Whisky Intelligence has reproduced (with permission) The Gauntleys Whisky Newsletter for June 2006; a look back in time. The author, Chris Goodrum, has some excellent insights into the whiskies being commented on which makes for excellent reading on a Sunday. Enjoy!
Dear Whisky
Welcome to the latest newsletter. Firstly, as always I’m on my soap-box and today’s question is ‘Has the SWA (Scotch Whisky Association) gone Mad?’
I ask this question in all honesty in light of two recent events. The first was there condemnation of the ‘Quadruple distilled Bruichladdich’, which I’m sure that you have all heard about, but for those who have not Bruichladdie decided to recreate the ancient sprit called ‘Usquebaugh-bual’ (the Gaelic for ‘perilous whisky’) which was described by the 17th century travel writer Martin Martin in his 1695 travel book. In what is probably the worlds oldest whisky tasting note, he says that ‘The first taste affects all the members of the body’, adding that ‘Two spoonfuls of this last liquor is a sufficient dose; if any man should exceed this, it would presently stop his breath, and endanger his life’
Obviously I can say that after tasting it I’m still very much alive, and here lies the reason that the SWA have got in a flap. It supposedly ran off the stills at 92% abv, which is below the legally permitted maximum strength of 94%. However the SWA have condemned the fact that ‘Undue emphasis on high alcohol content is irresponsible and should be not used as the basis of any products appeal to the consumer’.
This statement seems reasonable, but the point is that Bruichladdich haven’t been the ones who have made a big deal about its abv, the press have. Mark Reynier, released this statement. ‘Obviously we advocate the sensible consumption of alcohol. Yet some people, notably the Scotch Whisky Association, without knowing our intentions, tell us we are ‘irresponsible’ to distill such a whisky. We respectfully suggest that they mind there own business.’ We have filled 54 American oak casks for maturation. It will lose strength to the angles as it matures. When it is deemed to be ready to drink by Master Distiller Jim McEwan, it will be Islay bottled at a strength deemed appropriate at the time. He went on to say that ‘If they bothered to read the articles released before the distillation took place, they would have known that it was [the abv] a theoretical figure’. Indeed the sample that I have tasted was 89%.
The point that the press and the SWA have missed is that it will loose its strength quite quickly, probably more so that a spirit that has been distilled at 65-70% abv, which looses 1-2% abv per year. Also both vodka and gin is distilled to around 96%, but nobody complains about that, because its abv is reduced prior to bottling, which is what I assume will happen to this, as Bruichladdich’s preferred bottling strength is as you know 46%. The final point to make on this subject is that the SWA is not a regulatory body, in fact it is a trade organisation owned by the big boys, such as Diageo, Pernod, Grants, etc and many of the smaller, independent distillers are not members.
So all the fuss aside, what does it taste like? On the nose there is a lot of alcohol (obviously) but once you have adjusted to it there are the unmistakable aromas of new make Bruichladdich, full of crisp apples and cereal aromas. It is delicate and elegant, less oily and heavy than there usual new make spirit and had to me notes of rose petal and straw, which reminded me of French Marc. On the palate it reinforced the Marc like quality with those straw and rose petal notes. It is light and elegant and quite floral for a laddie. When a drop of water was added it brought out glorious aromas of sweet digestives and cereal and gave the fruit a lovely sweetness. On the palate it really emphasised the rose petals, oil and brought some delicate sweet spices to the forefront, which built and lasted ? Wow what a spicy finish.
So when will it be released. Mark Reynier believes that it will still be maturing well into its seventieth year, and who knows, he may well be right. However because of the lightness of the spirit I’m sure that it will be swamped by the oak flavours by that time. I personally would like to see it bottles quite young, say between 8 and 12 years of age. I think by then it will have picked up just enough creamy vanillins to compliment the delicate fruit, and we all know that Jim’s greatest whiskies are the ones in which all the flavours including those from the oak are in perfect harmony.
The second piece of SWA madness is to do with John Glaser at Compass Box They have asked him to cease production of their ‘Spice Tree’ and they have agreed to this, although I believe that they are still in negotiation with them. Apparently the issue revolves around the SWA’s interpretation of the law regarding traditional practice in the production of spirits in European Union countries. They apparently they have a problem with its secondary maturation process. Instead of having completely new casks made from high quality wine-grade French Sessile oak, he had inner staves made, which were inserted into whisky casks. Now I am completely baffled as why this process is considered illegal, yet cutting down Scottish oak for new barrels or using ex wine casks is perfectly fine. At the end of the day the spirit comes into contact with the oak, whether it is staves or a complete barrel should not make any difference at all, personally they should be more concerned with the quality of the product not its maturation.
