Malt Messenger No. 88 – The “Yuge” Summer Edition

We’ve had two new KWM exclusive single casks arrive in-store since the last full Malt Messenger. The first was previously mentioned in a Malt Messenger Bulletin and since then most of it has sold. At last count, only 15 of 54 bottles of the Duncan Taylor Octaves Ardmore 2008 KWM Cask remain.

The arrival of the Ardmore arrived at an interesting time in the history of whisky at KWM, a period I would like to refer to as peak Ardmore! We have more Ardmore in the store now than at any previous period in our history. Ironically, only one of these is a distillery bottling, and it is being withdrawn from the Alberta market. There are however plenty of independent bottlings, so that prompted me to do a write up on the Ardmore Distillery and the bottlings we have of its whisky!

The other new exclusive single cask arrival at KWM is our first ever single cask of Bruichladdich. It is a 2006 Rivesaltes wine barrique matured whisky, at 64.3%. News of this whisky has spread far and wide, we have only had it for a week, and 162 of the 270 bottles have sold… at this pace it will all be gone well before the end of August. It is a lovely single cask, and it won’t disappoint!

The arrival of Compass Box Delilah caught us a bit of guard… We were expecting it in a few months, but here it is. It didn’t disappoint either. We were keen to try it the second we put our hands on it. My tasting note is below!

So many other whiskies to tell you about. There are a pair of 1968 vintage Duncan Taylors, which we poured at Ancient Malts in June. 45 year old Bunnahabhain and Strathisla respectively. Just 4 bottles of each came into the market, and we have but 2 and 1 each left of them respectively.

We have a whack of new Signatory and Edradour whiskies, some of which I have had an opportunity to taste. The four young Signatory whiskies we’ve sampled were all lovely, but that is no surprise, we have been consistently impressed with the quality of Signatory’s offerings. The two Edradours we’ve opened were also excellent. More details below, and whiskies available for tasting in-store.

There are 3 new Celebration of the Cask whiskies from Carn Mor. The Clynelish has sold mainly on its name and reputation, but I can vouch for the Ben Nevis, it is excellent. There are also new whiskies from the producer of Canadian Rockies, including the first American Rockies bottling!

On the American whiskey side of things there is also a cool 5 bottle set of Bourbons from Jefferson’s, the Bourbon Wood Experiment Collection. And on the subject of Bourbon, a tariff took effect on all American whiskey coming in to Alberta July 1, I’ve a wee comment on that below.

There is new Irish whiskey too, and it isn’t from Cooley, Bushmills or New Middleton. Dingle Irish Single Malt is here, and it is getting great reviews!

There is also new whisky from Sansibar, Old Pulteney, The Whisky Agency and Tullibardine. So much to say, so let’s get to it!

I hope this Malt Messenger finds you well. If you have any comments, questions or requests don’t hesitate to send me an email.

Slàinte!

Andrew

In This Edition

1. Cadenhead 175th Anniversary Tasting Part II – Tonight!
2. NEW Bruichladdich 2006 KWM Cask
3. NEW Duncan Taylor Ardmore 2008 KWM Cask
4. Introducing: Compass Box Delilah’s XXV
5. Two 1968 Vintage Duncan Taylor Single Malts
6. NEW Signatory Single Malts
7. NEW Edradour Single Malts
8. NEW Carn Celebration of the Cask Drams
9. NEW Canadian & American Rockies Whiskies
10. Introducing Dingle Single Malt
11. Jefferson’s Bourbon Wood Experimentation Collection
12. Two New Tullibardines
13. Sansibar: ALOS Butterflies Collection
14. A Trio of Mature Old Pulteney Whiskies
15. Introducing Laphroaig 25 Year 2017
16. The Whisky Agency Fettercairn 1988
17. Distillery In Focus: Ardmore
18. A Short Note on the Bourbon Tariffs

Andrew Ferguson

Kensington Wine Market

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Cadenhead 175th Anniversary Tasting – Part II 

Burnside (Balfiddich), Caol Ila, Cooley, Macallan, Mortlach and Laphroaig Oh My!

The second of two Cadenhead 175th Anniversary tastings is tonight at the shop, and the range is insane! We only received 6 bottles each of these whiskies, but we knew we would have to save a bottle of each for a very special one off tasting. Be there or be ☐!

Cadenhead 175th Anniversary Malts Part II – Thursday July 26 – We’ve been hanging on to these beauties for a special occasion… Now seems like a good time! We’ll crack open 6 whiskies including: Macallan 27 Year, Caol Ila 35 Year, Mortlach 30 Year, Burnside (Balfiddich) 28 Year, Laphroaig 25 Year and Cooley 25 Year! – $125

Our First Ever Exclusive Single Cask of Bruichladdich 

A Gentle Beast at 64.3%…

This is our first ever KWM exclusive single cask of Bruichladdich, and it is disappearing fast… The whisky has only been in-market for a week, and already more than half of the 270 bottles are sold. We are actually out of bottles in-store until next Wednesday, August 1.

Bruichladdich knew we wanted something unique for our first store exclusive cask, and they delivered. The whisky was matured in a Rivesaltes barrique. Rivesaltes is a type of fortified wine from the Languedoc. The Rivesaltes cask was the standout from our first range of samples, so we asked if we could sample a few others, and that is how we landed on the cask. The spirit was distilled November 23rd 2006 from Chalice barley grown on Dunlossit Estate, Islay, and filled into the Rivesaltes barrique. The whisky was bottled on January 18, 2018, at 11 years of age and a massive 64.3%. But don’t let that enormous ABV intimidate you… the spirit is soft without rough edges and drinks well with and without water! Just 270 bottles!

