Barrell Craft Spirits: Three Whiskies from America’s Preeminent Bottler – American Whiskey News
An Award-Winning Bottler Delivers a Tantalizing Trio
“Barrell has commanded the conversation for a long time when it comes to independent bottlings in American Whiskey. They have delivered what customers want with every single bottling – high proof quality whiskey – and they haven’t been afraid to innovate and push the envelope on unique finishes either.” — Andrew Whiteley, K&L NorCal Spirits Buyer
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Barrell Craft Spirits’ founder Joe Beatrice has created America’s preeminent independent bottler of spirits. Working only in small batches or single barrels, Barrell has assembled the finest portfolio of casks available in the United States. They have won a bevy of major awards ranging from 2018’s Best American Whiskey according to Forbes’ Fred Minnick to Best Small Batch Bourbon at the 2019 San Francisco Spirits Competition, as well as a host of double gold awards. Their dedication and commitment to selecting the very best casks have placed them among the forefront in the industry. We are fortunate to have secured three incredible bottlings from this benchmark label. All three show not only Barrell’s commitment to quality but also a willingness to push boundaries. The resulting bourbons are every bit as engaging as they are delicious. From the beautifully blended Armida to the powerhouse rye exclusives, these are the very pinnacle of American whiskey.
Barrell Craft Spirits “Armida” Bottling Cask Strength Bourbon Whiskey (750ml) ($79.99)
Barrell strikes again. The first release of Armida is just 3,504 bottles and is a blend of 3 straight Tennessee bourbon whiskies finished in pear brandy, Jamaican rum, and Sicilian amaro casks. Their blending prowess is on full display as they perfectly mesh this wide array of flavors into a cohesive and delicious bourbon.
Andrew Whiteley | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: January 13, 2021
Barrell has commanded the conversation for a long time when it comes to independent bottlings in American Whiskey. They have delivered what customers want with every single bottling—high proof quality whiskey—and they haven’t been afraid to innovate and push the envelope on unique finishes either. The key difference in Barrell’s finished choices over so many other producers’ is that they won’t release it if it doesn’t taste good. It’s not an interesting finish for the sake of finishing—it ‘s to make a great whiskey even better. The Armida is a limited release of just over 3000 bottles of three lots of Tennessee bourbon finished in pear brandy, Jamaican rum, and Sicilian Amaro casks. Each of these brings out a special characteristic of the Tennessee whiskey. And the real magic is in the miracle that none of the complex flavors clash, but rather work harmoniously to be greater than the sum of their parts. The nose is ripe pears, apples, and a basket of mixed stone fruits all dusted in a complex melange of baking spices. The amaro cask really complements the brandy cask in a big way on the nose. A palate that is distinctly buttered popcorn gives a pretty big clue to the source of at least part if not all of the whiskey itself. This flavor mixed with the funkier notes of Jamaican rum are a combination par excellence and should inspire some excellent Tiki drink in the hands of a capable bartender. A deep cocoa note is also quite assertive on the palate, presumably from the whiskey itself but highlighted by the amaro. As you transition into the finish of this whiskey, it’s easy to get lost. Your mind will wander from place to place and cask to cask as you try to pick the whole thing apart. The real beauty is in the realization that everything is so well integrated a determined drinker must work very hard to pick anything apart. It’s a blast to drink. At once outright delicious and a heady exercise for the geekier whiskey consumer to engage with.
David Othenin-Girard | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: January 18, 2021
This splendid new blend is another indication that Barrell aims to be seen not only as the best bespoke bottler in craft spirits, but also the finest blender. The art of blending is anything but simple. When blending whisky 2+2 never equals 4. At home it’s fun to goof around with mixing different whiskies, but creating a blend whose whole is greater than the sum of its parts is neither art nor science-it’s magic! What our friends in Louisville have done with this excellent whiskey is create something that remains at its core bourbon (distilled in Tennessee, but not so distinctive as to be unmistakably Dickel), but brings a new and refreshing twist to the category. A complex mix of multiple barrel finishes-pear brandy, rum and amaro casks-creates truly new territory in terms of flavor without distancing itself so much from the category as to be unappealing to the purists. The color is deep copper. The nose bursts with redolent pears, maple syrup, stone fruit preserves, fresh herbs, and sarsaparilla. The palate bounces between undeniable pear flavors and the big herbs and spice of the amaro. It’s difficult to see exactly what the rum is doing here, but perhaps it’s adding some dried fruit and sweetness. Despite the complex mixture it avoids going bitter and stays remarkably refreshing. No detectable chalky vitamin flavors in my sensitive estimation, which will be good news for anyone leery of the Dickel thing. Altogether a lovely example of what’s possible with these small scale blending projects and a welcome addition to the Barrell pantheon.
