Malt Messenger No. 40
Dear Malt Messenger Subscribers,
I hope you had a wonderful Canada Day and Stampede. It might just be me, but it seems like the whole city is going through a little post-party-depression… It certainly doesn’t help that the weather has been unpredictable. One sunny day seems to provoke a couple with rain and that recent hail storm was intense, my truck wasn’t spared, nor was the exterior of the store. Surely there is some good news out there for those tired of the weather and feeling a little down after Stampede. You’re in luck, there is!
We’ve added a couple of short, reasonably priced beer and whisky tastings to add a little excitement to your summer evening. We’ll be putting on a Japanese Whisky tasting, a Boutique Blends tasting and an IPA (India Pale Ale) tasting with Mr. Don Tse, a well known city beer writer and judge. We’ve also got some new and returned whiskies for the drinker: Companions of the Quaich Bowmore Craftsman’s Selection; aficionado: Laphroaig 25 Year Cask Strength 2009; and the collector: Glendronach Grandeur 31 Year.
There are also some tastings notes, write-ups on other whiskies and a listing of June best sellers. I hope you enjoy this thinner Summer Edition of the Malt Messenger; I’m trying to get outside and enjoy the nice bits too!
Slainté!
Andrew Ferguson
PS-You can follow me on Twitter at www.twitter.com/scotch_guy !
IN THIS ISSUE
1. THIS JUST IN AND OUT: Ardbeg Corryvreckan
2. THIS JUST IN: English Whisky Company Chapter 6
3. THIS JUST IN: Penderyn Sherrywood
4. THIS JUST BACK: Laphroaigh 25 Year Cask Strengh 2009
5. SPECIAL BOTTLING: Companions of the Quaich Bowmore Craftsman’s Selection
6. WHISKY BEER: Ola Dubh (Black Oil) – Highland Park Cask Matured Beers
7. COLLECTOR’S PICK JUNE: Signatory Bowmore 1972
8. COLLECTOR’S PICK JULY: Glendronach Grandeur 31 Year
9. SIMPLE SUMMER TASTINGS: We’ve added a couple of beer and malt tasting to entertain you.
10. TASTING NOTE: Signatory Springbank 1969 40 Year
11. TOP 10 WHISKIES: June
THIS JUST IN AND OUT: Ardbeg Corryvreckan – $109.99 – (Temporarily Sold Out)
Ardbeg is one of Scotland’s most iconic distilleries and has a cult following as strong as any other. The Corryvreckan, like the Supernova and the Very Young before it started out as small batch bottlings which were restricted to members of the more than 50,000 strong, Ardbeg committee. The Corryvreckan bottling has caused quite a stir, and I’ve had customers asking for it for more than a year. It came somewhat as a surprise when I learned a few weeks back that a small allocation of the Corryvreckan was on its way here. 180 bottles for the whole Province, and we’ve managed to get our hands on 90 of them…
The Corryvreckan is named after the tidal whirlpool which forms between the Isles of Jura and Scarba off the western coast of the Kintyre Peninsula and east of Islay. In Scots Gaelic the Corryvreckan means the “Cauldron of the Speckled Seas”. The water way is considered very treacherous, having shipwrecked many a vessel in its strong currents. Peak tides can generate waves of more than 30 feet. Most famously George Orwell and his son were shipwrecked for a short period on a rocky islet south of the whirlpool. While rumours that the Royal Navy considers the passage un-navigable are exaggerated, it does never the less consider the gulf of Corryvreckan extremely dangerous, and recommends that only those with local knowledge and advanced skills should even attempt it.
Ardbeg chose to call their bottling Corryvreckan because its raw power and mystery mirror the “Big Untamed” spirit of Ardbeg. First launched for the Ardbeg Committee in 2008 the bottling replaces the Airigh Nam Beist and contingent on supplies is supposed to be a regularly available product. The whisky has been bottled at a strength of 57.1%, after maturing in predominantly French oak with some Bourbon casks. Jim Murray scored it 96.5pts in his 2010 Whisky Bible, saying: “I doubt if even the feared whirlpool is this deep and perplexing.” John Hansel of Malt Advocate also judged the whisky highly at 96pts; his tasting note follows courtesy of www.maltadvocate.com :
“Powerful, muscular, well-textured, and invigorating. Even within the realm of Ardbeg, this one stands out. The more aggressive notes of coal tar, damp kiln, anise, and smoked seaweed are supported by an array of fruit (black raspberry, black cherry, plum), dark chocolate, espresso, molasses, bacon fat, kalamata olive, and warming cinnamon on the finish. Quite stunning!”
