No Age Statement (NAS) Single Malt Non Chill Filtered Scotch Whiskies;

Proof that a divine Entity loves you and wants you to be happy.

Years ago at the infancy of my journey into the world of Scotch whisky I read of a supposed basic rule; that No Age Statement (NAS) single malts were generally too young and immature for quality enjoyment. Essentially this conventional ‘wisdom’ pointed directly at any whisky under a stated age of 10 years, for a time I accepted this notion. Happily over the ensuing years I have learned differently, however I suspect that there are many, at any stage of their journey, who still believe that NAS whiskies are not a quality dram. Discussed in this epistle are four NAS single malts that completely disprove this outdated and incorrect notion; as an added bonus these single malts are usually well priced for everyday enjoyment. They are vibrant, full of flavour and are sure to please your palate and will be welcome additions to your collection and bar.

1) Aberlour a’bunadh Batch # 14 59.5 % A.B.V. Score 92 Points

This stunning whisky from Aberlour was made to recreate the style of whisky produced at the distillery in the 19th century well before the introduction of ex-bourbon American casks into the Scotch whisky industry. Batches of a’bunadh are made up of specially selected butts that have previously held Spanish Oloroso sherry wine and the batches are made up of 80 to 100 butts each.

A’bunadh is bottled at cask strength, the strength of which varies from batch to batch, and without the addition of spirit caramel or chill filtration. The distillery actually prefers that there to be some slight color variation from batch to batch; this is more authentic to the original style of whisky. Since the whisky is bottled at cask strength without the addition of water the whisky possesses a greater aromatic complexity.

A’bunadh batch # 14 has earthy notes on the nose mixed with huge sweet sherry & spice. The taste is a well balance combination of malt & grape that always delights me. The finish is filled with sweet notes, brown sugar and is medium long. There is a lot in this whisky that is quite perfect and for those who love a malt filled with overwhelming sherry, this is it.

2) Benromach Organic 43% A.B.V. Score 87 Points 

This is the newest whisky from Gordon & MacPhail, the owners of Benromach distillery, and they proudly (& quite rightly so) announce it is the only single malt on the market that can claim to be organic in compliance and fully certified by the UK’s Soil Association.

Gordon & MacPhail have gone to great lengths to ensure that the whole process from the raw ingredients through distillation, maturation and bottling is certified organic to the high standards set by the Soil Association. To ensure the highest quality distillate spring water from the Romach Hills, Scottish organic barley and organic yeast are used as well as using virgin American casks for maturation. Additionally Organic is bottled without chill filtration, at natural colour (without the addition of spirit caramel) and at 43% A.B.V.

Golden brown in colour, Benromach Organic is a fresh vibrant whisky with a strong oak influence. The nose reveals sweet, charred oak aromas with fresh fruit notes (bananas and pineapples). An earthy, toasted aroma also present. The palate exposes sweet, vanilla and toffee flavours. Hints of green apples and orange peel with a rich resinous note.[1]

I recently tasted this exceptional malt at the Highlander Inn in Craigellachie and was both delighted and surprised at the nose, taste and finish of this very fine dram. The famed bar manager of the Highlander, Tatsuya Minagawa, advised our group to drive to Gordon & MacPhail’s shop in Elgin and buy two bottles each, such was is his respect for this dram. As interesting back up to this whisky is its stable mate Benromach Traditional 40% (NAS), the first whisky to be released after the reopening of the distillery in 1998 and released in 2004.

3) Laphroaig Quarter Cask 48% A.B.V. Score 91 Points 

This is the single malt that has taken the Islay whisky world by storm and for many of us our first in depth look at Laphroaig Quarter Cask was in Dave Broom’s article in Whisky Magazine[2]. In the article Robert Hicks, then Allied Domecq’s master blender reveals to Dave how Laphroaig commissioned the Speyside Cooperage to make 50 quarter casks from first fill oak, each with a capacity of 105 liters. A vatting of different ages from standard size casks was then matured for a further period in the quarter casks. The increased whisky to wood ratio and increased contact of charcoal with the whisky resulted in a faster maturation and increased vanilla notes. The overall effect has produced a stunning whisky with lots of smoky and sweet flavours that is vibrant but not over whelming in any one area, magic!

The nose is full of peat, peat and some more peat thrown in for good measure yet is still vibrant and fresh. My first nosing of this whisky reminded me of my first taste of Laphroaig 10 many, many years ago. The taste is very peaty and yet malty sweet (vanilla) at the same time, truly an exceptional experience for those who adore peat. The ending is long and full of more sweet peat with some wood notes.

Happily in my part of the world Laphroaig Quarter Cask is only available in one liter bottles!  

[1] Credit http://www.benromach.com/

[2] Issue 42

This article was originally published as a Malt Maniacs E-pistle on the mighty Whisky Fun in September 2006 and was written by Lawrence Graham.

Whisky Intelligence recently held a NAS whisky tasting, details can be viewed in Twitter #weloveNASwhisky