Ralfy Publishes Whisky Review #710 – Irish Whiskey News
Ralfy travels across the Irish Sea for Ralfy Review 710 – Dunvilles PX 10yo @ 46%vol.
Ralfy travels across the Irish Sea for Ralfy Review 710 – Dunvilles PX 10yo @ 46%vol.
Legendary rare whisky fetches world record at auction
A rare 30 year old bottle of second edition Black Bowmore single malt whisky has been bought for a record £11,900 in an online auction held by Perth-based Whisky Auctioneer. (www.whiskyauctioneer.com)
Bought by an investor from the USA, the new record for this legendary bottle of rare whisky exceeds the previous mark of £9,500 set in 2017, according to records from rare whisky analysts Rare Whisky 101.
The record-breaking bottle is the second of the three Oloroso cask 1964 Bowmores released in the mid-1990s. As one of 2000 bottles, it originally retailed on the high street for around £80. Over the last 20 years, it has achieved almost mythical status among whisky fans the world over. It is not known how many bottles are left in circulation.
The bottle was one of over 4,500 bottles being auctioned off in December by Whisky Auctioneer, securing a total of more than £1.2 million. Other notable sales included:
The world record price achieved for the Black Bowmore Second Edition reflects the ongoing boom in the secondary market for rare whisky, with an increasing number of collectors, connoisseurs and investors participating in the market through online auctions. Over the past year alone, Whisky Auctioneer has seen a 36% rise in the number of users.
Unlike the traditional auction houses, online auctioneers are able to offer a catalogue of bottles to their global database of buyers, frequently breaking records as more and more users participate in these easy to use and exciting auctions. Whisky Auctioneer has simplified the process by which people from across the world can buy and sell whisky reaching a global audience of more than fifty countries, underlining rare whisky’s growing global appeal, and the ability of online auction houses to open up those markets to rare whisky trading.
Sean McGlone, director, Whisky Auctioneer said: “We were expecting some high bids for this incredible whisky, we hoped it would exceed expectations and break all previous records. It just goes to show how iconic this expression has become among whisky collectors and aficionados the world over. As more consumers discover the joys of rare and vintage whisky, it’s difficult to see how demand won’t continue to increase pushing up prices for those brands and bottles which are most coveted.
“Fortunately at Whisky Auctioneer we are continuing to attract some of the very best collections for sale worldwide. Having moved the world’s largest private collection of rare Japanese Karuizawa whisky last year for a record breaking amount, and setting records for icons such as this 30 year old Black Bowmore, we are developing a reputation as one of the very best whisky auctioneers available for both buyers and sellers. We’ll do our bit to help growing the market by continuing to improve our service to make it easy as possible for whisky collectors to trade.”
For more information about Whisky Auctioneer, please visit www.whiskyauctioneer.com.
Whisky Auctioneer specialises in auctioning whisky, whether it be fine, old, rare, collectable or affordable. Formed in 2013 and based in Perth, central Scotland, Whisky Auctioneer aims to be the most comprehensive website available for the buying and selling of whisky.
Australia Day
With Starward Whisky
Join us Friday 26th January to celebrate Australia day with a BBQ outside.
Anyone who buys a bottle of Starward gets entered in to win a bottle of the very rare 10th anniversary release (Matured in 28 casks of different ages and 8 different types, mostly first-fill Australian wine barrels, Non-Chill filtered and naturally coloured). We will have a BBQ outside with anyone who buys a dram/bottle/Starward Highball (focus serve with the brand this year) gets a free snag sanga (sausage sandwich). Made by a geuine Australian.
To get in the mood, why not try the whisky….
STARWARD WINE CASK EDITION, 41%
Aged in local Shiraz barrels and new American oak, this fruit forward whisky is not one to miss. New on the market, add this to your collection and you will not be disappointed…
£52.95
STARWARD WHISKY SOLERA EDITION, 43%
Australian whisky? Yes indeed. An aroma of ripe orchard fruits: pears, bananas and apples with raisins and dried figs. Caramel, vanilla and marzipan balance the fruit.
£46.95
Ladies and gentlemen,
Let me introduce you to the best new whisky I’ve tried in months and the most exciting release of 2018 thus far: the Bunnahabhain 14 year old Limited Release Pedro Ximenez Finish, bottled at 54.3%. Not only is it going to send sherry bomb addicts into a sugar-induced coma, it’s going to have Macallan and Glendronach drinkers scrambling into an all-out bunker war for who can acquire the largest stash. Aged in refill sherry butts, then finished for three years in PX sherry butts (the sweetest sherry of them all), you immediately get a toffee-laden mouthful of dripping wet suppleness, bolstered by the sea salt of the Bunnahabhain brine. Imagine a big salted caramel in whisky form, oozing across your palate and sliding ever slow slowly down your gullet with each sip. Sounds pretty amazing, right? Take into consideration that this is an official distillery release, limited in quantity, immense in quality, and clocking in at a fantastic 108.6 proof, all for a hundred bucks.
