Ardbeg NAS Alligator (51.2%, OB, 2011)

The latest furor from Ardbeg using “Ferocious ‘Alligator’ charring of new American oak casks has created a spicy, dark dram of hidden depths, within which lurk deep tarry coffee, barbeque, sizzle and sooty aromas”.  Non chill-filtered and all (but no mention of added colour?). On the nose there is some fragrant notes (think heather and juniper) along with the promised peat reek. As it spends more time in the glass the peat reek begins to grow over powering the previous descriptors. However there is some very nice sweetness and chocolate in the mix also which adds to the complexity of the aromas. There’s some nice depth here. Hints of roasted nut (peanuts, perhaps) and some citrus in the form of lemon. With water it’s the bottom of the volcano and very tarry. The taste without water is quite good; some good citrus, some sweetness and then a headlong rush in some truly excellent peat reek and malt with the chocolate hanging n for dear life. Water brings out some very good sweetness but the peat reek hangs on really well. The finish is long, warming, very BIG, lashings of good peat reek and some sensational chewy malt.

Well done Ardbeg, yet another vibrant intriguing dram. With or without water it’s very good.

US$135/£59

Score 88 points