Whisky Intelligence has reproduced (with permission) The Gauntleys Whisky Newsletter for July 2007; a look back in time. The author, Chris Goodrum, has some excellent insights into the whiskies being commented on which makes for excellent reading on a Sunday. Enjoy!
Dear Whisky Customers
It’s a funny thing life isn’t it? You hand out some praise and generally speaking you never hear anything, but as soon as you criticize, well that’s a different matter! Ok so I’ve had a bit of a dig at the whisky magazine in the last couple of newsletters (good naturedly!) and this finally elicited a response from Rob Allanson the editor, who from the tone of his voice initially wasn’t exactly happy, but we spoke at length about what I was hoping to achieve and whisky things in general and by the end of the conversation I think he was happier, although I’m certain he’ll tell me if he wasn’t! He also pointed out that they only have a couple of competitions a year. To me it just seems like more!
I have been wondering if maybe I am too outspoken (answers on a postcard please!). I mean as far as whisky goes I’ll happily call a spade a spade. I have no sponsors, advertisers or any other shackles to contend with and I would like to say that I always try to see the good points in every sample that I taste although sometimes samples have no redeeming characteristics whatsoever. So the way I see it is that I am just being honest and chances are if I think its rubbish then so are you the customers and there is no way I could recommend a whisky to a customer that I didn?t believe was a good expression. Another point I’d like to make is that if you don’t receive criticism, as long as it is constructive then there is no incentive to up your game so to speak. Oh and before you ask, yes I have received critical emails! And the occasional nice one too!
Right there is quiet a bit to get through so pay attention at the back, as I’ll be asking questions later! (only joking!)
NEW BOTTLINGS FROM BLADNOCH
Raymond and the team at Bladnoch have been busy of late and kindly sent me some samples of not one but four new distillery bottlings. These included a 14 year old bottled at 40%, a 16 year old bottled at 55%, a 16 year old finished for two years in ex-rum casks which I was especially looking forward to trying as the previous bottling was superb (although Jim Murray disagreed!) and finally a 15 year old bottled at 46% matured in sherry casks.
I was to honest a bit disappointed by the 40% bottling, it seemed a lot younger on the nose and quiet spirity and high toned. It showed more maturity on the palate but was quiet short. The other bottlings were superb and up to Raymond?s usual high standard. Tasting notes below.
Bladnoch 16 year old Rum Finish 46% £42.95
Quiet a big and expansive nose, classic Bladnoch aromas mingle with buttered rum toffees, dried fruits and lazy sweet spices. It’s a bit schizophrenic, swirl it around the glass and one minute it’s all grassy citrus-ness and the next time it’s all buttered toffee. It’s quiet mad really and I love it! On the palate the entry is soft and sweet with the buttered rum toffee flavours predominating, yet slowly the distillery character seeps through. It has a lovely mouth feel with oodles of tangy, spicy, citrus, apricot and a touch of tropical fruit. Wow this really wakes up the palate; it certainly tasted higher than 46% (the last bottling was bottled at 57.4%). A drop of water doesn’t diminish its Jekyl and Hide character on the nose yet on the palate it rounds it out; the distillery character is now more prevalent although it retains its sweetness nicely. Now the finish is playing a supporting role like it should do. It is very grassy with a floral note and the gorgeous spice drifts in effortlessly on the finish. Absolutely yummy!
Bladnoch 16 year old 55% £46.95
One word. Wow! Great nose! (Ok that?s three!) Deep, heavy and lusciously oily with loads of apricot, orange, grass, earth, citrus and vanilla. Extremely harmonious and stunning. Definitely Bladnoch at it’s best. The palate like the nose is deep, rich and pretty much mirrors the nose. The finish is stunning with a wonderful sweetness. A drop of water emphasizes the grass and sweet spice notes along with fern and bracken (?). On the palate it certainly has the wow factor, emphasisng the sweetness, and like the nose bringing out the fauna and spice (cinnamon). Now it has a real spicy kick to it and the finish lasts for ages!
Bladnoch 15 year old Sherry Cask 46% £41.95
A very intense nose. Very soft and polished. As to be expected there is a huge amount of sherry character, redolent of luscious, melting orange fruits, a touch of smoke and malt. Then in wades the butterscotch and natural caramel. Underneath all this lurks the grassy/ earthy citrus aromas and a faint whiff of gun powder, which I don’t think spoils the enjoyment. The palate is luxurious, soft, smooth and loaded with butterscotch and natural caramel, coating the palate in lovely malty fruit. Very, very intense and powerful, the citrus fruit pokes it head up in the finish. Lovely tangy finish with loads of earth and sweet spice and a big buttery finale. Definitely one to savour with desert!
A CUTE LOWLAND FROM MURRAY McDAVID
Not exactly a brand spanking new bottling from these guys, but as they sent me a sample I thought why not!
Murray McDavid Littlemill 1991 (16 year old) 46% £36.95
Bourbon Cask
Sometimes there is a lot to be said for taking a good whisky and just leaving it to mature in good quality Bourbon oak casks and this is definitely one of those instances. It is crisp and clean on the nose, very grassy with straw, apricot, toffee, earth and banana aromas. Slightly oily and delicate but with a lovely depth to it. On the palate it is quiet oily with apricot, toffee and vanilla which opens into quiet a creamy middle with a slight nuttiness. Lovely length with the grassy character lasting right through to the finish where it signs off with a flourish of soft spice.
RETURN OF THE PRODIGAL DUNCAN!
It’s been awhile since any of the Duncan Taylor bottlings have put in an appearance on the newsletter which has been a shame as they have amazing stocks of wonderfully mature whiskies. Like most independent bottling companies they have had their off moments (can’t give you too much praise guys!) but by and large the quality of their single cask bottlings has been superb. So as the outstanding issues we had have all been resolved I would just like to say ? Welcome back!?