The question you should be asking yourself now is not whether to buy a bottle, but rather how many?
It’s awesome, to say the least. I’ve been sipping on it for five straight days now and I’ve yet to get tired of it. Staunch Islay fans may lament the lack of heavy peat, but there’s just the slightest hint of phenolic smoke on the finish, interlocked with all the dried fruits, sweet syrup, and creamy malt character. They only made 5900 bottles of this for the world and I’ve already drained two of them, so they’re disappearing as fast as I can drink them.
If you even remotely like sherry-matured single malt, you’re going to want at least one bottle. However, if you’re a serious sherry head I would strongly advocate for multiples. I can promise you you’ll be kicking yourself down the road. The level of saturation and sweetness, coupled with the proof creates quite the harmonious balance. This is the type of whisky that got me excited about single malt in the first place more than a decade ago. If you haven’t guessed already, I really, really like it. Bravo Bunnahabhain!
– David Driscoll, K&L Assistant Head Buyer
Bunnahabhain 14 Year Old PX Sherry Finish Single Malt Scotch Whisky (750ml) ($99.99)
Destined to be one of the most talked about bottles of 2018, this limited distillery edition of Bunnahabhain comes in at 54.3% ABV and packs gobs of sweet, supple, toffee-laden Pedro Ximenez sherry character into a rich, dark, and mouthcoating edition that combines the salt and sea of Islay with the unctuous and raisiny character of a malt like Glendronach. Using only first-fill PX butts for the finishing process, the finish seduces the palate with notes of honey, chocolate, and spice cake that take decadence to a whole new level. The higher proof ensures balance to all that hedonistic splendor, never allowing the weight to become too cloying or sticky. Sherry heads will go absolutely bananas for this, but fans of single malt whisky in general should not miss this. Finding unique and interesting new whiskies that are 1) from Islay, 2) sherry matured, 3) over 100 proof, and 4) with an actual age statement for $100 or less is a rare treat in today’s market. What a great way to start 2018!
David Othenin-Girard | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: January 16, 2018
I have to be honest, it’s been a little while since I’ve been truly excited by a distillery release of Bunnahabhain. Yes the distillery consistently offers awesome whisky thru their standard line up, but nothing we’ve gotten in the recent memory has truly moved the needle like this special little whisky. I also have to note that I was a bit skeptical of lovely delicate Bunnah in big sweet PX, but oh god was I wrong. This has such an incredible balance, I struggle to think of another PX finished Scotch that was so well integrated. The nose wafts from the glass immediately I think salt water taffy. Then into crunchy toffee, butterscotch, pecan butter, salted dried plums and even a some chocolatey malt! The palate is absolutely bonkers. Straight up chocolate covered raisins. The texture is perfect, full, mouth coating, but not cloying. That salty Bunnah malt peaking out through the rich fruit, coco and honey crisps. The finish is long and lifted with that one crucial element reigning over all others, BALANCE! They must be using some pretty high quality sherry here. An absolute dream to drink. No wonder this stuff is sold out nearly everywhere else in the world.
Andrew Whiteley | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: January 16, 2018
I didn’t know this existed until David brought it to my attention and thankfully he brought it into K&L! This is a limited release from the famed Bunnahabhain distillery. It is a true sherry bomb. Grown up in second fill sherry casks for many years and then transferred for 3 additional years into first fill PX casks for a sticky, sweet, toffee, coffee, nutty, figgy, beautifully sherried whisky. All done at a full cask strength of 54.3% and sliding in under the $100 mark. What’s not to love? The supple texture and boundless richness of this will knock your socks off.

Bottled January 2018. A Whisky Barrel favourite from the Highland distillery matured in the finest Oloroso sherry casks. Shhh.. the price is increasing significantly very soon… stock up now while you can! Sweet aromatics of fudge and muscovado sugar. Fruit compote and glacier morello cherries provide added complexity. On the palate remarkable flavours of stewed fruits and all-spice marry together with classical aged Oloroso and toasted walnut bread and chocolate orange. Glendronach Distillery was established north east of Huntley in the Highland whiskey region by James Allardice in 1826. The malting floors at Glendronach Distillery closed in 1996 and it was the last distillery in Scotland to heat its stills directly with flames from a coal-fired furnace, until it had to comply with new regulations in 2005. Glendronach Distillery is resplendent with a traditional cask iron mash tun, wooden washbacks, four stills. Famous for its well-aged and top quality sherried single malt, for example Glendronach 21 Year Old Parliament, and single cask releases. The distillery is now owned by Brown Forman of America.

Happy New Year and welcome to the first Malt Messenger of 2018. I hope you are all well rested and relaxed, because we are starting the year with a massive whisky newsletter. A lot of new whiskies have trickled into the shop over the last few weeks, adding to others that arrived in the week between Christmas & New Year’s. You could say Christmas has been extended.
