The Quiet Splendor of Komagatake
Mars Komagatake 7 Year Old K&L Exclusive 1st Fill Ex-Bourbon Barrel #3740 Japanese Single Malt Whiskey (700ml) ($179.99)
“An absolute winner by any measure that feels like a rapturous eye-opener to the potential of this wonderful little mountain distillery.” —David Othenin-Girard, K&L Spirits Buyer
Mars Shuzo is the quiet giant of Japanese whisky. The best kept secret in the whisky world are the two exceptional distilleries, Komagatake and Tsunuki. While both have been available on occasion in single malt form, they are almost never seen in the US as single casks, and typically a single barrel of either commands a significant premium. The company can trace its roots to the origins of Japanese whisky through their founder, Kiichiro Iwai. Just like Suntory, Hombo Shuzo was there from the start. It was in fact Iwai who enlisted Masataka Taketsuru to travel to Scotland in order to learn the age old techniques for making the worlds most complex whisky. Upon his return, Hombo was not able to construct the distillery, so Taketsuru-san took the plans to Suntory.
But in 1949, Kiichiro Iwai would complete his dream of building pot stills and distilling Hombos own malt whisky. And while Iwai-san represents one of the three pillars of Japanese whisky, their modern commitment to the category rests squarely on the shoulders of one great man, Kazuto Hombo. Hombo-san is a true lover of the finer things, and his love of whisky kept the wonderful old stills running. His belief that Japanese whisky would one day be a worldwide success is singularly connected to the construction of the Nagano plant where the original stills were moved, and while Hombo-san was ahead of his time, the plant would see very little production over the next 30 years. He was ready when the whisky boom began and production restarted in 2014.
Now Komagatake is making some of the world’s best whisky. Stylistically, the distillery offers an elegant and refined malt, but this single cask is truly superb. Peated to 20 ppm, you might expect something very smoky and forward, but instead you have an elegant, ultra complex expression of malt that is on par with the very finest available anywhere. Let’s dive in! One of the old single casks out there. The color is a shimmering yellow gold (0.5). The nose is an explosive mixture of maritime flavors and sweet orchard fruit: oyster shell, yuzu peel, galangal, creosote, white ash, pear preserves, licorice root, salted grilled lemons, and lanolin. The palate is razor sharp and chiseled, with a big citrus note and a strong saline character up front, followed by similar white ashy smoke, which does not dominate whatsoever the fresh, juicy fruit: greengage, apricot, green grapes. It absolutely adores water, softening the smoke and reminding me of a well matured, less tarry style Caol Ila. An absolute winner by any measure that feels like a rapturous eye-opener to the potential of this wonderful little mountain distillery.
— David Othenin-Girard, K&L Spirits Buyer
Mars Komagatake 7 Year Old K&L Exclusive 1st Fill Ex-Bourbon Barrel #3740 Japanese Single Malt Whiskey (700ml) ($179.99)
This singular cask from Mars Komagatake offers a direct link to the origins of Japanese whisky and one of the category’s most important pioneering producers. Crafted by Hombo Shuzo, a family owned company founded in 1872, Mars traces its whisky lineage to the earliest era of malt distillation in Japan, long before Japanese whisky achieved global acclaim. Hombo was among the first producers to seriously pursue domestic malt whisky, helping establish the foundation of what would become a national tradition. The Komagatake distillery was founded in 1985 high in the Japanese Alps of Nagano, chosen for its pristine mountain water, cool climate, and dramatic seasonal temperature swings. These conditions proved ideal for maturation, allowing whiskies to develop remarkable depth and structure even at younger ages.
Like much of the industry, Komagatake experienced periods of dormancy during market downturns, but its revival in 2011 marked a pivotal moment in the modern resurgence of Japanese whisky. Today, Komagatake is widely regarded as the spiritual and technical heart of Mars, producing some of the most authentic and characterful single malts in the country. This single cask, bottled exclusively for K&L at natural cask strength and limited to just 160 bottles, is not only exceptionally rare but historically significant. As the very first Komagatake barrel selection in K&L’s history, it stands among the finest examples of Japanese whisky available anywhere in the world.