Barrell Craft Spirits 7 Year Old Single Barrel K&L Exclusive #M221 Indiana (MGP) Rye Whiskey (750ml) ($99.99)
Andrew Whiteley | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: January 13, 2021
One of my favorite things about being able to buy single barrels is in showcasing how different the “same whiskey” can be. Single Barrel M221 has the same specs, a similar proof—112.18 in this case—and pedigree as M225, yet they taste completely different. M221 is a spice bomb. It’s cinnamon and pepper and cloves and blackened pumpernickel. There is a faint overture made towards the stone fruit of M225, but it is brief and fleeting. A slight diesel note gives this cask a mean (but delicious) edge. It will kick your ass and not bother learning your name. It is not for the faint of heart.
David Othenin-Girard | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: January 18, 2021
Another great single barrel of Indiana rye here. I respect Barrell’s policy of pricing all single casks similarly regardless of age. While this might seem a smidge high on paper, there’s very little out there of this caliber and almost none that’s single barrel and cask strength. The color is auburn. A bit restrained on first pour but time in the glass benefits it greatly. This has some interesting nearly tropical fruit aromas coupled with roasted nuts and dark roasted arabica bean. A dusty note that’s not unusual for mid-aged MGP permeates elegantly throughout. The entry drops all the fruit in favor of candied peppermint, cinnamon, vanilla, cacao nibs. It’s all very nicely packaged with a long dry, but not overly spicy finish. This one goes down real easy, but doesn’t let you forget that it’s 112 proof. A warming menthol builds on the palate as you continue with the glass. Just delicious stuff. I’m hoping these barrels are the start of the second coming of rye. We’ll just have to wait and see.
Barrell Craft Spirits 7 Year Old Single Barrel K&L Exclusive #M225 Indiana (MGP) Rye Whiskey (750ml) ($99.99)
Andrew Whiteley | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: January 13, 2021
For as wildly popular as true single barrels of whiskey are, it’s remarkable that more brands won’t bottle them. Fortunately there is Barrell. This 7 year MGP rye is a choice barrel selected first by Barrell and then once again by K&L. In the bottling we want as little done as possible and Barrell is happy to oblige. Dump it out, run it through more of a strainer than a filter to get the chunks of wood out, and stick it in a bottle. Nothing more. Barrel M225 hits the glass at a hefty yet approachable 113.7 proof and is a splendid combination of earthy spice and bright fruit. My expectation is to be dominated by spice—and it’s not lacking by any stretch—but it’s also just so much more balanced than most ryes on the market. It’s a masterclass in the wide array of flavors the rye grain has to offer all in one single barrel.
David Othenin-Girard | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: January 18, 2021
The wonderful distillery in Lawrenceburg, IN has become ubiquitous across the craft bottling scene, providing juice for countless brands throughout the country to bottle under their own label. They made their name on the modern whiskey scene selling gorgeous old rye whiskey through brands like Old Scout and High West, both of which have since exhausted their stocks as well as being sold to larger alcohol conglomerates. Slowly over the last couple of years, we’ve seen stocks rebuild and bottlers find ways to put quality juice in the bottle. Barrell has had a good line on stocks and they’ve been patient with these to bottle them when they’ve finally turned the corner maturity-wise. Barrell has a policy of bottling all single casks at the same price, which might make some old timers say this one is a bit overpriced. There is very little rye whisky of this quality on the market at any price point, however, and there’s not a single cask strength single barrel in this age range under $100 from any producers in KY, TN or Indiana that comes close. The color is auburn. The nose is earthy herbal rye, fresh and dried mint, orange peel, exotic old growth wood, and cinnamon. Really starting to show that age here. The powerful nose translates perfectly to the palate. Beautiful balance between the bold green rye flavors and sweet citrus liqueur to balance. Hints of black pepper, dill, licorice, black currants and a brambly leafiness. Not the dill bombs of yesteryear, but perfect older rye that scratches that rye itch unlike few other on the market today.