There are a handful of tickets left for Tuesday’s Tomatin Takedown with Scott Frazier. We will be highlighting our new Tomatin 1999 KWM Single Cask, and a range of other whiskies from the distillery, all for just $30. Scott is a knowledgeable and very entertaining presenter. You won’t want to miss this tasting with him. Call 403-283-8000 to register, or register online!
For over a decade, Kensington Wine Market marked Robbie Burns Day with our legendary Burns Supper. That was until the powers that be told us we were not allowed to hold such events… So, for the past two years we’ve put on the Burns Bash, a mini-Whisky Festival in honour of the Bard. The third annual Burns Bash, Thursday January 25th, will also serve as the opening salvo of our Year End Inventory Sale (January 26-28). Participants will receive a KWM 25th Anniversary Glencairn Glass and will be able to sample between 80 and 100 whiskies. All for just $30!
Our 2nd exclusive single barrel of Wyoming Whiskey Distillery found its way in to the store just before New Year’s. And we feel the Wyoming KMW Single Barrel #2 is even better than our first single barrel Bourbon from the Kirby, Wyoming distillery. This Bourbon is open at our shop for sampling – further details can be found below.
Some exciting new Adelphi whiskies arrived in-store this morning. The second ever spirit release of Ardnamurchan (Spirit 2017 AD) is here. The first not quite whisky from the newish (2014) Ardnamurchan Distillery was a hit, and we expect the second release will be too. I have had the opportunity to write up my own tasting note, and it does not disappoint. We also have stunning Adelphi bottlings of Aultmore 1982, Bowmore 1989, Miltonduff 1983 and Breath of Speyside 2006.
We have good news, bad news and then more good news when it comes to Cadenhead. The good news is the 2nd batch of Cadenhead 175th Anniversary releases is here. The bad news is that we only received 6 bottles each of Burnside 1989, Caol Ila 1982, Cooley 1992, Laphroaig 1990, Macallan 1990 and Mortlach 1987, and all but 2 bottles each of the Burnside and Caol Ila are sold! The “more good news”, is that we saved a bottle of each for a tasting in the Spring, and we have another release of Cadenhead whiskies to tell you about, Batch 18.
Two stunning new Compass Box whiskies hit the market between Christmas and New Year’s too. The long awaited Compass Box No Name (75.5% Ardbeg) and Compass Box Phenomenology are in-store and available for tasting while supplies last. These whiskies are further testament the Compass Box’s John Glaser is almost singlehandedly making Blended Whisky cool again! Kensington Wine Market has a new exclusive Japanese whisky. The first shipment of 90 bottles of White Oak Akashi Blended Japanese Whisky arrived in-store in the days before Christmas. It was sold out by New Year’s. We’ve just had another shipment arrive of this tasty-amazing-value-whisky, a further 90 bottles, which we don’t expect to last long…
Late last week we had the opportunity to sample the Benromach Triple Distilled, we were gobsmacked! Far from a gimmick, this young tripled distilled Benromach blew us away with its flavour and complexity. At $93 it is a must-buy whisky… so we bought the last 48 bottles remaining in Alberta! We have some new whiskies from London-based independent bottler Valinch & Mallet. Whiskies from Caol Ila, Springbank, Heaven Hill, Cooley and others. We will be trying them as opportunity presents over the next few months.
Two big guns from Diageo are in-store. The Brora 34 Year arrived just before Christmas. A departure from the last 3 official releases, all of which were distilled in the 1970s. This one is from 1982, the year before the distillery closed. We are expecting another closed distillery whisky from Diageo next week, the Convalmore 32 Year. This is only the second official bottling of Convalmore we’ve ever seen at KWM
In Bourbon news we have a new Michter’s to tell you about, the Michter’s Toasted Barrel Finish Rye. This is the follow up to last year’s Toasted Barrel Finish Bourbon – and Evan believes the Rye is the better of the two. We are also getting a few bottles of the Michter’s 10 Year Bourbon, limit 1 per customer.
Finally there is a new no age statement Highland Park, Magnus. We had low expectations for it as it is young and in a black bottle, presumably to mask its pale colour. But for a sub $50 malt, it is very drinkable. We have a bottle in-store for sampling. The introductory price is $42 while supplies last. I hope you and yours had a good holiday season. I wish you and yours all the best for a safe, healthy and prosperous 2018. I also hope you enjoy Malt Messenger No. 83. Slàinte! Andrew In This Edition
Andrew FergusonKensington Wine MarketPS – Don’t forget you can follow me on Twitter:@scotch_guy, Instagram: @thescotch_guy/or @kwmwhisky and Facebook: facebook.com/scotch.guy.1
The January 25th KWM Burns Bash & Year End Inventory Sale!
Lots of fun and savings to be had, January 25-28!