Bruichladdich 2006 KWM Cask 3307 – 64.3% – 11 Year – Rivesaltes Barrique – My Tasting Note: “Nose: doughy, malty and very fruity; like walking into a French bakery with warm pastries and desserts fresh from the oven; jammy notes of raspberry, strawberry and boysenberry; earthy and nutty with some leather and big sweet spices and toasted oak. Palate: buttery and fruity with rich spices and loads of velvety toasted oak; more jammy fruits, bright citrus fruits and liquid honey; some earthy-musty dunnage notes, fruit and nut chocolate and decadent spices; the barley plays a big role in this malt, round and chewy with a slightly flinty minerality; new leather. Finish: warming and spicy with soft leather, loads of berry fruits, earthy tones and chewy malt; the finish is long, coating and drying. With Water: with water the barley takes center stage on the nose with tart fruit; the creamy-doughy-bakery notes are toned down; the palate is more chocolatey with lovely spices, honey and fruit. Comment: the nose and palate are warm, they would have to be at 64.3%, but the whisky is far from sharp and very drinkable neat; the whisky takes water very well, more so on the palate than the nose; this one is going to be a hit!” – $125

In Case You Missed our Ardmore Octave Cask 

Only 16 Bottles Left of our Duncan Taylor Ardmore 2008 KWM Octave Cask

We selected this Octave cask at the same time as the Bunnahabhain we received in the fall. We are not entirely sure why, but even though it was bottled in 2017, it is just arriving now. All that being said though, it was worth the wait. Only 54 Bottles were produced by the wee cask. The whisky was distilled in 2008 was finished for 3 months in a bespoke sherry seasoned Octave cask. Bottled in 2017 at 9 years of age. 52.4% abv.

Duncan Taylor Octaves Ardmore 2008 KWM Cask – 52.4% – 9 Year – Finished 3 Months in Sherry Octave – Andrew’s Tasting Note: “Nose: honey baked ham with cloves, cigar ash, leather and burnt orange peel in a cocktail; salty Dutch licorice, melons and flambéed banana; honey garlic beef jerky. Palate: sweet and fruity with a smoky-sherried backdrop; more burnt orange peel, but also lemon; building oily, buttery, earthy peat and cigar ash with dark sugars and spices; more honey baked ham (with cloves) and honey garlic beef jerky; the sherry asserts its self, but not as much as the firm but gentle peat. Finish: medium-full with a good length, it is fruity, oily and buttery with fading sherry, baked ham and gentle peat tones. Comment: this is a lovely Ardmore, the sherry has accented the whisky nicely without over-cooking it; the peat is the central character here, and it shines!” – $112

Introducing: Compass Box Delilah’s XXV 

Whisky for Punks?  

This is the second Blend that John Glaser has created for Delilah’s, Chicago’s legendary punk rock bar. The first edition was released in 2013, this second bottling has been released to commemorate their 25th Anniversary. Curiously, the whisky has been built around a remaining parcel of whisky, from the original bottling (29%). Bottled at 46%, the whisky was also created with whisky from Cameronbridge, Miltonduff, Teaninich, Craigellachie and Linkwood.

Producer Tasting Note: “An effusive aroma of dried fruits (like dried apricots and figs), baking spices and light Sherry wine character. On the palate it’s soft and rich, with a complex sweetness in the form of vanilla and spice notes that enhance the dried fruit and Sherry character. A beautiful hybrid of American oak and Sherry oak maturation, in perfect balance, supple on the palate and delicious.”

Producer Description: “To commemorate the 25th anniversary of the legendary Chicago punk rock whisky bar, Delilah’s, we have once again created a limited edition Scotch whisky in collaboration with owner and whisky enthusiast, Mike Miller. The recipe for our second homage to Delilah’s was built around a small parcel of the original Compass Box Delilah’s blend released in 2013 – a luscious, American oak-aged whisky that we aged in cask for a further five years – with the addition of malt whisky aged in Spanish Sherry casks, also made of American oak. The result is a delicious Scotch whisky with notes of vanilla and spice, and rich Sherry character.”

Compass Box Delilah’s XXV – 46% – My Tasting Note: “Nose: creamy, enticing and floral with loads of chewy malt; doughy, savoury and quite woody: cedar sauna and singed oak; building leather, dark spices and dried fruits: raisin, apricot and prunes. Palate: very soft, doughy, savoury, malty and woody (but pleasantly so); notes of High School woodshop and musty old wood; licorice and fennel, oak spices and French roast coffee beans; the raisins, apricots and prunes are there with some dried cranberry and cherries; soft leather, Jujubes and a touch of chocolate to round things out. Finish: coating, creamy and fruity; long, with the leather, fruits, oak and spices slowly fading out. Comment: the wood is driving the flavour in this blend, and beautifully so; it is very well balanced and elegant, dangerously drinkable; the sort of malt you’d want for a punk rock show!” – $170

Two 1968 Vintage Duncan Taylor Single Malts 

Of Bunnahabhain and Strathisla… 

We brought in just 4 bottles of each of these for the Ancient Malts tastings we are hosting here at KWM on Friday next (SOLD OUT) and the following Thursday (2 Spots Open, $250). As we are opening a bottle of each, and there are accordingly just 3 of each available for sale. I had an opportunity to sample the Strathisla with a friend in January and it is stunning… I was thrilled to be able to get some. The Strathisla is everything you want from an ancient single malt. It is big, sherried, rich and elegant. I am eager to try the Bunnahabhain. The Tantalus decanters are hand blown, and the frame the bottle rests in is made from the actual cask the whisky matured in… cool!

1. Duncan Taylor Tantalus Bunnahabhain 1968 – 41.2% – Cask 3107 – 45 Year – Producer Tasting Note: “Very fruity, very fresh, soft spices. -ick, very gentle smoke and lots of cream. Long and sweet ­nish with cinnamon spice and a squeeze of honey.” – $2250
2. Duncan Taylor Tantalus Strathisla 1968 – 44.2% – Cask 3357 – 45 Year – Producer Tasting Note: “Very aromatic, sherried fruits and treacle. Very fresh – lemongrass and menthol notes give way to warming woody notes – crisp and clean! Long and fruity ­finish with nutty notes developing.” – $2600

New Signatory Single Malts 

We’ve sampled 4 of them and they are excellent!

We have a slew of new whiskies from Signatory, 9 single malts and 2 single grains. I have written up my own tasting notes on four of them. Hope to do the same with more over the next few weeks. Signatory unfortunately does not produce its own tasting notes, so I have borrowed from the “Chaps at Master of Malt” for the rest.