Of the 90 bottles received by KWM we haven’t a one left. If you are interested in a bottle from the next shipment (which could be several months away) we will take your name and number and give you a first crack at the next batch whenever it comes in. Hopefully soon!
THIS JUST IN: English Whisky Co. Chapter 6 – $67.49
St. George’s distillery in Norfolk Norther England finally has 3 year old spirit, err whisky! St. George’s which market’s its single malt under the “English Whisky Company” label has been bottling its maturing spirit for the last couple of years. Not legally whisky as these expressions were under 3 years of age (in the oak) Chapters 3 and 4 were unpeated and peated single malt styles. This new release Chapter 6 has been matured exclusively in Bourbon casks, and has been bottled at 46% without added colouring or chillfiltering.
My tasting note: Nose: grassy, loads of steeping barley, some soft vanilla, a touch of anise and very herbaceous; Palate: clean and malty, warming, some brittle vanilla, toasted oak and oatmeal with cream and honey; Finish: clean, smooth, warming and sweet.
Chapter 6 is available in 700ml bottles for $67.49 as well as 200ml bottles for $29.99.
THIS JUST IN: Penderyn Sherry Wood – $116.99
Penderyn single malt is a whisky produced at the Penderyn distillery in Penderyn, Wales. This Welsh whisky is the first to be produced in the country since the 19th C. After centuries of whisky making the stills fell silent in Wales in 1894, but not it would seem forever. In 1998 The Welsh Whisky Company was established by four private individuals.
The distillery doesn’t mash or ferment on site. Instead they rely on a local brewer to do this for them. Brewery’s typically boil the wash to remove the lactic acid which many distilleries rely on for a second fermentation. At Penderyn the wash is pumped into a heated tank where a secondary fermentation is encouraged by adding lactic acid. This secondary fermentation creates different flavours that add complexity to the whisky. The distillery is also unique in that it has its own style of still, distinct from any in Scotland or Ireland. Penderyn’s single still does the process from wash to new make without the spirit leaving the still.
The first batch of Penderyn was released in 2004 to rave reviews. Since then they have released a peated version and most recently this sherrywood bottling. Finished in Oloroso sherry casks the whisky is still full of soft creamy vanilla but with hints of spice and dark fruits. Only 24 bottles have come into Alberta! My tasting note follows:
Nose: treacle sauce, vanilla pods, hints of agave, very grassy and some leathery-rubbery hints; Palate: soft and sweet, the vanilla hits first with some gentle spice, chocolate covered raisins, some plumy fruits and more grassy notes; Finish: clean, sweet and grassy, some vanilla and more spice.
THIS JUST BACK: Laphroaig 25 Year Cask Strength – $549.99
Laphroaig is without a doubt one of the biggest, most pleasant surprises of 2010. After more than 5 years of only being given access to the Quarter Cask (which is itself is a pleasant enough whisky) I was shocked when 25 year old, later 18 year old and then finally some 10 year old showed up. Quantities have been very tight, we still have a back-log of some 30 customers waiting for an 18 year old, and we only ever received 12 bottles of the 10 Year, but the 25 keeps coming in, albeit in small quantities.
The first 25 year old was a 2008 bottling at 40%. It was very pleasant and soft, with some leathery tobacco notes, but not sadly not cask strength and presumably chill filtered. The second shipment of 25 year old was the 2009 batch which was bottled at 51%… and it is terrific and very different from the 2008 bottling. The following is my tasting note; we currently have 6 bottles available:
Nose: very fruity, peach crumble, doughy with tropical fruit notes, some salty-briny smoke and vanilla pods.