To knock off our Year End Inventory Sale celebrations, we are having a mini-festival in-store from 7-9PM on Thursday January 25th, Burns Day. There will be loads of whisky, 80-100 different types open for sampling, food and some great deals. Participants will get a sneak peak at the Year End Inventory Sale’s best deals. The cost to attend also includes a 25th Anniversary KWM Logo Glencairn Glass. All this for just $30… we are pretty confident the Bard would approve!
Call 403-283-8000 or register online!
Introducing the Wyoming KWM Single Barrel Bourbon #2
Even Better Than Our First…
Our 2nd exclusive barrel of Wyoming Whiskey Bourbon is here, and another cracker! Bottled at 53.3% from a single barrel, #3483, that gave us but 192 bottles. Pop into the store for a taste! Wyoming is a wheated Bourbon, and always rich but delicate in character.
Andrew’s Tasting Note
Nose: creamy, decadent and doughy; like walking into a warm, French bakery, early on a cold morning; the air is filled with the aromas of fresh bread, buttery croissants, pain au chocolate, pastries and glazed fruit flan; some lovely dark sugars, bright orange and dark fruits.
Palate: doughy, creamy and fruity; still soft, more fruits than the nose lets on: orange, melons and spicy mango salsa; the dried dark fruits appear at the back of the palate; some perfumed-floral tones with crisp decadent spice: candied ginger and cinnamon sticks dry out into cloves and black pepper.
Finish: coating, warm and spicy; stays decadent with fading creamy oak, gentle fruits and sugars.
Comment: most of the time I feel Bourbon is best suited in an Old Fashioned; but who needs bitters, sugar and orange peels when you have all of that and more right in the bottle; this is another stellar barrel of Kirby Wyoming’s finest!
Evan’s Tasting Note
Nose: Buttermilk Pancakes drizzled with syrup. Raspberry jam, blueberries, blackberries, freshly peeled peaches, light toffee and caramel notes, light mint, oak shavings and vanilla.
Palate: Rich and spicy. Peaches and cream, marmalade, blackberry jam, baked apples, cinnamon buns, kettle corn, roasted almonds and black licorice candies.
Finish: Smooth and warm. Wonderfully palate coating with spice notes to keep it from being cloying.
Comment: This is the second Wyoming Bourbon single cask we have selected for KWM and we couldn’t be happier. It is a different beast compared to our first cask: more subtle and integrated and not as brash and in your face. It is incredibly well-rounded in style.
Pop into the shop for a free sample, or order a bottle from our website. $98
New Adelphi Whiskies
They are only just arriving today, and they are already going fast!
These very limited new whiskies will be trickling into the store beginning today. I was given some advanced samples, and took the time to write them up. They did not disappoint, but then again Alex Bruce rarely-if-ever does!
New Cadenhead 175th Anniversary Releases
Round 2 – Iconic Distilleries
The second batch of 175th Anniversary Cadenhead bottlings is here. The first, which sold out quickly, focused on closed distillery, the second release focuses on iconic distilleries: Caol Ila, Mortlach, Burnside (Balvenie), Macallan, Cooley and Laphroaig. We are getting just 6 bottles of each, and are holding back 1 of each for a tasting… so there were just 5 of each available! In the time it took to pull this newsletter together, all but 2 each of the Cooley and Burnside have sold. The whiskies were and are limited to 1 per customer.
NEW Cadenhead Batch 18 Releases
9 New Single Cask & Small Batch Whiskies
We have 9 whiskies available from Cadenhead’s 18th release, just 6-18 bottles of each are coming to Canada, exclusively to KWM!
Check out the full list of Cadenhead Whiskies available from KWM!
Introducing Two New Compass Box Whiskies
No Name & Phenomenology
I first mentioned these whiskies in May, taunting people back home with my tasting notes after visiting Compass Box’s offices in London. The whiskies were bottled later in the year and only just arrived in Alberta in the days between Christmas & New Year’s. In the last week they have released additional info on both whiskies, including very detailed notes on the composition of each blend. The whiskies are beautiful. Details below and even more on the KWM Website.