Single Malt

1. Signatory Auchentoshan 2000 – 46% – 17 Year – Hogsheads – My Tasting Note: “Nose: floral and fruity, marzipan, olives and Marcona almonds; doughy, raisins and white fruits. Palate: still floral, smooth, buttery and gently-toasted; more olives, marzipan and Marcona almonds; more raisins and dough-y notes; a touch meaty, thick caramel and soft, smooth leather; evolves towards darker fruits, spices and chocolate. Comment: this is not the fruitiest Auchentoshan I’ve had, though there is a touch of crisp citrus; but the round doughy tones, olives and almonds drive a dangerously drinkable the palate; there might even be a touch of peat…” – $160
2. Signatory Auchentoshan 1992 – 49.6% – 24 Year – Bourbon Barrel Cask 439 – Master of Malt Tasting Note: ” Nose: Classic grassy, herbal notes up front, before developing huge notes of vanilla and toasted brown sugar. Palate: Still packed with bourbon-y vanilla notes, now complemented by mixed nuts and bananas. Finish: Slightly floral and minty on the finish.”- $315
3. Signatory Blair Athol 1988 – 54% – 29 Year – Hogshead Casks 4859 & 4860 – Master of Malt Tasting Note:  “Nose: Nutty malt, with a touch of honey. Some new leather richness hides underneath. Palate: Fruitier on the palate, with notes of fresh lemon and punchy pineapple. Oak warmth alongside a pinch of peppercorn. Finish: Enjoyable dark chocolate bitterness.” – $320
4. Signatory Clynelish 2008 – 46% – 10 Year – Bourbon Barrel – My Tasting Note: “Nose: light, fresh, honeyed and floral with chewy malt; lemon and lime with sea salt and white pepper. Palate: still fresh, malty and very honeyed, with the signature Clynelish oily-beeswax-y character; still a touch salty, but also sweet and creamy with soft vanilla; bright lemon and lime with crisp spices. Finish: light but-mid length with a pleasant soft coating character. Comment: a light fresh summer sipper of a Clynelish; pretty and elegant!” – $115
5. Signatory Fettercairn 1997 – 46% – 20 Year – Hogsheads – My Tasting Note: “Nose: earthy and leathery, medjool dates, Fig Newtons and candied cherries; dark milk chocolate and pralines; Big Turk, Eatmore and Snickers candy bars. Palate: round, fruity and toasty with soft earthy oak tones and a touch of smooth old leather; tobacco and spices emerge; a touch meaty with more candied cherry, medjool dates and Fig Newtons; Eatmore and Big Turk on the palate, not so much the Snickers; increasingly floral with lavender. Finish: very floral, dark fruits, chocolate and nuts; coating and creamy. Comment: medium-long, coating and elegant with floral lavender and fading assorted candy bars. – $160
6. Signatory Glen Keith 1997 – 46% – 20 Year – Hogsheads – My Tasting Note: “Nose: bright and tangy, honey butter, Wine Gums and Jujubes; some sour melon and clotted cream; warm shortbread with whisky icing. Palate: still very buttery, creamy and fruity: more Wine Gums and Jujubes; still bright and tangy with sour melon, clotted cream and marmalade; floral, with white chocolate and more warm shortbread with whisky-icing. Finish: medium in weight, long in length with lovely honey, vanilla and cream tones; ends with a fruity-floral flourish. Comment: this is a quite typical mature Glen Keith, elegant and layered; very drinkable and excellent value.” – $170
7. Signatory Glen Keith 1991 – 48.2% – 25 Year – Bourbon Barrels 73651 & 73653 – Master of Malt Tasting Note: “Nose: A biscuit tin filled with Custard Creams and Ginger Nuts. A few Jaffa Cakes too (they’re not biscuits – who put those in the biscuit tin?!). Palate: Packed with barley and orange, with hints of salted cracker and cinnamon. Finish: Leafy herbs, more cinnamon, oatcakes.- $285
8. Signatory Glen Keith 1991 – 51.6% – 26 Year – Bourbon Barrel 73649 – Master of Malt Tasting Note: “Nose: Melon, honey and waxy orange peels. A hint of charred oak brings some light smokiness to the nose. Palate: Layers of vanilla, apricot and oily walnut. Finish: Slowly building warmth of cinnamon and black pepper.” – $290
9. Signatory Glenlivet 2007 – 46% – 10 Year – First Fill Sherry Butt – Master of Malt Tasting Note: “Nose: Packed to the brim with hearty malt notes, with wafts of Christmas cake and ginger following. Palate: Robust cinnamon and black pepper, joined by juicy berries and dark chocolate bitterness. Finish: Sherried orange peels, sugary shortbread.” – $130

Single Grain

1. Signatory Carsebridge 1982 – 49.9% – 34 Year – Refill Sherry Butt 76403 – Master of Malt Tasting Note: “Nose: Balsa wood, almond croissants, dark chocolate and juicy strawberries. Palate: Drying, oaky spices arrive first – cassia, cinnamon, clove and peppercorn. Develops layers of toffee and Nutella later on. Finish: Touches of cherry brandy and spiced rum on the finish.”- $515
2. Signatory Cameronbridge 1984 – 46.2% – 33 Year – Hogshead Cask 19306 – Master of Malt Tasting Note: “Nose: Butterscotch and maple syrup, with a subtle underlying floral element. Violet, perhaps? Palate: Toasted almond, salt-and-pepper crackers, pear eau-de-vie and cinnamon. Finish: Caramel and spiced fruit compote.” – $340

New Edradour Single Malts  

An Awesome Peated Ballechin and a Curious 21 Year!

At one point Edradour could boast of being Scotland’s smallest distillery. While no longer the country’s smallest, it is still one of its most beautiful! The charming little distillery tucked into the hills above Pitlochry is owned by Andrew Symington, owner of independent bottler Signatory Vintage (see below). Edradour produces an unpeated malt, Edradour, but also a heavily peated style named Ballechin, after a long lost nearby farm distillery.

