I think I have to accept that no matter what I try I always seem to be running a solid month behind schedule. I’m trying to think of it now as a form of whisky jetlag; a dislocation in time that inescapably occurs when casks are to be bottled…
Greetings, then, to these late-May/early-June releases! They may be suffering the malt equivalent of stepping off a redeye to Tokyo, but they’re tasting damnably delicious.
In alphabetical order then:
First up we have a 14-year-old Ben Nevis. Due to the aforementioned temporal vortex this ended up being bottled only days shy of 15.
On the nose then – waxy lemons, chalk, buttercups and white blossom, warm bales of hay, orange boiled sweets, roast pineapple jelly, olive oil … it’s Ben Nevis in other words, freshly collected from the mountain peaks by old Hector McDram himself.
On the palate – a lovely textural arrival with olive oil and a soft butteriness, cut through with splendid lemons. Hints then appear of tropical fruits and soft spearmint, developing on chalky minerals, barley and camphor. The finish is all about sweet citrus oils and juices, with just a lick of salt.
It’s Ben Nevis and it’s wonderful. No other malt is quite like this, and there’s even an echo of some of those revered 1996 vintages in this one. You can’t go wrong.
This second-fill barrel produced 277 bottles at a cask strength of 53.1% and they are available for £85 each.
Next up we have an 18-year-old Caol Ila. I’ve done a bunch of Caol Ilas over the years, and there’s a very good reason.
On the nose: light and lively with fabulous lime leaves, ointments, smoked butter and almonds, tinned mussels and coal tar. We’re on Islay then, but less typically I also find some sweet apricots in the background, as well as frangipane, old emulsion pots (a note I always associate with older Bowmore) and honeysuckle.
The palate immediately feels elegant, with a lithe and soft limey and honeyed smoke. I get smoked sweet oranges and apricots, tiger balm, oyster brine, and cough mixture, before a lingering finish with coal smoke, lime, a single liquorice drop, and jasmine tea.
This is insanely drinkable stuff (my tasting glass somehow magically emptied itself several times writing these notes…), with some of the little nuances you usually find in much older Caol Ila. The citrussy and floral notes make it feel quite summery in its own way, too. Much recommended.
This refill hogshead produced 276 bottles at a cask strength of 50.7% and they are available for £120 each.
After returning to two old favourite distilleries it’s time for something brand new! This is a 7-year-old Nc’nean, and I’m delighted to have it. This is a carbon-neutral single malt, made from 100% organic Scottish barley, but just as importantly it tastes blooming great.
The nose has cherry drops, macadamia nuts, membrillo, grape must and baked apple – it’s a fascinatingly uncommon sort of fruitiness, backed with a nice Highlandsy minerality, and keeps opening up with time in the glass. A little water makes everything cleaner and greener – with lemon peel, green melon, apple, plus a little buttercream and honey.
The palate is full-bodied – almost viscous – with golden apples, quinces, yellow sultanas, honey and a pinch each of salt and white pepper. Again there’s a Highlands (maybe even coastal) feel in the background. I also get some coconut cream and lemon, with Juicy Fruit gum and black tea in the aftertaste.
Lovely Highlands spirit, this, with loads of both fruit and personality. I love how much it develops with time in the glass – a nice reminder to slow down and enjoy the scenery.
This first-fill barrel produced 243 bottles at a cask strength of 57.9% and they are available for £69.50 each.
And…
…that’s it for now. Thanks for bearing with me through my usual meanderings, and I remain – as always – available at the end of an email or DM if I can be of service.
Cheers!
David
Fettercairn Distillery 17 Year Old