Palate: creamy, fruity and very rich; some buttery-briny peat, with more lush tropical fruit notes, gentle smoke with sea breeze, burnt orange and traces of sherry.
Finish: darker, peatier and saltier with loads of chocolate and spicy warming oak.
SPECIAL BOTTLING – Companions of the Quaich Bowmore Craftsman’s Collection – $139.99
As some of you may know I am the president of the local (Calgary) chapter of the Companions of the Quaich a Nationwide Canadian whisky club. We’re only about 4 years old out here in Calgary, but nationally the club is celebrating its 10th Anniversary this year. To celebrate the anniversary Bowmore Distillery agreed to do a special, private labelled bottling of Bowmore for the club. They relabelled the Bowmore Craftsman’s Collection – Maltman’s Selection bottling for the club. The Craftsman’s Collection is normally only available at the distillery, where the 3000 bottles sell for about £120.
300 of the bottles were labelled for the club. For the last couple of weeks members of the Companions of the Quaich have had the opportunity to purchase the bottle for $120, 277 of the bottles have sold. As of now I have opened up the remaining 23 bottles to the general public for the price of $139.99 + GST. They will be sold on a first come, first serve basis, and limited to 2 bottles per person. Anyone who wishes to purchases a one or two year club membership (details below) will be allowed to purchase the bottles at the member’s price. Anyone who wishes to do so must contact me directly, please don’t just drop by the store.
“This unique expression of Bowmore has been carefully selected by the Maltmen of Bowmore Distillery. The maltmen hand selected five casks from the distillery vaults to produce this limited edition ‘Maltmen’s Selection”. From all the casks quietly maturing at Bowmore Distillery they have selected five sherry butts originally filled with the clear Bowmore spirit on the 13th of July 1995.
Cask numbers 1551, 1552, 1553, 1559 & 1560were selected for their individual character and married together to produce this 13 year old single malt of quite outstanding character.
Bottled straight from the casks at the natural cask strength of 54.6% alc, the final result is fabulous. A round luscious example of Bowmore with incredibly rich fruits and smoked oak chips.”
The Calgary Chapter of the Companions of the Quaich is a group of like minded fans of the malt, who meet six to eight times a year for dinners, tastings and other whisky events. Our last event was our annual Stampede BBQ built around the theme, Springbank in Springbank. Members of the club save 5% on single malts at the Kensington Wine Market, and $10 – $20 on club events compared to the fee for guests. If you would like more information on the club please e-mail me to that effect at: scotchguy@kensingtonwinemarket.com..
WHISKY BEER: Ola Dubh (Black Oil) – Highland Park Cask Matured Beers
On my last trip to the Orkneys, about a year ago I came across this incredibly dark rich beer that had only recently been launched. Called Ola Dubh, or Black Oil in Scots Gaelic, the beer was a collaboration between Harviestoun Brewery and the Highland Park Distillery. Harviestoun is famous for their Old Engine Oil beer, an Old Ale style beer that is a tribute to the classic Imperial Porters and Stouts of the 19th Century. Black and thick in appearance the beer is dominated by notes of chocolate and bitter hops.
After sampling another beer matured in ex whisky barrels an idea was hatched to age the Old Engine Oil (so named because of its resemblance to the dirty oil drained from an engine) in ex-whisky barrels whose provenance could be tracked. They started with barrels formerly used to mature 12, 16 and 30 year old Highland Park single malt whisky and have since added 18 and 40 year cask versions to the line-up.
A small quantity of the Old Engine Oil, Ola Dubh 12 Year and Ola Dubh 18 Year have come into the market. All beers are very well reviewed and of exceptional character. These are beers for the whisky lover and anyone who’s fond of porter, stouts, barleywines and other big beers.
1. Harviestoun Old Engine Oil – Smooth with lots of chocolate and bitter hops. 8% ABV. 97th percentile Ratebeer.com..
2. Harviestoun Ola Dubh 12 – Old Engine Oil Matured in ex-Highland Park 12Yr casks. Soft and creamy with lots of roasted malt flavours. 8% ABV. 99th percentile Ratebeer.com.
