K&L Top 10 Picks — December 2019 – Whisky News
K&L Top Picks—December
Four Roses Small Batch Select Straight Bourbon Whiskey (750ml) ($54.99)
93 points Whisky Advocate: “The limited-edition releases from Four Roses are always top-notch, but this bourbona permanently available addition to the lineupproves itself every bit the equal of its rarer brethren. Made with the distillerys F yeast strain, among others, it has a perfumed nose, with orange blossom, cedar chest, berries, spearmint, tobacco leaves, sassafras, licorice, and layers of earthy spice. The palate is consistent and deep, with flavors of cherry Coke, cough syrup, orange oil, leathery dark fruit, black pepper, chili flakes, and chocolate, shifting into a minty finish replete with pepper, cinnamon, dark chocolate, cooked berries, and roasted walnuts. Full, rich, and utterly satisfying.”
K&L Notes: *#3 on Whiskey Advocate’s Top 20 Whiskies of 2019.* For the first time in 8 years Four Roses has added a new bourbon to their core lineup. The Small Batch Select is a 104 proof bottling that is made from the following recipes: OBSV, OBSK, OBSF, OESV, OESK, OESF. It’s a blend of 6 and 7 year old bourbons and is a worthy addition. It’s loaded with spiciness and a bit of sweet fruit on the nose and morphs into vanilla, cigar box, and stone fruits on the palate. It finishes long and clean with a touch of fresh mint lifting it and begging you to sip again.
Andrew Whiteley | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: November 27, 2019
We’ve been quietly cranking through this incredible Four Roses offering since it launched earlier this year. It’s become a staple on the bar of nearly ever staff member in our Redwood City store, and with good reason. Now with the major accolades bestowed upon it by Whisky Advocate, I’m guessing it will be on nearly every whiskey lover’s bar by the end of the year. It is perfect holiday drinking. Loaded with insane amounts of cinnamon, it would sit next to any dessert splendidly at Thanksgiving or Christmas dinner. Cigar box and cherry fruit notes blend together in a hedonistic concoction worthy of any bourbon lover’s adoration. The oak vanillins carry sweetness to every corner of your mouth. The finish hints at the fresh mint and other herbal notes found in Four Roses F yeast strain. It goes on and on and then keep on going thanks to the 104 proof which is absolutely the best decision Four Roses could have made for a blend of this caliber. Huzzah to Brent Elliot Master Distiller since 2015 and the “Master Mind” behind this great new offering.
Neal Fischer | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: June 18, 2019
Woody and spicy and fruity! Oh my! This newest project from Four Roses is a special blend of six of their mashbill/yeast recipes. It is more robust and richer than the previous standards from Four Roses, lending a heavy-handed approach to a classic. Cinnamon and clove burst out of the glass with heavy oak toast scents and orchard fruits. On the palate, everything is just… more. Hotter spice is also joined by mint, while those orchard fruit notes are intensified and taste like they’ve been baked into a pie. The wood flavors get heavier too with well charred oak and cedar notes just barely calmed down by vanilla sweetness.
Jackson Lee | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: May 02, 2019
I typically adhere by the saying, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” It seems Four Roses disagrees. With three solid core offerings, they decided to double down on the small batch, offering this great, mid-tiered whiskey at a higher proof (you won’t hear me complaining). On the nose I get sweet notes of candy corn and golden raisins with a slight hint of ripe green plum. The palate is definitely kicked up a notch from the regular small batch (which incidentally was my gateway bourbon). Sweet apple notes, with a bit of saigon cinnamon spice make their way forward and leave my tongue tingling with a bit of oak and a small hint of vanilla and finishing with sweet white peaches. The regular small batch got me into bourbon and Four Roses whiskey, and this new Select offering brought me back.