1. Edradour SFTC Madeira 2006 – 58.8% – 11 Year – Madeira Cask Matured – My Tasting Note: “Nose: decadent, honeyed and musty; damp old oak, baked apple and poached pear, cinnamon and cardamom; leather and cadied citrus fruits. Palate: big, decadent, spicy and rich; a big heavy malt, decadent honey and sauternes notes, crisp warm spices: cinnamon, cardamom and ginger; malty, musty and oaky with coffee bean; late coffee tones. Finish: warming, toasty and oaky; big, long and bold. Comment: this is a sweet and spicy beast; not for the faint of heart.” – $140 (500ml)
2. Edradour SFTC Burgundy 2006/7 – 56.9% – More details to come! – $135 (500ml)
3. Edradour Sherry Matured 2004 – 52.2% – More details to come! – $190 (700ml)
4. Edradour 21 Year – 56.2% – Distilled 1995 – Finished in Oloroso Sherry – Master of Malt Tasting Note: ” Nose: Thick waves of Christmas cake and milk chocolate, with a touch of menthol at the core. Palate: Nuttiness begins to develop on the palate, but it’s somewhat overshadowed by juicy dark fruits and baking spices. Finish: Rich notes of chocolate mousse and rum-soaked raisin.” – $585 – Only 6 Bottles (700ml)
5. Edradour Ballechin Cuvee 8 Year – 46% – Distilled 2008 – Marriage of 1 Sherry Butt and 3 Ex-Bourbon Barrels – My Tasting Note: “Nose: balanced notes of ashy peat and sherry provide a welcoming first pass; hickory and mesquite; beef brisket with spicy BBQ sauce and smoked turkey; notes of apple and pear. Palate: there is a lot going on here; cupcakes with vanilla icing to start while wood ash rains down around you; soft leather, juicy malt and fruity sherry tones; more apple and pear; more mesquite and hickory with spicy BBQ sauce on beef brisket. Comment: I love the full disclosure of the label, and also the whisky; classic ashy Ballechin, with a balanced palate of Bourbon and Sherry notes. – $115 (700ml)
6. Edadrour Ballechin SFTC Bordeaux – 56.2% – More details to come! – $138 (500ml)
7. Edradour Ballechin SFTC Burgundy – 53.4% – More details to come! – $138 (500ml)

NEW Carn Mor Celebration of the Cask Dram  

We have some interesting new whiskies from the Carn Mor, Celebration of the Cask range. The Clynelish is here and very interesting… it was matured in a Sherry Puncheon. Not sure we will have the opportunity to open a bottle. The Ben Nevis is very curious, vegetal on the nose, the palate is dominated by tropical fruits. We are digging for more info on the Glen Spey, noting the price is excellent for a 23 year old!

1. Celebration of the Cask Clynelish 1997 – 57% – 20 Year – Sherry Puncheon 9441 – Distilled September 11, 1997 – Bottled September 11, 2017 – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: malt, mineral aromas, rye spices and brown sugar. Palate: notes of Christmas cake, mince pies and salted butter. Finish: a whiff of coastal air followed by sultanas and cocoa notes.” – $280 – Only 6 bottles… 2 left!
2. Celebration of the Cask Glen Spey 1991 – 52.6% – 23 Year – Hogshead – More Details to Come! – $205 – Only 6 bottles!
3. Celebration of the Cask Ben Nevis 1990 – 57.1% – 27 Year – My Tasting Note: dusty and floral with some vegetal notes: sautéed carrots; soft honey tones emerge with doughy croissants and vanilla cream; assorted fruit Jelly Bellys, apricot and dried cranberry. Palate: creamy, honeyed and spicy; the plate is a fruit bomb, beautiful waves of soft fruits: bright citrus and exotic tropical fruits; soft leather, paraffin wax and vanilla cream rounds the palate out; still doughy, very buttery warm croissants. Finish: light, fruity and floral; coating and creamy the fruit driven finish slowly fades with subtle spice. Comment: the nose was nothing to write home about, but the palate and finish did not disappoint; this is an excellent, layered and fruity Ben Nevis…” – $270 – Only 6 bottles!

 

NEW Canadian & American Rockies Whiskies 

An all new batch of 21 Year is accompanied by a 17 Year & the 1st American Rockies!

The new Canadian Rockies releases are excellent. This edition of the 21 Year is in my opinion, better than the last! The American Rockies is also lovely!

1. Canadian Rockies 17 Year – 50% – 100% Corn – Highwood Distillery – My Tasting Note: “Nose: toasty, floral and honeyed; Marcona almonds, dried cherry and cranberry, baked apple and cinnamon; lemon and candied corn. Palate: sweet, corn forward and spicy; floral, ripe fruits, more baked apple, dried cherry and cranberry; toasted oak, more Marcona almonds, olive oils; jujubes and vanilla bean. Finish: long, toasty and sweet; floral with fading fruits and jujubes. Comment: classic Canadian whisky, corn forward, very drinkable, juicy and layered; not overly complex, but at this proof it is a fine cocktail whisky!” – $70
2. Canadian Rockies 21 Year – 46% – 100% Corn – Highwood Distillery – My Tasting Note: “Nose: doughy and soft, the nose is not as bright as the 17 year, but it is deeper and more balanced; it screams corn…: corn syrup, corn meal, corn bread and caramel corn; loads of caramel, floral like the 17 year but with thicker vanilla. Palate: round and fruity, deeper and darker than the original bottling, more caramel, and richer fruits: raisin, candy-apple, juicy orange and some tart pineapple; smooth and elegant the whisky is soft and layered; there is a floral side to it too, but it is held back by the oak; still dominated by the sweet corn notes. Finish: long, sweet and fruity; fading caramel, oak spices and floral tones; the floral elements flourish on the finish. Comment: this is softer, fruitier and even more drinkable than the original release; elegant and layered! – $82
3. American Rockies – 44% – Wheated Bourbon – Wyoming Distillery – My Tasting Note: “Nose: dough, dill-y and woody; smells like a High School woodshop; shelled peanuts, butter tarts and aromatic bitters; peppery with some doughy oatmeal-raisin notes. Palate: sweet, fruity and spicy, with loads of wood-shop tones; fresh, fruity and toasty; more oatmeal-raisin cookie dough, peppery spices and oaky tannins; Demerara sugar and aromatic bitters before warm butter tarts. Finish: fresh, doughy, fruity, sweet and spicy; can’t get over the oatmeal-raisin cookie dough and Demera mixed with bitters combo… Comment: very fresh for an American whiskey, lots of layers, with the oak restrained nicely.” – $86

Introducing Dingle Single Malt Whiskey  

A new Irish Whiskey That is Not from Cooley, New Midleton or Bushmills!

