Ralfy explores the growing influence of Whisky auctions with Ralfy Review 619 – Whiskies I bought at Auctions.

Jim Murray – ‘I went to Talisker and it changed my life’

In the first part of our exclusive interview, Jim Murray tells Stuart how Lord Lucan helped him get into whisky, how he helped create the rye boom, and why sulphur is the enemy of a great dram…

Before you wrote about whisky, you were a Fleet Street reporter. How did you get involved in journalism? I was still at school. I covered league cricket at the age of 14, so earned my first pennies at that tender age. After school, I wouldn’t go home, I would go to the paper and during my holidays I’d work for them, too. I set up my own press agency when I was 20, covering the Midlands. I was getting stories on the front pages of national newspapers, so I was known around Fleet Street. I did hard investigations – I specialised in murders, turned over crooks, paedophiles, you name it. It was a long, hard, enjoyable and diverse career.

Why the move into whisky? Jim Milne of J&B was holding a seminar where he had these whiskies marked X, Y and Z, but they didn’t say the name of the distillery. I nosed one and said ‘This doesn’t go in your blend; it’s Fettercairn.’ He looked at me and said ‘Yes, that is Fettercairn, and the only reason it’s here is because it’s a mistake.’ We talked and we became mates because there was great respect between us. It was Jim who told me that I should write my views on whisky, because until then all I’d done was generic pieces on history and distilleries. I remember turning to my [now] ex-wife and said I was going to give up Fleet Street and do this full time, which horrified her. I was on a well-paid job and there was no guarantee of earning anything whatsoever.

Where does your love of whisky come from? I was working on the Lord Lucan story at the age of 16, which was fun. I finally got a holiday and I was determined to get to a distillery, and determined to get to an island. I went on the boat to Skye, got to Talisker distillery and it literally changed my life. I remember the aromas, the sounds, I remember going into the warehouse. It’s as if it happened yesterday, it’s so vivid.

You’re a huge bourbon fan, too… I got my taste for bourbon before I went to Talisker. When I left school at 16, I spent a month in America with relatives before joining the press agency. I tasted about 40 whiskeys – I looked a lot older than 16! [Later] I went to live in Kentucky for about four months and kept going back. I learned and learned. The one thing I said to them was they have to start producing more rye, but they said rye is dead. I said no chance, because people can’t get enough Islay whisky, and rye is their Islay – it’s the big, ballsy one that makes a statement. And rye has now gone through the roof.

I’m proud of the fact I got the American industry to re-examine rye. And I got the Irish whiskey industry to get pot still going, because that was dead. It’s the old campaigning journalist in me – if you believe in something, you go out and fight your campaign. And people are drinking Japanese now. I was on a flight and the guy next to me said ‘Are you Jim Murray? My God, you’ve cost me some money. The Yamazaki [Sherry Cask 2013, which won Jim’s 2015 World Whisky of the Year] – I managed to get three bottles and each one cost me £2,000 each, but it really was the best whisky I’d ever tasted in my life.’ It’s lovely when you hear things like that, because you feel vindicated.

Talking of sherry-cask whisky, you’re notoriously outspoken about sulphur… Everyone should have an issue with sulphur! You get ridiculous PR people who are paid to do what they’re told coming out with ridiculous statements saying that this [sulphur] just adds to the flavour of whisky. It doesn’t add; it detracts, it ruins whisky. That is why you’ve got copper pot stills, to make it nice and clean, beautiful and bright, and honeyed and sweet, and then you put it into sulphur and you f*** it up! Sorry, but there are so many thick people in the industry, it’s terrifying, and they’re all covering their tracks.

I remember there was a guy in America who had his own column about whisky, and I mentioned the sulphur thing, and he goes ‘What problem?’ I said ‘Are you serious? You’re a whisky writer. That’s like being a football correspondent and not knowing what offside is.’

What’s the most underrated distillery? God, there are so many. From Scotland, I would say two: Clynelish should be brought out as a really special whisky. It [Diageo] doesn’t do with it what they could do with it. But I understand why, because Clynelish is such an important blending whisky because it’s got so much character. The other one would be Glentauchers, which I discovered back in the early 1980s.

And the most overrated? Fettercairn.

What’s the next big country for whisky? The two countries that could do really well are Australia and India. Australia is fantastic – what they’re bringing out, there may not be much of it but my God, I do look forward to doing the Australian section [of Jim’s Whisky Bible]. I think Australia has so much potential. And Taiwan is making some brilliant whisky.