Bunnahabhain has been doing its thing since 1881 with just a short shutdown in the early 1980s. The massive distillery was built at a time of booming confidence in the Scotch industry and everything about it reflects that, from the enormous sprawling distillery to the massive stills. Historically destined for blends such as Cutty Sark and Famous Grouse, it’s in the modern booming era of Scotch that Bunnahabhain has really come into its own as a single malt. Known today for its unpeated malt on an island famous for peated spirit, Bunna at 30 years old is a rarity and something something truly to behold. Last year we offered a 30 year old Bunna that clocked in at a modest 44% ABV, this year we have secured a refill hogshead cask of the same age that retained its proof and is as massive as the distillery itself – 57.3% ABV. That extra oomph translates into a combination of age and power that is virtually never available; especially for $350 bucks. Consider the 25 year old distillery bottling averages over $800 and the value here becomes abundantly clear. Just 140 bottles came out of this cask and they won’t last long.
David Othenin-Girard | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: November 21, 2019
We’ve worked with several old barrels of Bunnahabhain over the last few years. We’ve seen a wide variety of offerings from 23-30 years old. But these last two years we’ve been given access to two of the most special Bunnahs we’ve ever sold, both distilled in 1988 and complete opposites in style. So if you have last years incredible refill sherry butt at 44.5% and your wondering why you’d buy another bottle from the same vintage, rest assured that this one is on the complete other end of the spectrum. What last years cask had in poise and ease of consumption, this one has in powerful and complexity. And it’s true, age is just a number, but there’s no doubt that the Laings have been stashing their best casks to be released at the BIG 30! I often don’t recommend drinking old whisky like this with too much water, but the proof is seemingly daunting and I think this whisky swims astonishingly well. Without water expect it to be rather shut down on the nose. Hints of malt, herbs, roots, salt, gravel and wisps of smoke. On the palate you can tell that behind the baffling nose is so much tension and complexity it’s brimming with power. Now proof this down under 50% and you’ll open up a completely unparalleled experience. The unique ability of Bunnah to seem of Islay without any peat is clear. Salted lemon peel, oolong, hints of camphor/creosote, gentian, lemongrass and the tiniest bit of ozone. The palate is ultra linear and long. Grassier than the nose and cleaner. A bit of earthiness and the bold citrus and salt that I loved on the nose. Power, tense, unrelenting and wild. Not as simple and forward as last years, but arguably a more exciting malt for those who love the true essence of Bunnahabhain. Don’t forget the water or you’ll end up a bit disappointed.
Andrew Whiteley | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: November 21, 2019
This whisky is stunningly complex. While we had a 30 year old Bunna last year that was dark with sherry, this impressive cask is all about the character of the malt itself. It is a perfect example of why Bunnahabhain is such a well regarded distillery. The malt itself feels drizzled in honey. A slight cream provides richness. There is a dizzying array of fruit that ranges from tropical pineapple to honeycrisp apples. It’s basically a breakfast bowl of yogurt, granola, and fresh fruits, but with an enormous wallop of power. Under the obvious notes on the nose is a gentle sea brine and herbal quality both of which provide lift and freshness. The body is full, but not heavy. An the finish lights up your tastebuds with the priqlyness of high proof and the sweetness of creme brulee. A masterpiece malt not to be missed by any serious whisky drinker or collector.
Jeffrey Jones | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: November 18, 2019
This 30 year old single malt is alive and packed full of drinking pleasure. In the nose there are savory and malt notes. In the mouth it is light bodied but is mouth coating with delicate savory flavors. With a splash of water the nose opens up and provides savory and bees wax aromas. In the mouth it becomes softer and more delicate. This excellent single malt offers finesse and shows what Bunnahbahain distillery is capable of producing.
Jackson Lee | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: November 15, 2019
This dram had a certain je ne sais quoi about it. Everything from the nose to the finish blew me away. Pretty and elegant on the nose with a delicate hint of smoke with red summer berries and canned mandarin oranges. The palate was equally as impressive, with more of a sweet tangerine flesh note with light oak tones and chocolate malt; it felt like sunshine in my mouth. The finish didn’t disappoint, as the sun started to set it left me with a flavor that reminded me of one of my favorite candies- peach gummy rings. This is an absolute dream of a scotch, no water necessary, and with tariffs going up, I’d definitely pick this bottle up for future consumption.
