Singular Peated Expressions from Two Great Highland Distilleries
We are constantly on the hunt for great peated whisky. It’s easy to fall into the trap of tunnel vision in that quest and focus only on the famed Isle of Islay. While it’s true that the world’s most famous peaters come from Islay, the fact is some Highland distilleries have held onto the old way of doing things. There are a select few distilleries in the Highlands that are making spectacular peated drams. Ardmore and Loch Lomond are two of these “off-the-peaten” path gems. One young, and one old, both Loch Lomond’s Croftengea and Ardmore’s 21-year-old expression show the uniqueness of non-island peat. Each of these whiskies lacks the brine associated with the island, but delivers the pure and clean smoke, rich texture, and fruity components of the Highlands—all in one package.
It’s only January, but we may be offering the two most compelling peated whiskies we will see in 2019 right now.
Croftengea is a true rarity. While most rarities in the whisky world come with a hefty price tag, the obscurity of Loch Lomond means it has remained a hidden gem. Somewhat reclusive, this eponymously named distillery on the lake has always been self-sufficient. They are unique in that they produce every component of their blended whisky in house, be it grain whisky, or many different malts at varying peat levels. At one time, each of these malt components has been bottled on its own, but now, they are impossible to find. We dug up a single cask of Loch Lomond’s most heavily peated whisky, which goes by the name Croftengea. At its young, yet respectable age of twelve, and at full cask strength, the bright smoke of a raging fire jumps out. It plays perfectly with the bright fruits and oily texture of the malt to make for what is undoubtedly one of the best deals in peated whisky available anywhere in the world.
For every bit as amazing as the Croftengea find is, aged Ardmore, like the bottling featured here, is practically unheard of. The current lineup of official distillery bottles doesn’t go past 12 years old. An aged 25-year-old bottling can still be found, but will easily run you several hundred dollars. To be able to offer this 21 year old cask of heavily peated malt for under a hundred bucks is an absolute dream. The intensity of the peat smoke has faded into a rich and heady collection dry wood fire, honeyed fruit, and silky smooth vanilla notes.
2006 Croftengea 12 Year Old “Hepburn’s Choice” K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Scotch Whisky (750ml) ($59.99)
This oddball little malt is the first Croftengea (pronounced “Croft-N-Gay”) we’ve ever seen. The heavily peated malt from the reclusive Loch Lomand distillery is easily the best thing they make. A stupendous Highland peater that definitely has some of the more woodsy earthy smoke as well as hints of briny kippers and sea spray. A gorgeous pointed citrus quality and warming fresh bread note round out this powerful yet elegant peater and solidifies it as one of the most affordable and interesting malts we’ve ever sold this year. Similar bottles from other independents are selling for more than twice this price due to the quality and rarity. Hopefully we’ll be seeing more from this part of Loch Lomond’s oddball line up.
David Othenin-Girard | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: December 14, 2018
This gorgeous little peater is more proof the preconception in malt whisky does a disservice to all involved. Personally, I have a terrible image of the Loch Lomond distillery. Mostly that’s because the distillery bottlings are somewhat underwhelming, but also because some of the single casks we’ve come across have been down right unpleasant. So when I saw this peated version I was not expecting much. How goddamned wrong I was! This is Highland peat in its most pure form. Here the smoke has developed in a completely different way from its Islay cousins. On the nose powerful smoke ham and delicate stone fruit. There’s still a subtle salinity—oyster brine poured over roasted apricots. Some herring being smoked in the distance. On the palate it’s absolutely pristine. Fresh clean soil, smoldering clean coal briquettes, mirabelle. This is peated whisky that will satisfy even the most sensitive palate, but still interest a real Islay lover. Altogether a somewhat Bowmore-y Highlander that is making me very, very happy.
William Beare | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: November 26, 2018
“Peat and roses!” It works as a description or an exclamation, and either would apply here. This is a surprisingly complex peated scotch right from the get-go. I always taste whiskey out of a wine glass so as not to leave any notes left behind—but this can be tough with high-proof peaters that breathe fire through the sinuses. With this beauty, the sting fades away after the first few breaths. It smells like a handful of smoky earth and fragrant flower petal. The taste is rich and full, without any overwhelmingly medicinal qualities (hard to find in a well-priced peated scotch). Instead, there are big savory doses of chipotle pepper and candied almonds hiding in the wings of each sip.
Neal Fischer | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: November 26, 2018
Luscious vanilla from the start blends into cocoa and dried hot peppers. I’m picking up some dried/candied fruits and salted toffee, with just a little oily peat peeking through on the nose. Then whoa, I was not expecting that much peat on the palate. The spicy peppers blend with some tasty tarry smoke, dark leather, earth, and brine. The scotch gets chewy as I roll it around my tongue, and the flavors stay with me a long time. This is what I’m going to sip on while I decorate my house in the coming dark and chilly evenings.
Jeffrey Jones | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: November 16, 2018
This cask is a wonderful addition to the single malt selection at K&L. On the nose there are nice light smoke aromas . In the mouth smoke notes and malt flavors blend well in a the light-bodied single malt. There is a pleasant sweet finish. This is one that is going to be easy to drink and enjoy, offering something that is different and tasty.