What do you drink when you’re not drinking whisky? Real ale – I love it. And I’m pretty useful on rum, but I don’t think it’s understood at all. Rum is the only spirit you should put caramel in, for instance. I don’t think you should put caramel in whisky. The industry says caramel does not affect the flavour; yes, it does, massively. I’m pretty good on gin, but I don’t have time – writing the Bible alone takes four to five months a year, and the rest of the time I’m going round the world doing TV and shows.

Would you recommend people buying certain whiskies to invest? The whole point of the Bible is to actually enjoy the whisky. For me, it’s about tasting it, not stashing it away and making loads of money. I would never say to people to go and buy a whisky for investment. I went to Clynelish [a number of years ago], and the manager took me to the original distillery, renamed Brora. He showed me a warehouse and said to me: ‘This is our Brora. I’ve got two warehouses of this. The blenders don’t want to use it because there’s only x amount of it, and once it’s run out, it’s run out. They want to use whiskies that they can continue using; we don’t know what to do with it.’ And he added ‘If you know anyone who wants to buy all this stock…’ I swear, two warehouses of Brora!

What about NAS whiskies? I can understand why it’s happening. I don’t have a problem with NAS personally – the original Glenfiddich had no age statement, for example. It was like eating a slightly underripe gooseberry – it had this tartness to it, but also this really gorgeous natural feel, and it was refreshing. But when they brought it up to 12 [years old], you could feel that maybe they’d upped the caramel a bit, and that tartness and the liveliness vanished and down it went. I think age can be a red herring.

Read the second half of our Jim Murray interview next Sunday (January 29th), in which he reveals his strict rules for choosing his World Whisky of the Year, his response to critics of the Whisky Bible, and his retirement plans.

THE WHISKY EXCHANGE MASTERCLASSES AT OLYMPIA HISTORIC!

Olympia Historic Automobile Fair & Auction

17-19 February 2017, Olympia, London

olympiahistoric.com 

The Olympia Historic Fair & Auction, in partnership with renowned auction house Coys, is London’s new luxury lifestyle event for owners and collectors of classic cars. Taking place on 17-19 February, the show will deliver an unforgettable experience for visitors with a series of features that range from a Coys Auction and Restoration Showcases to the Whisky Exchange Masterclasses and Fine Watch Room.

Run in partnership with The Whisky Exchange – the Whisky Masterclasses are a collection of fine whisky tasting sessions led by industry experts featuring top labels from around the world, from Johnnie Walker Blue Label to Japanese Nikka whisky.

New for 2017 – The Whisky Exchange Masterclasses in partnership with The Whisky Exchange

Johnnie Walker and the Chocolate Factory

Join experts in an exclusive tasting session of one of the world’s most popular blended whisky labels. Guests will be able to enjoy three of the finest Johnnie Walker whiskies, from the exquisite Blue Label to the indulgent Gold Label and Gold Label Reserve. The whiskies will be partnered by award winning luxury chocolates from London chocolatiers, Chococo.

Nikka Whisky with Stephanie Holt

Explore the multi-award winning Nikka range with a tasting of 5 whiskies from the company. Whisky expert Stephanie Holt will guide you through the nuances of a variety of single malt and blended whiskies known worldwide for their quality and flavour.

Kavalan Whisky with Stephanie Holt

Kavalan have made a big impact in the whisky world since they started distilling in 2006. This masterclass will be led by spirits expert Stephanie Holt who will conducting a tasting session of the award winning single malt whisky, known for its smooth and complex flavour.

Luxury Blending Session with Phil Huckle

Phil Huckle, brand ambassador for Pernod Ricards Scotch, will be showing you why it is a modern day myth that Blended Scotch is inferior to Single Malt. Guests will be able to taste premium luxury blends to discover the truth for themselves. On the menu will be Chivas Regal Extra / 18yr & 25yr plus Ballantines 17yr and Royal Salute 21yr.

Alwynne Gwilt – William Grant & Sons UK

Alwynne Gwilt is the UK Balvenie Brand Ambassador at William Grant & Sons UK. She got her start in whisky first through of a love of the liquid, and later through setting up the whisky blog, Miss Whisky. Alwynne will be guiding visitors through a selection of  Balvenie whiskies from the Single Barrel range, including the 12yo, 15yo and 25yo, plus a couple of extra treats along the way. 

