Hakushu 18 Year Old Single Malt ~ Japanese Whisky News

David Othenin-Girard | K&L Buyer | Review Date: 01/2025

Hakushu 18 year for many years was my golden goose of Japanese whisky. Believe it or not, back when I started in this industry over 20 years ago, the Yamazaki 12 year was the least expensive 12 year old single malt in my store. I think we charged $37 and Glenlivet 12 year was $40. When I wanted to treat myself the 18 year was only $100! When the Hak 18 year launched in 2006, it was literally all I wanted and it was damn hard to find. Difficult to sell yourself the one bottle allocated to your store, so I eventually paid retail elsewhere and coveted that bottle like it was my baby. Then it became impossible to find and extremely expensive, yet my desire to have it in my possession diminished very little. Now tasting the modern version, I actually think its improved amazing over the years, as my desire to own the Hak 18 year never really connected with my perception of its quality. Let’s have a little bit together! The color a beautiful burnished color (1.1) – huh, this is much darker than I remember the old version being. HOLY MOLY the nose is absolutely stunning full of beautiful tropical fruit, wild honey, antique wood, the finest black teas, the smoke is so integrated and rich you’d be hard pressed to call it out as a peated malt on the nose. The ultra supple entry builds with deep roasted fruit, deep vanilla, rancio, baking spice that build toward a round complete and savory finish. Again we’re not at all in the overt peat world and the depth and age feel well beyond 18 years. For all that is said about Suntory’s consistency this is wildly inconsistent with what I remember in that it’s much much better! A pour little 92 point score from 13 years ago does not do the modern Hakushu 18 year any justice. It’s very clear that they’re putting beautiful old malt in this from a variety of extremely high quality barrels. A beautiful whisky that should be considered for any one looking for a luxurious experience.

$649.99

The Hakushu 18 Year is considered by many connoisseurs of Japanese whisky to be the ultimate offering. While the fanfare and limelight typically shine upon the Yamazaki distillery and their flagship 18-year-old product, those who are truly invested in the category seem universally drawn to the quiet confidence exuded by this wonderful well aged Hakushu. This spectacular distillery, located on the slopes of Mount Kaikoma to the west of Hakuto in Yamanashi prefecture, was established in 1973. It’s six pot stills are known as Suntory’s home for peated malt, but in fact makes several whiskies of various peat levels. Yet the 18 year isn’t overtly smokey or intense like an Islay malt. This incongruity is due to the blending of their various peat levels (light, medium, medium heavy, & heavy), but also because the age statement here is only a minimum age. Much older whiskies are included in the blend each in different wood types, so the resulting product likely has an average age well beyond the stated age and the character compares up too much older single malts from Scotland. The older peated malts naturally mellow and their powerful smokey character transforms into more complex tertiary character. Anyone looking for a superlatively good Japanese single malt, you need look no further than this special bottle.

Email: wine@klwines.com
Phone: (877) KL-WINES (Toll Free 877.559.4637)
K&L Wine Merchants 3005 El Camino Real Redwood City, CA 94061 USA
San Francisco, Redwood City, Hollywood CA

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