3. Harviestoun Ola Dubh 18 – Old Engine Oil Matured in ex-Highland Park 18Yr casks. Sweet and chocolaty with notes of tobacco and maple. 8% ABV. 99th percentile Ratebeer.com.
COLLECTOR’S PICK FOR JUNE: Signatory Bowmore 1972 36Yr – $634.99
This 1972 vintage bottling of Signatory was one of the highlights of my trip to Scotland in the spring of 2009. Filled into a single sherry butt, cask number 3890, on the 21st of June 1972 the whisky was matured 36 years before being bottled on the 29th of July 2008. The cask produced a surprisingly large number of bottles, 540, for a whisky of this age. It has been bottled at a cask strength of 45.4% without colouring or chillfiltering. The whisky comes in Signatory’s elegant decanter style bottle, and is presented is a stunning lacquered rosewood box. It is exclusive to the Kensington Wine Market, and is available in very limited quantities.
What’s remarkable about this whisky is it similarity to a couple of other legendary Bowmores, the 1971 34 year old and the 1964 41 year old Black Bowmore. My first thought when tasting it at the distillery was that it was a little like a poor man’s Black Bowmore. The Black Bowmore 1964 still ranks among the top 5 whiskies I’ve ever tasted, and is easily in the number 1 or 2 spot. Its sherry notes, gentle earthy peat and chewy mouth-feel are but an added bonus when one takes into account the whisky’s lush tropical fruit notes. This Bowmore isn’t the Black, but at a little more than one seventh the price it’s a hell of a buy…
My Tasting Note:
Nose: marmalade, chewy toffee, chocolate-walnut fudge, smoky raisins and burnt dark fruits and soft dry peat; Palate: rich, sweet and chewy, more burnt fruits, milk chocolate and dry heathery peat; there is some tropical fruit here but its drier and not as moist as that with the Black; Finish, drying, sweet, fruity milk chocolate and some clean salty smoke.
COLLECTOR’S PICK FOR JULY: The Glendronach Grandeur 31 Year – $576.99
A year after taking over The Glendronach Distillery, the new owners, BenRiach Distillery Company have released a special bottling, The Glendronach Grandeur 31 Year. Glendronach has always had a big-smooth-sherried style, and the Grandeur has been bottled in keeping with this tradition. The expression is 31 years of age, has been bottled at a natural cask strength of 45.8% and there are but 1013 bottles with just a few of those available in Alberta.
The whisky comes beautifully packaged in stout antique-looking hand numbered bottles. The bottles are wax sealed and presented in a handsome walnut presentation case. Also in the case you’ll find a certificate and a couple historic photos of the distillery. The presentation, age and quality of this whisky makes it a very interesting prospect indeed.
KWM has committed to just 6 and one has already sold!
Distillery’s Tasting Notes:
Nose – A tremendous concentration of fruits, nuts and berries enveloped in a coffee and mocha glaze. Subtle sweet sherry notes interact beautifully with sticky date pudding aromas.
Palate – Very big and gusty flavours adorn each mouthful, yet with perfect balance and refinement. Initial spiced orange flavours and rich old Oloroso sherry are met mid-palate with roasted almonds, coffee and treacle. The dry concentrated flavours from the almonds and the oloroso sherry are balanced in perfect harmony with sultanas, chocolate and honey.
Conclusions – This is a rewarding, memorable and captivating GlenDronach expression for a very special occasion.
MINI SERIES TASTINGS:
Sometimes you need a break from the sun, and in the case of this summer the rain. So we’ve added a couple of tastings to help you lubricate your summer, and give you something indoors to look forward to. The tastings are all 1 hour, and will cost you just $25.
1. Mini Series Japanese Whisky Tastings – Thursday August 5th 7PM – You’ll sample 5 whiskies from Japan, including whiskies from Suntory, Miyagiky and Hokaido distilleries. – $25
2. Mini Series Tasting IPA the Summer Beer – Thursday August 12th 7PM – What is India Pale Ale? Why is Keith’s a bad example? And just how refreshing can a beer truly be? Answers to these and other questions will be provided… – $25
3. Mini Series Tasting Boutique Blends – Friday August 13th 7PM – There is nothing scary about this tasting, just some fine examples of what blended whisky can be when made with the same care and attention to details found in the best single malts. – $25
· You can register for these and all other tastings online at www.kensingtonwinemarket.com..
