A Hidden-Gem, 12-Year-Old Speysider for a Steal
2009 Macduff 12 Year Old “Old Malt Cask” K&L Exclusive Single Refill Hogshead Cask Strength Speyside
Single Malt Scotch Whisky (750ml) ($54.99)
“…it’s an intriguing example of this under-the-radar distillery, and I love recommending it to open-minded, adventurous drinkers.” — David Othenin-Girard, K&L Spirits Buyer
One of the best features of our K&L Exclusive Cask program is the remarkable selection of affordable, aged Scotch whiskies that our buyers source on a regular basis, often from top-notch distilleries that remain known mostly to industry insiders and avid connoisseurs. Speyside’s Macduff falls under the Dewars/Bacardi umbrella, so it’s a rare sight under its own name in the independent market, but whenever we find a cask, it’s always one of a kind. This truly distinctive hogshead offers an outside-the-box experience for any Scotch fan, with a chameleon-like profile that changes dramatically from nose to palate, with or without water. It’s a lovely dram for those who like to challenge their own preconceptions, but it’s also more than reasonably priced and approachable enough to serve as a thrilling wild card in your regular bar rotation.
2009 Macduff 12 Year Old “Old Malt Cask” K&L Exclusive Single Refill Hogshead Cask Strength Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky (750ml) ($54.99)
K&L Notes: Macduff sits well under the radar in the single-malt world. The official bottling from the distillery goes by the name of Deveron—the river on which the distillery sits. The only Macduff the world sees comes from the indendent bottlers, and with the current ownership falling to Dewar’s under the Bacardi umbrella, it is a wonder we see any at all. Fortunately, this 12-year-old hogshead snuck away from corporate ownership and wound up in our hands. Bottled at 57.9% ABV without chill-filtration or coloring, it’s a beautiful malt highlighting sweet vanilla and rich fudge notes all with a bit of fruitiness to round it out.
David Othenin-Girard | K&L Spirits Buyer | Review Date: November 29, 2022
This weird and wonderful cask of Macduff is definitely the odd-ball of this year’s selections. We always have to have one. It will certainly be controversial, eliciting strong responses on both sides of the fence, but it’s an intriguing example of this distillery, and I recommending it to open-minded, adventurous drinkers. The color is pale straw. The nose is an interesting mix of porridge and vanilla bean. Soft, not-so-sweet baked pastries and a subtle industrial plastic character on the nose, which is rather quiet at cask strength. There isn’t much fruit to speak of but an odd crystal malt character. This is contrasted wonderfully by the rich, malty and fruity character on the palate. Creamy and honeyed, with candied citrus and sweet malt syrup. The nose and palate are so distinctly different, and it finishes with a big ginger note and a lovely, rich spice. With water we start to open the nose toward the greengage and yellow plums. Now we’re talking! Tons of yellow fruit now and all the odd-ball aromas are gone. All that potential on the palate opens with air and water. Please do not judge this whisky by the first pour. It needs some time and should have water added, but once you see it you’ll be hard-pressed to look away. There always has to be an odd-ball during whisky season, and so here it is. But giving the odd-ball a fair chance is often one of the most rewarding things you can do.
Andrew Whiteley | K&L Spirits Buyer | Review Date: November 16, 2022
I always hope Macduff will be in the offering every year when we go to Scotland. It rarely is, but I seem to like nearly all the casks I taste. It’s a friendly malt and has one of the most unusual lyne arms you’ll see in all of Scotland. They twist around like an M.C. Escher woodcut. Maybe it’s the circuitous nature of the lyne that gives the malt such a distinct note. It’s a combination of chocolate lava cake, crème brulée, and gummy citrus candy that is quite irresistible. They’re all on display here, and the barrel itself seems to be a relatively non-descript, refill hoggie. The weight and mouthfeel is a perfect medium—just throwing strikes. The fruit leans towards the citrus side of the spectrum but offers a touch of ripe melon as well. Mostly the flavors keep coming back to chocolate and vanilla with a rich creamy, fudgey, pudding-esque sort of feel to them. It’s an easy drinker if there ever was one.
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