THE LORE AND LURE OF HIGHLAND PARK

Highland Park’s new Valkerie release, much like its previous releases, is long on viking mythology and short on specifics, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t taste good. I did a side by side comparison with the 12 and 18 year this week and felt that-as a middle ground between the two-the whisky holds up right where it should for the $70 price. More importantly, it tastes like the best parts of both whiskies. While the 12 year is light and fruity, the classic 18 year is remarkedly more sherried. With the Valkyrie, you get the malty, lightly-peated texture of the 12 with some of the rancio, cakebread, and richness of the 18. From what I understand, about half of the barley used in the Valkyrie was peated, which is higher than what’s used in the 12 and 18. That extra kick helps to mask any rawness from the whisky’s younger components and was clearly a good move. On the finish is a wave of dark chocolate and earth from the sherry, bolstered by more smoke. The packaging is nicely revamped and marks the beginning of a complete make-over for the entire portfolio. I think fans of the Orkney distillery will find this new expression to be a VAST improvement over the previous Dark Origins.

What I appreciate most here is that the Valkyrie delivers its finest work on the nose and the finish, rather than on the mid-palate. These are two elements of whisky appreciation I appreciate more as I get older: how it teases my nostrils and how it comes together as a unit on the back end. There’s a robust sherry aroma right out of the bottle, and sweet, concentrated hit of Oloroso richness on the finish that dries out a bit with the smoke, but clearly makes itself known. While Highland Park went heavier on Orkney’s viking heritage this time around, they didn’t do so at the expense of the whisky.

Highland Park “Valkyrie” Single Malt Scotch Whisky (750ml) ($69.99)