When the folks from Kilchoman approached us about doing a new private barrel selection for K&L, we were interested. There were two caveats, however. First off, we wanted the price to be at or less than $100 per bottle. With single casks of Kilchoman hovering between $120-$150 globally, our cask had to be a value in comparison. Secondly, we wanted something we had never tasted before; a whisky that stood outside the standard selections from Kilchoman and truly offered a new and unique profile. We’ve done seven private Kilchoman casks over the years, but in order to justify doing another there had to be a very good reason. Buying new whisky for the sake of it at this point is passe and unnecessary given the expansion of the market.

While we were skeptical that Islay’s boutique farm distillery could deliver on those demands, they dug deep into their warehouse of odd balls and found us one of the most spectacular Kilchoman whiskies we’ve ever tasted. Aged full term in a red Bordeaux wine barrel, the resulting single malt drinks like a drier version of a Port-finished whisky, buffered by soft fruit on the entry but with a balance anchored in the spirit’s smoky, peaty, briny Islay character. From front to back, this 60.3% cask strength specimen is a dynamo. The nose reveals dessert-like flavors of butterscotch and sweet pudding with subtle smoke, but the first sip dials up the peat and classic Islay intensity. There’s a playful sweetness right off the bat, but it quickly melts into the peat fire. At no point does the whisky’s profile ever allude to its potent power; the richness from the wine influence plays like half-sherry/half-port, tempering the 120.6 proof and mellowing out the middle. The result is one of the most interesting and delicious Kilchoman whiskies we’ve yet tasted, which is exactly what we asked for.

This is honestly the first red wine barrel aged single malt that doesn’t taste like a gimmick or simply an excuse for marketing, which is exactly why I jumped all over it. Because the whisky spent its entire life in that Bordeaux cask, the red fruit is integrated entirely into the malty flavor. This isn’t a finish, where the cask influence acts like icing on a cake; this is a rich and classically-styled Kilchoman with just an entirely different profile than I’ve ever experienced. It’s traditional, yet exotic. It’s big, but surprisingly subdued. Every single time I’ve tasted it I’ve sensed something different that I didn’t notice previously. What I do notice each time around, however, is how much I like it and how delicious it is.

Kilchoman “K&L Exclusive” Single Red Wine Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky (750ml) ($99.99)

David Driscoll | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: May 02, 2017

Tasting this as a barrel sample, I had to call the distillery and tell them I needed the whisky at cask strength! They told me: “David, it’s at full proof: 60.3%.” I couldn’t believe it. I’ve tasted sherry barrels where the sweetness from the Oloroso wine masked the power of the alcohol, but never have I seen that happen with a red wine barrel. Simply put, this is one of the most delicious and dangerously drinkable Kilchoman’s I’ve had the pleasure to taste. Islay’s smallest distillery has long been releasing beautifully concentrated and polished single malt expressions, but few have had the richness and the balance exhibited by this single barrel release. The red fruits from the wine barrel never taste like a gimmick or some odd attempt at creating something new. Everything about this whisky is integrated, just in a way I can’t say I’ve ever experienced. Simply put, you should buy this whisky because it’s absolutely delicious. But if you’re an explorer and an experimenter of Scotch whisky, this is also one of the most unique offerings I’ve tasted in some time.

Jeffrey Jones | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: May 04, 2017

This is an experiment in using an alternative cask for aging rather than the usual used Bourbon or Sherry barrels and it really turns out to be an absolute success. In the nose it is what one would expect with smoke and sea notes. In the mouth it is complex with layers of smoke , sea and a round soft richness with hints of spice and fruit. This is both interesting and a delicious variation of an Islay Single Malt.

Andrew Stevens | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: May 04, 2017

Earlier this year we had an offering from Hepburn’s Choice that was a young Coal Ila finished in wine casks. I really enjoyed that whisky, but I always told people it was a bit of a geeks whisky, good but more fun than finesse. I suppose I had that in mind when I went to taste the new offering from Kilchoman just for us, I was so very wrong, and I am so very happy to have been wrong. Where the Caol Ila had some funky red fruit notes this has seamless integration of whisky and flavoring from the Bordeaux cask. Big rich smoke and spice immediately in the nose are followed up and incredibly complex mix of spiced citrus, BBQ coals, salty caramel and smoke. The finish, OMG the finish, super long and good and all of the words. So yeah I bought a bottle, because I was not about to not buy a bottle after that.

Andrew Whiteley | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: May 02, 2017

I’ve found myself going back to this bottle multiple times over the last two days. It’s extraordinarily balanced and integrated and seems to demand you take another taste. The briny, salty, smoky nose is alluring. It’s got caramel and butterscotch, but also citrus and spice. Remarkably, the red fruits I expected to find sitting on top of the whisky like so many red wine finished bottles are difficult to pick out. This is the beauty of the full term in the Bordeaux barrel. It’s folded into the whisky so well. Bottled near the 120 proof mark you might also expect this to be a hot bruiser, but even without water, it’s very drinkable. If you’re on the fence, ask yourself the following questions: Do you love Islay whisky? Do you love unique and well crafted whisky that shows artistry and grace? Do you love the flexibility cask strength whisky gives you, the drinker? And last, do you love an outrageously good deal? For under $100 bucks, this is a steal. If you answered yes to these questions. Don’t hesitate, we just have the one cask.