Bunnahabhain NAS ‘Mòine’ (58.4%, OB, Brown Label,  642 Bts., Feis Ile 2009)

This limited Mòine edition by Master Distiller Ian MacMillan, has endeavored to replicate that peated essence, using single malt spirit that’s not left the island for a second between distillation in 2003 and bottling in 2009.

This limited edition is finished in Oloroso Sherry butts for three short months in sea-facing warehouse no.7, bringing this intriguing voyage of discovery to an end. The result is a side of Bunnahabhain not often revealed, but one that does justice to a past worthy of exploration.

Mòine meaning ‘peat’ in Scots Gaelic is a dram for reflection – a gentle, eminent taste from another age. (From the blurb)

The nose reveals green notes (think cut grass and pea pods) and jam, not strawberry but something thicker and sweeter. After a few seconds of innocently nosing in quiet contemplation the peat smoke comes lancing out of the glass. It’s deep and thick, like coal smoke along with some iodine, hints of seaweed and some honey. This is nice. There are also very slight hints of either cocoa or mocha however it’s more likely mocha. There’s malt in there also. After some time in the glass it simply improves. The taste is peated and sherried with a really good back bone of clean malt and then the freight train of the peat come roaring through; obviously an express. After a moment or two it becomes slightly creamy. With water the peat increases in stature and depth and become much more coal like. The diluted taste is very, very good, don’t add too much. Mars Bars, cocoa, fruit, sherry, malt, it’s all in there and it’s quite excellent. The finish is peated, sweet and long. After a short while some oak spice arrives and the finish is very active and the long long is confirmed.

A very different Bunnahabhain and a very good one. Well done! It’s better with a little water and stretches the bottle too…vibrant, loads of character and a cracking dram.

£78 here and there but not much left but find one in any case. Comes with a wee ships wheel key chain though which is fun; not critical but fun.

Score 88 points