Andrew Whiteley | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: November 11, 2018
In the world of whisky “rare” is generally synonymous with “expensive.” This doesn’t have to always been the case, sometimes you just need someone like K&L to dig up a rarity ,so obscure that the market hasn’t quite figured out what it should cost yet. Loch Lomond is an enormous distillery at the foot of its namesake lake which has the capacity to produce an entire range of spirits, 11 different makes in total. While nearly everything they make has been on the market at one time or another as an official bottling, they really mostly exist in the “behind the curtain” independent bottling and blending world. Croftengea is the most heavily peated malt they produce at Loch Lomond, and one of the most compelling. Its peat is that of pure smoke, not the sea brine associated with Islay, the spiritual home of peated malt. The fruitiness of the malt comes through in a big way, it showcases citrus, sweet pear, and ripe stone fruits that all play beautifully with the smoke of a roaring fireplace. It’s so bright that I’m tempted to call it a refreshing malt, but the idea of a refreshing smoky malt does seem odd. In tasting it I’m inclined to think it would make the perfect smoky highball. However you decide to drink it, if you like peaty whisky, you’re sure to enjoy this rarely seen brand. At the absurdly low price, you’ll be able to enjoy it now and often.
1996 Ardmore 21 Year Old “Old Malt Cask” K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Scotch Whisky (750ml) ($89.99)
Usually when we’re offered old peated malt, it comes with some expected sticker shock. We’ve had great opportunities in previously offering some older peated stocks, in particular from Old Particular via the Bowmore Distillery. And while those whiskies are relatively affordable compared to other Islays on the market, they are by no means overtly undervalued. They’re fairly priced, but still a stark premium above a regular Highlander. Right now, if we want to buy 12-year-old Laphroaig in a private barrel we’re paying upwards of £100 a bottle before importation costs. But a little distillery in the Highlands has been cranking out top-notch peated malt for decades without many people taking any notice. Partly that’s because the distillery doesn’t do much marketing, always in the shadow of the big Islays in the portfolio, namely Laphroaigh. And of course the Highland peaters have their own character and it’s especially rare to see an old one like this, some might brush this cask off because of their experience with the younger distillery bottlings. How wrong you would be to ignore stunning example. The complexity achieved here is absolutely astonishing. Sadly countless people will nonetheless skip over our poor little Ardmore due to some preconceived notions or expectations. For those who have a bit of faith and don’t want to overspend for Islay wonders, you may have found your whisky of the year. Few bottlings will deliver more pleasure for less than this buoyent little bounty.
David Othenin-Girard | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: November 20, 2018
So my business acumen was challenged with this one. I really believed that we could have easily sold it for upwards of $130+ considering how few old peaters we get and the quality of this excellent cask, but when we saw the prices I just about lost my mind. Do I take advantage of the situation and make a bit of extra coin or just put our normal mark up on this one and let it fly? Ownership probably doesn’t need to know that we could have easily made an extra $50 a bottle here and still had hundreds of happy customers, but I just couldn’t bring myself to charge more. So now we’ve got one of the best values we’ll ever see in peated malt and while it’s not the big intense Islay that the Caol Ilas are, it offers depth and complexity way beyond the price point. The peat after two decades turns into a heady bouquet of smoked orange peel, granny smith apples, salted honey candy, and exotic vanilla bean. On the palate, deep dry peat smoke (not acrid at all) that’s warming and absolutely balanced. It reminds me of a cleaner Springbank. Shimmering and still with tons of freshness, the peat adds nuance, but is not the centerpiece. Instead, more sweet citrus, earthy malt, deep spice. Absolute balance is the key here. This might be the best value of the year.
Andrew Whiteley | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: November 13, 2018
A slamming selection of 20+ year old malts this year offer incredible value. The Ardmore fits right in. The gentle wood smoke-like peat of Ardmore has melted into the background with the age of this cask. Golden fruit, golden grain, and golden color is the name of the game here. The beautiful fruity malt of Ardmore’s long and clean fermentations rides high above the peat that has softened incredibly with age. At the time this cask was distilled, Ardmore still coal fired their stills. This process, while extremely dangerous, does seem to yield a more rich and complex flavor due to hotspots on the still. It’s so important in fact, that Ardmore build specially kinked steam coils to replicate these hot spots when they moved to the safer method of heating the stills. This is a rare chance to grab a glass of whiskey history, as only a tiny handful of distilleries still direct fire.
Jeffrey Jones | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: November 26, 2018
A very delicious single malt. The nose is complex with delicate smoke dominating aromas. In the mouth it is soft, round, and light to medium bodied. A nice kiss of sweetness helps add complexity. A steal at this price.
Neal Fischer | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: November 26, 2018
So. Much. Honey! Coming along with the beehive are notes of stone fruits and melted butter, like in a freshly baked pie. Those familiar with Ardmore are used to a bit of peat in this old-school Highland malt; there’s a little less smoke on this cask than with the standard bottling, but still enough to please long-time fans of the dram. The palate is good and salty, leathery, and dusted with white pepper. The medium-long finish is very drying and earthy.