Photo credits: The Whisky Exchange

All Whisky Masterclass tickets cost £45 in advance and include entry to the Olympia Historic Fair & Auction.

Please note, masterclasses are limited to 30 people per session so we recommend you book in advance to secure your place.

The Whisky Exchange Masterclasses are £55 on the door.

The Olympia Historic Automobile Fair & Auction, in partnership with renowned auction house Coys, is proud to announce its inaugural event taking place in London’s most prestigious event venue Olympia London on 17-19 February 2017.

Packed with inspiring features such as the Classic Car Rally Talk Theatre, The Restoration Showcase and Fine Watch Room, the event will provide a wealth of information and guidance on the world of historic automobiles. From concours restoration to provenance, whether you’re thinking of buying with the aim to enter the exciting world of classic racing or interested to know how to maximise your investment, this event will allow owners and collectors to both indulge in their passions and acquire their next historic automobile.

For more show details and to buy tickets please visit: olympiahistoric.com

Nicholson’s Pubs Celebrate Scotland with Burns Night and their Whisky Showcase

From Monday 23rd January, food and drink lovers across London are in for a treat as Nicholson’s pubs including The Elephant and Castle, The Princess of Wales, The Hoop and Grapes and The Henry Addington kick off 2017 with Burns Night celebrations and a whisky showcase. The traditional Burns Night menu will offer guests the chance to experience classic Scottish dishes in new and exciting ways, with the whisky showcase set to enable guests to explore whisky and find new favourites for 2017.

Burns Night

This January Nicholson’s Pubs will be celebrating the life of the Scottish poet Robert Burns in a truly traditional fashion with a two and three course set menu showcasing classic Scottish cuisine. Guests will be able to sample the Scottish dishes from Monday 23rd January until Sunday 29th January meaning Burns Night celebrations can continue all week.

Dishes will include traditional favourites such as Smoked Salmon served with Scottish oatcakes and chive sour cream, haggis, neeps & tatties, and to round off the meal, guests with a sweet tooth can enjoy a traditional Scottish cranachan served with honey, whisky raspberries and golden toasted oats.

Adding an extra warming winter twist on their experience, there’s also a whisky flight available for guests to add to their Burns Night celebration for just £5. This includes three 25ml measures of The Balvenie Doublewood 12 Year Old, Talisker Skye and Singleton Dufftown Spey Cascade, the perfect accompaniment to the traditional Scottish fayre.

The Whisky Showcase

The Burns Night festivities will form the start of a month-long celebration of all things whisky in Nicholson’s pubs with the inaugural Whisky Showcase commencing from 23rd January.

Over 30 whiskies will be available in London Nicholson’s Pubs until 19th February as part of the showcase and each pub will be bringing whisky to life in fun & interesting ways, and make it accessible to both the whisky newcomers and malt connoisseurs alike.

As well as an extended range of exciting whiskies, the showcase will be brought to life through events and masterclasses taking place across the Nicholson’s pubs throughout the month. These will include tasting events for beginners in conjunction with Fever-Tree, whisky pairing masterclasses with Macallan chocolate and virtual reality events where guests can take a tour of the Glenfiddich distillery from the comfort of their local pub.

Whether guests like their whisky straight up, on the rocks, or topped with cola, Nicholson’s wants to show guests how accessible and unique each whisky is, and help them discover their perfect serve.

Events

The Old Thameside Inn will be hosting the Glenfiddich Virtual Reality Distillery tour

The Flying Horse will be hosting the Fever Tree ‘beginners guide to whisky’ session, where guests will begin with perfect serves of whisky & coke, and whisky & ginger, before discovering its unique taste on its own.

The White Swan will be hosting the Arbelour tasting sessions where guests will discover the secrets behind double cask maturation.

The Argyll Arms will be hosting the Maxxium Whisky Masterclass, where guests will explore pairings with chocolate and ale.

The Sir Christopher Hatton will be hosting the Diageo Whisky Masterclass which will delve into the world of whisky, including the myths surrounding it, flavour mapping and exploring the Nicholson’s whisky collection.

Guests can also get involved online, as the Nicholson’s social media feeds will be full to the rim of interesting whisky facts, Burns Night quotes, offers competitions and much more. Follow @Nicholsonspubs and #NicholsonsWhiskyShowcase to stay updated with all things whisky!

To find out more about which Whisky Showcase events are happening in London or to review the Burns Night menu, visit the website at https://www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk/burnsnightmenu and find your nearest Nicholson’s.