Compass Box No Name
What does John Glaser do when he puts his hands on a parcel of tasty 2003 Ardbeg casks? He asks himself what should I blend it with… Ultimately the peatiest ever release of Compass Box was produced from more than 70% Ardbeg with Caol Ila, Clynelish and a small parcel of French oak matured whiskies to round things out. Bottled at 48.9%. The recipe:
75.5% Ardbeg 2003 – 13 Year – Rechar barrel
10.6% Caol Ila 2001 – 16 Year – Refill barrel
13.4% Clynelish 2002 – 15 Year – Rechar Hogshead
0.5% French Oak BR – 9 Year – ASB
Compass Box No Name– 48.9% – Andrew’s Tasting Note: “Nose: a big surge of malt, caramel and tarry ropes; an ocean pier at low tide; big orangey tones and chocolate; burnt smores, seaweed and kelp drying in the sun on the beach. Palate: big, bold, malty and smoky; still tarry and mildly-medicinal; orange, more burnt smores with sweet-waxy-honey tones and floral notes; some licorice, demerara sugars and briny-seaweed. Finish: rich, long, elegant and malty; the orange, honey and floral vanilla still shine through, with a touch of the medicinal tones. Comment: big but round, bold but tamed; the Ardbeg adds a dimension to Compass Box I’ve never seen before. Having tried the Ardbeg on its own, as well as the blend it is interesting to see what they have added to it. Curiously the Caol Ila and Clynelsih, even is small doses is very apparent.” – $140
Compass Box Phenomenology

The firm was keeping pretty tight-lipped on this one until December. This limited edition blended malt has been bottled at 46%, and judging by the profile, it isn’t young… I had a chance to sample it in September in London! “Phenomenolog y is a way of thinking about ourselves and the very personal, subjective nature of experience. It’s a school of thought in psychology that focuses on phenomena, or, the experiences that we get from our senses – what we see, taste, smell, etc. Somehow we saw a link between phenomenology and whisky.” The Recipe:
24.5% Tamdhu 2001 – 15 year – 1st fill Bourbon barrel
72.0% Glenlossie 1996 – 21 year – Rechar Hogshead
2.0% Highland Park 1997 – 20 – Rechar Hogshead
1.0% Talisker 1996 – 21 year – Refill Butt
0.5% Caol Ila 2006 – 11 year – Hogshead
Compass Box Phenomenology – 46% – Andrew’s Tasting Note: “Nose: big white fruits, honey, freshly picked cherries and banana chips; a touch woody with a musty edge; floral and malty; hints of smoke, some soft coffee tones, raisin danishes and dried apricots . Palate: big, round, coating and juicy; more white fruits, creamed honey and toasted oak, and then the smoke sneaks up on you; the smoke is elegant and delicate and leads to a soft but firm peat. Finish: big, chewy and coating; dries out late with smooth smoke. Comment: the smoke creeps up on you; this is lovely; very drinkable.” – $230
Introducing White Oak Akashi Blended Japanese Whisky
A Very Good Quality v. Value Proposition, & it is Very Tasty!
We jumped at the opportunity to introduce the Akashi White Oak Blended Japanese whisky to the Alberta market. Bottled at 40% the whisky is composed of single malts from the Eigashima distillery in Akashi City, Hyogo. The whisky was matured in Shochu (American Oak), ex-Bourbon barrels and ex-Sherry casks. Bottled at 40%.
White Oak Akashi Japanese Blended Whisky – 40% – Ex-Bourbon, Shochu & Sherry Casks – Andrew’s Tasting Note: “Nose: nutty and fruity with a silky air; caramel apples with a crisp citrus backbone; floral and toasty. Palate: medium bodied, nutty chocolate fudge, dried apricots and citrus; more caramel apple and tea dregs with Demerra sugar; sweet, honeyed and toasty; polished fruits and a savoury umami element. Finish: medium-short, clean, fruity and sweet; very elegant. Comment: this is a big cup whisky, as my staff would say; elegant and tasty; crushable; you will want a big cup!” – $65
Introducing Benromach Triple Distiled
A Limited Edition Sub $100 Single Malt that You Must Try!
This came in as a bit of a surprise. We sampled it without expectations and we were blown away. It is not that we don’t have high regard and confidence in Benromach bottlings, we just thought it seemed a little gimmicky. Triple distilled whiskies, by nature of their further rectification (purification in the still), especially young ones, are a little blander and can be a bit boring. Even for just an 8 year old, this one is anything but! This is the first bottling of triple distilled Benromach. Distilled in 2009 and bottled at 50% after maturing in first fill Ex-Bourbon barrels.
Benromach Triple Distilled – 50% – First Fill Ex-Bourbon – Andrew’s Tasting Note: “Nose: very fresh, floral, honeyed and waxy; creamy with white fruits, citrus and a touch of young mezcal. Palate: wow, this is lovely, I am a bit dumbfounded; very pretty, fruity and waxy; this has the palate of oxidized, delicate older malts; loads of soft floral honey, with the classic orange, chocolate and just a touch of smoke; layers of fruit and a touch savoury… like the finest mescal. Finish: fresh, creamy, floral and toasty; savoury with clean smoke. Comment: Benromach has stumbled onto something here… this is what I look for in the best, delicate older whiskies, but this is just 8-ish years old; wow!” – $93
Distiller’s Description & Tasting Note: “Pour yourself a dram and regard the luminous pale golden colour, created by passing this gorgeous Single Malt Whisky through our copper pot stills no less than three times during distillation. Enjoy the mellow AROMA WITHOUT WATER… after a few inhalations you may detect strawberry, elderflower and sweet vanilla mingling with orange citrus. Enjoy the TASTE WITHOUT WATER… roll it around your mouth and savour the creamy malt, touch of white pepper and hints of zingy lime zest, sweet vanilla and toasted oak beautifully balanced with rich dark chocolate and smoky bonfire embers. Add a wee trickle of water and appreciate the AROMA WITH WATER… sweet and fruity with subtle floral notes. You may discern delicious undertones of orange citrus and vanilla. Now for the TASTE WITH WATER… the smooth and sweet body has an elegant, delicate flavour, with a touch of cracked black pepper, fresh grapefruit and lime citrus and a hint of oak and bonfire embers, leading to a luscious long and fruity finish with a lingering edge of smoke. Tell us what you think.”
