was a blend of old Caol Ila and sherried Glen Ord, a coupling for the ages. With killer price and a mysterious label -that were definitely NOT a drawing of any former K&L Spirits buyer- it sold out in just days for $180. Now the few bottles that remain fetch over $1000 at auction. Since then, so much has changed. John Glaser has handed the reigns over to a new generation of whisky maker and a new era of collaboration has blossomed.
K&L has a new location in Southern California and so much more. Nearly 10 years to the day that we began the process of creating 5th & Harrison, we’re ready to release a second custom batch bottled exclusively for K&L Wine Merchants by Compass Box. The act of blending whisky is one of the most gratifying and complex tasks I’ve had the incredible luck to perform. Blending whisky is not a materialistic endeavor that might be solved by wit and measure. The simple truth of blending is that 1+2≠3 and creating a whisky of great distinction and character is not as simple as just smashing three really good malts together. So, guided as it were, by the deft hand of Whisky Making Director and all-around splendid chap James Saxon, I embarked upon a supreme journey. We loved the original 5th & Harrison style and wanted to stay within that realm. James had an incredible array of wonderful old sherried and peated whiskies to choose from, but it was quickly narrowed down to a few lots. They had old Ardbeg, Highland Park, Caol Ila, Bowmore and sherried Glendullan or Tormore.
I wasn’t simply looking to recreate the prowess of the original in flavor terms. Instead, I felt we needed to focus on creating the same experience of unbridled value for your dollar. That immediately cut the potential of working with Ardbeg out of the question – despite the quality of the distillate, it’s not only difficult to integrate, but VERY expensive after 20 years of age. I’d assumed the same fate would hold true for the other Islay options, but after running the numbers, we found that we’d be able to use significant portions of Bowmore aged for almost 23 years in ex-bourbon. That product on its own would fetch many hundreds of dollars in today’s market.
With it we married a gorgeous first fill sherry butt of Glendullan of at least 21 years of age. This little-known distillery can offer some serious character and complexity if aged in quality casks. So little sees high value sherry it’s hard to generalize about the character, but this barrel was absolutely first rate. It brought out the deep tropical fruit and wild exotic side of the Bowmore. This original blend was supple and delicious -a 5th & Harrison redux if you will, but it didn’t really show the maturity of these two wonderful old spirits. In fact, the whiskies seemed to bring out the hidden youthfulness in each other, a noble trait, though now somehow masking some deeper complexities that the two exhibited apart. At James’ suggestion we began to explore the potential of encouraging a small amount of old rugged Caol Ila into the blend. This I also assumed would be cost prohibitive, but we forged ahead anyway.
After nearly two and half decades in refill American oak, the wild jagged spirit has smoldered into a dense singularity of salty ocean flavors. The feeling of boarding a weathered schooner, salt and tar covered, the captain’s pipe wafting as he steadies the wooden tiller. Whiffs of salted fish, sea spray and diesel smoke complete the harbor scene. Ultimately, this final note brought the new batch together perfectly by retaining the wild freshness but pinpointing both a base and top note that draws the deeper elements of the first two malts forward. The resulting blend is easily one of my favorite modern bottlings of Scotch in at least a decade. It exemplifies everything we are at K&L, providing a superior experience for an incredible price. I’ll attempt to do it justice here. The color is stunning hue of chestnut (1.2). The nose offers an incredible sense of the finest and oldest things -old teak, cordovan, salt encrusted rope, mango syrup, balsam, seaweed, bonfire, première eau and marmalade. On the palate the Bowmore shines at first offering salted tropical fruit, fried plantains in honey, grilled lemons.
Then our Glendullan adds wild nutty oxidized rancio, dense spices and freshly chopped dark chocolate. The finish brings a heavy dose of lemon oil, old wood, baked orchard fruit, apricot jam, salted almonds, camphor and smoldering tobacco. It doesn’t need a drop of water and certainly not more than that if you must. Bottled at extremely near cask strength 0.1-.2% to round out the labels and with no chillfiltration, coloring or other additives whatsoever. Today, to commemorate the expansion of K&L into new waters, we launch both 5th & Harrison II & Culver & Sepulveda. These two sister bottlings include the exact same juice, but each label celebrates these two wonderful cities that we call home. IN some comedic twist of fate, we’re able to offer these wonders – an old blended malt scotch whisky at the exact same price as the previous K&L/Compass Box collaboration from over a decade ago, a true triumph.
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