One of the Year’s Best Single Malt Buys
1997 Ledaig 21 Year Old “Chieftain’s” K&L Exclusive Single Sherry Butt Cask Strength Unchillfiltered Island Single Malt Scotch Whisky (750ml) ($149.99)
“…this is sure to become a collectors item.” — Andrew Whiteley, K&L NorCal Spirits Buyer
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As one of the last great finds from the now retired Chieftain’s label, this 21 Year Old from Ledaig has all the makings of a collector’s favorite. Hailing from Tobermory, the only distillery on the Isle of Mull, this single malt exclusive is not only exceptionally rare but it is also very sharply priced. While we have offered Ledaigs before, rarely, if ever, do we find one that’s been aged in a sherry cask. Such a treatment takes this spirit to a whole new level, offering an engaging interplay of smoke, sherried richness, and a whirl of exotic spice. Simply put, it is downright delicious. Ledaig is one of the world’s great peated whiskies, and this a gorgeous example of the style. Savvy collectors have already added this charmer to their collection, and we expect what remains won’t last long. We are sad to see these fine expressions from Chieftain’s go, but what a brilliant conclusion to such an exceptional run of independently bottled whiskies.
1997 Ledaig 21 Year Old “Chieftain’s” K&L Exclusive Single Sherry Butt Cask Strength Unchillfiltered Island Single Malt Scotch Whisky (750ml) ($149.99)
The odd and wonderful Tobermory distillery is one of Scotland’s most picturesque and divisive. Only the Jura Distillery has more disperate opinions of their products. But something that almost every peat lover can agree on is the fact that the distiller’s peated line, Ledaig, is an absolute dream. And it’s remained in relative obscurity until recently. We’ve had a good deal of independents offer us Ledaig over the years, but it’s almost always young stocks in very quiet hogsheads. That’s simply because the mark is only produced a few weeks out of the year and is turning out to be pretty sought-after by drinkers across the world, so we’re not seeing high quality older expressions very often. When we do it’s NEVER in sherry. This distillery needs these barrels for their limited releases and rightfully so – there’s nothing better than an old smoldering Ledaig in an active sherry. No cask this year will offer more deliciousness for your dollar. Old, peated, cask strength sherry butt from a tiny distiller for under $150.
David Othenin-Girard | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: November 07, 2019
This absolutely gorgeous Ledaig is going to easily qualify as one of the best buys of the year. It’s hard to argue that Ledaig isn’t one of the most exciting spirits coming out of Scotland these days, but the distillery bottlings are getting more and more expensive. The Tobermory Distillery has also been closed for the last two years, which doesn’t do anything to ease the price pressures of this small operation. Regardless of the incredible price compared to distillery bottlings, this cask will almost certainly be a total sleeper. Not because it lacks merit in any sense, but simply because it’s not as flashy or obvious as the rest of the line up from Chieftain’s. Nonetheless, for those who take the plunge they’ll be rewarded with one of the most complex whiskies in our portfolio this year. A nose of smoldering cigars and high-end soy sauce. It’s not so abruptly peaty on the nose, but deeply umami with wide range of savory aromas that make you instantly salivate. The sherry is definitely there, but we’re on the sweet roasted orange peel side of the spectrum rather than the raisins and roasted nuts. On the palate the saltiness starts to take over and definitely more obvious peat. Smoked fish, smoked herbs, smoked meats, salty, dense, sooty and savory. Some dried citrus, nut butter and sweet barrel spice to balance out the absurdity of it all. This one may not be for everyone, but it’s goddamned delicious and absolutely unique.
Andrew Whiteley | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: March 03, 2020
One of the great peated whiskies of Scotland, but sadly often overlooked. This particular cask is an incredible rarity and smells of apple crisp and quality tobacco burning hot. Cooked fruits mingle with caramel, burnt orange peel, nutmeg, a sprinkling of seasalt and a faint background of iodine and herbs. A bit of water and it opens into more of a saddle shop complexity of leather and oil. The savory components make this a perfect whiskey for deep contemplation. It’s more subtle than many an Islay dram. A dream for any lover of island malts. Add to the exquisite nature of the whisky itself that Chieftain’s is no longer in the independent bottling business and this is sure to become a collectors item.
Jeffrey Jones | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: November 22, 2019
This cask of Ledaig from Tobermorey Distillery is expressive, interesting and inviting. Without water there are smoke, malt, and a hint of mineral-like flavors. With a little water it opens up and comes together. In the nose there is smoke with aromas of brine and malt. In the mouth, the smoke, malt, and brine flavors create a single malt that is delicious and lively. This cask of Ledaig is something to sip and think about.
Jackson Lee | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: November 15, 2019
This dram from Ledaig was extremely robust. The aromas from the glass dominated the room with iodine, tanning leather, Baker’s chocolate and preserved cherry. I got an undertone of funk mixed with the iodine, which dissipated with time and caused me to revisit the glass a few times. The palate still exhibited signs of iodine detected in the nose but added in pencil shavings and peppered jerky. After the addition of water, sweet Schezuan peppers and cherries appeared but for a brief moment. As expected from the nose, the finish was long and reminded me of fruity Korean beef jerky.
Poised and complex, with typically lifted fruitiness: strawberry ice cream, pineapple, peach, balanced by delicate oak, bamboo shoot-like delicacy, then lemon. The palate is more rounded than that very forward nose, with toffee notes adding some weight. A touch of smoke comes along in the mid-palate, before fruits and caramelized coffee biscuits. Water allows the flavors to flood the palate. Exemplary blending skills and classically Hibiki. (DB, Winter 2015) 
(12/2015)
