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This and That at K&L California – Scotch Whisky News

May 25th, 2013

• 1990 Mortlach 22 Year Old K&L Exclusive Chieftain’s Single Sherry Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky 750ml ($169.99)
If you’ve ever taken a sip of Johnnie Walker Black then you’ve tasted Mortlach whisky. The Speyside distillery is one of Diageo’s most-prized institutions, creating richly-textured whiskies that provide the backbone to many of its legendary blends. Yet because the whisky isn’t sold as a single malt in the United States, the name Mortlach doesn’t necessarily stir the emotions of the whisky-loving faithful. But there’s another reason Mortlach hasn’t achieved stardom abroad: most of what does make it to the States, under the guise of an independent label, is unsherried. To drink Mortlach out of an unsherried hogshead barrel is like drinking Laphroaig without peat or Macallan without richness. It’s not at all representative of what the distillery does best. Nevertheless, the occasional hogshead makes its way over every now and again, devoid of the toffee, the cake, the spice, and the power. It’s no wonder that these oddballs have done little to boost the distille ry’s rep. On our last visit to Scotland, however, we finally found a prize worthy of purchasing: an ancient, first-fill sherry cask of delicious, traditional, full-throttle Mortlach. Think Macallan 18 on steroids: big, opulent, dense, chewy, meaty, caramel, fudge, baking spices, herbaceous notes, and cakebread. Considering that Macallan 18 just took another price increase, this Mortlach looks like a super value. We’ve never found a cask of Mortlach this good, and we don’t expect to again. Just make sure to add water!

• Glengoyne 21-year-old Single Malt Whisky 750ml ($99.99)
What a steal…

• 1991 Cambus 21 Year Old K&L Exclusive Signatory Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Grain Whisky 750ml (Pre-Arrival) ($99.99)
Here we go! After two years of hunting for a replacement to our wildly successful single grain Girvan, we’ve finally found a cask of grain worthy of our discerning customers. Cambus is among the most difficult-to-find grain distilleries, for a couple of reasons: it’s been closed since 1993, and it’s rumored to be at the heart of the Johnnie Walker Blue bottlings. No surprise that it’s difficult to find–if Diageo is relying on this whisky to produce one of its most sought-after blends, it will certainly be controlling as much stock as possible. Occasionally, small lots slip out of the blender’s grasp and into our glass! Here we have a super-high quality grain in all its awkward splendor. This nose is all oak spice and vibrant fresh fruit. Clove, coriander, freshly grated nutmeg, apple skins, under-ripe mango. On the palate, the fruit takes over, plus vanilla cake frosting, and the baking spices remain subdued, with a bit of coconut and some fresh oak notes. A perfect example of why sometimes, we must not blend all of the grain. (David Othenin-Girard, K&L Spirits Buyer)

• 1997 Laphroaig 16 Year Old K&L Exclusive Signatory Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky 750ml (Pre-Arrival) ($99.99)
We love Laphroaig. Everybody loves Laphroaig (if they don’t hate it). Not a lot of people on the fence regarding Laphroaig. That’s why it’s really hard to get. It’s really expensive as well; this is both cause and effect. We’ve seen prices go up, while quality has remained consistent. We took on a middle-aged Laphroaig last year and sold it for what seemed like a reasonable $140. Now we have another cask of Laphroaig and it’s difficult not to oversell it. If we’re always so effusive about every whisky we taste, people start to question our judgment. So, I’m just going to say that this is top-tier Laphroaig. It’s in that prime moment between the intensity of a young Laphroaig and that depth of the older offerings from this legendary distillery. This was the whisky that we spent time wringing our hands about because we were expecting to be paying the same price as our 18 year from 2012, but somehow we were able to get the price down to something far more reason able. It won’t last, and it will go up significantly after the pre-arrival campaign is finished. Don’t miss it! (David Othenin-Girard, K&L Spirits Buyer)

NEW ARRIVALS

Scotland – Single Malt Scotch

• Arran 16 Year Old Single Malt Whisky 750ml – 8 available ($105.99)

• 1995 Benriach 17 Year Old Chieftain’s Single Rum Barrel Single Malt Whisky 750ml ($109.99)

• 1997 Glenrothes 15 Year Old Chieftain’s Single Barrel Single Malt Whisky 750ml ($79.99)

• 1992 Glentauchers 20 Year Old Chieftain’s Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky 750ml – 4 available ($159.99)

United States – Bourbon and Rye

• Knob Creek 9 Year Old Single Barrel Reserve Bourbon 750ml ($39.99)

• Old Grand Dad 114 Proof Kentucky Bourbon 750ml ($25.99)

Irish

• Greenore 8 Year Old Irish Whiskey 750ml – 6 available ($44.99)

United States – Bourbon and Rye