Turkish coffee in a barber shop

Cask No. 30.63
Highlands, Speyside (Rothes)

This split the panel, though the majority definitely approved; the nose had roasted smoked ham, chutney, crème brûlée, Christmas cake, toffee, marmalade and coffee creams; also a light sulphury note which one panellist called ‘old barber shops’. Water brought out raisiny sticky buns, wood polish and oily rags. The palate was dry, even drawing, and spicy at natural strength, with Turkish coffee, concentrated Tia Maria, Fernet Branca, walnuts and salted cashews. In reduction it had lots of pleasant sweetness but also dry, burnt and salty characteristics, not unlike dry roasted peanuts. The distillery sits between a castle and a graveyard.

Drinking tip: After dinner with coffee (better with water)

Colour: Late autumn trees
Cask: Refill sherry butt
Age: 20 years
Date distilled: May 1990
Alcohol: 55.8%

$145

Cornish pastie and plaster-board

Cask No. 31.20
Highlands, Jura

After a brief coir matting opening, the aroma reminded us of a new house – wet plaster and plaster-board – with a light grape-seed oil note, peppercorns and mixed spice emerging after a while. The taste, unreduced, is fresh, sweet and peppery, with a thread of smoke. Water moves the nose towards cooking scents: roasting tin (with lamb shanks), fatty Cornish pasty, Scotch broth with barley… and one found nasturtiums. The taste is now soft and sweet and lightly nutty: brown rice with Gouda cheese and a flick of soy sauce. The distillery was designed by Delme Evans and built in the early 1960s, overlooking Craighouse Bay.

Drinking tip: Lunch on-site in the new-build home

Colour: Pale gold
Cask: Refill hogshead
Age: 21 years
Date distilled: September 1988
Alcohol: 53.4%

$145

‘Hot, juicy and intense’

Cask No. 53.147
Islay, North Shore

Aromas of witch hazel, coal, pork crackling (with a dry mustard rub), charred scallops, dune grass, tar, black seaweed in rock pools and really good barbecue sauce (think Blumenthal), were mirrored on the taste; but there was an intense spicy, juicy lemon character that made us wanting more; one Panellist insisted he tasted Crème Egg. Water brought out pine sap (Christmas trees), sea salt, lint bandages, more dune grass, oh and smoke, glorious sweet perfumed smoke. To taste it was, sweet, salty, smoky and chilli hot, with dark bitter chocolate, sweet cured ham, and warm tarmac. From Islay’s largest distillery.

Drinking tip: An ideal dram for a lazy summer’s day while having a barbecue on the beach

Colour: Shiny lemon yellow gold
Cask: Refill hogshead
Age: 10 years
Date distilled: November 1999
Alcohol: 66.6%

$95

Vanilla malt shake

Cask No. 76.81
Highlands, Speyside (Dufftown)

The Panel found earthy, oily and floral notes as well as wet dog, tomato vines, malted barley, grist, worts & new make (not surprising considering the age) but also aromas of spearmint, raspberry cream and cherry Tunes. To taste it was hot, fizzy, sweet and malty– baked apples and pears in Calvados. The addition of water only lightened it more – vanilla, lemon, sweetened Alpen, Weetabix (still in the box), cheap milk chocolate and lime cordial or Tic-Tacs; while on the palate it was light, malty, easy drinking with plenty of creamy vanilla. From the first distillery to have a license.

Drinking tip: Perfect for sharing during summer picnics

Colour: Flaccid yellow
Cask: First-fill barrel
Age: 8 years
Date distilled: April 2002
Alcohol: 60.1%

$85

A Baker’s Delight

Cask No. 121.42
Highlands, Arran

The lively nose brought lemon hard boiled sweets, peach flan and barley sugar. Then, a multitude of layers unfolded with fudge, strawberry tarts and banana bread. There was a freshness too with clean linen and lavender scent. The neat palate was hot and spicy, reminiscent of a Bakewell tart with spices. Grapefruit, lemon peel and almonds brought more delights to the bakery. The reduced nose revealed strawberries and cream (double thick Jersey cream), with a squeeze of lemon. Pastry notes followed with icing sugar and cream tarts. The reduced palate became paradoxically thicker with water – chewy lemon meringue pie with whipped cream. This distillery, on the most southerly Scottish island, celebrates its 15th anniversary in 2010.

Drinking tip: With exceedingly good cakes

Colour: Sandstone
Cask: Refill hogshead
Age: 14 years
Date distilled: December 1995
Alcohol: 52.8%

$115

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