Introducing: Valinch & Mallet Whiskies
A New to Canada Independent Bottler of Scotch & Other Whiskies
We don’t have much in the way of info on these new independent bottlings, except the word of the importer that he’s tried them and they are excellent. We will be cracking bottles here and there as opportunity presents. Some of them are very limited and not likely to last long. Curious about the producer: http://www.valinchandmallet.com/our-story.html .
Introducing Brora 34 Year 2017
Just think it will be 36 years, at least, until the soon to be reopened Brora Distillery has whisky this old!
That Diageo would put out yet another annual release of Brora was not a surprise, but the announcement a few weeks back that they would reopen the distillery certainly was. Along with Port Ellen and Rosebank, the long closed distillery is set to reopen. But of the three it has the greatest chance of someday reliving its past glory, as much of its equipment is still in place. Having said that, I will be in my mid-late 70’s by the time its whisky reaches this age. 92pts Serge @ Whisky Fun! Bottled at 51.9% from Re-fill American Oak.
Brora 34 Year – 51.9% – Refill American Oak – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Nose: At first maritime and mineral, with dried seaweed. Then a wave of flavours suggest a cider farm’s workshop in springtime. Finally, sweet flavours roll in with green leaves, all on a faintly waxy base. Palate: The waxy texture for which Brora is renowned starts sharper than you expect, with fruit, chili and fresh-ground black pepper. As the heat subsides, fruity dark chocolate and soft barrel-char smoke appear. Finish: Some spice in the finish as aniseed slowly fade to leave sweet-spicy oak. With a final quick burst of black pepper and sweet fruit.” – $2250
Tasting Note by Serge @whiskfun.org: “Indeed, perhaps not Brora’s best vintage, but let’s see what gives… Colour: straw. Nose: it frankly is a Clynelishy Brora. Virtually, this is Clynelish, with this waxy style, the ripe fruits, the faint smokiness, this orange peel, and all the beeswax. And lamp oil, hay, a little clay… All very fine, all quite subtle, and yet rather fat and assertive. Class. Mouth: wonderful. This time, it’s more Brora than Clynelish, with more mineral notes, more chalk, a small mustardy side, more sea elements, and rather more lemons than tangerines. Also green bananas, ripe white currants, and some slightly smoky lemons. Some wulong tea as well, this is very complex. Finish: only medium, but beautifully waxy and citrusy. Totally love the saltier signature. Oysters? Comments: not a peat master, but in a higher league than that of several previous 1982s by G&M (CCs and such). It’s good that they had decided to keep this puncheon until the year 2015. Smart decision! SGP:553″ – 92 points.
Coming Soon: Convalmore 34 Year
The First Official Release in Years!
This 32 year old distillery bottling of Convalmore was distilled in 1984 and filled into Re-fill American oak Hogsheads. It was bottled earlier this year at 48.2%. Bottlings from the closed Convalmore distillery are very rare, even from independent bottlers. This is only the 4th official bottling ever done of this whisky. 93pts Serge @whiskyfun.org.