There is a new Irish single malt whiskey on the scene, and it was not distilled at the Cooley Distillery! The “Second Small Batch Release” of Dingle Single Malt from County Kerry, Ireland, has landed in Canada. The whisky is getting good reviews, scored at 90pts by Whisky Advocate Magazine. The distillery is but one of a wave of new Irish distilleries, whose products will begin hitting the shelves in the years ahead. It may come as a surprise, but all of the Irish whiskey bottled before 2015, came from one of just three distilleries; two in the Republic and one in Northern Ireland. The whiskey from Dingle Distillery is traditionally Triple Distilled.

Dingle Single Malt Second Small Batch Release – 46.5% – Matured in a Mix of Ex-Bourbon, Ex-Oloroso and Ex-Pedro Ximenez – Producer Tasting Note: “Delicate, dry, with citrus and subtle vanilla notes can be expected! It dances across the palate and finishes, long and slow, with elegant complexity.” – $139 

90pts Whisky Advocate Magazine: “Despite some inconsistent spelling of sherry terms on the exterior tube, Dingle is releasing some very good initial whiskeys. The nose brings dates, dried apricot and apple, haystacks, vanilla, unwaxed lemon, and cardamom pod. This second small batch release tastes fruity, with orange lollipops, a beautifully developed apricot note, and caramel, leading to a peak of gingerbread and pepper, followed by vanilla, toffee, and orange oil twisted from the peel.”

Jefferson’s Bourbon Wood Experiment Collection 

5x 200ml Bourbons

So these came out of the blue, and are pretty cool. Jefferson’s Bourbon has produced a 5x200ml Gift Pack featuring Bourbons matured traditionally for 4 years and then finished up to 32 months in different types of casks.

Producer Description: “The inspiration behind Jefferson’s Wood Experiment Collection came from Trey spending time in a wine cooperage in Missouri. Wine cooperages are different than what you find in Kentucky as they have different treating processes, which focus more on toasting, slow cooking, and searing to bring different flavors to the forefront. It was at this point we asked, “How could we change up what the final flavors of the bourbon are after we mature it in typical bourbon barrels?” Trey started by putting 4 year old bourbon that had been aged in new charred white oak barrels, and finished it in 13 different environments/vessels. There were so many combinations to experiment with – new bourbon barrels, new wine barrels, wine barrel heads on a new bourbon barrel, insert oak staves that have been seared, or oak cubes that have been slow cooked, etc. Over a period of 32 months, we charted the characteristics of each experiment monthly and analyzed how the different treatments have affected the outcome of the final whiskey. We decided to bottle them up in five 200 milliliter experiments so you can try five different experiments and see for yourself how these small changes make a vast difference.”

Jefferson’s Bourbon Wood Experiment Collection – 5x200ml – 1L of Bourbon – Experiment No. 3 “Crème Brule” New American Oak Wine Barrels – Experiment No. 4 “Chocolate Caramel” New Medium Char Barr with Heavily Charred American Oak Cubes – Experiment No. 6 “Vanilla Smoke” New Light-Medium Char Barrel with Lightly Toasted American Oak Cubes – Experiment No. 10 “Southern Spice” Custom French/American Hybrid Wine Barrel – Experiment No. 12 “Cinnamon Apple” Original Barrel with Long Toasted Oak Inserts – $125

Two New Tullibardines 

Classic and Not So Classic “The Murray”

There are a pair of new Tullibardines from the Marquess Collection, aka The Murray. “The Tullibardine Marquess Collection celebrates our heritage and strong link with the hamlet of Tullibardine. There have been many famous figures bearing the title of the Marquess of Tullibardine for centuries. Sir William Murray was the 2nd Marquess of Tullibardine, who fought in the first Jacobite rebellion at the battle of Sheriffmuir in 1715. In 1745 he was chosen by Bonnie Prince Charlie to unfurl the Royal Standard at Glenfinnan, announcing the Prince as the rightful King of Scotland.”

1. Tullibardine Chateauneuf du Pape Finish –  46% – Initially Matured in 1^st Fill Ex-Bourbon the Whisky Was Finished in Chateauneuf du Pape barriques – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Wonderfully russet in colour, the nose combines beautifully with a wonderful assortment of aromas, including juicy red fruits and hints of spice. On the palate there is a great body and character, with the classic Tullibardine  freshness, and beautiful hints of cherry fruits and mint chocolate.” – $120
2. Tullibardine The Murray 2005 – 56.3% – 2017 Bottling – Matured in 1^st Fill Ex-Bourbon – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “There are a wonderful assortment of aromas perfectly weighted and balanced. Candied fruit, a touch of vanilla spice and sweet barley all combine for a delightful, lingering finish.” – $88

Sansibar ALOS Butterflies Collection

 Six Single Malts, 20-44 Years of Age!