Tasting Note: Signatory Springbank 1969 40 Year – $1267.99
As promised in the last Malt Messenger, here are my thoughts on the 40 year old Signatory Springbank.
Nose: wood workers shop, fresh cream with a drop of honey, poached peach and pear, stormy sea breeze carrying the soft smoke of a distant peat fire, vanilla extract, liniment oil and toasted oak; Palate: immediately rich, spicy, complex and multilayered with waves of different notes rolling across the palate; lively spices introduce your palate to the whisky with traces of clove, cardamom and cinnamon; next up some caramelized white fruits, peaches and cream, caramelized pear, dried fig with Shropshire blue, some liquorice root, highland toffee and dark chocolate with caramel and sea salt; Finish: warming and sweet with some melted brown sugar and more sweet-spicy fruit.
This is no cheap bottle, but for a 40 year old Springbank it is a steal… it has an enormously complex, multilayered palate, and a finish that is to die for. It is everything you want in a very old whisky, fresh, lively and full of depth without tasting tired, bitter or overly oaky. The whisky is all the more remarkable when you consider how little old Springbank casks are actually out there. The oldest whisky the distillery has bottled in years is but 18 years old.
This whisky is exclusive to the Kensington Wine Market. We received but four bottles a couple of months ago and they all sold. I have another 6 on order for this fall and am taking pre-orders; 2 of these are already spoken for.
TOP 10 WHISKIES: June
1. Companions of the Quaich Bowmore Craftsman’s Collection – Sold almost exclusively to members of the club, this bottling of Bowmore, normally only available at the distillery is a steal for $139.99 ($120 if you’re a member).
2. Kilchoman Spring 2010 Release – Only a few bottles left of the third release from Islay’s youngest distillery. – $89.99
3. Bowmore Tempest Cask Strength 10 Year – Our best selling whisky over the last 6 months by a longshot; creamy and buttery with soft fruits and gentle peat and clean smoke. – $81.99
4. Springbank 1996 KWM Oloroso Cask – Our 2nd exceptional cask of Springbank is from a single Oloroso butt, and it is rich, spicy and dark with a touch of salty smoke. – $109.99
5. Ardbeg Corryvreckan – Come and gone I’m afraid, see above, though we are taking preorders for the next shipment due in 3-6 months. – $109.99
6. Laphroaig Quarter Cask – Finished in casks ¼ the regular size, this young medicinal dram tastes more mature than its 7 years of age. – $50.99
7. Glen Garioch 21 Year – Discontinued and sadly gone forever, this 21 year old Glen Garioch was a bargain while it lasted. – $114.99
8. Duthies Clynelish 14 Year – One of our most popular exclusives, the waxy honey notes of Clynelish dovetail into the gentle sweet spicy notes of the sherry cask. – $91.99
9. Edradour Cask Strength Decanter – A big sherry bomb of an Edradour in a handsome decanter bottle; exlcusive to Kensington Wine Market. – $127.99
10. Edradour Caledonia – A sweet, spicy and soft Edradour with the flavours of big sherry, but the softness of silk. Exclusive to Kensington Wine Market. – $93.99
If you have any whisky questions or comments concerning The Malt Messenger please contact me by e-mail, phone, or drop by the store. Feel free to forward me any whisky news you feel should be included in a future issue of The Malt Messenger; it might just get included.
All of the products mentioned in THE MALT MESSENGER can be purchased in store, over the phone or from our website at www.kensingtonwinemarket.com.. All prices quoted in the Malt Messenger are subject to change!
Thanks for reading the Malt Messenger!
Slainte!
Andrew Ferguson
KWM Scotchguy
403-283-8000
888-283-9004
1257 Kensington Rd. NW
Calgary, AB, Canada
T2N 3P8
scotchguy@kensingtonwinemarket.com
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