Pittyvaich 1979 (28 year old) 51.4% £69.95
Cask 5639
Deeper and a lot more oilier than the sample of cask 5638. It has oodles of honied orange fruit, a touch of grass and a better balance of vanilla. Delightfully awesome with hints of soft, ground, sweet spices. A quiet oily entry. Soft, smooth with gloriously honied fruits and a winey sauvignon blanc-esque middle. Clean, hard and mineral finish with the sauvignon character persistent along with a touch of botanicals. A drop of water really doesn’t bring any further revelation so I would drink it neat.
Glen Grant 1970 (37 year old) 49.7% £86.95
Cask 3490
Wow, definitely a first fill sherry butt! Rich and intense with some serious malty/ coffee drama going on, but the sherry takes the high ground. Oh god this is luxurious. A superb cask. Slightly floral and nutty notes emerge. An almost orgasmic experience, endlessly deep. Not an off note or a sulphur blemish in sight! The palate is dry, full of sherry fruit (surprise!). Intense, oodles of coffee, spice and wood tannins along with orange fruit. Superbly clean and intense with rich, malty dried fruit. A big wow! A drop of water brings out a very slight vegetal note on the nose and reminds me of a spicy madeira sponge cake soaked in coffee and sherry. On the palate it softens and rounds it out. This is so good, mature, mellow with a wonderful balance. Nuff said I think!
Glen Mhor 1975 (32 year old) 42.6% £75.95
Cask 4031
Very clean and rich. Full of sherried orange fruit, dried, dusty spices and coffee. Luxurious and mature with malty fruit notes. You can quiet happily loose yourself in this nose for hours! Soft and quiet oily on the palate, mature, restrained, clean, focused earthy, mature sherry fruit along with coffee/ chocolate, and old leather armchairs. Lovely balance and very mouth filling with grilled nuts notes in the finish. No need for water this is just perfect.
Inverleven 1979 (28 year old) 53.7 £77.95
Cask 5662
Initially the nose is quiet spirity but once it settles down it displays a lovely depth of orange fruit along with malt and grassy notes. Quiet full for a Lowland with a touch of buttery vanilla, banana and toffee. Soft and creamy on the palate with vanilla, cherries, citrus grass (especially on the middle) yet the alcohol dominates the palate. Lovely garden fresh (peas?) finish. A drop of water softens the nose emphasizing the grass and crisp fruit. On the palate it brings out a lovely sweetness. It has become very full bodied and displays a superb dry, spicy finish. Is this really 28 years old it tastes more like mid teens. Who said Lowlands can’t age? This is an exceptional cask.
Banff 1975 (31 year old) 42.2% £95.95
Cask 3416
Who this is a serious fight in a florists! Loads of violet, lavender, vanilla oak, salt, orange fruits and distant smoke. Absolutely amazing! I don’t think I’ve ever smelt anything quiet like it. The palate is clean, soft and linear with earthy orange fruit, barley, malt, spice, lavender and just a fleeting touch of vanilla. Finishes with a veritable riot of botanicals! The palate is maybe not as amazing as the nose but as the distillery closed in 1983 you are drinking a priceless bit of heritage!
Glenrothes 1969 (38 year old) 40.7% £88.95
Cask 381
Mature aromas of old polish, rich, luxurious, spiced orange cake soaked in mature honey. Another nose to loose yourself in! Incredibly complex with candied citrus peel, a touch of smoke, glorious gentle spice and mature wood notes. I don’t think there is any other word to describe it other than graceful! It takes awhile to get going on the palate then the flavour flood out. Mature honey, wax, vanilla, orange fruit cake, and soft cinnamon spice. Quiet a floral middle which descends into a rich plumy, spiced dried fruit cake morass with mature malt extract and a touch of coffee and bitter chocolate. Lovely mouth feel with the floral notes returning on the after taste. A lovely, mature Bourbon cask, the finish is absolutely endless
AH HA! YOU THOUGHT I’D FORGOTTEN SPRINGBANK
Stuart Robertson and Frank McHardy have decided to release a vintage dated Springbank, bottled at its cask strength. The first batch of the 1997 matured in re-charred Sherry Butts for 10 years will be released shortly. Each batch will be numbered (with a neck label) so you know that Batch No1 will become an instant collector’s item as there are only 11,000 bottles available for the world. The normal retail price will be £42.95, but being an incredibly generous person if you place an order now you can have it for £40.95. Now we have taken delivery of 12 bottles and as I have my name on one bottle, so that leaves 11 bottles remaining, so it will be first come first served with a maximum of 2 bottles per person (just so everyone gets a chance).
Springbank 1997 (10 year old) 55.2% £42.95
Crisp and aromatic aromas of creamy/ oily vanilla, smoky peat, orange, apricot, and toasty oats. Quiet coastal (as expected) and incredibly complex with hints of coffee, walnuts and earth. On the palate Batch 1 is rich, crisp yet oily. Tangy orange and apricot conserve mingle with sweet oak, a touch of peat and a mere suggestion of sherry. Very expressive, lovely balance and mouth filling. A drop of water brings out the gorgeous earthy fruit on the nose along with its inherent oiliness. This is loads better than the standard 10 year old! On the palate it brings it all together emphasizing the delicate earthy-peat. In a way it kind of reminds me of Longrow. It finishes with a medicinal menthol note. This is very, very good!
Phew, well that was an action packed newsletter. So if you have any comments or would like to place an order, please contact me in the usual way!
Sincerely
Chris Goodrum
http://www.gauntley-wine.co.uk/