This is the second Sansibar ALOS Collection to find its way to Canada. The first collection, The Birds, has come and gone. The Butterflies Collection has just landed. It consists of 6 single cask, single malt whiskies. This set is a little pricier, as it includes a 44 year old single malt, a Bladnoch, an Irish Malt and two Ileachs! Here are the details and tasting notes on the whiskies:

1. Speyside Region Malt 1973 – 51.6% – 44 Year – Sherry – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: Tropical fruits – papaya, guava. Bananas, orange peel and vanilla. Taste: Nice fruity – apples, bananas, honey, grapefruit and pears. Finish: Long and fruity, hints of oranges and spices.”
2. Bunnahabhain 1989  – 41.3% – 28 Year – Refill Sherry – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose:  Pineapple, sweet wine, apricots and apple compote, with ginger, cloves, and hint of salt. Taste: Fresh fruits, herbs, tobacco and licorice. Finish: Sweet, earthy and floral, with fine herbs and nuts.”
3. Irish Malt 1989 – 49.3% – 28 Year – Ex-Bourbon – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose:  Bananas, hint of vanilla and maracuya. Taste: Mango, passion fruit, vanilla, grapefruit peel. Finish: Long and fruity, hint of lemon and grapefruit.”
4. Bladnoch 1990 – 49.4% – 27 Year – Ex-Bourbon – Nose: Apricots, papaya, hint of vanilla, honey and sweet lemons. Taste: Apricots, grapefruits, and limes, little grassy. Mint notes and hint of mint. Finish: Long, grassy, warm vanilla.
5. Bowmore 1991 – 48.7% – 25 Year – Ex-Bourbon – Nose: Hay and seaweed with fruity notes of pears, lemons and hint of menthol. Taste: Medium Peat, gooseberries, Grapefruit, passion fruit. Finish: Long and briny, tropical fruits.”
6. Glenrothes 1997 – 57% – 20 Year – Sherry – Producer Tasting Note: “Nose: Barley notes, baked apples and oranges. Hints of vanilla and cinnamon. Taste: Hints of marmalade, apples, ginger and light tobacco. Nutty notes. Finish: Soft herbs, nice sherry influence without overdoing it.

The Sansibar ALOS Butterflies Collection – $4199.99

 

A Trio of Old… Old Pulteney 

New & Returned Bottlings 25 Year, 35 Year & 1983

We were thrilled to introduce the new Old Pulteney 25 Year and 1983 Vintage to the Canadian market back in January and 2018 MS Calgary Whisky Festival. At long last these two rare old whiskies are here. They didn’t come alone… We also managed to track down the last bottles of the long discontinued Old Pulteney 35 YEar

First the New Releases

1.  Old Pulteney 25 Year – 46% – Matured 22 Year in Ex-Bourbon – Finished in Oloroso Sherry – Producer Description: “For a quarter of a century, casks of this rare expression of Old Pulteney Single Malt Scotch Whisky breathed the invigorating sea air of the Caithness coast. Sheltered from a fast-changing world by the darkened calm of a distillery warehouse, the spirit mellowed at its own steady pace, echoing the reassuring rhythm of its hometown port. Aged firstly in American oak, its spicy sweetness was later granted depth and colour by casks of Spanish oak. Elegant and charismatic, this wonderful whisky embodies both Wick’s spirit of endurance and Pulteney Distillery’s devotion to its craft.” – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Aroma: Mature and fragrant. Opens with heavy spices and dark chocolate, leading to rum-soaked raisins and lime honey, punctuated with clean notes of orange peel and baked apples. Taste: Lush and rewarding. The flavour is firmly anchored in bitter chocolate and creamy vanilla with hints of toffee sweetness and crisp overtones of fresh lemon and coconut. Finish: The finish is long and spicy with a glimpse of dried fruit cake and exotic wood.” – $500
2.  Old Pulteney 1983 – 46% – 33 Year – American & European Oak – Producer Description: “Brought to life at Pulteney Distillery in Wick, this exclusive vintage expression of the Maritime Malt was matured in American and Spanish oak casks for over 33 years. Robust and full-flavoured, the whisky is lent rare balance and elegance by the Caithness coastal air. Its excellence stands as a testimony to a time-honoured process and unrivalled craftsmanship.” – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Aroma: From the depth and sweetness of stewed fruit and toffee, a chocolatey aroma develops with spicy vanilla and oily citrus adding complexity and weight. Sublimely balanced and relentlessly rich. Taste: Full-bodied and mouth-coating, the sweet and savoury heart is reminiscent of salted caramel and dried fruit while honey and vibrant, spicy vanilla build contrast and breadth of flavour. The creamy finish is long and elegant.” – $900

And the Old One!

1.  Old Pulteney 35 Year – 42.5% – American and European Oak – My Tasting Note: “Nose: honey, beeswax and clotted cream with salty caramel and clean smoke; melons, citrus and smooth leather with some dried fruits and spice. Palate: very honeyed, more beeswax and clotted cream with clean smoke and a prominent saltiness; there is more orange and a bit of melon with smooth leather, drying tobacco and dark spice. Finish: long, coating and spicy with more leather, tobacco and cream.” – Was $1050+gst – Last 6 Bottles Ever $975+gst – Just 3 Left!

Introducing: Laphroaig 25 Year 2017 

I Smell Another Old Laphroaig Tasting in the Offing!

The 2017 edition of Laphroaig 25 Year has been bottled at a cask strength of 48.9%. It has been matured in a mix of Ex-Bourbon and Ex-Sherry casks.

Distiller’s Description: “Laphroaig 25 Year Old has been lovingly created by marrying Laphroaig that has been matured in Oloroso sherry casks with Laphroaig that has been matured in ex-American bourbon barrels; both filled with newly distilled Laphroaig spirit from day one. When you join the sherried, oaky flavours from the second fill sherry casks with the creamy, smooth, sweet flavours from the bourbon barrels you create the magic that is Laphroaig 25 Year Old. Bottled at cask strength, it is a perfect fusion of two different styles of maturation flavours, made even smoother by the quarter century it has been gently maturing.”

Laphroaig 25 Year 2017 – 48.9% – Ex-Bourbon & Ex-Sherry – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Nose: Sherry sweetness followed by the time-honoured Islay peat tang. A smooth fruit ripeness that complements the tang of salt in the background. Body: Rich round and full. Palate: An initial burst of peat restrained by a sherry sweetness that develops into spicy apple fruitiness. Finish: Very long and warming, leaving a distinct tang of Islay.” – $670

The Whisky Agency Fettercairn 1988 

Spicy, Floral and Fruity

The Whisky Agency is bottling some of the most beautiful whisky in Scotland, and I’m not just talking about the liquid. They come up with some amazing labels. This 1989 single cask was bottled in 2016. Bottled at 49.9%, this 28 year old Fettercairn was selected by La Maison du Whisky. A sister cask scored 90pts with Serge @whiskyfun.org. Only 18 bottles have come to Canada, just 6 left!

