Bringing in the Barley

Cask No. 22.29
Lowlands, Eastern Lowlands

Our first thoughts were of combine harvesters in golden fields of barley; sweet bails of hay, husk, meadow blossom and hessian sacks of grain. Then buttery short crust pastry, roasted chestnuts, sweet mincemeat pies and Manzanilla sherry, with raisins in a Waldorf salad. The neat palate was almost hoppy, reminiscent of a real ale IPA. The reduced nose was floral and gristy, like barley through the mill; a muesli mixture of husk and flour with nuts, raisins, papaya and dried apricots. The reduced palate was creamy with soy milk and bran flakes, muesli and beer. This Lowland whisky is brewed and distilled in the Lothians, also known as The Edinburgh Malt.

Drinking tip: Instead of a beer

Colour: Sunset on the ocean
Cask: Refill sherry butt
Age: 24 years
Date distilled: April 1987
Alcohol: 54.9%

$150

Jam making and harvested fields

Cask No. 9.60
Highlands, Speyside (Rothes)

The nose was buttery (buttered toast, croissants, bread and butter pudding) with raisins, baked apples, custard, new-made jam and mixed spice. The unreduced palate was big and full-bodied with lasting heat – the flavours included intense fruit and vanilla, poached pears with soft cinnamon spice and syrup and slightly burnt pastries with currants. Water accentuated the jam tarts (with icing sugar) on the nose and introduced an earthy note. The reduced palate, still rich and substantial, evoked a jam maker’s kitchen, fresh sourdough bread and the comforting glow of autumn sunshine on harvested fields. From the first distillery established in Rothes.

Drinking tip: A kitchen dram – or to evoke childhood autumn days

Colour: Burnished brass with beads
Cask: Refill hogshead
Age: 13 years
Date distilled: April 1997
Alcohol: 57.6%

$110

Clean smoking jackets

Cask No. 37.48
Highlands, Speyside

There was a cleanliness that suggested a doctor’s surgery or swimming pools; one Panellist found smoking jackets with the pockets stuffed full of boiled sweets, overripe squishy pears, tobacco and chocolate cake with raspberry jam. Grapefruit, empty cigar boxes and tuck shops were also mentioned. Zingy, hot, mouth-coating and thick on the palate, with tannic tobacco, bitter cocoa powder and custard apples. Water released sweetness – golden syrup (on Scottish plain bread) and tinned peaches in mango juice as well as freshness – Zoflora, lemon balm and scented candles. To taste it was soapy, soft, chewy, clean, fruity and warming. From Ballindalloch in Banffshire.

Drinking tip: In springtime while hanging out the laundry

Colour: Well-done biscuit
Cask: Second-fill hogshead
Age: 12 years
Date distilled: February 1999
Alcohol: 55.4%

$105

Medieval banquet
Cask No. 99.12
Highlands, Eastern Highlands

Weirdly complex – yeast, red grapes, linseed oil, ham & pickle crisps, winey-garlicky cheese fondue, white jasmine, strawberry shortcake fruit corner and Schweppes lemonade – everything at once like a medieval banquet. A savoury palate; brown sauce covered cold Scotch pie and more of those crisps but also lovely peachy-mango coulis, Canada Dry ginger ale and a dry peppery heat. Dry in reduction like an Oloroso sherry, wet clay, window putty, pork chops & apple sauce, Irn Bru, Wham or Refreshers bars – we couldn’t decide. To taste we thought the complexity was lost; it became dusty, with mutton, leather and starfruit. This Peterhead distillery closed in 1983.

Drinking tip: Much better neat, why not try this with a cheeseboard

Colour: Coppery amber
Cask: Refill sherry butt
Age: 30 years
Date distilled: May 1980
Alcohol: 46.7%

$185

Desperate Dan whisky

Cask No. 127.9
Islay, Loch Indaal

The initial nose suggested peat smoke, tar and TCP, langoustines on beach barbeques, burnt limes, liquorice, aniseed, biltong and hay. The big, intense, smoky palate had syrupy sweetness, violets, chilli, charcoal and ash – ‘A Desperate Dan whisky!’ someone exclaimed, but no-one particularly wanted to spit it out. The reduced nose seemed colour-coded – black pudding, black pepper, blackberries and Black Jack chews were all mentioned – as were tropical fruits, burnt wood, heather and the Bowmore swimming pool sauna. The reduced palate had sweet popcorn, mint, chalk and tar – drinkable neat, but also great with water. The peated version of distillery 23.

Drinking tip: Ladies – this will definitely attract real men – pour a glass or dab it behind your ears – whichever

Colour: Chardonnay
Cask: Refill barrel
Age: 9 years
Date distilled: December 2001
Alcohol: 65.1%

$90

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