All I can say is that if these so called guardians of the Scotch Whisky Industry want to stamp on any producer or blender that dares to innovate then it is a sad day for all of us that love whisky. One final thought on ‘traditional practices’ is that not so long ago distillers would put their spirit into any old casks that they could get their hands on with the inevitable results. Sometimes tradition isn’t all that it is cracked up to be.
A GENERAL ROUND UP OF TASTINGS
Bowmore 1991 (14 year old) 57.8% Dewar Rattray Bottling £43.95
A very heavy, sticky nose of treacle toffee and fudge followed by peat, iodine and that Laphroaig-esque medicinal note. Finally some distant smoke wafts in along with some sea air and decomposing bog myrtle. Ah that smelly old Islay ? I love it! On the palate it is rich and smoky with a luxurious toffee treacle, smoke and more smoke for good measure. A classic old Bowmore. There is a touch of peat, then more coal smoke/ charcoal. Ok so this might not be the most complex Bowmore I’ve ever tasted, but it dose exactly what it says on the tin ‘pass me that coal scuttle please! For the full impact I’d have it without water.
Teaninich 1975 (30 year old) 60.8% Dewar Rattray Bottling £88.95
Rich, deep and gloriously succulent of the nose with vanilla infused apricot and yellow fruits, some oil, butter toffee and lashings of juicy fruit and a pure vanilla pod freshness. Stunning complexity. On the palate it is rich and fruit, quite oily with loads of spicy apricot. There is quite a lot of alcohol for its age but it is beautifully balanced, fruity and creamy with a late vanilla rush. A drop of water opens up the nose, emphasizing the clean vanilla fruit and spicy, possibly making it even more buttery. It softens the palate emphasizing the creamy vanilla and oils, it might mellow it but it still has a spicy kick at the finish. I can’t believe that this is 30!
Springbank 1992 (12 year old) 46% Murray McDavid Bottling £38.95
Finished in ex-Mourvedre and Syrah casks
If I was to sum this whisky up in one word?. It would be feminine. It has a very floral nose, almost like a rose wine, yet underneath there is some herbal malt, a touch of earthiness and some salinity. On the palate it tastes younger than 12 years old. It opens with lots of spicy red fruit, soft succulent malt, a touch of earthy cereal (showing its youth?), followed by coffee, herbs and salinity. Finishing with the spicy fruit returning. The palate is quite sweet but nicely balanced. This one is definitely for the ladies!
Bruichladdich Infinity Distillery Bottling 55.5% £40.95
Refill Sherry
A youthful nose of rich, oily, lusciously spiced, honey, dates and dried fruit, with a deep marmalade complexity of mature sherry notes. All set against a gently earthy/ peat/ sea air background. Medium bodied with the youthful peat of the Port Charlotte greeting the palate initially, followed by waves of Oloroso fruit, earth, salt, smoke and honeyed oranges. Smooth and long with malty, wood flavours on the finish. Water brings out the floral honeysuckle aromas and softens the palate emphasising its creamy spiciness and its coastal character, especially on the finish.
Bruichladdich 15 year old Second Edition Distillery Bottling 46% £39.95
Ex Bourbon cask, which has spent a further 25 weeks finishing in ex Chateau Yquem casks. Lovely maturing aromas of floral, earthy, apricot, apple, creme brulee, vanilla and a delicate toffee digestive, sweet note along with orange blossom and a touch of salinity. Off-dry on the palate with a lovely balance and complexity. Delicate with soft apricot, apple, orange spice and creamy oak, drifting into a lightly peated, smoke and coastal fruit finish, leaving a delicate sweetness and just a suggestion of the Saturnes cask. Lovely mouth feel and very long.
Glentauchers 1990 (14 year old) Duncan Taylor Bottling 46%£30.95
Clean and slightly oily aromas of tangerine, vanilla oak, oily spices and dusty orange fruit. Dry and clean on the palate opening with dusty spices and delicate fruit, then, bang, out of nowhere comes the lovely hard, crisp barley, more spices and a hint of juniper. Very long with the gin-like botanicals lasting , along with the spice!