 The Whisky Agency Fettercairn 1988 – 49.9% – 28 Year – Refill Hogshead – My Tasting Note: “Nose: waxy, floral and tropical with some hot spice; white pepper and dried roses with pineapple chunks, green bananas and cantaloupe. Palate:  more hot white pepper, ginger and cinnamon; juicy citrus, sweet white fruits and more cantaloupe, green banana and dried pineapple chunks; creamy, floral and honeyed. Finish: sweet, coating and warm, with honey, fruits, floral tones and hot spices. Comment: true to Fettercairn’s style, the whisky has body, is sweet and fruity; this is a very floral and slightly tropical Fettercairn; a lovely easy drinking dram!” – $390

Distillery in Focus: Ardmore 

Focusing On Peated Whisky In The Highlands For More Than A Century

Ardmore is a curious distillery, nestled among bucolic rolling hills in Scotland’s eastern Highlands. Little known, it has long served as a backbone in many blends, but is also a highly respected single malt among those in the know. Sadly, official bottlings are rare, at least in Canada, but fortunately Independent bottlers more than make up for this. Despite many requests to tour it, I have yet to visit Ardmore, and as such have no photos of my own. I stole these from their Twitter feed… I presume they won’t mind!

I have long held the position, and I am not alone in this, that regions are meaningless to Scotch whisky. You can produce any style of whisky, anywhere in Scotland, and increasingly this is the case. Even though most Highland Distilleries dating from the 1800s or earlier would have used peat to one extent or another, over the course of the 20th Century, most of them stopped. This was not the case with Ardmore, which was, and still is an important component in many blends. Ardmore has been producing a single malt, peated to 12-14ppm for as long as anyone can remember. Moderately peated, especially when compared to most Islay malts, it is less medicinal with the peat coming across more like clean wood smoke or hickory.

Ardmore was founded in 1898 by William Teacher’s son Adam. The distillery would become the first under the William Teacher & Sons group. It was built at an unfortunate time though, literally on the eve of the Pattison Whisky Crash. Many of Scotland’s distilleries closed in the years after 1900, but Ardmore kept producing. In 1955, the early days of the next whisky boom, Ardmore’s production doubled. In 1974, about a decade before the next industry collapse, Ardmore’s production was doubled again, from 4 stills to 8!

In 2002 Ardmore became the second last of Scotland’s distilleries to abandon coal firing of its stills. The whiskies produced before this date tended to be a little more heavy and oily than those produced since. The distillery did its best to mitigate the difference in spirit style by carefully adding kinks in the steam coils, to replicate hot spots that would have existed in the stills. It apparently took 7 months of tinkering before the distillery was happy with the resulting spirit. The distillery has also been producing an unpeated single malt since this time. This distinct style is called Ardlair, a reference to a nearby standing stone.

Ardmore was acquired by Jim Beam Brands in 2005, which has itself since been acquired by Suntory of Japan, under a new entity, Beam Suntory in 2014. Sadly we have not seen a focus on single malts from Ardmore under the new owners, which also own Laphroaig, Bowmore, Auchentoshan and Glen Garioch distilleries in Scotland. We have been seeing an increase in the availability of Ardmore from independent bottlers over the last few years. This is likely due to the softening global demand for blends. Hopefully this will prompt Ardmore to release more of its own single malts, including the unpeated Ardlair.

Ardmore Bottlings at KWM

1. Ardmore Legacy – 40% – American Oak –  Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Nose: It leans more on the savoury than the sweet side of things, with light barbecue char and earthy notes up-front. Sweet cinnamon, fresh honey and vanilla toffee waft up at points. Palate: More charred, smoky notes, joined by drying oak, pear drops and subtle grassy touches. Give it a minute for citrus zest and expressive heather to appear. Finish: A lasting peat smoke finish, with a little bit of honey’d barley for good measure.” – $55 (Discontinued, only 2btls left!)
2. Archives Ardmore 2009 – 59.6% – 7 Year – Ex-Laphroaig Barrel – My Tasting Note: “Nose: doughy and ashy, honey and malt with a firm wood smoke; grows with each pass, richer, thicker and creamier. Palate: big, bold and malty; peanut brittle, beef jerky, more sweet ash and sandalwood smoke; some big citrus, creamy vanilla, soft fruits and firm spice; a late touch of oily peat. Finish: long, malty and ashy; honeyed, sweet, spicy and citric. Comment: this is young and not inexpensive, but it is also a big, beautiful, layered and unapologetic malt. – $150 (Only 1 Bottle Left!)
3. Cooper’s Choice Ardmore 2001 – 51.5% – 1 6 Year – Ex-Bourbon – My Tasting Note: “Nose: orange, ash and honey (a promising start for an Ardmore); floral and a touch medicinal with vanilla extract and citrus Jujubes; is there some decadent spice? Palate: a big surge of soft-ashy-heat (again a promising start); toasty with hickory smoke, tart orange and lemon and a slightly medicinal edge; chewy malt and vanilla/honey tones coming from the oak; and yes there is plenty of decadent spice: candied ginger and cinnamon hearts; Russian caramel. Finish: big, coating sweet and malty with fading honey, citrus, ash and hickory. Comment: most Cooper’s Choice bottlings are filled at 46%; we are glad this is an exception because the whisky has a lovely oily coating body and concentrated character!” – $145
4. Duncan Taylor Octaves Ardmore 2008 KWM Cask – 52.4% – 9 Year – Finished 3 Months in Sherry Seasoned Octave Casks – Only 54 Bottles/ 23 Left – My Tasting Note: “Nose: honey baked ham with cloves, cigar ash, leather and burnt orange peel in a cocktail; salty Dutch licorice, melons and flambeed banana; honey garlic beef jerky. Palate: sweet and fruity with a smoky-sherried backdrop; more burnt orange peel, but also lemon; building oily, buttery, earthy peat and cigar ash with dark sugars and spices; more honey baked ham (with cloves) and honey garlic beef jerky; the sherry asserts its self, but not as much as the firm but gentle peat. Finish: medium-full with a good length, it is fruity, oily and buttery with fading sherry, baked ham and gentle peat tones. Comment: this is a lovely Ardmore, the sherry has accented the whisky nicely without over-cooking it; the peat is the central character here, and it shines!” – $112
5. G&M Cask Strength Ardmore 1998 – 53.5% – 19 Year – Refill Sherry Hogsheads – Andrew’s Tasting Note: “Nose: big, stewed dark fruits, treacle, dark chocolate with chili flakes and firm leather; damp tobacco, Christmas cake, plum pudding and black licorice pipes. Palate: big, rich and sherried, very sherried, a beast in fact, but a friendly beastr; big licorice, more spicy dark chocolate, treacle sauce on sticky toffee pudding, grilled figs, Christmas cake and plum pudding; the leather and tobacco are still there, there is some ashy (cigar) smoke too. Finish: long and smooth, the beast has been tamed; big sherry, leather, chocolate, tobacco and ashy smoke slowly fade. Comment: this is a sherry bomb, but a well integrated sherry bomb; juicy, fruity and complex; no rough edges!” – $225 – KWM Exclusive
6. G&M Distillery Label Ardmore 1996 – 43% – 19 Year – Refill Sherry – Andrew’s Tasting Note: “Nose: honeyed, ashy and fruity: sliced and candied orange, before the tropical fruits take over; honey butter, clotted cream and wet slate. Palate: still ash, very smoky, buttery and curiously simultaneously drying; toasty, very tropical: mango and papaya, a touch of pineapple; waxy and still fruity: Starburst candies; chewy bacon dipped in maple syrup with building leather and dark spices. Finish: long, sweet, creamy and savoury; creamy honeyed oak, bacon fat, tropical fruits and subtle peat smoke slowly dissipate. Comment: not as meaty or peaty as some other Ardmores I’ve had, but more complex with lots of layers… lovely!” – $200
7. G&M Distillery Label Ardmore 1998 – 43% – 1 8 Year – Refill Sherry –