Twitter: @Nicholsonspubs

www.facebook.com/nicholsonspubs

Instagram: nicholsonspubs

Notes

About Nicholson’s

Founded in 1873 by William Nicholson; Nicholson’s Pubs extend across the UK with pubs in most major city centres locations. Nicholson’s prides itself on the colourful history and the striking architecture of each individually designed pub in the collection.

With a timeless atmosphere and character by the barrelful, it’s the perfect place to try an ale from the widest selection available, enjoy a gin from some of the most unique gin producers in the country and tuck into some hearty food. From an after work drink with colleagues, to having a drink with friends whilst visiting an historic city or enjoying a quality pub lunch or evening meal with family, every occasion can be a Nicholson’s one.

Find out more about your local Nicholson’s by visiting http://www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk/, following on twitter @Nicholsonspubs, or visiting the Facebook page www.facebook.com/nicholsonspubs

BUY NOW

Glen Grant 25 Year Old Xtra Old Particular 1990 Single Cask, Cask Strength 56.1%

25 year old Glen Grant single malt, bottled by Douglas Laing as part of their Xtra Old Particular range, which is reserved for some very special whiskies indeed. This one was distilled all the way back in November 1990 and left to age in a refill hogshead for quarter of a century. It was bottled in June 2016 with an outturn of 205 bottles.

Exclusive web price £199.95!

Dumbarton 29 Year Old 1987 vintage Lowland single grain Scotch whiske. Single barrel #13049 bottled November 2016 by Hunter Laing & Co. for the Sovereign series. 235 bottles. This dark gold whisky has a well-rounded nose of sweet vanilla custard, chocolate shortbread and a slight lemon zest at the end. Rich and creamy on the palate with vanilla pods, butterscotch sauce and soft fruits. The finish is long and sweet with a gentle citrus aftertaste. Dumbarton Distillery is a lost Lowland grain distillery opened by Hiram Walker in 1938 on the site of the former McMillan shipyard. The distillery sat on the banks of the River Leven and River Clyde in Dumbarton and was equipped with one continuous still manufactured in Cincinnati. It was one of the largest grain distilleries in Scotland however it closed in 2002 with most of its buildings demolished by 2008. Spirit was produced primarily from maize with water originating from Loch Lomond with spirit destined for Ballantyne’s blends. Single cask bottlings have been released by Hunter Laing & Co.

Dumbarton 29 Year Old 1987 Sovereign #13049

$97.50 

ABV: 54.7% ~ Age: 29 Year Old ~ Vintage: 1987 ~ Cask Type: single barrel ~ Cask #:#13049 ~ Bottler: Hunter Laing & Co. ~ Region: Lowland ~ Type: Single Grain Scotch

AN ISLAY WHISKY LIKE NO OTHER

The Classic Cask Port Charlotte unveils complex and distinctive flavours from the refill bourbon barrel.

The orange citrus aromas along with the smoky and floral finish have made this wonderfully composed dram into a definite crowd pleaser.

COLOR: Mid gold

NOSE: Peat smoke, toffee and hints of ripe apricot

PALATE: Briny leading to smoke, orange citrus and peach

FINISH: Long and smoky with floral at the end.

$119.99

Ezra Brooks® Launches New Straight Rye

Brand Adds Rye Whiskey to Family Lineup 

(St. Louis) January 12, 2017 – The iconic brand Ezra Brooks® Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey has a new addition to its product lineup: Ezra Brooks® Straight Rye. The brand, which dates back to 1957 and has been a part of Luxco’s portfolio of whiskeys since 1993, will continue to provide variants for consumers that celebrate the modern gentleman in all of us.

Ezra Brooks Straight Rye, a genuine straight rye whiskey, is made from the finest ingredients available and bottled at an honest 90 proof. This rye whiskey offers slightly sweet and oaky tones with a warm, spicy finish – making it perfect for crafting classic cocktails or enjoying on the rocks. It is available nationally starting this month in 750ml and 50ml bottles.

“In the past 12 months, we have seen rapid growth in the rye category, up 27 percent*, which indicates consumers are interested in more rye whiskey products,” says Fletcher Buchman, brand manager at Luxco. “Ezra Brooks’ recent packaging refresh has elevated the brand to the same high-quality of the bourbon found inside the bottle.”