Convalmore 32 Year– 48.2% – 1984 – Refill American Oak – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Nose: A mellow base aroma, soft and sweet, like a buttery pastry case, lightly dusted with nutmeg ready for a custard filling, or perhaps almond oil and oak shavings. Above this, there’s a fruity filling of gently sour apples, spiced pears and ripe melon, orange peel too, before an intense brown sugar sweetness builds. The spicy notes continue to develop, with clove and cinnamon-laced biscuits balanced by candied lemon, more sharp apple and an underlying green herbiness. A drop of water introduces a waxy note and suppresses the fruity elements. Palate: Smooth, sweet and fruity, with a trace of crisp acidity and oak spice to balance the sweetness before it can cloy. The apples and pastry on the nose persist, now caramelized and bitter-sweet, as part of the fruity centre palate. With a splash of water the taste becomes lightly sweeter, while light acidity again steps in to reveal more complexity. The fruit is savoury; light floral notes appear; the oak picks up char; the spice is toasted and fragrant. Finish: Warming, spicy and lingering, with liquorice that fades to stewed, baked and fresh-sliced apples and warming oak that persists in closing, bitter-sweet flavours.” – $1650
93pts Serge @WhiskyFun.org: “Convalmore 32 yo 1984/2017 (48.2%, OB, Special Release, refill American oak hogsheads, 3,972 bottles) Five stars Loved the previous ones, especially the 1977/2013 (WF 94!) The 1978/2003 Rare Malts was great too (WF 90). Colour: pale gold. Nose: the wonderful self-restraint and beauty of these old-school Speysiders that never saw any sherry or any newish oak. Superb beeswax, olive and sunflower oils, verbena tea, menthol cigarettes (mum’s Kools), then assorted slightly overripe garden fruits, certainly apples and timid pears, an old bottle of linseed oil, rubbed grapefruit skins, a spoonful of honeydew, some gum arabic, and just a touch of natural rubber. I find this splendid, and so beautifully elegant and complex at the same time! And so un-modern… Mouth: awe… The most superb combination of herbal teas and soft fruit juices, on a waxy base. Some fresh mint for sure, verbena again, a touch of wormwood, honeysuckle tea, some pink grapefruits bringing the fruity contribution, and finally, a little bit of paraffin, going towards beeswax but not totally so. After three minutes, a few drops of cough syrup are starting to drip over it (eucalyptus, with hints of camphor). Finish: Comments: could this baby be the best within the bunch this year? I haven’t tried the Port Ellen yet at time of writing, but what’s sure is that this superb Convalmore is a strong contender. To think that Diageo managed to come up with four thousand bottles just like that… This is highly impressive! SGP:562 – 93 points.”
Introducing Michter’s Toasted Barrel Finish Rye
A New Limited Edition Release & We Have More 10 Year Bourbon
The latest limited edition Michter’s whiskey arrived just before Christmas. This rye is a follow up to last year’s Toast Barrel Finish Bourbon. Both whiskies were finished in new American oak barrels which were toasted rather than charred.
Michter’s Toasted Barrel Finish Rye – 55.1% – Producer Description: “While our Michter’s team distills according to tried and true Kentucky practices, it continually experiments as it pursues Michter’s goal of making the greatest American whiskeys. Following years of research on different barrel finishes for Rye whiskey, we are proud to offer this release of our Michter’s US 1 Toasted Barrel Rye. To make it we take our US 1 Kentucky Straight Rye at barrel strength and then age it for an additional period in a second custom barrel. This second barrel is assembled from 24 month air dried wood and then toasted but not charred. The result is a unique Rye whiskey that we take pride in offering to you. The strength of the majority of barrels selected for this whiskey’s first ever release taking place this September 2017 ranges in proof from 107 to 111.8 proof.” – $150
We also have the Michter’s 10 Year Bourbon back in-stock this week, just 6 bottles!
Michter’s 10 Year Bourbon – 47.2% – From the Distillery: “Mature in age and truly exceptional in quality, Michter’s 10 Year Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon has earned its place as an enduring favorite of the most discerning whiskey connoisseurs. The “Best American Whiskey” according to Food & Wine magazine, our 10 Year Single Barrel Bourbon represents the culmination of over a decade of patient aging in our specially chosen, new charred American white oak barrels.” Tasting Note: “Big and bold dark toffee and caramel, charred oak, maple syrup, vanilla.” – $240
Introducing Highland Park Magnus
Great Bang for Your Buck
I had low expectations for the new Highland Park Magnus, a no age statement Highland Park matured in sherry seasoned American oak casks and bottled at 40%. For a sub $50 whisky it is very good, I only wish we’d seen it at a higher proof!
Highland Park Magnus – 40% – American Oak Sherry – Andrew’s Tasting Note: Nose: fresh, honeyed and malty; soft citrus tones; white cupcakes with vanilla icing and sprinkles; burning heather on a muddy beach. Palate: still fresh, thick, creamy and coating; honeyed and malty; more cupcakes with sprinkles; the smoke is still delicate, smouldering heather on a muddy beach; a touch waxy with citrus and subtle sherry. Finish: drying and spicy; clean smoke, leather and earth. Comment: miles from mind-blowing, but very drinkable for a sub $50 single malt; just wish it had been bottled at 46%!” – $43
Producer Tasting Note: Lemon | Vanilla sponge cake | Caramelised pineapple | Aromatic peat smoke | Sweet violets.
Producer Story: “Magnus Eunson was a direct descendant of the Vikings who settled on Orkney hundreds of years ago. He set up his illicit still in a bothy (a small stone hut) at High Park, Kirkwall that’s still the site of our distillery today. And, while we say Highland Park was founded in 1798, in truth that’s just the year that the authorities caught up with Magnus – he was certainly making whisky before that!
“We stay true to our founder’s bold and uncompromising approach to whisky making – very little has changed here in the last 220 years. In MAGNUS, we celebrate this unbroken tradition with a single malt whisky, matured in Sherry seasoned American oak casks, that delivers notes of sweet vanilla, overlaid with our distinctive aromatic smokiness.”
Thank You for Reading the Malt Messenger!