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Mars Tsunuki 8 Year Old K&L Exclusive 1st Fill Sherry Cask #T326 Japanese Single Malt Whiskey (700ml) ($189.99)
This exceptional single cask from Mars Tsunuki represents a crucial chapter in the long and often storied history of Japanese whisky. Produced by Hombo Shuzo, a family-owned company founded in 1872, Mars traces its whisky lineage to the very beginnings of malt distillation in Japan. Long before Japanese whisky gained international fame, Hombo was quietly experimenting with malt production, helping lay the technical and philosophical groundwork for the category.
While Komagatake Distillery serves as the spiritual heart of Mars, Tsunuki represents its future. Established in 2016 in Kagoshima at the tropical southern tip of Japan, Tsunuki was built firmly in traditional practice, drawing on the region’s warmer climate and abundant natural resources to explore a different expression of Japanese malt whisky. But because it was yet to be defined, the distillery offered Mars a chance to push the boundaries of what’s possible. This heavily peated single cask is a perfect example of the courageous potential of this special distillery.
Distilled in 2017 from barley peated to 50 ppm and aged high quality first fill sherry hogshead. This is rich sherry and peat at its very finest and a style almost never seen in Japan. Aged in the hot, humid dunnage style warehouses at Tsunuki for nearly 9 years, it was bottled at natural cask strength without chill-filtration. A total of 236 bottles, this release stands as a bold statement of intent for the distillery and for Mars as a whole.
David Othenin-Girard | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: December 17, 2025
The wonderful Tsunuki distillery is truly a pilgrimage worth taking for any lover of great whisky. I’ve made the trek twice, and along with Kanosuke, it stands as one of the crown jewels of the recently anointed Kagoshima whisky trail. Visiting this historic property can be deceiving, as you might expect a new distillery to feel new, but its actually the longtime home base of Hombo Shuzo’s historic operations. The reception center is literally Hombo-san’s family home where he grew up, and the site also includes the old, now defunct grain stills that were crucial to the success of Hombo Shuzos shochu business. The beautiful property also features World War II-era dunnage warehouses, where this special cask was aged. The selection of this barrel represents one of my favorite cask-picking experiences in nearly twenty years of doing this. After a beautiful tour with chief distilling manager and blender Tatsuro Kusano, we retired to an elegant tatami-adorned washitsu tucked behind the visitor center.
There was an impressive lineup of casks waiting for us, and every single one was a joy to taste. We initially selected a beautiful medium-peated Komagatake, but the others were almost impossible to separate. After plenty of hemming and hawing, I mentioned to Kusano-san that many of our customers are obsessed with heavily peated, heavily sherried malts, a style we see less and less out of Scotland, and wondered if Tsunuki had ever gone in that direction. His eyes lit up, he raised a finger, and said, “I’ll be right back.” He sprinted across the campus to his blending room and returned with two samples dark as night. It felt like I’d spoken and the whisky gods had answered. The cask was everything we hoped for, a big, bold, unapologetic beast with deep barbecue intensity. Fittingly, Kusano-san is a huge fan of American-style barbecue, so if you ever visit the distillery, that’s the perfect omiyage.
I just about started crying and was so honored and grateful that this generous colleague had gone the extra mile to find something so special for us. It’s not only these experiences that put Tsunuki at the top of my list, it’s the incredible whisky they continue to produce every single day. We bought two more barrels this October and hopefully many more to come. The barrel rested for another year after selection and only grew more compelling over time. During bottling, the distillery even sent us a photo showing thick, opaque fatty oils suspended throughout the whisky and asked if we wanted it filtered. The answer was an emphatic no. Keep every bit of that cloudy magic.
I won’t bother with a formal tasting note here, because if you haven’t already grabbed a bottle, you’ve probably already missed the boat. But if you love the great sherried beasts of Islay, this magical cask will absolutely knock you out for the count.
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