Ezra Brooks’ updated look includes a new corked bottle with a premium matte-finish closure capsule. In addition, a higher end label offers the bottle a craftier look and feel. The brand has recently earned top honors at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, taking Gold for Old Ezra Seven Year and Silver for both Ezra Brooks Black Label and Ezra B 12 Year Single Barrel in 2015.

The brand family – all offered in 750ml bottles and ranging in suggested retail prices of $11.99 to $26.99 – includes:

n  Ezra Brooks Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, bottled at 90 proof and offering a mellow flavor with hints of spice and chocolate and a smooth finish.

n  Old Ezra Seven Year Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, bottled at 101 proof and aged a full seven years for a buttery long finish and deep, rich taste.

n  Ezra Brooks Bourbon Cream, bottled at 25 proof and offering a rich caramel and toffee flavor with a smooth, creamy finish.

n  Ezra Brooks Blended Whiskey, bottled at 80 proof and offering a genuine Kentucky sour mash recipe with a light, warm finish.

Lux Row Distillers – a new distillery experience currently being built in Bardstown, Kentucky – will be the future home of Ezra Brooks, along with other Luxco bourbon brands. To follow the progress of the construction and for more information, please visit www.luxrowdistillers.com/, as well as Facebook and Instagram pages.

For more information about Ezra Brooks, please visit www.ezrabrooks.com/

*Source: NABCA 9L R12 through September 2016.

For more information, please contact:

Pia Reinhold at preinhold@commongroundpr.com

Kelsey Arends at karends@commongroundpr.com

About Luxco

Luxco, Inc. is a leading producer, importer and marketer of beverage alcohol products. Our mission is to meet the needs and exceed the expectations of our consumers, associates and business partners. Founded in St. Louis in 1958, where it is headquartered, it is owned and operated by the Lux family. Its portfolio of brands include: Juarez Tequila & Triple Sec, Pearl Vodka, Everclear Grain Alcohol, Arrow Cordials, El Mayor Tequila, Ezra Brooks & Rebel Yell Bourbons, Lord Calvert Canadian Whisky, St. Brendan’s Irish Cream, Salvador’s Cocktails, Yago Sant’ gria and other well-recognized brands. For more information about the company, visit www.luxco.com/.

Good as Gold

The Pitilie Burn in the town of Aberfeldy is one of the few places in Scotland where would-be prospectors still come to pan for gold, but you needn’t get your pick-axe out to find the precious stuff – simply open a bottle of one of our exclusive Aberfeldy single cask expressions! With only a few bottles remaining in stock, now is the time to strike gold!

Free delivery on UK orders over £100 Next day delivery available on UK orders

Aberfeldy 1991Single Cask

This limited edition single cask expression from Aberfeldy distillery in Perthshire was distilled in 1991 before spending 24 years in cask no. 6394. Bottled on 1st October 2015 at a strength of 53.5% abv, only 195 bottles are available, each one exclusive to The Whisky Shop. A delicate sweetness in the mouth with smooth creamy toffee notes, desiccated coconut mingling with a twist of lime and a wisp of smoke to finish.

£320 Buy Now

Aberfeldy 1996 Single Cask

The whisky for this Aberfeldy bottling was distilled in 1996 and was specially selected by members of The W Club and The Whisky Shop Edinburgh staff in March 2013. Exclusive to The Whisky Shop, this is a fabulous single cask expression. Brimming with vanilla notes stewed fruits, this fabulous expression also packs some typical warming oak flavours from the fairly long maturation.

£160 Buy Now

OLD & RARE: 20% SAVING

We’re pleased to announce that we’ll be attending the new Old & Rare Whisky Festival next month, see below for more details. In celebration, we’re offering a massive 20% saving on whiskies 20 years old and over.  It’s a fantastic opportunity to buy some of our oldest and rarest casks at a great price.  But hurry, offer ends midnight on Wednesday 25 January and our casks are limited in availability.

How to redeem: Simply use promo code OLD&RARE at our online checkout, the discount will be applied to all whiskies 20 years and over.  Sorry discounted parcels and other offers do not apply, and discount cannot be applied retrospectively.  Offer available online and at our Members’ Rooms, ask at the bar for more details.

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society, The Vaults, 87 Giles Street, Leith EH6 6BZ

Contact: sales@smws.com or call 0131 555 2929 (Mon-Fri 9am-4.45pm). Visit the Society at here for membership information

This is your chance to join and to take advantage of their great offers!

Spot the SMWS bottles in this amusing You Tube video