Contact & Disclaimers
If you have any whisky questions or comments concerning The Malt Messenger please contact me by e-mail, phone, or drop by the store.
All of the products mentioned in THE MALT MESSENGER can be purchased in store, over the phone or from our website at www.kensingtonwinemarket.com. All prices quoted in the Malt Messenger are subject to change and don’t include GST. In the case of discrepancies in pricing, the price in our in store point of sale will be taken as correct.
Thanks for reading the Malt Messenger.
Slainte!
Andrew Ferguson
Owner & Scotchguy
Kensington Wine Market
403-283-8000
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Kensington Wine Market403-283-8000<
Infinity bottles: blending whisky at home
Blending whisky is hard. It takes master blenders years to hone their skills, working up slowly through the ranks to take on the creation of new whiskies. However, that shouldn’t stop you having a go yourself at home. One of the easiest ways of examining this facet of the world of whisky creation is to make yourself a never-emptying infinity bottle – whenever it gets low, top it up with some more whisky.
I’ve currently got four different blends on the go: Speyside, Highlands and Islands, Islay and ‘Misc’. The final one is my longest running and I have a notebook listing everything I’ve added to it over the past five years – odds and ends, the occasional specially purchased bottle, and lots of great drams. Whenever I taste it, I have a think about what it needs next and add a little slug of that from my collection of open bottles. Slowly but surely, with an occasional backward step, all four of my blends move towards being my ideal drams.
However, as with everything, there are a few rules of thumb to follow:
There are many schools of thought to this. The two I like most are:
1) Start with a bottle of reasonably priced whisky you know you like – this will give you a good base and allow you to build on flavours you are already familiar with.
2) Start with a random mix of odds and ends – whisky doesn’t last forever in the bottle once it’s opened, and if you only have a dram left, then it’s probably going to become flat and lifeless before long. Why not combine all of your dregs into a starter blend? It might be confused, but finding the threads and dragging it into excellence can be fun.
I’ve done both, and while the first method creates more reliably decent whisky, the occasional flash of excellence from a random mix and the subsequent work to polish its edges is immensely satisfying.
Chucking any old whisky into your infinity bottle is probably not going to make the best blend. However, a few minutes’ thought about where you want it to go can help make sensible choices. Is it too dry? Add something sweet. Is it too heavy? Add some lighter whisky. Does it need some richness? Add some sherried whisky. Is it too smoky? Add something unpeated. Simple decisions that can push your blend closer to your ideal whisky.
Smoke is a powerful flavour and should be used in moderation. For a demonstration, grab a glass of your favourite unpeated dram and add a few drops of a heavily peated whisky. You’ll be surprised how few you need to add before it becomes very smoky.
Remember: you can always add a splash more whisky, but taking it out again gets very complicated…
Want to see what will happen if you add some bourbon to a blend of Scottish whiskies? Want to add something that isn’t whisky? Go ahead! You don’t need to use your whole batch, but have a play in a glass if you want to try something whacky – it might be excellent and be worth a test on the full infinity bottle.
While my regional blends have fairly obvious rules as to what I’ll add, for my Misc bottle, anything goes. It contains whisky from around the world, whatever I thought might make it taste good. I’ve not stretched across drink boundaries yet, but rumours of Compass Box’s Scovados (Scotch and Calvados) experiments make me think I should…
The whole point of having an infinity bottle is to explore the flavours of whisky, so make sure you taste it regularly. Not only will you see how the whisky slowly changes as the components marry – whisky is a complex mix of compounds and they take time to settle down – but how else are you meant to make space in the top for the next dram you want to add?
Good luck, and may your infinity bottle never be emptied.
If you want to step things up and start making bigger batches of blended whisky, check out former TWE blogger Tim Forbes’s excellent guide
A chance to own a piece of Macallan artwork
To celebrate our commitment to natural colour, we partnered with Scottish artist Nick Smith to create some of our favourite malts in his distinctive style; using colour swatches to explore the palette of his subject. Now we’re giving you an exclusive chance to win an original Nick Smith artwork featuring a true Macallan classic, The Macallan Sherry Oak 12 Years Old.
All you have to do to enter is follow the link below by 23:59 UK time on the 24th January 2018. We will notify the successful entrant by email within 48 hours of the closing time so be sure to keep an eye on your inbox.
By entering you agree to the full terms and conditions
“Opening a bottle of Macallan always arouses my senses. The weight of the bottle and the subtle colour of its contents. That joyful glugging sound as I pour a dram, revealing hidden aromas. Finally the moment when it hits my tongue and it all comes together – a heart-warming symphony is created.”
– Artist (and whisky fan) Nick Smith on The Macallan
JANUARY AUCTION NOW LIVE
(ends Sunday 28thJanuary)
…place your bids at www.whiskyhammer.co.uk
With an incredible selection of whiskies and other fine spirits there is certainly something for everyone – whether you are looking to collect, invest, enjoy!