Andrew’s Tasting Note: “Nose: still creamy like the 1996 and buttery, but more of a cultured butter; grapefruit pith, Moroccan marmalade; lemon sherbet and honey baked ham with pureed eas. Palate: brighter than expected: big citrus, chocolate covered coffee beans and Tiramisu; still ashy, a touch of Christmas cake, black licorice pipes and honey baked ham with cloves. Finish: bigger and brighter with more sherry than the 1996; rich spices and more perfectly cooked honey baked ham (with sweet mustard). Comment: a lovely, sweet and fruity malt; it is curious how much it contrasts with the 1996 G&M Ardmore, which is also 18 years old!” – $160

1. Old Malt Cask Ardmore 20 Year  – 49.3% – Refill Hogshead – My Tasting Note: “Nose: vegetal and floral; maple fudge and dried orange peel; savoury maritime tones and soft ashy peat. Palate: the nose might have been coy, but the palate is anything but; hard toffee, nutty-maple-chocolate fudge with more dried orange peel; chewy pork belly and Peeking duck (lig ht on the sauce); increasingly spicy (hot), more ashy-smoke and a base of tarry peat. Finish: medium in length, it fades out quickly for such a bold malt; ending on a fresh note. Comment: there is a lot to love about this Ardmore; a steal at $160!” – $160 – KWM Exclusive
2. Scotch Malt Whisky Society 66.100: Relax in a recliner – 55.5% – 12 Year – Refill Barrel – Panel’s Tasting Note:  “The sweet smoky scent of a Thai starter platter made us all feel very hungry. We could choose from prawn toast, spring rolls, curry parcels, spicy dumplings, crispy seaweed and smoky spicy prawn crackers with a sweet chili dip. The taste neat felt like relaxing in a recliner chair or a warming massage with menthol and lavender oil. Water added a Smoky Grove cocktail using peaty whisky, vermouth, bitters and the twist of a flamed orange peel. On the palate now loose ginger tea with a hint of lemongrass and liquorice with a well-balanced sweet and smoky seemingly never-ending finish.” – $148 (You Must Be a Member to Buy)
3. Scotch Malt Whisky Society: 66.110: Peat for beginners – 60% – 12 Year – Finished 2 Years in a White Wine Barrique – Panel’s tasting note: “The nose approached with a delicate restrain, softly laden with the barbecued wafts of bacon, roasted sweet potato and smoked chestnuts on ham. Toasted banana mingled with singed porridge and the freshness of lemon skin on the sea breeze. The palate was less than restrained with a giant sized smack of delicious peppered steak and ribs in barbecue sauce. Sweet and sticky with a tongue tingling twist of cloves and char before caramelized onion chutney blended with lavender and lemon lollies. The finish carried the meaty delights of glazed ham and beef stock with salted almonds and burnt wood. After spending 10 years in an ex-bourbon hogshead this was transferred to a 2nd fill white wine barrique for the remainder of its maturation.” – $152

A Short Note on the Bourbon Tariffs 

Which Took Effect July 1

The Canadian Tariff on Bourbon took effect on July 3 in Alberta. All of our current inventory of Bourbon is pre-Tariff… we stocked up as best we could. As the in-stock whiskies sell out you will start seeing a 8-10% rise in the retail price of most American whiskies. Some importers are cutting their margins, and where that is the case we will pass the savings on. But be forewarned, until Trump stops being such a wanker, to which there seems to be no end in sight, the tariffs will raise the price of your favourite American whiskies… FYI

The good news, no Tariffs on Scotch, Canadian, Japanese, Indian or any other World Whiskies!

Thank You for Reading the Malt Messenger! 

Contact & Disclaimers 

If you have any whisky questions or comments concerning The Malt Messenger please contact me by e-mail, phone, or drop by the store.

All of the products mentioned in THE MALT MESSENGER can be purchased in store, over the phone or from our website at www.kensingtonwinemarket.com. All prices quoted in the Malt Messenger are subject to change and don’t include GST. In the case of discrepancies in pricing, the price in our in store point of sale will be taken as correct.

Thanks for reading the Malt Messenger.

Slainte!

Andrew Ferguson

Owner & Scotchguy

Kensington Wine Market

403-283-8000

Calgary, Alberta, Canada

www.kensingtonwinemarket.com

Kensington Wine Market

403-283-8000