Glenrothes 1968 (37 year old) Duncan Taylor Bottling 57.2% £85.95
Stunning, deep, mature and complex nose with a pronounced intensity of cognac-esque dried citrus fruit, apricot, orange and peach along with sumptuous spicy, cinnamon wood notes, ginger, liquid toffee, a touch of vanilla along with a slight floral top note. The aromas come rolling in waves. Mellow, medium-full bodied opening with the cognac-esque fruits, then lavender, floor polish, tangy honeyed apricot and orange, followed by bucket loads of spice, a touch of smoke, sherry spice, marmalade orange, citrus peel finally descending into a mellow cinnamon and ginger conserve, liquid honey and a touch of black pepper on the finish. Do not under any circumstances add any water to this venerable malt it really kills the intensity. Definitely one for after dinner.
Dallas Dhu 1981 (24 year old) Duncan Taylor Bottling 58.3% £75.95
Sherry Cask.
Crisp, clean and granity fresh nose. A classic Highland (Yes I know it?s a Speysider). Buckets of honied orange and sherry spice. It’s soft and succulent with liquid orange and that lovely granity bite. Dry and crisp on the palate. It opens with slightly botanical fruit followed by crisp malt, earthy honied fruit with a very intense and tangy middle. It dissolves into a superb oily orange fruit finish, with the dusty spices and granity hard note remaining. Water mellows the nose bringing out a vanilla note. On the palate it brings it all together into a rich, honied fruitiness, yet its tangy/ granity character still prevails? Superb.
Glen Keith 1967 Gordon & MacPhail Bottling 46% £65.95
Rich, sherried aromas of erarth, nuts, dried fruit, cognac and toffee with a lively spirity edge. Sweet and smooth, full of sherried fruit along with hints of earth, tobacco, and spice. A touch of salt comes through on the middle. A big, full flavoured dram with a long length.
Dalwhinnie 15 year old Distillery Bottling 40% £31.95
Clean, dry and light on the nose. A curious mix of chlorine fresh orange/ lemon fruit, heather, oak, salt and a gentle peat. Dry on the palate, sweet and sliky fruit and malt, then comes a wave of sugar and soft peat, finishing with cocoa, salt and sweet honey notes. Very nice.
Edradour 10 year old Distillery Bottling £33.95
Clean, youthful, oily nose. Quite weighty with charming heather, biscuits, toasted honey, dry sherry and citrus fruit. Medium-Sweet with honey, heather, quite viscous, and medium bodied. Very floral on the middle with a nice tangy length with the oak appearing on the finish. Good length with a long heathery after taste. A bit sweet for my tastes but lovely nevertheless.
Glenfarclas 105 (8 year old) Distillery Bottling 60% £33.95
Clean aromas of dark malt, vanilla fudge, assam tea and dried fruit all set against a background of clean sherry. Dry, medium bodied, intense, oily apricot, rich malt, coffee, dried fruit, wood tannins, assam tea leaves, integrated clean sherry and a long complex finish. Water brings out a custard cream note plus a touch of gun flint and floor polish. It softens the palate brining out the rich fruit cake flavours, still the tannins and the tea leaves remain on the finish.
Glengoyne 15 year old Scottish Oak Finish 40% £42.95
Softer, less resiny on the nose than the first bottling. I suspect that this is due to the fact that the Scottish oak casks are know re-filled. The nose is also sweeter with a huge depth of orange/ apricot fruit, earth and dunnage floors. Rounded and fruity with a touch mint/ menthol, light coffee and a hint of pine. The palate opens with waves of sweet orange/ tangerine fruit followed by wood tannins and subtle spice, a touch of mint/ menthol and an almost sherry cask sweetness. An unbelievably huge finish with the creamy Seville orange flavour lasting.
Isle of Jura Superstition 45% £29.95
A blend of old unpeated malt & young peated malt. A sot, delicately fruity, aromatic nose. Sherry, pine, salt with a young oily edge & hints of peat. On the palate it is young, yet soft, sweet & fruity with tangy caramelised orange, peat & salt. In time it opens up to display spicy honey, peat & salt, exiting with a crisp, tangy, marine ending. Young & exuberant but with lovely rounded edges.
Highland Park 12 year old 40% £29.95
Clean, pronounced & complex aromas of tar, old rope, iodine, heather, rich sherried fruits, blood oranges, a touch of peat & vegetal notes, with the creamy oak coming through later. Complex & majestic on the palate. Dry, med-body & quite viscous. The flavours are initially quite delicate but build to a complex intensity of sherried fruit, salt & heather. Very soft with a touch of charcoal/ peat on the middle. Very long with a youthful salty, smoky tinge.
Well that’s it for now. Comments and orders to the usual address.
Sincerely
Chris Goodrum
Visit Gauntleys at www.gauntley-wine.co.uk
