The U.S. deserves revived single malt Glenglassaugh

story by Ian Buxton*

Long-time distiller Stuart Nickerson is a frustrated man. After a  distinguished career (Glenrothes, Highland Park, Glenfiddich) he’s just spent around $2 million re-opening long-lost Highland single malt Glenglassaugh. First opened in 1875, Glenglassaugh has had a checkered history but looks set fair under new ownership.

And its two top whiskies, long slumbering in the seaside warehouses but bottled in 2009, have just collected the blue ribbon trophies for 30 and 40 year old Scotch from the International Wine & Spirit Competition. Scotland’s First Minister Alex Salmond turned out to restart the distillery, and former Glenmorangie manager Graham Eunson has been hired to take on day-to-day operations. Seems rosy, doesn’t it?

So what’s bugging Nickerson? Getting U.S. distribution, that’s what. First problem is the convoluted three-tier system that sometimes ties small companies up in ribbon, when they’re not dealing with labelling requirements and introducing a (for them) non-standard 75 cl. bottle. Then Glenglassaugh has had to cope with the economic climate.

“It’s no different for anyone else,” admits Nickerson “except that we had to try to find new partners for an unknown super-premium single malt just as everyone was drawing back and cutting inventory. We know the quality of what we’ve got and can prove it; we just need the chance.”

He’s not alone in his enthusiasm. To take one example, Brett Pontoni, Speciality Spirits Buyer for Chicago’s Binny’s Beverage Depot told me, “This is a gem of a distillery. Inquiries I receive from consumers and collectors tell me I’m not the only person welcoming Glenglassaugh back.”

Stuart Nickerson (left) receiving the International
Wine and Spirits Competition trophy for best
40 Year Old Scotch Whisky from Sir Ian Good

Back in Scotland’s speciality liquor stores the 21 Year Old version retails at around $235, including tax ,and the range runs up to a swanky 40 Year Old (the big trophy winner) at close to $2,500 for a 70 cl. crystal decanter. So it’s not an everyday dram; but, asks Stuart Nickerson, “Doesn’t America deserve the best?”

*article provided by Stuart Nickerson