One of the hardest things to do as a retailer/importer is to temper your enthusiasm (I’m terrible at it) when making a large purchase. One question that often arises is how much of the pleasure we derive from tasting is due to the quality of the liquid itself, and how much it comes from the romance of travel? For example, I continue to buy cask after cask of available Bowmore because I will always think about our first night at the distillery in 2011 with Jamie MacKenzie (pictured here with David OG). It was a cold and foggy night and we were fresh off the ferry, our first visit to Islay. I’ll think about that wonderful memory each and every time I take a sip of Bowmore whisky, so that’s when I have to ask myself: does this latest cask of Bowmore really cut the mustard, or am I letting myself get carried away by sentimentality?

Which brings me the latest K&L single cask arrival: a heavenly 22 year old hogshead that was bottled for us by our friends at Sovereign. Let’s go down the list with what is yet another great deal from our direct barrel program (one that the current Pound/Dollar rate will make difficult moving forward): 1) The standard edition of Bowmore 25 year sells for about $400, while the standard 18 year comes in around $130. At full proof, this 22 year comes in at well less than the 25 and for only a bit more than the distillery’s 18 year old edition. That’s a great price. 2) Despite the isolated single barrel character, this whisky is incredibly balanced. You’ve got loads of vanilla, plenty of peat smoke, and a lovely, oily texture. You’d think this was blended into harmony, but it just so happens to taste that way right out of the cask! 3) Finding Islay whiskies with age in this market is getting harder and harder. We can get as much no-name Highland whisky as our customers can buy, but to secure barrels from the legendary peated whisky distilleries is becoming a tough task. I’m doing everything I can to lock down more supply, but the truth is it’s not something I can assume will continue with any frequency at this point. Needless to say, you can’t go wrong with a classic expression of Bowmore. This isn’t an anomaly in any way. It’s everything you hope it will be with no rough edges and plenty of richness to balance out the campfire notes. Plus, my colleague Alex thinks it’s one of the best whiskies he’s ever had. That’s saying something.

1995 Bowmore 22 Year Old K&L Exclusive “Sovereign” Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky (750ml) ($139.99)

Andrew Whiteley | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: January 24, 2018

As my colleague Alex said when I asked if he had tasted our sample bottle, “It’s one of the best scotches that has ever passed my lips.” I think that sums things up nicely. Especially when you consider the context. 22 years old, cask strength, single barrel, etc… I can’t argue. This whisky ranks. It’s loaded with citrus, fresh peat smoke, sugar candy and caramels. It’s a little salty. That classic brine character really shines through and complements the delicate fruitiness that lingers on the palate. Add in the complex herbaceous notes that waft in and out and you’ve got yourself a very complete, very balanced whisky. In short: you’ve got old Bowmore. I expect the only complaints we will register in the Spirits department on this one are about not having enough bottles to sell.

Alex Schroeder | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: January 17, 2018

This is one of the best expressions of Islay peat that I’ve ever tasted. The peat is subtle on this one, almost lost in the aromas of honeyed grains and marmalade on the nose. On the palate, the smoke shows up elegantly behind the rich creamy sweetness of the malt, eventually matching that intensity for a full proof, 51% abv masterpiece. The complex and delicious flavors stick around for an incredible finish.